LG high CRI LED E2L flashlight-maybe this LED is unknow to everyone..

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MascaratumB
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korpzgrinda wrote:
Hey Lightbringer, I have seen enough of your comments to know that you have experience with TIR lenses. May I ask, what kind of TIR are you using on your 4C S2+? Where could I find some that would fit S2+? I know Simon has them, but I am looking for more of a sample pack to try the different angles, instead of buying 5 of the same. Do you know if the XML type optic will fit over a XPL HI? Thanks

OP, sorry if this is too off-topic.

[Still in the off-topic, shortly, and sorry to respond here too: you can ask Simon to send different lenses on the same package, instead 5 of the same kind.
The TIR lenses for XML2 fit the XPL-HI (I tried in the S2+ Desert Tan with XPL-HI) and used the TIR, without the plastic holder, with the AR coated glass lens above it and with sealing o-ring as well. The beam produced with “pebbled” (hive) lenses are much similar bewteen XPL-HI and XML2 – both are floody – but the XPL-HI seems to have a more bright centre and smaller overall angle in outside diameter. The other lenses, tend to reflect the type of LED that it has below, being narrower with the XPL-HI and floodier with the XML2.]
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I’d also like to thanks Jaxman for bringing these LEDs to our attention. Too bad they weren’t any good, but like others, I’m happy that we got the chance to check them out.

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Hey, anyone have one of these lights yet? Are they glued shut?

I’m tempted to pull the trigger on one, but worst case, I’d just swap emitter boards (no reflowing). As long as I can, that is.

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maukka wrote:
I’d also like to thanks Jaxman for bringing these LEDs to our attention. Too bad they weren’t any good, but like others, I’m happy that we got the chance to check them out.

Is the 4000K version that horrible? The beamshot on ali makes it look almost rosy compared to the 5000K.

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I asked no glue. But they didn’t even put thermal paste between the MCPCB and shelf…

Doesn’t really matter in this case, but still.

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Lightbringer wrote:
Is the 4000K version that horrible? The beamshot on ali makes it look almost rosy compared to the 5000K.

Jaxman only sells the 5000K version so I can’t tell.

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maukka wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Is the 4000K version that horrible? The beamshot on ali makes it look almost rosy compared to the 5000K.

Jaxman only sells the 5000K version so I can’t tell.

Yeah, I didn’t look hard enough. Big Smile

I saw the comparison pix, thought that in the 2nd pic the 2 ideographs were just Chinese for “LG”. Big Smile

Only when I tried the option as if to order it (to see if the prices were the same for 4000K and 5000K), that only 5000K was available.

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Lightbringer wrote:
maukka wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Is the 4000K version that horrible? The beamshot on ali makes it look almost rosy compared to the 5000K.

Jaxman only sells the 5000K version so I can’t tell.

Yeah, I didn’t look hard enough. Big Smile

I saw the comparison pix, thought that in the 2nd pic the 2 ideographs were just Chinese for “LG”. Big Smile

Only when I tried the option as if to order it (to see if the prices were the same for 4000K and 5000K), that only 5000K was available.


The LED on the right is identified as being a Nichia in other advertising photos.

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Tjohn wrote:
The LED on the right is identified as being a Nichia in other advertising photos.

Ah.

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No thermal compound? That’s not good, especially when JAXMAN has a picture on their website showing that they apply (too much of) it.

That is very strange. I have a JAXMAN E2L host that I think is top notch, so I’m not trying to bash them. I’m just dumbfounded.

Maybe JAXMAN considers this as “glue” and since we requested that they not glue their flashlights, they decided not to apply this “heat conduction glue”?

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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I prefer that there is nothing in there

The glue that uses JAXMAN is ceramic type
After curing, there is no way to remove it if is not with a chisel or an emery stone

Sorry for my bad English

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Hey, well crap, i bought 2 triple boards of these…
Not in yet…
In fact, waiting for many orders a.t.m., as if the postal gods are not on my side lately…

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

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Jerommel wrote:
Hey, well crap, i bought 2 triple boards of these…
Not in yet…
In fact, waiting for many orders a.t.m., as if the postal gods are not on my side lately…

Same here, packages are not arriving at all Sad maybe Chinese holidays consequences ?

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maukka wrote:
I think it’s fair to say that this is the most disgusting LED in a flashlight I’ve seen… (ok, maybe an exaggeration).

Just look at the green/yellow tint, which varies all over the place in the beam.

[images in original post ]

Urgh. I officially withdraw any interest in lights with those LEDs.

It really goes to show how much R&D effort Nichia must have put in to create their 219A/B/C LEDs, though.

Thank you for the test data, maukka. It’s much appreciated.

I’d also like to join previous posters on this thread and add my appreciation to Jaxman for giving us a chance to find out about this new LED. No luck this time, but he didn’t know that beforehand. If things had turned out differently, he might have been handing us the next big step in high CRI lights…

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Man, it’s unfortunate that I bought a triple mcpcb with this led before the tests showed up

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Man, it’s unfortunate that I bought a triple mcpcb with this led before the tests showed up

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You say that twice, i ordered twice the triple board… Facepalm

I think it’s very nice of most of you to thank Jaxman for the opportunity, but i feel quite disappointed…
Jaxman has a reputation of good tints, which may be easy when you use Nichia LEDs.
But i didn’t expect this LG LED, when it’s an ugly tint, to be sold by Jaxman.
So i expected a nice LED, not a greenish tinted one.

But it is what it is, can’t win ‘em all…
I don’t blame Jaxman, but i just expected better.

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

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For photography, the LG H35F0 could perform quite well considering its overall score to TM-30-15 standard despite its Duv score.
2 LG coupled in a quad with 2 nichia 219C 5000K could be nice as they are quite complementary for better colors fidelity. The nichia lacks of blue fidelity compared to the LG, and this last one lacks of red fidelity.

MF-01’s Nichia:

E2L’s LG:

Not too shabby.

EDIT : both superposed in Gimp to show the highest value for each 99 samples, could be different in reality, but the Rf score (average) should be higher than the bar on the graph :

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So what you all is saying indirectly is that jaxman photoshopped the reference photo (the one with the LG led and the Nichia led side by side) or used a bad camera or whatever that makes the photo not describe what the light of that led looked like?

Or

You never looked at the photo and now when you got and see how it performs you get disappointed?

Or am I missing something here?

Next time someone tries to introduce a new led you all should ask for some more beamshots on different things or something..

.

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Tally-ho wrote:
2 LG coupled in a quad with 2 nichia 219C 5000K could be nice as they are quite complementary for better colors fidelity. The nichia lacks of blue fidelity compared to the LG, and this last one lacks of red fidelity.

Don’t recall the ratings, but you’d need to make sure the Vf for the 2 types is a nearly exact match, else the 2 with the lower Vf will be almost fully on and the 2 with the higher Vf will be pretty much off (applied voltage below Vγ).

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Unless you run them in series. That reason is why most of my lights going forward will be boost driver based.

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If LEDs wired in parallel, but I was thinking of this by wiring them up in series with a boost driver…but really don’t know as I didn’t test this yet.

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You are correct Tally-Ho, they would work well in series, I have a few lights now with highly mixed Vf emitters in series, and I really like the freedom to mix tints however I see fit without worrying about mixing voltages too.

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EagleShield wrote:
So what you all is saying indirectly is that jaxman photoshopped the reference photo (the one with the LG led and the Nichia led side by side) or used a bad camera or whatever that makes the photo not describe what the light of that led looked like?

Or

You never looked at the photo and now when you got and see how it performs you get disappointed?

Or am I missing something here?

Next time someone tries to introduce a new led you all should ask for some more beamshots on different things or something..

.


Either way, i expected it to be a (more or less) safe bet, and maybe not as nice as Nichia, but good none the less.
I’m sure others feel the same disappointment.
It would have been great to have a high power high CRI LED, for applications where the Nichia 219 is just a bit too low power (and gets too hot).

O well…

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5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

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Tally-ho wrote:
If LEDs wired in parallel, but I was thinking of this by wiring them up in series with a boost driver…but really don’t know as I didn’t test this yet.

I did a voltage+output test on this LG H35F0 from Jaxman but am slow in posting it, but looking at the numbers: when voltage is compared to the 219C: up to and around 3A it is almost identical (3.27V) and when current goes further up the H35F0 curve is a bit steeper than the 219C curve.

So also when connected in parallel they should go together fairly well.

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Jerommel wrote:
Either way, i expected it to be a (more or less) safe bet, and maybe not as nice as Nichia, but good none the less.
I’m sure others feel the same disappointment.

Jaxman should start to sell minus green filters Big Smile

Jensen567 wrote:
You are correct Tally-Ho, they would work well in series, I have a few lights now with highly mixed Vf emitters in series, and I really like the freedom to mix tints however I see fit without worrying about mixing voltages too.

I wouldn’t have thought to this by myself if I hadn’t seen people mentionning and doing this on BLF. I was checking my bookmarks a few minutes ago and saw that you were the one I seen doing this recently in Clemence’s thread. Sorry I didn’t remember that it was you Facepalm Thanks a lot for the idea. Wink

djozz wrote:
So also when connected in parallel they should go together fairly well.

Thanks for the info djozz. It’s always nice to learn something from one of my BLF’s heroes.
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Tally-ho wrote:
Jaxman should start to sell minus green filters Big Smile

That wouldn’t help with the big tint shift in the beam though.

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maukka wrote:
Tally-ho wrote:
Jaxman should start to sell minus green filters Big Smile

That wouldn’t help with the big tint shift in the beam though.


I’m going to try a mix with 90CRI 4000K XP-L2’s, or XP-G3’s, they have sort of the opposite: blue-ish hotspot with yellow corona. And as a third led a warm Nichia, for some red in the beam.
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Found this pdf.
Link: http://www.prognostics.umd.edu/calcepapers/Light_emitting_diode_reliability_review.pdf

The ways to drive the current to light up LEDs are divided into
pulsed width modulation (PWM) dimming and analog dimming
(amplitude dimming) [49]. Analog dimming involves changing
the constant current through the LED by adjusting the sense volt-
age. Analog dimming does not generate additional switching noise
in the LED lighting system and has higher efficacy as current levels
decrease.

*The dominant wavelength varies with LED current due to
band filling and the quantum-confined Stark effect (QCSE), so some
color shift is to be expected when using analog dimming.*

On the other hand, PWM dimming involves a desired LED current and can turn the LED on and off at speeds faster than the human eye can detect. The color of LEDs can be controlled by using PWM dim- ming if the junction temperature is controlled, since the dominant wavelength changes due to the junction temperature. The input supply needs to be filtered properly to accommodate high input current transients. The efficiency of PWM dimming is lower than that of analog dimming [49]. PWM dimming technology is catego- rized into enable dimming, series dimming, and shunt dimming. Enable dimming produces PWM current by turning on and off the current. Enable dimming is easy to implement, but typically shows slow current transitions. Series dimming uses the series field effect transistor (FET) to generate PWM current with current transition. Output voltage can overshoot when using series dim- ming. Shunt dimming utilizes shunt FET to generate the PWM sig- nal with super-fast current transitions. The drawback of shunt dimming is that power is dissipated in the shunt FET. If it is neces- sary to drive different types of LEDs having different forward volt- ages, multi-boost or buck current mode control is used due to the benefit of independent multiple power stages. PWM dimming con- trol is good for driving uniform LEDs with the same color and for- ward voltages [48]. Although, the reliability and performance of these control circuits are critical to the success of LED lighting sys- tems, this paper covers only LED packages.

.

Maybe that’s why it looks green?
I read in the dedoom sst-40 thread (I think) and someone used 2 different drivers and one of the driver made the light looking really green if i remember correctly.

Edit: Can’t seem to get bold text working..

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Using a constant current power supply improves the tint, but only marginally. It is still duv 0.0100 so very green.

Btw, here’s the LG and a Nichia SW40 combined. Nichia output a bit higher and the LG just supports it. At similar levels the beam is too green and CRI is much worse than with just the Nichia.

Here’s only the Nichia. No big change in overall indexes except that R9 is better without the LG and some turquoise and blues are a bit better with. I see no practical reason to combine them.

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