Haikelite HT35 vs Brinyte b158 vs Brinyte b158+fet beams

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vidramon
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Haikelite HT35 vs Brinyte b158 vs Brinyte b158+fet beams

First of all I need little help here. I received mine sample from Banggood and lens was broken in transport or it was sended broken I don’t know :

Now this part that was broken after I put back bezel was drop off and now I have truncated glass Crying I try to contact Banggood on email but no response from them. So does they have some profile for this kind of stuff here that I can ask for help, as it does GB have CSgearbest and Gina ?

Second part is thing that I ask before ordering but no one answer so beam HT35 vs b158 stock vs b158 fet, so maybe will help to someone to decide for this light or not, I will not express my opinion.

Distance just over 200m.

 

Distance just over 300m to the house.

Control pic.

 

Flood in the garden.

 

Beam close to the next house 15m distance.

 

During shots moon was full and very shine.

The Miller
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Dang that lens does not look pretty Sad
Better wait till after the 8th then sure they respond to you.

I do like that die projection.

Agro
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BG’s CS department is working already, I got communication from them yesterday and today. Thought they may be somewhat overloaded and respond slower than usual.

vidramon
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They respond to me, and they told that will send a replacement lens for the light.
+1 for BG

This break up totally.

Canyac
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Very nice pictures, i guess the b158 is a must-buy for me. That looks really nice Smile

vidramon
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B158 is not must-buy it is impossibly that someone who loves flashlights don’t have that light Big Smile

If you want to buy it, you can found coupons here to lover the price ! And yes get b158b version since it is better currently.

BobbyMK
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Cool shoots Big Smile The HT35 in my opinion is very under performing in stock form, it is really shame to see such big aspheric light with kinda bad throw performance, BUT .. with a few cheap mods you can double the cd of the light.

Anyways be careful when installing the new lens back, do not over tighten the bezel, the bottom part of the lens sits on a nice tick o-ring as you can see but on the top side of the lens the bezel is pushing hard over the glass and i think that is what caused the lens to break in the first place, mine came perfectly fine from the factory but unfortunately i managed to crack it, nothing serious it was very little piece but it happened.

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

vidramon
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BobbyMK wrote:
Cool shoots Big SmileThe HT35 in my opinion is very under performing in stock form, it is really shame to see such big aspheric light with kinda bad throw performance, BUT .. with a few cheap mods you can double the cd of the light.

Anyways be careful when installing the new lens back, do not over tighten the bezel, the bottom part of the lens sits on a nice tick o-ring as you can see but on the top side of the lens the bezel is pushing hard over the glass and i think that is what caused the lens to break in the first place, mine came perfectly fine from the factory but unfortunately i managed to crack it, nothing serious it was very little piece but it happened.

100% agree.

Yes, I see that and know that, but mine is arrive broken, sincerely I don’t have intent to remove a lens or anything since I will not do review on it. But replacement is on its way, that is important Party

luminarium iaculator
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All that talk once more confirms that acrylic(plastic) lenses is far superior to any commercial flashlight glass lenses.

I also talked to our member The_Driver claiming that because acrylic seems to have greater light transmittance and not only that.., They are lighter, more shock and pressure proof so no way acrylic will break like glass lenses under hard press of aluminum bezel or on classic drop to concrete test. For glass that is around 80% of chance that they will break and for acrylic just 20% of chance that they will be scratched Smile

So only manufacturer that really managed to make and realised that acrylic lenses are better in lets say larger 50mm category is Brinyte. But why don’t they sell bigger versions (read: upgradable larger heads for B158)? That is real mystery… Easy money for them just with upgrades.

But they are still not my favorite 50mm aspherics…

I will say that there is still a lot of place for improvement of B158B like reverse clicky switch, better and easy up gradable pill which will allow easy swap and easy soldering of 17mm drivers, I would also add double o ring at the bottom of head part(it is not so water resistant as you think guys, it leaks at that single bottom oring), and I don’t like twisting tail to zoom in hunting configuration cause I loose twist to turn silent switch mode(I can’t lock out – lock in the switch without messing up the zoom function).

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

vidramon
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Yes, plastic are better in every way I agree.

Oh, Brinyte, I talk to them many times, trying to convince them to just fix problems that b158 light have like are floating driver in the pill, that use thermal paste instead thermal adhesive glue, that they do not use ring to solder a driver to the pill.. But they will not listen, I really do not understand them, they can fix that problems so light can be great just with little upgrades, but I saw that it’s an impossible missionso I gave up.

Also I speak with upgrade of b158 with new drivers and leds, but without success. You give a great idea same light just bigger head and maybe some 20mm driver for XHP35 HI or XHP70 etc.

You say I don’t like twisting tail to zoom in hunting configuration, but which is the second choice ? Sliding ?
Hmm, when the rifle fires that sliding zooms will completely mess up, and twisting remains in position of course.
Another issue that I meet with b158 is with strong riffles, after shoot that powerful yank that happens, change mode on the light, don’t know how to solve this maybe other lights behave the same.

luminarium iaculator
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Head twisting in UF 1503 is my choice for 50mm aspherics… It is not performer like B158 but with proper QC of lenses(they do QC for me in factory and I pay that a little extra) has very good results with better tint and larger beam projection. So let say same configuration B158 330kcd vs 240kcd of 1503 light but much more hunter and modder friendly light had made my choice obvious.

But I also can’t convince them to change the lenses to acrylic ones cause they need to re design light in order to function properly. But they seem to be aware of that so maybe we can expect something similar in future design of UF flashlights.

Sliding would work for smaller aspherics with light heads with no problem… But we all want decent performance and small head does not fit into that.

It is easy to resolve recoil changing mode problem. Just bypass lower driver spring with lets say 22 awg wire, and then use 18awg for switch spring(rotate it a little inside that B158 long spring like a snake and then drill through brass cap and solder everything).
What will happen? Upper spring will become very stiff and it will start pushing battery very hard to bottom spring making battery contact very firm and solid so even tank recoil should not change modes.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

vidramon
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I hear about that UF zooming lights but newer own any of it, I see that there are too many versions like 1503, 1505, 1405 etc.
I’m really interested in 18650 body with HI V3 if it is exist to buy somewhere to compare with brinyte that I have, so if you know that is on sale somewhere please share link pm, or here, it’s not important is it head or tail twisting.

I understand that they will have additional cost to correct some things to be better, it is not problem for light to be a little more expensive if it will be better, I guarantee that most people will give couple of bucks more for upgraded light instead of stock with problems, but they can’t understand that.

luminarium iaculator wrote:
It is easy to resolve recoil changing mode problem. Just bypass lower driver spring with lets say 22 awg wire, and then use 18awg for switch spring(rotate it a little inside that B158 long spring like a snake and then drill through brass cap and solder everything).

I currently have only 24awg, but I will get the rest. Driver spring is clear, but tail not. Not clear ‘‘drill through brass cap’‘, why I need to drill, as far as I see it can be bypassed without drilling.

luminarium iaculator
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I order host versions and finish them myself(my driver,emitter, orings, switch etc).
So lights are made by me and I don’t think they have their HI V3 version or if they have it is even greater crab than B158 Smile

For B158B as I said better and more direct contact. You want to make it very stiff to eliminate recoil changing mode stuff. If you want hunting light than made it. If you don’t need it is really not important how it will be bypassed but still recommend something thicker than 24awg.

Modding is making something how you want it to be, not how it comes stock...

Old-Lumens

vidramon
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Good !
Here is another way without drilling : http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1084575#comment-1084575

I will definitely try as soon as I get thicker wire.

I need to ask you something about UF light, but I don’t like to spam here since it is not connected to topic, so I will send a PM.