Emisar D4 Mods

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CRX
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Emisar D4 Mods

Received this wee fella today, love it! Nichia 219C flavour.
There is not much to modify on this light but I thought it needed a magnetic tail & tritium vial, lined the battery tubes for better fit, also some GITD material around the switch, carbon fibre wrap on the tail and some o-rings in the body grooves for grip.

After some measurements I decided it was workable although I had to destroy the PCB in the process as it is glued in place but that doesn’t matter now Wink
I did try heating the tailcap and pulling on the spring but that snapped off at the solder joint so I chose to drill some holes in it until it yielded. I could have applied more heat but didn’t want to risk altering the colour.
One good thing about installing the copper plate is that I was able to adjust where the tailcap lettering aligns, if that sort of thing bothers you Big Smile
This also allows me to know at a glance whether the light is locked out or not.

Some measurements:

Spring compressed & PCB combined – 2.2mm
PCB alone – 1.07mm
Internal tail diameter – 22.24mm
Endcap thickness – 2.54mm

I had originally hoped to just fit a 22mm magnet in there with a thin copper plate but a 22mm x 2mm magnet is too thick, all I had, so used instead an N52 18mm Neodymium magnet with a pressed copper disc and some 1mm copper wire as I did not want to shorten the tubes either.
A 22mm x 1mm N52 magnet might do but seem very hard to find.

See TK’s very informative thread for more details about this light

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Some runtime measurements at different temp settings

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D4 Cheatsheet

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Edited by: CRX on 08/11/2017 - 15:13
Slayer1
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Sweet!!!

Modded Shadow JM30. Sigma Custom Brass 18650 219C with the works. Sinner's Copper 18650 219B. Imalent DN70. Olight S1. Reylight Pineapple 219CT 4K R9050, Convoy L2/L6/C8/M1/S2. Maglite XL100. Surefire 6P/9P, Emisar D4 219C 83CRI 5000K, Barbolight V-04 NKD.

Sledgestone
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You sure don’t waste any time CRX! Thumbs Up

ven
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WOW, no flies on you Steve…………..looks fantastic and even more useful with a touch of your magic.

CRX
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Thanks Beer

lumenzilla
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Awesome hacks Thumbs Up

www.lumenzilla.com

Agro
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Making the contact springless should slightly reduce resistance making the light another bit brighter, right?
Anyway, the mod is much harder than I expected.

CRX
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Agro wrote:
Making the contact springless should slightly reduce resistance making the light another bit brighter, right?

Maybe marginally. I had a closer look at the PCB copper, it is about 0.2mm thick Thumbs Up
Coupled with the HQ spring when compressed is very low resistance although not as clean as my 0.3mm one piece copper.
What did bother me was how easily the spring detached, almost like a cold solder joint.

Agro wrote:
Anyway, the mod is much harder than I expected.

Possibly not, I like to do things the hard way Big Smile , the most difficult part was getting that contact out, left sitting in boiling water for a while would probably do it but I got no patience, then if you find a 22mm x 1mm magnet, the highest strength possible due to the thick tailcap aluminium and some 0.2mm copper sheet you wouldn’t have to press it into shape or bother with the support copper wire ring.
Also note the magnet won’t hold the 18650 version horizontal, only works with the 18350 due to the 2.54mm aluminium in between.
Another way is to file down the battery tube about 1mm and install a strong 22mm x 2mm magnet with a thin copper disc on top but filing the tube is a bit dodgy.

DB Custom
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I took the liberty to lighten the pic up some so your work could be seen, now that I can see the carbon fiber end plate and all it’s easy to see how much you’ve brought out the D4. Nice work!

Dale

CRX
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Thanks mate, I guess most of my pictures look too dark to everyone else then? I’ll lighten them up some in future Thumbs Up

Edness
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Love it!

You just gave me an idea. I hated my Acebeam X80 tailcap with all the unnecessary branding. I’m going to cover it up like you did with this light.

CRX
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Cool Thumbs Up

Gunga
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How did you do the trit like that?!

CRX
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I first thought about a slot which would have been better but more risky to do so I just drilled a 6mm hole right in the centre of the D4 letters for the 6mm x 1.5mm trit, backed by a 6mm x 0.5mm magnet.
After the hole was drilled & cleaned I put the 18mm magnet in the tail, stuffed blutak in to hold in place, put the 0.5mm magnet in the hole followed by the trit then filled with layers of UV glue. I do deeper sets like this in layers because the glue shrinks a bit when hardening with UV light.

Ronin42
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Bravo

(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)

leroycp
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Double bravo!!