What led chip is this?

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nvzn
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What led chip is this?

Hello, im sorry if my english that bad.
My cree LED broken after it lasted 2 year.
I want to find a replacement about this cree LED, but i dont know which model this thing.

Here is the pic :

It shows “CREE” And the bottom is “J”

I zoomed this to see it clearly.

EDIT update
Finally i found it’s product box. here’s some information :

LED HEADLIGHT SPOTLIGHT
Voltage :
10V-95V (electric cars)
10V-25V (Motorcycles)

I just tried measure the voltage from driver to it’s led, and the result is : 51.2V (i plugged this to my ebike, which its voltage also 51V)

EDIT 2
it’s LED power 10W.

Can u guys help me? Thanks!

Edited by: nvzn on 10/10/2017 - 11:30
bilakos10
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Well you need to post a picture of the emitter while turned off, so that we can at least take a look at the LED’s wires.

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L4M4
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If this is a 16mm Board, it seems to be a XM-L2 (or a faked one).

nvzn
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bilakos10 wrote:
Well you need to post a picture of the emitter while turned off, so that we can at least take a look at the LED’s wires.

Edit : here

djozz
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It looks like a Cree XP-G2 led.

nvzn
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L4M4 wrote:
If this is a 16mm Board, it seems to be a XM-L2 (or a faked one).

umm XM-L2 looks like this?

Quote:

The PCB looks different than mine. my led looks like a complete circle PCB.

here’s some more pics

emarkd
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PCB has nothing to do with it. You can put an XM-L2 on any board with a 5050 footprint and dedicated thermal pad. That said I concur with djozz, that looks more like the smaller XP-G2 to me, but its hard to be certain without a close-up detailed photo of the LED so we can see the structure better. Like I said, ignore the board and focus on the emitter.

nvzn
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emarkd wrote:
PCB has nothing to do with it. You can put an XM-L2 on any board with a 5050 footprint and dedicated thermal pad. That said I concur with djozz, that looks more like the smaller XP-G2 to me, but its hard to be certain without a close-up detailed photo of the LED so we can see the structure better. Like I said, ignore the board and focus on the emitter.

Ah right okay will going to take the close up photo. Will update later

nvzn
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emarkd wrote:
PCB has nothing to do with it. You can put an XM-L2 on any board with a 5050 footprint and dedicated thermal pad. That said I concur with djozz, that looks more like the smaller XP-G2 to me, but its hard to be certain without a close-up detailed photo of the LED so we can see the structure better. Like I said, ignore the board and focus on the emitter.

Here, its my best close up possible with my camera…

Jerommel
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Looks like a 16mm board with an XM-L2 on it.
Can’t tell if it’s a genuine XM-L2 or a fake one.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

nvzn
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Jerommel wrote:
Looks like a 16mm board with an XM-L2 on it. Can’t tell if it’s a genuine XM-L2 or a fake one.

Hmm..By the way do u know XM-L2 tech specs? I tried to search on Cree’s website and found nothing Sad

Edit : found it. http://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-discrete/xlamp-xm-l2

im posting extreme close up.

nvzn
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Questions here :

i just found XM-L2 techspec on this : http://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-discrete/xlamp-xm-l2

I’m new in LED technology, so i dont understand much.

I looked at this :

Im confused about led voltage. My led when i test it it’s 51V, but in tech spec said only 2.85V?

L4M4
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How do you test your LED?
I assume you made this thread because somethin isn’t working anymore.
If you have 51V on the LED, I would say that the driver is damaged (the thing inn the green wrapper).

What is this light out of?
it’s pretty dirty and the heatsinking is not really there, so maybe from a lawnmower or a work light?

Sledgestone
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Are you going to replace the LED or the light itself?

If the LED, just desolder the wires and put the board in a frying pan and remove the LED. This way we can see the footprint.

Jerommel
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nvzn wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
Looks like a 16mm board with an XM-L2 on it. Can’t tell if it’s a genuine XM-L2 or a fake one.

Hmm..By the way do u know XM-L2 tech specs? I tried to search on Cree’s website and found nothing Sad

Edit : found it. http://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-discrete/xlamp-xm-l2

im posting extreme close up.
!{width:90%}https://image.prntscr.com/image/e6p_GAaMTZS1yHuh-3LWYw.jpg!

Looks like a real one, with the orange peel surface on the corners.
I can’t see if it has the 3rd bond wire (very thin gold wire) next to the die (the square with the yellow phosphor on top).
If it doesn’t have that, it’s a fake.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

nvzn
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L4M4 wrote:
How do you test your LED?
I assume you made this thread because somethin isn’t working anymore.
If you have 51V on the LED, I would say that the driver is damaged (the thing inn the green wrapper).

What is this light out of?
it’s pretty dirty and the heatsinking is not really there, so maybe from a lawnmower or a work light?

it’s Bike LED light. It’s pretty dirty because dirts from outside slip inside in small gaps. The product desc said that it’s weatherproof, but still dirt can manage to get in.

It’s not working anymore. The heatsink is not there because i just disassemble it

This is how i test my LED :

turn on, then attach test lead to it’s cable, and the reading will come…The led itself not turn on.
by the way, when i tried smacking the led to table (The led and reflector, not whole component smacked), suddenly it went on. But it doesnt last, only 2 hours and it poof again, and i tried to slap again it wont light up.

Im quite new, and thats all i do for this Sad

The only mystery is, 51V. If its over voltage, why it light up for 2 hours??

Btw, what LED do when you overvoltage it? instant kill or secure shut down?

Lexel
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The driver probably wont blow up the bond wires, but at 51V the LED seems to be not connected on one side reading the open output voltage

In any case the LED is connected to the wires the voltage wont go above 4.3V then the bond wires would blow by overcurrent

I would recommend heating the MCPCB and add some solder

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L4M4
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51V on a bike lamp?

5.1V maybe – I assume you are using a batterypack or the dynamo of the bike?
Then 51V are just not possible.

Jerommel
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We need more info on the power supply and the driver.
The 51 Volts seems a little unlikely.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Lightbringer
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L4M4 wrote:
51V on a bike lamp?

5.1V maybe – I assume you are using a batterypack or the dynamo of the bike?
Then 51V are just not possible.

Ohhhh yes it is!

I’ve got an old-style generator, the kind that rubs against the sidewall of the rear tire to spin, and 2 hotwire bulbs, front and back. Voltage is load-regulated.

When one bulb blew, it took the other bulb with it in a very short time once the voltage increased a lot at now only half-load.

Open-circuited, moderate speed, voltage shot up to over 60V! In fact, knowing that let me figure out how/why the remaining bulb went pouf so soon after the first one.

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Sirius9
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L4M4 wrote:
51V on a bike lamp?

5.1V maybe – I assume you are using a batterypack or the dynamo of the bike?
Then 51V are just not possible.


Haha, that would be interesting to see, him taking a measurement while riding a bike Big Smile
But yeah, 51V…. I wouldnt say so.

 

Lightbringer
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Sirius9 wrote:
Haha, that would be interesting to see, him taking a measurement while riding a bike Big Smile

Flip the bike umop-apisdn so that it’s resting on the seat and handlebars (careful it doesn’t press down on the rear-brake lever). Spin the pedal to make the rear wheel spin.

We used to do that even as kids, “feeding” tree-bark into the spokes and calling it an “ice-cream machine”. (Hey, don’t ask me why…)

But that’s how I tested the generator to see what the voltage was. I was expecting (to feed 6V bulbs) anywhere from 3V at moderate speeds to 5V-6V at full speed (for full brightness). Uh, yeah, if the bulbs were in the circuit!

When my meter pegged (analogue) on the 20V range on my first turn of the pedal, I was shocked (only figuratively, ‘though…).

I clicked it up to 200V or whatever range was next. 60V!

 

Hey, don’t believe me. Get one, try it, and prove me wrong.

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Sirius9
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It was a joke, I have 2 bikes (city bike and mtb) and ride almost every day.
Also, modern bikes mostly have front hub generator (my city bike has this) and this one you have to spin quite fast to get it to 60V, like 40km/h fast…

 

Lightbringer
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Sirius9 wrote:
Also, modern bikes mostly have front hub generator (my city bike has this) and this one you have to spin quite fast to get it to 60V, like 40km/h fast…

Hmm, a hub generator? €xpen$ive?

Eep! Guess so. I’m seeing them for a hunnert bux or more!

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nvzn
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L4M4 wrote:
51V on a bike lamp?

5.1V maybe – I assume you are using a batterypack or the dynamo of the bike?
Then 51V are just not possible.

Some ppl questioning about 51V.

Here i will give all information :
Bike LED Product (i downloaded it from internet, it’s exact product like mine)

Power Supply : Lithium (LiFePo4) Battery, 48V system, MAX voltage : 54.4V (full charged) It’s Electric bicycle Battery.
The bike light itself can support input voltage from 10V-95V.

Here’s the driver’s pics :

The bike led has 2 function. Primary function is White beam led (which it dead right now) and 2 red flashing LEDs.

I tried to measure voltage to that red leds, the result is : 1.1V (if i didnt forgot, but im sure it’s around 1V)

Now i will give a video to make it clear about 51V : (its 52V now because i charge my battery before)

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Of course a LED can run at 51V – with the proper series resistor in between. Since you told us the LED would run after smashing, I suspect the LED isn’t properly connected to the board. With the LED anode or cathode disconnected you’ll measure 51V at the positive pad – when connected, only the LED forward voltage of a few volts.
A reflow might help.

The manufacturer might have chosen the relatively high voltage in order to avoid losses in the long thin wires.

Edit:
sorry for double post, just have seen that Lexel had the same idea earlier.

Sirius9
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O, it’s a E-Bike, with chunky battery pack, <- Important piece of information.
Have you checked if the coil is connected properly?

 

nvzn
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Sirius9 wrote:
O, it’s a E-Bike, with chunky battery pack, <- Important piece of information. Have you checked if the coil is connected properly?

How to check it? I dont know which coil… You mean positive and negative solder?

nvzn
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Flashy Mike wrote:
Of course a LED can run at 51V – with the proper series resistor in between. Since you told us the LED would run after smashing, I suspect the LED isn’t properly connected to the board. With the LED anode or cathode disconnected you’ll measure 51V at the positive pad – when connected, only the LED forward voltage of a few volts.
A reflow might help.

The manufacturer might have chosen the relatively high voltage in order to avoid losses in the long thin wires.

Edit:
sorry for double post, just have seen that Lexel had the same idea earlier.

So led with 51V will not kill that led?

Its from driver to led chip directly 51V..do the led chip have integrated resistors or something?

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nvzn wrote:
Sirius9 wrote:
O, it’s a E-Bike, with chunky battery pack, <- Important piece of information. Have you checked if the coil is connected properly?

How to check it? I dont know which coil… You mean positive and negative solder?


Well, it the voltmeter on your handlebar shows your battery voltage =52V and you are measuring 52V at the led that can only mean that DCDC step down converter is one sick puppy because XML2 led (or any other here common led) can not handel 51V, not even close to that.
If red blinking lights are also connected to the same step down converter that XML2 is connected to, and they still work properly it can only mean that part tha provides power for XML2 led is to blame for this mess.
Red LEDs are usually 3W so electronic that provides power for them is probably not the same as electronic that provides white 10W XML2 LED with power althou they can be on the same PDB.

Check if both wires from coil are still soldered to PCB, sometimes they can break off due to vibrations but when that happens in flashlight it usually loses power.

nvzn wrote:

Its from driver to led chip directly 51V..do the led chip have integrated resistors or something?

No, when everithing is OK you should read about 3,2 – 4V