Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

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contactcr
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-X3-
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contactcr wrote:
https://led4power.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/LD-4-datasheet-1.1.pdf

Thank you very much, now everything makes sense !
That said :
- I don’t like the tint of the Luxeon MZ…either it’s too cool for me to appreciate the 90CRI, or the beam shape screws it too much…
- The beam shape is ugly in the SMO C8 reflector… well maybe I’ll try in an S2+ then
- I’ve never felt a C8 getting hot that fast !

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contactcr
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I put one in an Eagle Eye X6 and then cut out a donut shaped piece of DC Fix to go on the lens. It gets rid of the hole in the beam but it’s still a bit of a messy shape. The tint across the whole beam is fine though it’s just the shape that bothers me.

DC Fix over the entire lens obviously fixes all of this but in my opinion kills too much throw to make this host appealing. Dont use SMO anything for this LED. Even smooth TIRs are not acceptable typically.

Wieselflinkpro
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contactcr wrote:
I put one in an Eagle Eye X6 and then cut out a donut shaped piece of DC Fix to go on the lens. It gets rid of the hole in the beam but it’s still a bit of a messy shape. The tint across the whole beam is fine though it’s just the shape that bothers me.

DC Fix over the entire lens obviously fixes all of this but in my opinion kills too much throw to make this host appealing. Dont use SMO anything for this LED. Even smooth TIRs are not acceptable typically.

I have it in a Eagle Eye X7 with DC Fix too.
A little too cold, but its a nice beam and throw without donut hole.
With fresh blue Liitokala batteries I get 2800 lumen at the start.

contactcr
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
contactcr wrote:
I put one in an Eagle Eye X6 and then cut out a donut shaped piece of DC Fix to go on the lens. It gets rid of the hole in the beam but it’s still a bit of a messy shape. The tint across the whole beam is fine though it’s just the shape that bothers me.

DC Fix over the entire lens obviously fixes all of this but in my opinion kills too much throw to make this host appealing. Dont use SMO anything for this LED. Even smooth TIRs are not acceptable typically.

I have it in a Eagle Eye X7 with DC Fix too.
A little too cold, but its a nice beam and throw without donut hole.
With fresh blue Liitokala batteries I get 2800 lumen at the start.

Did you use DC Fix across the entire lens or just the outside?

led4power
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-X3- wrote:
Thank you very much, now everything makes sense ! That said : - I don't like the tint of the Luxeon MZ...either it's too cool for me to appreciate the 90CRI, or the beam shape screws it too much... - The beam shape is ugly in the SMO C8 reflector... well maybe I'll try in an S2+ then - I've never felt a C8 getting hot that fast !

C8 OP reflector should give smooth beam:

https://www.banggood.com/C8-T6-Orange-Peel-Reflector-Flashlight-Cup-p-932209.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

I bought these,but still didn't try them.

 

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Do you happen to have an e-switch version of the LD-4 driver?

led4power
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No.

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led4power wrote:

No.


…but you’re still planning on one, right? LOL

2Q19

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In 2019 I will have more free time for drivers development.

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That’s good to hear. I hope to see an e-switch version of an already established design like the LD-4.

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Jaded wrote:
That’s good to hear. I hope to see an e-switch version of an already established design like the LD-4.

Seconded, different diameters would be a plus also (22mm especially.)

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

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Ah yes that would be so great! Thumbs Up

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TheDude wrote:
Jaded wrote:
That’s good to hear. I hope to see an e-switch version of an already established design like the LD-4.

Seconded, different diameters would be a plus also (22mm especially.)

+1 on both Wink

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contactcr
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MascaratumB wrote:
TheDude wrote:
Jaded wrote:
That’s good to hear. I hope to see an e-switch version of an already established design like the LD-4.

Seconded, different diameters would be a plus also (22mm especially.)

+1 on both Wink

+2 but I expressed this several pages ago as well

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contactcr wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
TheDude wrote:
Jaded wrote:
That’s good to hear. I hope to see an e-switch version of an already established design like the LD-4.

Seconded, different diameters would be a plus also (22mm especially.)

+1 on both Wink

+2 but I expressed this several pages ago as well


And I agreed with that as well Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Jerommel
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Neven, you would probably sell a lot of e-switch versions if you had them.
Then people can finally put decent drivers in their e-switch lights, like Astrolux S42 and 43 and the Emisars.

2Q19

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Jerommel wrote:
Neven, you would probably sell a lot of e-switch versions if you had them.
Then people can finally put decent drivers in their e-switch lights, like Astrolux S42 and 43 and the Emisars.

I’ll second that. I have an Emisar S42 that could use a good driver.

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Me too. (i think you mean Astrolux)
And my Convoy / Sofirn C8 triple host is waiting for something like this too.
I also have a Skilhunt H03 with a driver that behaves like it will die soon…

2Q19

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As always, thank you for your fast delivery and good packaging.

But a word of caution for everyone buying a luxeon MZ: This LED does not like solvents / cleaning.
I managed to turn mine into a beautiful blue by trying to clean the flux from soldering: https://i.imgur.com/rszOsls.jpg

Also, are there tips and tricks how to solder the MosDTP + LD-4B driver in a host with an integrated shelf like the Convoy M1?
I had huge problems soldering the MCPCB inside the head and even when I managed to solder everything, the solderjoints at + and – were to big and were shorting to the reflector.

My approach was a small piece of wire which lifted the MCPCB enough so it was possible to limit heat transfer to the head.
Would another aproach like soldering the MCPCB first, inserting it and then soldering everything to the driver be a better idea?

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What did you use for removing the flux?
It should withstand alcohol.

As for soldering very thermally conductive LED boards, you just need a powerful soldering iron, which can heat up a small area really fast.
That means a pointed solder tip is not what you want.
A chisel bit is much better.
When it’s really difficult i get my 100 Watt iron with a big chisel bit out.
Then the solder pads of the LED board have no other choice but to get hot. Smile
First tin both parts you want to solder, of course.
Add some flux grease too.

2Q19

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It was this “Leiterplattenreiniger” from a german company: https://www.conrad.at/de/leiterplattenreiniger-crc-kontakt-chemie-kontak...
The brush probably also did it’s part…

Quote:
As for soldering very thermally conductive LED boards, you just need a powerful soldering iron, which can heat up a small area really fast.

Until now, my 75W Hakko 888D did a good job. But I didn’t increase the temperature.

Quote:
That means a pointed solder tip is not what you want.
A chisel bit is much better.
When it’s really difficult i get my 100 Watt iron with a big chisel bit out.

I’m using a BC-Style Tip

Quote:
Then the solder pads of the LED board have no other choice but to get hot. Smile
First tin both parts you want to solder, of course.
Add some flux grease too.

Did that. Tinned the pad and then added extra flux.

But back to my last question: Which one would you suggest:

a) Solder wires to driver; insert into head; cut to length, strip and tin; add thermal paste; insert MCPCB into head with a spacer; solder wires to MCPCB
b) Solder wires to MCPCB; add thermal paste; insert into head; cut to length, strip and tin; solder wires to driver, insert driver and wire-slack into the head and fix

Or something different?

Jerommel
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I would suggest a).
It’s often much more difficult to solder wires coming from the pill or head onto the driver, especially when you want to keep the wires short.

I think it would help to turn up the heat.
Just put it on max for the occasion.
That way the tip has a bunch of extra heat stored to heat up the LED board fast locally.

Your choice of bit is probably even better than a chisel bit.

(bit or tip? i mean the same…)

2Q19

contactcr
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If you pre-tinned the MCPCB +/- pad and wire (preferably with leaded solder so everything is easier) your solder blob that you pre-tinned should melt quickly with the chisel tip and iron turned up high (I think I do around 410-420c for this purpose).

Since the tip is so hot it will turn black, you want to clean it with a brass tip cleaner right before you go at it so it’s nice and shiny.

Your trick with using something to break the tight bond between shelf and MCPCB is good too if you can do it. I will sometimes prop up one side with a tweezer or lay it uneven on the shelf for a second but it’s not necessary.

zeroflow
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Yes it was pre-tinned on both sides and I was using classic 60/40 solder. The temperature was probably the problem as I was using my standard 340°C soldering temperature…

Well, I’ll see on the next try as soon as I get another LED.

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zeroflow wrote:
But back to my last question: Which one would you suggest: a) Solder wires to driver; insert into head; cut to length, strip and tin; add thermal paste; insert MCPCB into head with a spacer; solder wires to MCPCB b) Solder wires to MCPCB; add thermal paste; insert into head; cut to length, strip and tin; solder wires to driver, insert driver and wire-slack into the head and fix Or something different?

 

I would recommend b) for mosX/mosDTP boards, people who says a) - it's like trying to solder solid piece of metal with these boards, and you risk LED damage from too high temp.

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I have never seen a board worse than Noctigon quads positive therminal to solder to

But still with 330 degree celsius and a proper solid tip and flux its no problem

Mostly if people say hard to solder they lack simply proper quality solder gear

The linked Hakko tip is ideal for soldering MCPCBs any tip can do as long as its thick and short

There is absolutely no risk cooking the LED while soldering leads to it as you never reach 240 degree temperature on the whole board even if you lift it

Heating the whole head to about 100 degree helps a lot soldering build in MCPCBs

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If the MCPCB is heatsinked well it will suck the heat from the soldering iron.
You would need to set it to like 400+ degrees to even start melting solder.
The best option is to have the wires already soldered to the MCPCB, or at least not add thermal paste and tighten the MCPCB down until the wires are on.

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I recommend bismuth based solder for thermally tough joints. But watch for fakes:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61331

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Use that big hot iron with chisel tip but also: keep the tip clean. An oxidised tip can ruin the heat transfer very effectively while a freshly cleaned tip does the job effortlessly.

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