Emisar D4 Mods

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Tettnang
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Finished Light... for now..

There is some great work on this thread. Thanks to all of you for posting. This has motivated me to make some mods to my light.

Magnetic Tail - I was able to source my magnet for the tail from K&J Magnetics. This magnet is being used in place of the spring and pcb so it contacts the body. The best size and strength for this in my 18350 body light was 7/8 x 1/16 or 22.2mm x 1.5mm. To remove the tail pcb I used my soldering rework heat gun. I found 350F to be the sweet spot and the board popped right out with the glue staying on the board. Quick cleanup of any remaining residue and I super glued the magnet in. I did have to file the body of the light a bit to fit to the new magnet. This was the most time consuming because I didn't want to overshoot and cause a poor contact between the body and the magnet. 

Deep Carry Clip - This was more about finding the right one. I used a clip from the Nitecore Store from their parts page. This one is: "Version B for MH10, MH12, MH20, etc." The only thing left to do was thin the arms of the clip to fit the grooves on the light.  

It Works!Tailcap with new magnet installedFiled bodyLeft a bit of room between the body and the tail.

 

 Next mods - Researching the ME4056 board to see about an integrated USB charging solution. Thin the arms of the clip some more for a better fit. 

 

 

 

CRX
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Nice Thumbs Up

-X3-
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So I managed to put 3/4 of a Lexel Aux LEDs board in my D4 during NYE.
I guess the beer/red wine/rhum combo costed me the las 1/4 of it but anyway it works Smile

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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Smile
chadvone
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I like it X3. What driver are you using? I have a Lexel driver with Narsil setting here. Not sure were to put it.

Edit. I need to work on a switch mod that keeps this from coming on in my pocket.

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chadvone wrote:
I like it X3. What driver are you using? I have a Lexel driver with Narsil setting here. Not sure were to put it.

Edit. I need to work on a switch mod that keeps this from coming on in my pocket.


The stock driver and stock firmware are enough for my use so I kept it like that.

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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chadvone
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OK> How are you driving the aux leds with the stock driver?

Firelight2
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Thinking of removing the anodizing from the head of an aluminum D4 and using that with bare titanium body tube, tailcap and bezel. I love the look and feel of the stock titanium-copper D4, but it is a bit heavy for pocket EDC, mostly due to the heavy copper head. Here are some measurements with a Sony VTC6 installed:

Titanium-Copper D4 stock……………………………………………….. 173g
D4 aluminum head; titanium bezel, body and tailcap ………….. 136g
D4 aluminum head, bezel and tailcap; titanium body tube …… 131g
D4 aluminum stock ………………………………………………………… 116g

I think shiny polished bare aluminum head might look good with bare titanium.

However, not all D4 versions are the same. All of my early D4s do not lego with the titanium body tube. The threads aren’t quite compatible and it won’t screw on.

I have two of the latest version of the D4 (one white and one grey) and these are legoable with the titanium tube. Unfortunately, these more recent models seem to have a different switch. The new switch is more soft-touch without as much click. That’s not a good thing since having a good click is helpful in preventing accidental pocket activation.

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chadvone wrote:
OK> How are you driving the aux leds with the stock driver?

I put 2 more thinner wires from the driver to the aux LED board.
One would be enough really, because you can re-use the “+” from the MCPCB

EDIT : glamour shot of the D4 :

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

Firelight2
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Currently EDC’ing an Emisar D4 with the following mods:

  • Bare Titanium tailcap, body tube and bezel Titanium is heavier and thermal properties are much worse. But on the other hand it doesn’t scratch or wear like aluminum. Drop a titanium light and the outside might have a tiny scratch you can polish out. Or it might have not visible damage at all. Drop an aluminum light and the anodizing might chip making the light look much uglier.
  • Grey aluminum head … this saves 36g over using the stock copper head and makes the light 26% lighter than the stock titanium-copper light with battery installed (137g instead of 173g including the weight of a VTC6 battery). The reduced weight is quite noticeable and makes the light much more comfortable for EDC pocket carry.
  • Swapped the switch on my late-model grey D4 with the switch from an early model D1. Technically, they are supposed to be the same switch, but the switch in my later run D4 lights had a lot less click and were a bit too soft-touch.
  • Snipped off the rubber post molded into the underside of the button boot. I love this mod! … with the tiny post trimmed off, the switch now requires 2-3x as much pressure to activate. Also, the “raised button”, becomes a “flush button”. The light will no longer activate by placing the switch face-down on a desk and pressing the light. This mod gives me the confidence to carry my D4 in my pocket on intermediate mode without lockout. Accidental pocket activation is now much, MUCH less likely. However, I’m still not brave enough to turn it off in turbo mode and put it in my pocket though.
  • Emitter swap – now sporting 3× 4000K XPL HI 5D and 1× 5000K XPL HI 3A. Brings the color temp to approximately 4,200K. Quite nice.

I’m considering whether to remove the grey anodizing from the head. The bare titanium might like quite nice with a shined bare aluminum pill.

Doing so would give the light a much more uniform shiny appearance, plus the piece of mind knowing that if I drop it there’s no anodizing to chip. However, in my experience shiny aluminum gets much hotter to the touch faster than dark anodized aluminum. I think the anodization provides a small amount of insulation from heat conduction. Also shiny bare aluminum has lower emissivity than dull dark anodized aluminum. I’m worried that in pursuit of making my D4 look blingy I might make it less functional. The head might get dangerously hot to the touch faster while also offering shorter turbo runtimes since the heat can’t be shed faster.

I’m also a little reluctant to remove the anodizing without possession of a backup head in case I don’t like it. I have several aluminum D4 lights, but only one of them (recent grey) has a head with threads that are fully compatible with the titanium body tube and bezel.

chadvone
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Thanks for the update FF2. I have’t got around to doing this yet. I am waiting on a driver. Might as well tear it all the way down.

How much pocket carry has it gotten ?

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Another day and another pocket destroyed by my Emisar D4. Oops! Even with my switch button trim I still had an accidental pocket activation. GRRRR.

To try to protect my remaining pants from the Emisar deep fry, this time I tried something new:

Flip up switch cover for Emisar D4.

  • The cover is made from 0.032” aluminum sheet for the main piece with 0.016” for the hinge.
  • The hinge pin is a piece of copper rod I had laying around bent into the shape of a staple.
  • I drilled 2 holes in the top of the head for the hinge pints. They aren’t very deep. Maybe 3 mm or so.
  • I used Fiberfix optical super glue to hold the whole thing together. I accidentally got some glue on the top of the switch boot. Looks unsightly but has no affect on operation so I’ll probably leave it.
  • The sides of the cover grip the sides of the head keeping the cover securly in position while closed.
  • I removed the anodizing from the aluminum head so it would match the aluminum cover. I also polished the bare aluminum on both the cover and the head.
  • When the cover is closed the switch cannot be depressed. The cover can be flipped up or down with a quick thumb action.

Hopefully this will protect my pants pockets from being burned.

chadvone
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I like it.

Phlogiston
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Warning, firing switch enabled Smile

chadvone
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If only in made a Zippo lighter sound when you flipped it up.

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That light looks really nice, though I would use alu tube as well; it’s the part with the least damage exposure…
Is there anything to make sure the cover doesn’t open by itself?

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Agro wrote:
That light looks really nice, though I would use alu tube as well; it’s the part with the least damage exposure…
Is there anything to make sure the cover doesn’t open by itself?
The sides of the cover cover curve outwards and then inwards so that when the cover is closed the side edges grip the edges of the head around the button.

The result is it takes some pressure digging my thumbnail under the bottom of the cover before it unlocks and then flips upwards. I can adjust how much pressure is needed with a long-nosed pliers. I thought of filing a groove on each side of the head for the bottom edges of the sides of the cover to slip into, but I think it isn’t needed. It seems to work quite well as-is.

Once the cover is unlocked it opens the rest of the way easily. Possibly too easily since it now tends to swing all the way forward. I might try adding a drop of super-glue into the hinge pin to add a little resistance so it will stop about halfway.

fluke
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Twice in 3 days many holes in my pocket.

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fluke wrote:

Twice in 3 days many holes in my pocket.

Hahaha yeah.

I experienced something similar. It’s what gave me the incentive to make my flip-up cover.

3 weeks ago, burned a 1” circular hole in pocket. No damage to exterior of pants or my leg, but giant hole in pocket. Then a couple days ago burned a hole in a brand new pair of pants. This new hole isn’t a full circle and it’s near the edge. Maybe I can sew it up and save the pants.

I think one of the problems is the electronic lockout is way too inconvenient. 6 clicks for lockout is waaaaaay too awkward. 3 clicks would have been much more sensible.

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Firelight2 wrote:
6 clicks for lockout is waaaaaay too awkward. 3 clicks would have been much more sensible.

Try to reflash your light with Anduril. Lockout is 4 clicks, 1 more than you would like, but less than 6. I agree 6 is way to many for lockout. 4 is manageable IMO. Also get the bonus of when you press the button in lockout you can get some light, which IIRC is the bottom of the ramp. So if you are locked out, and need a little light, you can get it quickly. If the button is pushed accidentally during lockout you won’t run down the battery.

3 clicks is battery check, temp check sunset, and beacon mode.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

fluke
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Left in lowest, then driving home,hmm something is burning, oh its me.

Ill get some pics up later.

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sbslider wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
6 clicks for lockout is waaaaaay too awkward. 3 clicks would have been much more sensible.

Try to reflash your light with Anduril. Lockout is 4 clicks, 1 more than you would like, but less than 6. I agree 6 is way to many for lockout. 4 is manageable IMO. Also get the bonus of when you press the button in lockout you can get some light, which IIRC is the bottom of the ramp. So if you are locked out, and need a little light, you can get it quickly. If the button is pushed accidentally during lockout you won’t run down the battery.

3 clicks is battery check, temp check sunset, and beacon mode.

I like Anduril. Just got my E07 yesterday and I find the 4-click lockout acceptable. Still much slower than flipping up my cover and pressing once for turbo though.

I’ve never reflashed a driver, but how hard can it be? … maybe I should get the equipment and give it a shot.

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Firelight2 wrote:

I’ve never reflashed a driver, but how hard can it be? … maybe I should get the equipment and give it a shot.

It’s not that hard, but if you don’t have all the stuff already it’s not that easy either. If you wanted to mail me the driver I could do it for you. PM if if you are interested. I have already done a couple correctly.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

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Firelight2 wrote:
I like Anduril. Just got my E07 yesterday and I find the 4-click lockout acceptable. Still much slower than flipping up my cover and pressing once for turbo though.

I’ve never reflashed a driver, but how hard can it be? … maybe I should get the equipment and give it a shot.

You can do it

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Filed down a nickel plated brass #14 finishing washer today. The plan is to mount it on a D4 around the switch boot to give more of a raised rim and make accidental pocket activation less likely. I haven’t decided which D4 to put it on, so it isn’t glued down yet. Once I decide, I’ll glue it on with arctic alumina.

Here’s the filed down #14 washer sitting next to an unmodded #14 washer from the same box:

Here it is sitting on a cyan D4:

And on a bare Titanium-copper D4:

Also did a little more work on my flip-up cover. I glued in a bit of paper clip bent into a “U” on the inside of the cover. This fully encloses the bottom of the boot when the cover is closed and provides a hard-stop so the cover doesn’t depress too much.

My conclusion:

  • The finishing washer looks excellent. When glued on it will look like the light came that way. However, it doesn’t completely eliminate the risk of accidental pocket activation. It just reduces it.
  • The flip up cover looks ok, especially when in the closed position. I took more care polishing and making a clean appearance than I did with the inside of the cover. Unfortunately, that means the inside of the cover doesn’t look good. I could try cleaning up excess glue inside it and polishing it or I could make a new cover with more care taken so that both the inside and outside look good.

Functionally, the flip cover seems more effective. When it is closed it locks into place from to the sides of the cover clamping down around the switch housing. To unlock it I have to slide my thumbnail under the back of the cover and press until the tension releases. There’s pretty much zero chance the light will ever accidentally activate in the pocket with the cover down. It gives me the confidence to EDC it when turned off in Turbo mode… something I wouldn’t dare do even with the ring or switchboot mod.

CRX
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Very nice Thumbs Up

chadvone
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Sweet switch mod. Beer

Added red

https://youtu.be/QWaFIMK6VBA

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Wow, that’s actually a very practical mod you did there Chadvone, great for lurking around protected urbex sites.

Nichia E21A fanboy

whopist
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Here is my old post of my switch mod

Same as already suggested.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59324

CRX
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chadvone wrote:
Sweet switch mod. Beer

Added red


That’s cool, what’s happening there?

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