Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

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djozz
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My son and and a friend who was coming to play at our place had way too much energy so I kicked them onto the streets to play in the playground a few streets away. So that freed some time for the led test.

Note that I used my standard test method with all the added disclaimers about how it is done. Especially note that I keep using the djozz-lumen although I know that it is between 7% and 10% too high, I do this to be consistent, so results can be compared to all my earlier led tests.

I used a DTP 16mm led4power board for reflow because those pads matched the smaller Oslon pads of the led just a bit better than a Noctigon. And indeed the reflow went easy.

As I noticed before my maximum is at a lower current than other testers, the cooling seems less well done in my set-up. Part of it may be that I usually apply a generous amount of solder during the reflow, a bit more than the minimum needed (with Oslon-sized leds on 3535 boards, excess solder can not be squeezed out by tapping on the led). This results in a somewhat (not much though) thicker solder layer that may add to a slightly higher thermal insulation of the led.

I stopped the test at 7A. The led emitted angry blue light then, but I kept it 2 minutes at 7A to see if it could handle it, and it did. Afterwards I turned the current down to 4A and kept it there for half an hour, the output was only 1% less than the initially measured output at 4A, so the led seemed to have handled the 7A maltreatment with no problem.

Enderman
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Shocked amazing.
ahaha look at that poor xp-e2 Silly

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Thanks for the testing guys!

So in the end the lower Vf is probably why the performance is better. It simply has to deal with less heat at the same current.

Agro
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What die features determine Vf? In other words: if you want your LED to have low Vf, what do you do to achieve this?

The_Driver
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Agro wrote:
What die features determine Vf? In other words: if you want your LED to have low Vf, what do you do to achieve this?

I only know that flip chip LEDs have a lower Vf. Presumably because the resistance of the current spreader is much lower (it replaces the bond wires). The remaining Vf is caused by the actual led junction. It is specifically for blue LEDs (red LEDs for example have a lower Vf). There are probably additional factors which I don’t know about.

Also, die size is a factor. You always need to compare LEDs with the same die size (current density). That will show you that the XP-G2 is really old technology.

Osram UX:3 LEDs like the ones above use vertical current spreaders (the little dots) to distribute the current more evenly.

We are getting really off topic here…

Niko
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led4power wrote:

New coupon codes:


L4P-8of100 for every order over 100€


L4P-12of150 for every order over 150€


L4P-22of200 for every order over 200€


L4P-40of300 for every order over 300€


 


3of50 coupon is replaced by discounted registered shipping which is automatically applied for every order over 50€.


Coupons are not valid for bare Samsung leds since there is already qty discount under product options.


 


 

Can you set samsung price for 100?

Enderman
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Lower VF is good not only for lower temps (and more output) but also higher efficiency and longer regulated runtime in single-cell lights.

I hope that one day LEDs have a low enough Vf that they can basically run at full power until the battery is drained without the need for boost circuitry.

These CSLNM1.TG are 100% the best thrower LED in existence, I highly recommend people buy it Smile

led4power
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Niko wrote:
Can you set samsung price for 100?

PM sent.

led4power
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@djozz,

thermal path definitely  looks not optimal, I got peak at 5.75Amps. Excess solder could cause that when power density is high like with this LED. Also, I'm using lead-free solder which has a little bit better thermal conductivity.

 

djozz
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led4power wrote:

@djozz,


thermal path definitely  looks not optimal, I got peak at 5.75Amps. Excess solder could cause that when power density is high like with this LED. Also, I’m using lead-free solder which has a little bit better thermal conductivity.


 


I have been noticing this since other people started led tests, so it is good to have more than one test of the same led. My not so ideal heat-path tests could be seen as a simulation of average not so ideal flashlight builds Wink
DB Custom
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FWIW, the X6 build is indeed using the Ledil Iris, in the XP-E optimization.

About to go build my newly arrived purple Convoy S2+, with a 12A L4 and 3 LH351D’s at 80 CRI 5000K on Hoops copper pill. Should be an epic little tube light… Big Smile

MRsDNF
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That sounds dangerous. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Crossing my fingers hoping that heatsink threads in, haha.

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Heatsink fit fine, all went together very well. Used the small/large combination of Blue’s springs on the tail switch board and a single small spring on the driver, 20 ga Teflon leads to the triple Noctigon. But even on a 30Q it’s “only” making 2600 lumens. Not sure why that is, will look into it some today.

The Samsung’s make a huge flood of hot spot with virtually no spill, no artifacts, pretty nice triple, great for a walk or relatively close work. I have a blue S2+ also with Hoops pill and it’s making 3029 lumens with XP-L V3 3C emitters. So now the pair are pretty neat. Big Smile

Oh, FWIW, I reflow solder the triple Noctigon onto the copper sink/pill. Wink

AND, let me say once more… Hoop, these pills are stunningly beautifully made! Really nice using already perfectly executed components and simply assembling the light. (I, uh, DID actually put the positive on the driver wrong and had to troubleshoot that, white Teflon intended to be to positive, white with brown stripe intended to be negative, got em reversed. UGH! Like this is my first rodeo…)

contactcr
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Did you enable direct drive in the firmware? By default it’s set to CC for the highest mode (12A max)

DB Custom
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Ah, true, it’s on the 12A setting. Will actually probably reduce it a bit as it does get hot fairly quickly. lol Thanks for reminding me, I knew it had the DD setting but just forgot about it… Facepalm

Some years back, on my birthday, my wife and daughter gave me a T-Shirt with the text (across the front) I DO know it all! I just can’t remember it all at the same time. Silly

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led4power wrote:

vinte77 wrote:
Any progress on any of the new items that you are planning to release?

Limited qty of subZero switches should be available in 2-3days,spacers too, full kits 2-3days after those.


 

Still hoping Wink

djozz
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Is it an idea or at all possible to have centering pieces made for 3030 Oslon-sized leds like the KW CSLNM-TG? For the various reflector hole sizes around?

I find centering the one major frustrating part of using 3030 leds, a fitting centerpiece would help bigtime. I have no access to or skills with 3D printers plus that I fear for the low melting point of printable plastics.

luminarium iaculator
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led4power wrote:

@djozz,


thermal path definitely  looks not optimal, I got peak at 5.75Amps. Excess solder could cause that when power density is high like with this LED. Also, I’m using lead-free solder which has a little bit better thermal conductivity.


 

I used cheap solder paste(mechanic) we mostly use here. But very little(applied with needle syringe) Also best performance somewhere at 5.8-6A I could not define correctly as other guys with better equipment. I just have uni-t clamp meter and lux meter for testing purposes.

And I am definitive not getting any angry blue at even more than 7A after more then 3 minutes on samsung INR 30Q.

But that maybe also depends on used rig. Mine was in dd mode with fet driver, single 18650.

But I think that Djozz test also represents well how this emitter work. Some may get higher peak and some lower depends how they will reflow or cherry pick something.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

KawiBoy1428
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So what is the advantage of this KW CSLNM-TG emitter over the old G2? More throw, but less output?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

ZozzV6
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
So what is the advantage of this KW CSLNM-TG emitter over the old G2? More throw, but less output?

I just leave this here:
Old XP-G2 dedomed: 22000cd
CSLNM1.TG: 30800cd
Totally same light 3,15A current S8 host, S2+ SMO reflector, AR coated lens:

And in a GT mini (with Emisar D1S reflector):

jeja
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led4power wrote:

Niko wrote:
Can you set samsung price for 100?

PM sent.


send to me too, best price for 200 pcs
KawiBoy1428
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ZozzV6][quote=KawiBoy1428 wrote:
So what is the advantage of this KW CSLNM-TG emitter over the old G2? More throw, but less output?

I just leave this here:
Old XP-G2 dedomed: 22000cd
CSLNM1.TG: 30800cd
Totally same light 3,15A current S8 host, S2+ SMO reflector, AR coated lens:

And in a GT mini (with Emisar D1S reflector):

Those are cool pics for sure, I have 9 of them incoming, but what is the Max output 700lms?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

twisted raven
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So are we going to call this LED the Oslon White Flat or the Ostar Projection Compact?

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Those are cool pics for sure, I have 9 of them incoming, but what is the Max output 700lms?

The S8 does 573 at 3,15A.
Didn’t measured the GT mini lumens. Maybe around 600-650.
Will measure it tonight.
DB Custom
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Remember Kawi, the XSword is only making 370 lumens (for over 2 hours!) but still puts light on a water tower 1.9 miles away. Don’t get to “focused” on the low lumens numbers. Wink

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ZozzV6 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
So what is the advantage of this KW CSLNM-TG emitter over the old G2? More throw, but less output?

I just leave this here:
Old XP-G2 dedomed: 22000cd
CSLNM1.TG: 30800cd
Totally same light 3,15A current S8 host, S2+ SMO reflector, AR coated lens:

And in a GT mini (with Emisar D1S reflector):
!{width:60%}http://img2.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2609...!

Wow your room has a very dense “atmosphere” for a beam to show up like that. I can’t get any of my throwers to show a beam within my house.

ZozzV6
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SKV89 wrote:
ZozzV6 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
So what is the advantage of this KW CSLNM-TG emitter over the old G2? More throw, but less output?

I just leave this here:
Old XP-G2 dedomed: 22000cd
CSLNM1.TG: 30800cd
Totally same light 3,15A current S8 host, S2+ SMO reflector, AR coated lens:

And in a GT mini (with Emisar D1S reflector):
!{width:60%}http://img2.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2609...!

Wow your room has a very dense “atmosphere” for a beam to show up like that. I can’t get any of my throwers to show a beam within my house.


The secret beamshot trick:
My wife was cooking the dinner and burned it a little Innocent
But it was delicious ! And good for beamshots Big Smile
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ZozzV6 wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
ZozzV6 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
So what is the advantage of this KW CSLNM-TG emitter over the old G2? More throw, but less output?

I just leave this here:
Old XP-G2 dedomed: 22000cd
CSLNM1.TG: 30800cd
Totally same light 3,15A current S8 host, S2+ SMO reflector, AR coated lens:

And in a GT mini (with Emisar D1S reflector):
!{width:60%}http://img2.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2609...!

Wow your room has a very dense “atmosphere” for a beam to show up like that. I can’t get any of my throwers to show a beam within my house.


The secret beamshot trick:
My wife was cooking the dinner and burned it a little Innocent
But it was delicious ! And good for beamshots Big Smile

Hey, some dishes were literally made to be burnt! I love Iranian sour stew with burnt rice!

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

luminarium iaculator
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twisted raven wrote:
So are we going to call this LED the Oslon White Flat or the Ostar Projection Compact?

I vote for Osram White Flat.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

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