Emisar D4 Mods

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CRX
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Emisar D4 Mods

Received this wee fella today, love it! Nichia 219C flavour.
There is not much to modify on this light but I thought it needed a magnetic tail & tritium vial, lined the battery tubes for better fit, also a GITD recessed switch & bezel, carbon fibre wrap on the tail and some o-rings in the body grooves for grip.

USB rechargeable

After some measurements I decided it was workable although I had to destroy the PCB in the process as it is glued in place but that doesn’t matter now Wink
I did try heating the tailcap and pulling on the spring but that snapped off at the solder joint so I chose to drill some holes in it until it yielded. I could have applied more heat but didn’t want to risk altering the colour.
One good thing about installing the copper plate is that I was able to adjust where the tailcap lettering aligns, if that sort of thing bothers you Big Smile
This also allows me to know at a glance whether the light is locked out or not.

Some measurements:

Spring compressed & PCB combined – 2.2mm
PCB alone – 1.07mm
Internal tail diameter – 22.24mm
Endcap thickness – 2.54mm

I had originally hoped to just fit a 22mm magnet in there with a thin copper plate but a 22mm x 2mm magnet is too thick, all I had, so used instead an N52 18mm Neodymium magnet with a pressed copper disc and some 1mm copper wire as I did not want to shorten the tubes either.
A 22mm x 1mm N52 magnet might do but seem very hard to find.

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GITD stock switch cover

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Recessed GITD Switch & GITD Optics

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PK Paladin Clip

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Meteor & D4 Recessed Switches

Metal switch covers

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I decided to have a go at making the light USB rechargeable.
The cell cannot be easily removed from this tube now but that is ok with me, still got the 18350 tube.

First I removed about half of the 18650 tube internal ano with oven cleaner, made a stopper from blutak and cut off the tail threads

Next I made a copper base for the 18350 cell from an old DTP XHP70 board and soldered a wire on to go to the charger board, press fitted in place and gave it a quick test Thumbs Up

Then onto the charger unit. A TP4056 was too long so I cut it down to size and soldered on the micro USB port and epoxied in place

Next up was the locator LED and charger light carrier made from acrylic tube and a red LED with UV glue.
The LED has a 12kΩ resistor in line for about 0.16mA parasitic drain.
The red charging light is brighter than the locator when connected and turns green when done

I made a sturdy copper strip to carry the charger board positive and covered with six layers of kapton tape and soldered onto the charger, put in place and epoxied.

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USB rechargeable Emisar D4 with red locator light

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Lighted switch version

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Some runtime measurements at different temp settings

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D4 Cheatsheet

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Feel free to post your own D4 mods here too Thumbs Up

Edited by: CRX on 11/04/2017 - 15:22
Slayer1
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Sweet!!!

Sledgestone
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You sure don’t waste any time CRX! Thumbs Up

ven
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WOW, no flies on you Steve…………..looks fantastic and even more useful with a touch of your magic.

CRX
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Thanks Beer

lumenzilla
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Awesome hacks Thumbs Up

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Agro
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Making the contact springless should slightly reduce resistance making the light another bit brighter, right?
Anyway, the mod is much harder than I expected.

CRX
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Agro wrote:
Making the contact springless should slightly reduce resistance making the light another bit brighter, right?

Maybe marginally. I had a closer look at the PCB copper, it is about 0.2mm thick Thumbs Up
Coupled with the HQ spring when compressed is very low resistance although not as clean as my 0.3mm one piece copper.
What did bother me was how easily the spring detached, almost like a cold solder joint.

Agro wrote:
Anyway, the mod is much harder than I expected.

Possibly not, I like to do things the hard way Big Smile , the most difficult part was getting that contact out, left sitting in boiling water for a while would probably do it but I got no patience, then if you find a 22mm x 1mm magnet, the highest strength possible due to the thick tailcap aluminium and some 0.2mm copper sheet you wouldn’t have to press it into shape or bother with the support copper wire ring.
Also note the magnet won’t hold the 18650 version horizontal, only works with the 18350 due to the 2.54mm aluminium in between.
Another way is to file down the battery tube about 1mm and install a strong 22mm x 2mm magnet with a thin copper disc on top but filing the tube is a bit dodgy.

DB Custom
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I took the liberty to lighten the pic up some so your work could be seen, now that I can see the carbon fiber end plate and all it’s easy to see how much you’ve brought out the D4. Nice work!

Dale

CRX
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Thanks mate, I guess most of my pictures look too dark to everyone else then? I’ll lighten them up some in future Thumbs Up

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Love it!

You just gave me an idea. I hated my Acebeam X80 tailcap with all the unnecessary branding. I’m going to cover it up like you did with this light.

CRX
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Cool Thumbs Up

Gunga
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How did you do the trit like that?!

CRX
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I first thought about a slot which would have been better but more risky to do so I just drilled a 6mm hole right in the centre of the D4 letters for the 6mm x 1.5mm trit, backed by a 6mm x 0.5mm magnet.
After the hole was drilled & cleaned I put the 18mm magnet in the tail, stuffed blutak in to hold in place, put the 0.5mm magnet in the hole followed by the trit then filled with layers of UV glue. I do deeper sets like this in layers because the glue shrinks a bit when hardening with UV light.

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Bravo

(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)

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Double bravo!!

Agro
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CRX, I’m looking for ways to hang my D4 in a tent.
Slightly loose o-ring seems to be the best option so far. What size did you use and how tight was it?

CRX
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Another reason I like to install magnets in my lights and other stuff is because I have a couple large neos stitched into pieces of fabric to the top tent pole sleeve underside of my tent so you can just stick stuff there like lights, small USB fan, radio etc.
I also have a line of paracord running along there too for stuff with clips, but anyway the o-rings I used for a tight fit are about 18-20mm x 1mm, nitrile or other firmer material is best as silicone is too soft and will pull out of place easily but for your needs maybe a soft 22-24mm id x 2 or 3mm would do or make a thin piano wire type clip. Don’t be hanging the D4 in a tent on full power though… Wink

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Excellent mod sir! I love the o-rings in the body grooves for grip. I’m buying a bunch a o-rings today for my light grooves in all my lights. I bought this light and have really enjoyed showing it off to my buddies. They can’t be.ieve something so small can be so blazingly bright. Some are planning on buying their own. Thanks for the great info and ideas. Thumbs Up

Best regards,

Matthew

 

 

 

 

 

Agro
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CRX wrote:
Another reason I like to install magnets in my lights and other stuff is because I have a couple large neos stitched into pieces of fabric to the top tent pole sleeve underside of my tent so you can just stick stuff there like lights, small USB fan, radio etc.
I also have a line of paracord running along there too for stuff with clips, but anyway the o-rings I used for a tight fit are about 18-20mm x 1mm, nitrile or other firmer material is best as silicone is too soft and will pull out of place easily but for your needs maybe a soft 22-24mm id x 2 or 3mm would do or make a thin piano wire type clip. Don’t be hanging the D4 in a tent on full power though… Wink

Could hurt the eyes; other than that, TK will come and restrict the output to some stable level.
Thx for suggestions.
Joey Adams
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Oh man that looks awesome. I completely missed the carbon fiber on the bottom until Dale voodoo’d the picture. That is one awesome looking light. I wonder if the magnet would be able to hold the 18500 version horizontal?

CRX
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I think you would need a 22mm x 2mm magnet in there for the extra weight Thumbs Up

allcool
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How did you do the “GITD material around the switch”.? it looks perfect, as does all your mods, very nice…

CRX
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It took a few attempts to get the right size and was tricky to do but it is just a thin strip of sticky GITD tape cut with a scalpel and pressed into the gap between the rubber switch boot and steel bezel, so it’s just the top part showing.

allcool
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CRX wrote:
It took a few attempts to get the right size and was tricky to do but it is just a thin strip of sticky GITD tape cut with a scalpel and pressed into the gap between the rubber switch boot and steel bezel, so it’s just the top part showing.

Well, we’ll give it a go, thanks for explaining. Green GITD material around the switch should look good on my d4 black and grey, but not sure on the green d4. What do you think ?
CRX
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I think the green looks good

allcool
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Yes the green looks good. Thanks for the pics.

How did you get a smooth tube shorty..? My shorty looks like the one on the far left pic. I must have missed those other options…

CRX
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I just stole that pic from the net Big Smile , I think it’s just a mock up

DB Custom
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Does the switch ring thread in or is it press fit? I didn’t remove it when I took mine apart and replaced the FET….

Dale

CRX
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I didn’t take mine out, but it’s press fitted

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@CRX sorry for the noob question, but what recessed switch did you use as it look almost completely flat with the “wide” portion for the GITD film. Also you mentioned the bezel when titling the photos. Did you re-use stock bezel or replace? Will be taking delivery of my D4 tomorrow and have a few items that are on the list for mods, the recessed switch being one of them. Thanks.

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