Inspired by DBSAR, my SRK-based Lantern

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MtnDon
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Inspired by DBSAR, my SRK-based Lantern

OK, today’s post is a teaser of sorts. I won’t be able to concentrate on working on this project for a few weeks. I took a detour from working on my BLF/OL 5th Annual Contest entry today because I couldn’t wait. I found some jars online that I thought could be used to complete this version of DBSAR’s SRK lantern. They arrived in today’s post.

A cheap SRK clone.

Three pictures… The first is me hacksawing some off the nose of the head using a split/drilled wood block set to hold the head.

Then one of the PET jars I found sitting in the nose of the head alongside the cut off piece.

And the body with the jar and a remote phosphor just like in last years contest entry

There will be more as I can get back to this.

Edited by: MtnDon on 11/22/2017 - 21:12
MRsDNF
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Orsm Don. Looking forward to see this one proceed. Now get back to the OL comp build. Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Two months and 5 days after the start, I finished this. Not that I was working constantly on this; mostly it sat as I waited for a few parts and was occupied with other things. Today I took time to get it done. I must say I’m relatively happy, but also have my name in for two of the BLF Ultimate Lantern Project lamps.

EDIT: Since the photos were taken I shortened the coupling nut used for the top ring. I could have used one of the available ready made adapters made for tripod threads, but I didn’t want to spend the money when I could make something similar from materials on hand. 12/19/2017

I used yet another of the XT-E royal blue led’s and a remote phosphor. The phosphor has a color temperature of 3000 K.

The top is a PET plastic jar found on ebay.

A few “lamp on – lights out” shots at different levels. The driver uses 2 × 7135, 350 mA regulators. For the intended use I believe that is plenty of light and ensures a long run time with 4 × 3000 mAh cells. Even more when I get some 3400 mAh button tops.

Next will be some component shots.

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Some of the head parts.

1/4” thick aluminum from the $4 a pound scrap bin at the local metal seller. It was laser cut for some project… I drilled the hole.

A copper plate with a piece of copper bar and a brass nut soldered on. The bar is drilled through to provide space for the screw to tighten without bottoming out against the copper plate. This fits in the forward part of the head where the mcpcb used to sit. The TP5000, 2 amp charger board is secured to the other side with arctic alumina. The ones I have came with a small finned aluminum heat sink glued to the underside of the board. I filed off the fins and glued the flat remant to the copper plate. That provides spacing away from the copper for the electrical connections to clear. But to be certain I also insulated the copper plate with kapton tape.

Plate fitted inside head

Jar trial fitted using a center bolt; 6-32.

The aluminum plate to be mounted for double duty as a heat sink and a mounting point for a hanger.

More pictures coming….

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Very nice Don. Looking forward to the update with the charging port. Smile
How does one drill holes in jars?

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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I filed out a recess for the micro usb port for the charger. A little rough. I painted the surface with flat black auto paint. The port is weather resistant from the application of silicone sealant around it inside the head.

The usb board prior to sealant being applied

The usb board mounts to a small wood block (where would my lights be without some wood!!) glued to the inside of the head.

I used a 46 mm SRK driver board to support the new driver. The original from this light got lost someplace around here during the wait to finish. Mtnelectronics has these old ones on a $2 clearance. I used some kapton tape to cover all the mount points on the other side of the board.

Yes those are some strange holes bored in the board. Explanation to come.

Those holes are to secure the board in the head. Rather than just rely on a friction fit I wanted machine screws. In part that was because of an error on my part as well as I knew this would go together and be taken apart a few times. I used nylon screws and they are well recessed to avoid cell top interference.

I used a 17mm driver from Lexel. It has Narsil, 2 × 7135 and no FET. I added the kapton tape to the main board after these pictures were taken. Inside the head you can just see one of the two threaded sleeves I epoxied in place for mounting the driver board and the copper front plate to.

A shot of the front plate with a threaded mount visible inside.

The other side of the copper plate with the TP5000 charger board. I mounted the charge indicator led through the copperplate. It is visible inside the lamp house on top. I was going to insert it through the side wall of the body but changed my mind as the wiring was becoming crowded.

Another shot of the driver end…

The odd shaped cut out in the copper plate is to provide ample space for threading the wires to the led.

A closeup of the head hanger. I mounted the aluminum disc in the drill press chuck after tapping the center hole 1/4×20. Then spun it and used a file to smooth, finishing with a couple of sandpaper grades. I used a coupling nut, drilled a hole sideways and added a split ring.

I made a maddening error. After checking and double checking the 2 color, 3 lead, indicator led connections for the charger I still managed to mess up. The convention with these boards is to use the red color/led to indicate a charge in process and then the blue to indicate charge completion. I got the leads reversed. Facepalm I don’t know if I will tear down and switch the leads or not. For now I am contenting myself with the rationale that the Blue light indicates “Being charged” and the Red light indicating the light is “Ready to use”. Facepalm Of course that is the opposite of the other lights I have with chargers built in. We’ll see how that goes. Blushing

Here it is in full charge mode…

Anyhow it was fun and I thought I’d show this.

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MRsDNF wrote:
Very nice Don. Looking forward to the update with the charging port. Smile How does one drill holes in jars?

Easy when it is PET. That’s the same plastic used for soda bottles and a myriad of other products. Doesn’t crack or break easily.

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There is a rubber o-ring that fits inside the head under the jar bottom. Tightening the screw in the jar bottom compresses it against a slight ledge inside the head.

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Here I was being a smart arse with the charging comment and ten minutes later you post a picture up. Blushing
You are good Don.
Love the style and your imagination on this build and to top it off it works. You know the wiring the wrong way round on the charge light will eat you up. Smile
I’m going now. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Thanks for the comments. I have some spare parts; phosphor domes, royal blue emitters, charger boards, micro usb ports, jars, SRK driver board, a Lexel Narsil driver that doesn’t have a home yet as well as a second aluminum scrap disc… just about everything but another SRK. I might have to get another for a second “improved” version. Facepalm If I had a lathe I’d turn a one piece aluminum cap.

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Nice version! The use of remote phosfor should give the lantern a very smooth output! Thanks for the detailed posting.

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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Cool Thumbs Up
I warned you about those 3 pin LED’s Big Smile

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CRX wrote:
Cool Thumbs Up I warned you about those 3 pin LED’s Big Smile

Yes, you did!

I’m thinking of getting some red/green ones I found on ebay if I’m going to go to the trouble of changing it. Red = charging, green = OK to go. And then maybe an indicator led (I have assorted colors) like the switch led on the Q8, but inside, through the copper plate, like the charge led.

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Should be nice Thumbs Up

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Awesome job on this! LOL

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Thanks Den. I am quite happy with it. Thank you very much for the idea. As yours has impressed people you know and camp with mine has done the same here. I bought one of the soft pouches from Banggood that some have bought for their Q8. This fits nicely. Now I have three, each a different color to differentiate between the lights they are used with.

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Thanks for the update Don. I really love these types of builds not only to see the skills members here have but for motivation as well. I wish there was a few extra hours in the day. Beer

So the book case is finished? FacepalmSilly

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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MRsDNF wrote:
Thanks for the update Don. I really love these types of builds not only to see the skills members here have but for motivation as well. I wish there was a few extra hours in the day. Beer

So the book case is finished? FacepalmSilly

For the time being, which means the next few days before Christmas, I am done with the bookcases. I glued the lattices into the frames a day or so ago. (not the highest quality images, but they convey the idea.)

I put the final clear coat on the doors Monday. (Images above are the backside of the doors; image below shows the front side)

Next is to take them up to our sons place for Christmas. There we will affix the shoji lamintated paper to the backside with double stick tape and then insert them into the case fronts.

Finally we need to install the led strip lighting inside the case, behind the front lipo on each shelf. That’ll take some soldering / wiring.

Then that project is done. More waiting in the wings.

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That is a real work of art work just in the latices. The cutting out and assembly must take hours. Thanks for the update pictures. SmileBeer

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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The sticks that make the lattice are called kumikos. The kumiko were table saw ripped to be 3/8” x 1/2” with a blade that leaves an almost perfectly smooth edge. The edge is fine enough that when gluing one ripped piece to another the joint is perfect after being clamped. But the surface has small arcs that show when you look closely; so no good for a surface that is to be stained/finished. A little 220 sandpaper action is needed. The size was actually slightly larger than 3/8 × 1/2.

There was some trial and error to begin with to get the correct depth of cut to make the overlap level.

Then they were gang stacked and clamped down to the work table. I made a jig that fit over the group and could be clamped down. The router with a 3/8” straight cut bit then cut the half laps in one router move, left to right. Re-position the jig and repeat, repeat, repeat…. I made spare kumikos.

Then the kumikos were laid out and joint by joint sanded to make a nice fit. Everything was labeled and marked to keep the kumikos in sets to ensure a good fit after the hand fitting. An early experiment showed there was sliht variance in widths after ripping the sticks. The variance is very small, not enough to bother regular joints in the cabinet cases, but for the kumiko overlaps I wanted better. Traditional shoji doors are all hand cut with those cool Japanese hand saws.

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You are a true craftsman Don with far more patience than I.Thanks again for the pictures as they explain what your saying so I can understand it.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Previous testing proved that Loctite gel type CA made a good enough bond on wood that was stained but not clear coated. So I used the gel CA on the kumiko overlaps and spring clamped each for 30 minutes. (The kumiko were stained before assembly into a lattice. Those fit fairly tight anyways. The CA was insurance and made it easier to handle the lattices without fear of one or more lap joints coming apart during handling.

The slots where the kumiko fit into the perimeter frames were also a good fit but there I used “hide” glue. The kumiko end surface was kept free of stain by sticky tape (very sticky!). The slots in the frame were kept free of stain by careful application. Hide glue has a long open working time and when clamped it sets strong. So the lattice should stay in place. It is not waterproof so we might have a problem if the fire suppression sprinklers activate. Thumbs Up

Clear coat was 3 applications with the spray gun. I think about 80% of the clear coat ended up on the floor.

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Would hide glue work on me when the good wife is looking for me? Facepalm

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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It’s never helped me be invisible. Facepalm Depending on why she’s looking for you, when found you may be missing a piece of your own hide. Wink

(animal hides are the source. Fish have also been used for making glue; isinglass.) Old fashioned hide glue needs to be heated; glue flakes are dissolved in water. I use a modern liquid version, no heating required, but it seems to work as good.

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Bookshelving! Done! Pictured with one door slid open. Doors slide in pairs; 2 on left half and 2 on right half.

Shoji screen paper installed. LED strip lighting cut, soldered, powered, etc. Strip of led’s behind the front lip of every shelf. Waviness is due to slight waviness of the paper. It is what it is. Smile 2700 K.

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Did you say free shipping to my house? Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Ah, shipping was free to Los Alamos, NM but there would be a surcharge for Down Under. Wink