IMO, this is one of if not the best home defense tactical lights I've ever used/owned/seen.
All the flashy blinky modes, sharp pointy bezels, pressure switches, need not apply.
I've pumped 4 full mag tubes of double 0 buckshot alternating with deer slugs thru without a hiccup from my grey 219c D4. The dual springs and solid quality construction seems to do their job absorbing impact.
The sheer power and thermal protection this D4 offers at a reasonable price is perfect for my shotgun home defense. It lights up a room like no other micro small tac light. It needs nothing more then 1 push on the switch to illuminate on turbo for 10-15 seconds of 3000+ lumen. Enough flood light no matter where its pointed to show up a cockroach crawling in the corner of the room. Then without any input from the occupied user it eventually ramps down thermally to a self sustained 500-700 lumen(?) for more then enough time to dispose of any threats in the home... And the switch is maybe 4-5" from my hand on the forearm pump stock. Emisar D4 is a perfect shotgun tac light for me....! !
Do you mean its not good being on the “business end”…?
My pleasure, just wanted to share how good this light really is for many uses.
And maybe to some, show its hidden use of close quarters tac light.
All these other tac lights with all the choices of various modes/groups/maybe pushing buttons multiple times, just make a tense maybe panic situation more difficult imo. The ramping interface on the D4 is the perfect ‘not have to think about it’ interface. It keeps the light as bright as it can be for as long as it can, without any user input or thinking. To me this is perfect in those high stress maybe confusing situations of home defense. Did I mention how amazingly super bright this thing is…?
With no mount on D4 cold start, it thermally ramped within 15-20 seconds or less, and continues to ramp down.
Mounted to my Mossberg with alum quick disconnect, and mag tube picatinny ring mount with arctic silver on all contact points on mag tube, rails, and light quick disconnect, The first ramping happened in about 35seconds and then stayed at the first ramp instead of continuing to ramp down. The heat stayed below 130° on the outside of head for at least the 3 or 4 minutes I tested for. The shotgun mag tube the light is mounted on got warm to 102° or so.
Here is a pic of the mounts I use. The mag tube picatinny ring looks almost like a heat sink, lol.
I also removed the little 3m velcro strips I put on the light mount to protect it from scratching the light and replaced it with arctic silver.
I will agree it is a great light, but for WML I would choose 300 LM or under. Having woke up and grabbed the bump in the night stick, when you hit the power and the light hits a white wall. You are, or can easily blind yourself.
Side note, when the small tree next to the house is banging against the house when there is no wind, Think BIG MOOSE not bear. I swear he would look eye to eye with most Clydesdale horses. Ah the joys of living on the last frontier.
D4 is not a long range extended time gun mounted hunting light, or prolonged outdoors search light. Or extended time swat weapon light.
But for that very (hopefully) occasional close range indoor bursts of home defense with a shotgun, it makes me feel real comfortable knowing its on the end of my mossberg, and close at hand. And like most of us here, I can put any light I want on it and have tried many of the best. Did I mention its SUPER BRIGHT...
A little side note to those of you mounting lights. After firing several rounds I’ve noticed they and/or the mounts like to slide up the barrel. I’m now using a dab of silicone spread over the clamping surface. Let the silicone dry then clamp the items together. It seems to help hold the light and mount in place while protecting the finish from gouging. And a plug for the guy who builds rock solid dropins. https://www.pflexpro.com/P60-Drop-In-s/1821.htm Take a look at how he pots the electronics with Stycast 2850FP. It’s rock solid when done.
Not real familiar with potting drivers that have thermal regulation. Will the potting affect the sensitivity of the already slow acting on board driver chip thermal regulation…?
Don’t know about your driver, it should improve thermal transfer regardless and keep the SMD’s all in place. I have done a couple projects with Randy on my own personal weapon/handgun lights in the past when he was just starting out and I have used Stycast on many other medium/high power builds of mine, MT-G2/XHP70 Surefire 961/962 900A’s weapon lights, M3 Combat Lights along with 6/9P’s and it works. Randy has done extensive research and testing and he made it his passion and business!
