Emisar D4 Mods

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Pöbel
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0.7mA?

did you order the Aux Board with any special requests regarding the resistors or just as is?

sbslider
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Pöbel wrote:
0.7mA?

did you order the Aux Board with any special requests regarding the resistors or just as is?


oops, typo in the previous post that I corrected, thanks!

Lexel will let you pick whatever you want. My impression is each aux board is made to order.

Below is part of our chat via private messages:

_Lexel:
config is circle of 8 then 4 inner 2

sbslider:
Changed my mind on the colors a bit. The inner 2, would like those WW. circle of 4 purple. circle of 8 red/ice blue, with the colors mixed evenly (LED 1, 3, 5, 7 red, 2, 4, 6, 8 ice blue)._

The outer circle and middle circle are very close to the same diameter. Groups of 2 of the outers and 1 of the middle form a tight triangle, with 4 groupings around the board.

Most of what is visible in the not so great picture above is the warm white and ice blue. The purple and red did not really come out well in the picture. It looks much better in person I think, but the picture gets the idea across. It looks a bit different depending on the angle you look at it which I like.

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Pöbel
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I have one with green only and one other board with blue only.

so far none is mounted, as I am trying to get anduril compiled with aux enabled Smile

love the d4. switched mine from LH351D to Sst20 today. double the throw with just a minor dip in output. both 4000k high cri

sbslider
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switching over to sst20 sounds tempting . . . . .

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It’s worth it, you get some decent throw and high CRI at the same time

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Pöbel
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only if you did not have high cri before. Both 219b/c as well as LH351D are available as high cri. I only use high cri for edc lights and headlamps Smile

but the added throw is nice

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Well I own quite a few lights and some decent emitters already (219A/B/C in different taste, LH351B/D and some 3000K/4000K SST20…) and the SST20 are a really good compromise.
My D4 has 2*3000K and 2* 4000K and is my EDC for the winter.

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I have two emitters XP-L HI V2 3A and two 5D. Not sure what the CRI of them are but I like the light they produce.

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"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

prototype3a
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Can anyone explain the difference between 219s and the LH351s? Are the Samsung LEDs more efficient?

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there are different Samsungs. LH351C and D. D has bigger die like XPL.

they are more efficient. But 219b high cri has the best tint + color imho.

sst20 is nice as well, but the 4000k high cri is no match in tint and color quality to 219b

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1. The LH351D 90CRI is the most efficient high CRI LED, but is more geared towards flood.

2. The 219Cs are the easiest LEDs to find.

3. The 219Bs have the rosiest tint and equal color rendition. It doesn’t actually reproduce the colors the most accurately though, and is the least efficient LED here.

4. The SST-20 is the throwiest high CRI emitter, has better color rendering than the 219C and LH351D, and is the most accurate emitter in terms of color rendition.
In fact, if it had a rosy tint like the 219B, the 219B would immediately be obsolete. It looks excellent regardless, but most people here prefer rosy tints rather than pure white tints, or very slightly green.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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SUCCESS!

My Emisar now runs Anduril with enabled Aux for D4. Also Blinkies have been reduced to candle + lightning storm Smile

Thanks for the tips pointing me in the right direction.

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Pöbel wrote:
SUCCESS!

My Emisar now runs Anduril with enabled Aux for D4. Also Blinkies have been reduced to candle + lightning storm Smile

Thanks for the tips pointing me in the right direction.


Grats! Hoping to do something with my D4.

I’ve ordered aux led boards from Lexel. Looking forward to installing them in my D4 lights when they arrive.

Hit a snag with Anduril flashing, but hope to have it ironed out and working soon.

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Pöbel wrote:
SUCCESS!

My Emisar now runs Anduril with enabled Aux for D4. Also Blinkies have been reduced to candle + lightning storm Smile

Thanks for the tips pointing me in the right direction.

Party Crown Thumbs Up Beer

Nice work! what sort of control do you have over the Aux board? While I don’t like some blinkies, I do find the bike light blinky very handy at times. I would go for that, candle and lightning.

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Pöbel
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You can activate and deactivate the aux LEDs and you can also set them to beacon mode. The beacon timing can be configured before compiling the firmware, as well as which blinky modes you want to have (and anything else actually :D)

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Pöbel I assume you patched out the parts of the code for the blinkies that you dind’t want. The strobes do not run at 100% power in Anduril am I right?

EDIT: I read the code briefly and indeed: “” full FET strobe can be a bit much… use max regulated level instead,” (Anduril code)” ;___;

good tint: Nichia E21A 2000K-7500K except d240 bin, Nichia 219B sw40/sw45, 219C sw303, Cree XPL-HI A/D bins, XHP70.2 5A, Samsung shaved LH351D's, SST-20 FD2, FA3, HA3, .

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CRX
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Some nice work on the D4 lights going on Thumbs Up

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Crosspost from the “what did you mod today” for future reference

Tailcap in the lathe —> 15mm hole —> glued magnet (15*3mm) —> strongest magnetic attachment in my collection

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

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Have photo of inside the tail cap?

Much nicer than my magnet job Cool

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chadvone wrote:
Have photo of inside the tail cap?

Much nicer than my magnet job Cool


The inside looks stock, in fact the tail is 3mm thick so the magnet is flush to both sides (inside and outside).

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

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Finally succeeded in flashing my Emisar D4 with Anduril tonight!!! Party

I then promptly configured the double-click shortcut from off to turn the light on at a lower setting (I did 51 clicks instead of the default 31). This is on my bare aluminum head / titanium body D4. I had previously installed a washer around the button making accidental activation unlikely, but now with Anduril installed even if by some chance the button does depress and ramps up it will stop before it burns a hole in my pocket.

I need to flash my other D4 lights the same way, but I think I’ll do that another night.

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GREAT Job. I knew you could do it Thumbs Up

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chadvone wrote:
GREAT Job. I knew you could do it Thumbs Up

Thanks.

Never was able to get Windows to allow AVRdude on my desktop. I installed it on my laptop and flashed from that. The instructions were about right, except that the first try AVRdude failed to find the hex file. It erased the ATiny, but couldn’t find the new file to put in its place even though I had it inside the AVRdude install directory. Fortunately, a quick edit to the command line to include the full path to the hex file did the trick.

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nice!

after everything is done the whole process feels so easy, but before it felt like an endless battle – at least that what it did for me Smile

Anduril with its vast customization options is just a work of art.

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Installed Lexel’s aux LED board in my D4 last night:

It was too bright for me. The blue LEDs seemed as bright as moonlight mode! I added a random resistor taken from an old driver to dim it down. This helped quite a bit.

Mods I am still contemplating for this light:

  • The random resistor I added to the aux LED circuit is wired to the aux LED board between the positive lead and the board. I’m thinking of moving this resistor to a more secure location on the driver between the negative lead and the ground pad on the 7135 chip.
  • The aux LED board is currently wired directly to positive so is always on. I need to look at that walkthrough and figure out how to enable aux LED support in the driver so the driver can control the aux LEDs.
  • I’d like to try to make a lighted switch on this D4 with one or two LEDs. The plan is to drill a hole through a bare portion of the switch cavity for the LED switch wire. Inside the switch cavity I plan to mount an LED or two plus resistors. Not sure how well this will work. Possible complications include the resistors and LEDs being felt by the finger through the switch button, which might require dremeling a cavity for them.
  • I plan to replace the black switch boot with a clear or white one so the switch light is visible. To make the new switch boot I plan to cut up a standard clicky switch boot. However, I do not know if this will be flexible enough. One concern is that I might not be able to sufficiently shape the new switch boot to provide the right tactile feel.
CRX
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I’ll post this here too:

Very nice.

Yeah that’s what I used for a lighted switch on the D4, two 1206 green LEDs & two resistors, quite a difficult job mucking about with trying to get the switch right.
If you could dremmel out space for the compnents that would prob be better but you’ll have a lot of experimetation with this Big Smile

I actually used copper tape with the SMDs & wires soldered on and some 12mm acrylic tube to give a lighted ring effect, lot of trial & error there.

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That looks nice CRX. what did you use for the new switch boot? Is your modded D4’s switch still waterproof?

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Yeah, I went through quite a few iterations of switch as can be seen in the OP Big Smile
I wouldn’t go swimming with it but waterproof enough.

The final version has the LEDs & switch under a thin clear silicone sheet and diffuser film with a section of 14mm carbon fibre tube pressed onto it/ into the switch well then a piece of 12mm acrylic tube glued into place as well, then the black kydex switch cover was siliconed to the clear silicone sheet just under flush with the top of the inserted tubes.
A LOT of playing around with that but it is really good having the lighted switch so worth it Thumbs Up

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