Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

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led4power
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https://www.cutter.com.au/product/mcpcb-xml_xhp5032_tpad/

Some TPAD PCBs use TH pads for wires.

Honestly I see more disadvantages with this:

1.It doesn't really solve "bump" problem, you still need to put some solder on top,so surface is not flat

2.How easy/hard is to solder wires on big copper PCB with those TH pads?

3.Tolerances of holes for wires in flashlight pills/heads are pretty bad from my experience, TH wire pads would be more sensitive to those tolerances

4.TH wire pad means you have pad also on bottom of PCB, this means you must be very careful not to short them to pill/head - high precision holes are required, and no pcb twisting is allowed

5. Price is higher.

 

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kiriba-ru wrote:
I think your soldering skills allow using more professional decisions. For example, tiny connectors with small pin located near pcb edge and outer contact soldered to the driver wire.

Soldering skills? I hate soldering. Adding pins might work on a triple in your pic, but triples with triple optics don’t have reflector shorting issues, and therefor don’t have the issues that I’m fed up with. I can’t see that adding pins on a “standard” MCPCB would help with reflector shorting issues. You still have to connect the pin to the pad somehow.

zeroflow wrote:
I did a fast mockup of how that proposed idea would look.

If people can drill holes through the MCPCB and do this without shorts, I can’t see the need for such a complicated design. But yes, I admit I know nothing about fabrication methods for LED MCPCBs. If I knew enough about that stuff I would have designed something myself and wouldn’t have needed to spend time whining in here.

led4power wrote:
It doesn’t really solve “bump” problem, you still need to put some solder on top,so surface is not flat

Perfectly flat isn’t needed. A little bump would be so much better than the whole wire bent, just like in the thread I linked to.

led4power wrote:
How easy/hard is to solder wires on big copper PCB with those TH pads?

Don’t know. I don’t see the actual soldering to be any harder. I’m thinking isolated holes with pads on top only.

led4power wrote:
TH wire pads would be more sensitive to those tolerances

More sensitive yes, but too sensitive? I guess I haven’t dealt with so many hosts, from my experience tolerances wouldn’t be so bad that this wouldn’t work.

led4power wrote:
TH wire pad means you have pad also on bottom of PCB, this means you must be very careful not to short them to pill/head

Would you really need that? I’m thinking more of an isolated hole with LED connection pads on top side only. Or simple through holes just like the drilled holes in the thread I linked to, except the drilled holes are actually in the place of two of the standard wire notches, and the LED connection PADs run out to them, using the wire coating as isolation.

led4power wrote:
Price is higher.
Yes… so? I would pay extra for it because it would save me headaches. People have spent a various amount of time dealing with reflector shorts and ways to get around them like in that thread. I’d just be happy to pay extra to avoid it… but as I can’t find any MCPCBs like this, I guess I’m alone.
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zeroflow wrote:

Do you know how they did the thermal transfer from the LED to the body? Vias? Metallic inserts?

Because the PCB looks like a 2/4 layer FR4 board.


Dont know anything about most modern modules. Some time ago pcb was made from 3 layers – aluminium base + best possible isolator + top thin pcb. First modules had copper insert (thin coin with 3 central pads growing) and top layer had holes for this pads.

P.S. Please dont try to repeat lux-rc technics. They are not budget and usually require a lab equipped as good as it is needed to win Nobel prize in physics.

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kiriba-ru wrote:
zeroflow wrote:

Do you know how they did the thermal transfer from the LED to the body? Vias? Metallic inserts?

Because the PCB looks like a 2/4 layer FR4 board.


Dont know anything about most modern modules. Some time ago pcb was made from 3 layers – aluminium base + best possible isolator + top thin pcb. First modules had copper insert (thin coin with 3 central pads growing) and top layer had holes for this pads.

P.S. Please dont try to repeat lux-rc technics. They are not budget and usually require a lab equipped as good as it is needed to win Nobel prize in physics.

Thanks for that bit. Seems plausible.

As for repeating their ideas: Thanks for the warning. I view myself as experienced enough to know what is a good idea and what is just a pain in the rear. (ECE education + >5 yr electronics + embedded systems experience)

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Mike C wrote:
kiriba-ru wrote:
I think your soldering skills allow using more professional decisions. For example, tiny connectors with small pin located near pcb edge and outer contact soldered to the driver wire.

Soldering skills? I hate soldering. Adding pins might work on a triple in your pic, but triples with triple optics don’t have reflector shorting issues, and therefor don’t have the issues that I’m fed up with. I can’t see that adding pins on a “standard” MCPCB would help with reflector shorting issues. You still have to connect the pin to the pad somehow.

Pins can be located at thin edge – solder bubble is usually much bigger and way more close to the center.
Pins can be angled – i.e. you can move connection outside the pcb border.
Pins can have isolated base.

If pcb diameter is too small and reflector base is too big, I see only one decision. You extra thin pcb, soldered with hot air face to face to main pcb. In most cases it can be little bigger than stock pcb. Also you can use flat metal strips with thin heatsink instead of wires (power tool batteries can carry 10amps trough nickel strips but I think copper is better).

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kiriba-ru wrote:
Pins can be located at thin edge – solder bubble is usually much bigger and way more close to the center.
Pins can be angled – i.e. you can move connection outside the pcb border.
Pins can have isolated base.

Pins might be a great suggestion, but where are the single LED MCPCBs with pins? If they exist I’d love to try them, if not, then it’s back to modding. How would you suggest adding these pins to single LED MCPCBs?

I’ve been filing down reflector edges and using kapton tape. It works but it’s ugly. I guess flat copper straps could work too but holes are a much nicer solution so if I have to do it myself I prefer to drill holes. It just would be nice to not even have to do that.

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Mike C wrote:
kiriba-ru wrote:
Pins can be located at thin edge – solder bubble is usually much bigger and way more close to the center.
Pins can be angled – i.e. you can move connection outside the pcb border.
Pins can have isolated base.

Pins might be a great suggestion, but where are the single LED MCPCBs with pins? If they exist I’d love to try them, if not, then it’s back to modding. How would you suggest adding these pins to single LED MCPCBs?

I’ve been filing down reflector edges and using kapton tape. It works but it’s ugly. I guess flat copper straps could work too but holes are a much nicer solution so if I have to do it myself I prefer to drill holes. It just would be nice to not even have to do that.

What is your soldering workflow and tools? Because I’ve had great success with a pair of ceramic tweezers and using the right amount of solder.

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zeroflow wrote:
What is your soldering workflow and tools? Because I’ve had great success with a pair of ceramic tweezers and using the right amount of solder.

Success at adding pins or soldering wires to MCPCBs? I have a normal soldering station and tweezers. Sure, I can solder wires to MCPCBs, but still have to file down reflector if it’s too big.

Still interested in Kiriba-ru’s pin solution for single LED MCPCBs. Care to share?

Edit: This is thread hijack… I’ll start this discussion elsewhere. I can at least gather from here that there won’t be any Led4Power MCPCBs with holes.

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hi LED4POWER,

I would like to purchase some of your product to make my flashlight, but i’m not sure which to buy. What is the main difference between LD-B4 and LD-A4, and which driver are compatible with which of your LED PCB? Is it correct that B4 driver need MOSFET MCPCB, but A4 do not? Thank you.

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You answered your own question, B4 works in combination with mcpcbs which have MOSFET, A4 works with standard mcpcbs like most other drivers.

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https://led4power.com/product-category/mcpcbs-dtp-copper/3030-osram/

New 3030 DTP boards in 16mm and 20mm size, made specially for Osram white flat LEDs, but Osram has some other high power LEDs in that size too.

Reason for these boards over XP/3535 boards is that with XP boards white flat LED like to slide on one corner during reflow causing off-centered LED if it's not re-centered during reflow with tweezers.

For small qty this may be ok, but for me it was a PITA. With new 3030 boards there is no such problem since footprint is exact like it should be and LED is always nicely centered.

These PCBs have factory lapped bottom surface and they are fully gold plated, so price is little bit higher than nickel plated PCBs. Also PCBs in panel are separated by double V-cut for nicer and cleaner cut without notches, this also adds ~10-15% cost.

From now on I will only have white flat LEDs soldered on 3030 PCBs, I already changed listing for 20mm white flat 1 and 2, and will do the same for 16mm after few last pcs soldered on XP16 PCBs are sold.

 

 

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Cool I wish all those nice new products came in your shop all at once, I keep ordering things. Luckily shipping is very reasonable.
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I was informed to post here to ask about X6 heatsinks

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Get ready to order some 4040 PCBs for when the boost HX arrives Silly

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n10sivern wrote:
I was informed to post here to ask about X6 heatsinks

Still need some time for release.

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Mike C wrote:
Asking is free, so I’ll ask…

I am fed up with dealing with reflector shorts and thick wires on MCPCBs. I don’t quite understand why there aren’t any LED MCPCBs that have through holes/vias that are wire connection points instead of the slots for wires to pass through and solder on top.

I’d like something like this: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34042 but instead of having to drill new holes on the pill/shelf, have two of the existing slots for wires converted to holes for direct wire soldering. This would make things a lot easier. Is there a reason why these kind of MCPCBs don’t exist? Have you considered making MCPCBs like this? I’d only buy these if they existed.


Thanks for sharing the link to that old thread!
Indeed a very good idea. Thumbs Up

2Q19

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led4power wrote:

https://led4power.com/product-category/mcpcbs-dtp-copper/3030-osram/



New 3030 DTP boards in 16mm and 20mm size, made specially for Osram white flat LEDs, but Osram has some other high power LEDs in that size too.


Reason for these boards over XP/3535 boards is that with XP boards white flat LED like to slide on one corner during reflow causing off-centered LED if it’s not re-centered during reflow with tweezers.


For small qty this may be ok, but for me it was a PITA. With new 3030 boards there is no such problem since footprint is exact like it should be and LED is always nicely centered.


These PCBs have factory lapped bottom surface and they are fully gold plated, so price is little bit higher than nickel plated PCBs. Also PCBs in panel are separated by double V-cut for nicer and cleaner cut without notches, this also adds ~10-15% cost.


From now on I will only have white flat LEDs soldered on 3030 PCBs, I already changed listing for 20mm white flat 1 and 2, and will do the same for 16mm after few last pcs soldered on XP16 PCBs are sold.


 


 


Hey that’s great!
I have a bunch of 1st generation Oslon squares that could use dedicated 3030 boards.
I will order some next time.

2Q19

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Nice! And Osram 850 and 940nm should be fine withe these Thumbs Up

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I demand mcpcb with centrally positioned SFT solderting pad and will not move from this thread until I get what I want Silly

 

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Man how I wish you got the FA1, FA4, FD1, or FD4 tint bin. I would have bought a bunch presoldered on your mighty mcpcbs for sure. Too bad the FC1 tint is above the BBL and I can’t get used to any emitter with greenish tints.

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Wow...J5 bin, that’s good! FD1 instead of FC1 as tint bin would have been the icing on the cake. I‘m curious if there’s any green shift in those ones.

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Unfortunately, you can't choose tint bins so tightly, so it's pure lottery. 

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Just saw your store L4P, the lighted tail switches are out of stock! Any idea when they’ll be back, mate?
Thanks!

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I'm waiting for omten switches.

 

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I’ve been hanging out waiting for the subzero switches Wink Any late Xmas ideas on the way…?

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led4power wrote:

I’m waiting for omten switches.


 


Thank you !!! I noticed the store is closed, so I’ll wait for the reopening and for the switches to arrive to order some things! Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 & Tool 25

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses:1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 / Triple TIR & XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Yes, store is now closed till 01/01/2019.

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led4power wrote:

Yes, store is now closed till 01/01/2019.

Have some rest meanwhile Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 & Tool 25

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses:1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 / Triple TIR & XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

 

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Okay guys, I just installed an LD-B4 and a MOSX with Luxeon MZ in a C8…
It lights ON but I don’t understand how to switch modes, or config or whatever.
With the closed website I can’t access to the datasheet sooo… anyone knows how these work please ?

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