No, not at this time. People that don’t have the light already complain about this tube being too long.
And a longer tube would be excessive I have to agree, adding even more weight to the light.
I have actually carried the light on trails on a sling, but noticed it would have been more comfortable if it was longer, so as to rest it on the shoulder while aiming the light.
I guess I can always make an extension just for support. Thanks.
That is a point and something to consider down the road but there are a lot of things that need to happen before that.
Anyone think about changing the color of the switch LEDs? I think one of mine isn’t working properly and would like to fix it but while i’m in there maybe I could change the color?
Anyone think about changing the color of the switch LEDs? I think one of mine isn’t working properly and would like to fix it but while i’m in there maybe I could change the color?
Changing the switch LED’s is fairly simple, They are either 0805 or 0603 SMDLED’s and you can use any color you want.
I am waiting for a single carrier “shorty” tube. I carry the GT right at the switch area so balance is not a problem. A little less weight and smaller overall size would be nice in my opinion.
I have opened my flashlight by 2 people (my son and I) using non-skid rubber gloves.
With the stock Led obtained 925.000Cd. I have replaced it with a boiling thinner dedomed XHP35 HD and now I achieve 1.186.000Cd.
The Led I used was removed from a Haikelite MT02.
The measurements are at 10 meters. At 15 meters I get 1.118.000Cd
Neither of those two distances is far enough to get an accurate reading.
You might be right, but with a second measure (15m) smaller than the first one (10m), I have interpreted that the beam was already collimated at that distance.
In any case, my luxmeter is very cheap and crappy. I want to think that the actual results are better.
They still say they plan to make some ready made 12V mcpcb’s once they get caught up on the GB but nice to have an option before that.
I got them from Lumintop T/A.
I emailed them about them and they asked what were they for, I answered honestly and they just ignored me afterwards…
How did you convince them? Got a spare you could sell?
Ancient Chinese Secret…been dealing with Lumintop for years, I did a SD75 XHP35HI and needed Smooth reflectors, they made them for me. I sent pics and written details of the builds, the rep at that time was Will, he thought it was very Cool. I guess I’m on their Cool list? A shout out to Convoy, Thrunite, and Phoenix they are great to deal with also, at least on my end.
I would like to mod my GT with an XHP70.2, someone can kindly tell me which resistor to replace on the original driver, and possibly which value to use?
Thanks.
I would like to mod my GT with an XHP70.2, someone can kindly tell me which resistor to replace on the original driver, and possibly which value to use?
Thanks.
I have posted this information before somewhere.
You need to replace the 2512 3W resistor with either a .050ohm or .040ohm. The .040 is not officially recommended but it has been working fine in my light for months now.
The biggest issue is the xhp70.2 mcpcb, they are hard to find.
I am trying to talk lumintop into making a batch of them and I think they might do it. Although time will tell for sure.
I have opened my flashlight by 2 people (my son and I) using non-skid rubber gloves.
With the stock Led obtained 925.000Cd. I have replaced it with a boiling thinner dedomed XHP35 HD and now I achieve 1.186.000Cd.
The Led I used was removed from a Haikelite MT02.
The measurements are at 10 meters. At 15 meters I get 1.118.000Cd
Tomorrow evening Djozz and I will measure our BLF GT’s in the basement floor of my appartmentblock: we have an indoor beamshot location of up to 45 meters……….
should give us some decent throw numbers indication.
I would like to mod my GT with an XHP70.2, someone can kindly tell me which resistor to replace on the original driver, and possibly which value to use?
Thanks.
I would like to mod my GT with an XHP70.2, someone can kindly tell me which resistor to replace on the original driver, and possibly which value to use?
Thanks.
I would like to mod my GT with an XHP70.2, someone can kindly tell me which resistor to replace on the original driver, and possibly which value to use?
Thanks.
thanks, I still did not understand what is the resistor to change, over the weekend I will try again.
these seem right and at a good price https://m.ebay.it/itm/10x-LRP2512-R040-1-Resistor-sensing-SMD-2512-40m-3W-1-55-170-C-VIKING-/192399386351?_mwBanner=1
thanks, I still did not understand what is the resistor to change, over the weekend I will try again.
these seem right and at a good price
https://m.ebay.it/itm/10x-LRP2512-R040-1-Resistor-sensing-SMD-2512-40m-3W-1-55-170-C-VIKING-/192399386351?_mwBanner=1
Yes, that one will work fine.
Once you look at the driver it will be clear which one it is. It is the only resistor of that size on the driver. Right now it should say 91 or something on it.
That is a point and something to consider down the road but there are a lot of things that need to happen before that.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Anyone think about changing the color of the switch LEDs? I think one of mine isn’t working properly and would like to fix it but while i’m in there maybe I could change the color?
Changing the switch LED’s is fairly simple, They are either 0805 or 0603 SMD LED’s and you can use any color you want.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I’m sure it must have been answered somewhere but i can’t find it, is the button cap retaining ring pressed in or threaded ?
Thanks
Threaded.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Thanks TA, that’s good news.
I have opened my flashlight by 2 people (my son and I) using non-skid rubber gloves.
With the stock Led obtained 925.000Cd. I have replaced it with a boiling thinner dedomed XHP35 HD and now I achieve 1.186.000Cd.
The Led I used was removed from a Haikelite MT02.
The measurements are at 10 meters. At 15 meters I get 1.118.000Cd
Will you do any engraving or modification to the anodization?
I recently saw your Utorch…
I am waiting for a single carrier “shorty” tube. I carry the GT right at the switch area so balance is not a problem. A little less weight and smaller overall size would be nice in my opinion.
How many lumens does the light produce?
No integrating sphere. I’m sorry.
Visibly more lumens than stock.
Neither of those two distances is far enough to get an accurate reading.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
You might be right, but with a second measure (15m) smaller than the first one (10m), I have interpreted that the beam was already collimated at that distance.
In any case, my luxmeter is very cheap and crappy. I want to think that the actual results are better.
if the further measurement is lower your beam is either not focused to infinity but rather to something under 15m or your measuring method is off
I emailed them about them and they asked what were they for, I answered honestly and they just ignored me afterwards…
How did you convince them? Got a spare you could sell?
I am working on a CFT-90 driver for GT
TN42 design finished
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Ancient Chinese Secret…been dealing with Lumintop for years, I did a SD75 XHP35HI and needed Smooth reflectors, they made them for me. I sent pics and written details of the builds, the rep at that time was Will, he thought it was very Cool. I guess I’m on their Cool list? A shout out to Convoy, Thrunite, and Phoenix they are great to deal with also, at least on my end.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
@ Lexcel
which input voltage?
carrier mod necessary?
already member of M4DM4X.com ?
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before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!
I would like to mod my GT with an XHP70.2, someone can kindly tell me which resistor to replace on the original driver, and possibly which value to use?
Thanks.
I have posted this information before somewhere.
You need to replace the 2512 3W resistor with either a .050ohm or .040ohm. The .040 is not officially recommended but it has been working fine in my light for months now.
The biggest issue is the xhp70.2 mcpcb, they are hard to find.
I am trying to talk lumintop into making a batch of them and I think they might do it. Although time will tell for sure.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Tomorrow evening Djozz and I will measure our BLF GT’s in the basement floor of my appartmentblock: we have an indoor beamshot location of up to 45 meters……….
should give us some decent throw numbers indication.
Me or Djozz will post the results.
Cheers
Nico
I purchased a R047 from here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192261425351
Now I noticed that TA said 3W power the link is for 1W power, would that still work? or do I risk effing something up?
That resistor while technically ok is only rated for 1W. The resistor needs to be rated for 3W for long term reliability.
I have yet to find a reasonably priced 3w .047ohm resistor myself, so I just recommend the .050 and .040 now.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Thanks for the clarification TA, I just noticed it! The cheapest I found was $20 for 100 pieces… Will this one work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100PCS-X-Bourns-3W-2512-0-047R-47MR-0-047-OHM-1-RES-Metal-Film-Chip-Resistor/332133259856?epid=574292028&hash=item4d54af5a50:g:YTsAAOSw32lYq0×3
Yes, that would work but please don’t spend that much on a resistor. Better to just get an 050 or 040 for less then $1.
Or for that kind of money wait until my TA drivers are finished and buy one of those. It will give you a lot more performance from the xhp70.2.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
thanks, I still did not understand what is the resistor to change, over the weekend I will try again.
these seem right and at a good price
https://m.ebay.it/itm/10x-LRP2512-R040-1-Resistor-sensing-SMD-2512-40m-3W-1-55-170-C-VIKING-/192399386351?_mwBanner=1
or am I wrong ?
Yes, that one will work fine.
Once you look at the driver it will be clear which one it is. It is the only resistor of that size on the driver. Right now it should say 91 or something on it.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I sure won’t buy @ $20, will keep looking around or just wait for your driver boards, I’m not in a hurry…
Thanks TA, I’ll wait for your drivers.
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