Test/review of DMM Aneng AN860B+

DMM Aneng AN860B+







This is a cheap DMM with all common function.







It included the DMM, a pair of probes and a manual (Where some specifications was missing).









The probes has removable tip covers.







The probes are rated for 10A, I would not trust that but use some more solid wire for 20A range.









The thermocoupler is a cheap construction rated for max. 400° 0.75% ±2.5°±C













When using the tilting bale the meter is nearly stable enough to turn the switch and push the buttons (If placed on a non-slip surface it will probably be stable enough).







Meter without rubber sleeve, battery can be replaced without removing this sleeve.











Display







The above picture shows all the segments on the display.

Notice how u and m symbols are at multiple locations, making it possible to show them just before the unit.







Typical display during usage, it will show the number and what measurement is selected.







Functions







Buttons:

  • Range: Will disable auto range and change range, hold down to activate auto range.

  • Rel: Shows values relative to current value, will also select manual range. Press again to disable.

  • Max/min: Starts recording maximum and minimum value, press to select between max/min.

  • Hz % (Blue): Shows frequency and duty cycle in AC ranges.

  • Select (Yellow): Select the ranges printed with yellow and between C°/F°

  • Hold: Freezes the display, hold down for backlight.


Rotary switch:
  • Off: Meter is turned off

  • VAC: Show AC voltage, using the blue button frequency and duty cycle can be selected.

  • VDC: Show DC voltage.

  • mV: Show DC or AC mV. In AC the blue button will show frequency and duty cycle.

  • ohm: Resistance, continuity, diode

  • Capacitance: Capacitor.

  • A: Current AC and DC. In AC the blue button will show frequency and duty cycle.

  • mA: Current AC and DC. In AC the blue button will show frequency and duty cycle. Watch out for burden voltage.

  • uA: Current AC and DC. In AC the blue button will show frequency and duty cycle.

  • °C/°F: Temperature.



Input


  • 20A: High current, it can only withstand 10+ ampere for a short time (Fuse is 10A).

  • mAuA: The lower current ranges, the selector switch will change between two different shunts (Fuse is 600mA).

  • CON: The common terminal for all ranges.

  • xxx: All other ranges.


The terminals are a bit loose in the mounting due to the way they are made. My Keysight probes are very loose and cannot be fully pushed down (Standard banana plugs will fit). Opening up the meter and giving the terminals a squeeze may fix it.



Measurements
  • Volt and frequency

    • At 10mVrms input frequency range is from 1Hz to 600kHz

    • At 1Vrms input frequency range can be stretched to 8MHz

    • Max/min needs about 340ms to capture a voltage.

    • AC volt can measure up to about 2kHz (RMS will not work at the frequency).

    • Frequency counter and duty cycle can only be selected in AC ranges.

    • Input impedance is 11.5Mohm on DC and AC

    • mV range is high impedance for DC and 10Mohm for AC

  • Current

    • On the 6000uA & 600mA range there is an audible alarm when going above range.

    • 20A range will give audible alarm at 10A after some time and immediately at 20A.

    • Frequency counter and duty cycle can only be selected in AC ranges.

  • Ohm, Continuity, diode and capacity

    • Ohm is 1V open and 0.39mA shorted

    • Continuity is fast (About 20ms).

    • Continuity beeps when resistance is below 50ohm.

    • Continuity is 1V open and 0.39mA shorted

    • Diode range uses 3.2V, max. display is 3V at 0.1mA, max. current is 1.7mA shorted

    • 70000uF takes about 8 seconds to measure.

  • Miscellaneous

    • There is no temperature compensation near the connector

    • Current consumption of meter is 1.6mA (7.5mA with backlight)

    • Meter works down to 2.2V where it turns off, battery symbol show at 2.4V.

    • Reading will change slightly with battery voltage: 5 count on a 5V reading from 3V to 2.4V.

    • Backlight only works down to about 2.6V where it is fairly dim.

    • The meter usual need a couple of display update to reach the final value.

    • Viewing angle is good, except from the top.

    • Display updates around 3 times/sec

    • Backlight will automatic turn off in about 15 seconds.

    • Will automatic turn power off in about 15 minutes.

    • Standard probes cannot be pushed fully down are very loose.

    • Weight is 366g without accessories, but with rubber sleeve and batteries.

    • Size is 180 x 89 x 44mm with rubber sleeve.

  • Probes

    • Probe resistance 59mOhm for one.

    • Probe wire is soft and 65cm long.




A look at the capacity measurement waveform.





Tear down



Four screws and the back could be removed.



6 more screws for the front.



There is not much inside this meter. The main chip (IC2) is under the black blob, the calibration and function memory is a EEPROM (IC1:24C01). The buzzer (BZZP1) needs a transistor (Q2), same with the backlight (Q1).
There is a long voltage divider chain (R26, R27, R28, R29, R30, R35, R36) of 7 1.5Mohm resistors, this goes directly into the main chip. There is also the test current output (Used in ohm and capacity), this has a PTC (PTC1) and two transistors as clamp (Q3, Q4).
There is a 600mA glass fuse (F2) and two resistors for the uA (R23: 99ohm) and mA (R24: 1ohm) range and 5 diodes (D2, D3, D4, D5, D6) as protection. The 20A ranges has a 10A fuse (F1) and a wire resistor.
Notice the solder blop between tracks just above the battery terminal.







This side of the circuit board only has the switches and the backlight. The display is connected with a zebra stip.



Conclusion

The meter is easily within the specified tolerances and it has lot of functions and ranges, but the CAT rating is fake.
Glass fuses cannot break high currents at high voltage, it requires ceramic fuses with sand inside. The protection on the ohm/capacity range do not look very robust, i.e. the meter may not survive high voltage on these ranges.
The 6000 count gives a good resolution at 4V and 5V, this can be useful.
Watch out for burden voltage in the 6mA and 600mA range, it can be significant.

I will call it acceptable DMM for hobby use (I am not happy about the bad fit of my other probes), but keep it away from anything with mains voltage and lots of amps.



Notes

This meter exist with many different names on it and small variations in functions.

How do I review a DMM
More DMM reviews

My review contents are not completely final yet, I just added one more test to it: Capture speed of max/min and Peak function (I have also updated the Fluke 17B+ with that measurement).
It is, of course, possible to ask for review of specific meters (Reviews of UT139C and AM-510-EU are nearly ready).

Thank you for doing these reviews, HKJ. I’m in the market for something a little better than my current Crenova meter, so I’ve been following along as you publish them.

thank you for the review. This is one of the DMMs I was considering

I have both cheaper and more expensive DMM’s planned and I may use these reviews as an excuse to get one high-end handheld DMM more.

could you do a review about aneng a8008, Dave from Eevblog already did it and he was quite pleased about it

HKJ, do you take DMM review requests?

I recently came into possession of Southwire 16040T:
http://www.southwiretools.com/tools/tools/16040T

It looks fairly basic, but it claims CAT lll 600V and it has bluetooh, thus allowing you to log data using a smart device, which is somewhat unique in this price range ($40). Voltage accuracy seems pretty good, at least according to my non-industrial voltage reference boards.

I haven’t seen any professional reviews of Southwire DMMs, so I don’t know how they stack up against others. Not sure if their products are easily available outside of North America…

They have more fancy DMMs as well, including this one with hi-res color display:
http://www.southwiretools.com/tools/tools/15190T

But I think you could almost buy a comparable Fluke at this price…

BTW, I don’t work for Southwire and am not associated with them in any way.

I do and I have ordered the 16040T.

Color display will usual mean a battery pack and not loose cells, i.e. when the pack is worn down in some years (5 - 10) you can probably not get a replacement. For me that is an issue, I expect my high end lab test equipment to last just about forever.

Thanks! You’re awesome.

Just heads-up, in case anyone is considering it, their mobile app for Android is pretty basic and I’ve noticed a couple of bugs already. It is version 1.0 though, so hopefully over time they’ll make it better. I don’t know if there are any third party apps that could communicate with this DMM.

A review request: The Keysight U1191A DMM/Clamp Meter looks interesting, and relatively inexpensive ($102 USD).

http://www.keysight.com/en/pd-2043701-pn-U1191A/handheld-clamp-meter?nid=–34618.991694&cc=US&lc=eng

At nearly the same price, Keysight has a basic handheld DMM, the U1231A

I do not really know about the U1191A as I already have the U1194A, but I was not thinking about reviewing it, maybe I have to reconsider that.
The U1231A may be interesting, or is the U1233A more interesting, the specifications are the same, but 33 has more ranges and functions.
U1232A adds current
U1233A adds current, temperature and NCV

I have not checked the prices on the different models.

One thing I did not initially notice about the U1191A clamp meter is that it does not measure DC current, only AC current. That makes it less interesting.

The U1233A looks more interesting than the U1231A. But the price is about 70% higher.

I have a Fluke 115 DMM, and the only thing I miss on it is capability for doing temperature measurements.

The U1194A includes DC and is much more expensive.

But current and temperature are som very useful functions.
The Low-Z function is very nice if you sometimes work with mains installations.

Yes, I agree. The U1231A (and 32A) can measure temperature, but it requires the purchase of an expensive “temperature module”, but the U1233A requires only a $20 thermocouple probe and adapter.

A comparison chart of these 3 DMMs:

I expect a $1 thermocoupler will work.

Now I have spent money on it (It looks like it might end up in my bag when I have to help people).
I am getting a good list of mid-range DMM and I also have more cheap DMM’s in queue. I have written more than 10 reviews now, the unpublished ones only need a little more work before I can publish them, but I do not plan on publishing more than 1 or 2 each month.

Are you saying that you just bought another hand held DMM? Which one?

Yes, the U1233A (I only have about 20, I believe).

:smiley: I only have 3 hand held meters:

Fluke 115 DMM

Fluke 365 Clamp Meter

Beckman DM45.

I bought the Beckman new about 30 years ago. I am surprised it still works. Do you think it is worth spending money to send it out for calibration?

No, it is way to expensive compared to a new meter. Compare you meters and if they show about the same value they are fine. You can also get fairly cheap references on ebay that can be used for a sanity check.

I have shown a few of my DMM’s here: My lab setup
I will guess I have about 10 very good meters, the rest is “cheap” meters I have bough to play with and review.