Skilhunt H03 - Extra-Warm white 90CRI

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FireFlyMod
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Skilhunt H03 - Extra-Warm white 90CRI

I just received a H03 and decided to mod it for something “warmer”:

Comparison between Nichia 219B 5000K, 219C 4000K and the 219C 2700K:

The tint is excellent Thumbs Up

The H03 comes with a XML2 U4 (acceptable neutral white – around 5000K) driven on max @2,4A.

With a spring bypass on both head and tail cap, I get now a 3.1A+. Just nice.

Surprisingly, the head was not glued, so the modification was done fast and easy.

Overall, it is an excellent head light for modders, it already comes factory with a good emitter , so a real quality budget headlight for all.

To play secure, some epoxy can be added onto the circuit to gives extra protection (I usually pot my light with a mix of 1/3 thermal grease + 2/3 AB epoxy, easy to remove)

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Edited by: FireFlyMod on 10/17/2017 - 10:30
adam7027
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Nice modification!

(In case of any updates, I would like to follow them, so I subscribe this way – as I know now other way than this to do that on BLF)

Where could you purchase that 2700k Nichia emitter? Smile

electricjelly
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Great Mod. I like how you did your tailcap spring bypass. I’m a big fan of the h03 also. Its very lightweight, well built, affordable, has direct thermal path, and is easily modded.

I stuck 5A1 xpl hi’s in a couple, I’m really pleased with that tint. My next H03 project I’m planning on is a twin led mule without an optic or reflector for up close use.

freeme
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Worth the try.

FireFlyMod
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adam7027 wrote:
Nice modification!

(In case of any updates, I would like to follow them, so I subscribe this way – as I know now other way than this to do that on BLF)

Where could you purchase that 2700k Nichia emitter? Smile

You can check this link
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56720?destination=node/56720

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FireFlyMod
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Testing:

Top 2700k – center 4000k – bottom 5000k

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FireFlyMod
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electricjelly wrote:
Great Mod. I like how you did your tailcap spring bypass. I’m a big fan of the h03 also. Its very lightweight, well built, affordable, has direct thermal path, and is easily modded.

I stuck 5A1 xpl hi’s in a couple, I’m really pleased with that tint. My next H03 project I’m planning on is a twin led mule without an optic or reflector for up close use.

That sounds interesting. I also thought about a headlight with 2 different tint that can be activated separately or simultaneously.

I brought with me both the H03 and the HC30 during last night hike and realised that both lights are really good. Excellent combo for hiking.

If I had to take just 1 unit, I would still go for the H30 simply because it gives a excellent throw for it size and still plenty of spill to be used comfortably on shorter distance.

Now, I still have one 219C 90CRI (5000K) left and hesitate in which host I will install it. Flood or throw, flood or throw…

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electricjelly
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Yes, for outdoor use some throw is needed. I like full flood mules when working up close on a project. But when I wear a floody headlight outside I like to have a handheld flashlight with me when throw is needed.

It would be nice to have an adjustable flood to throw zoomie headlight as compact as the h03.

The h03 with the flip down diffuser almost nailed it, but not an ideal solution.

FireFlyMod
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Testing night photography with Nichia 2700K 90CRI

(Non professional equipment, just hand-held Galaxy S5 and modded headlights)

This one is on auto-WB:

Now, another sample with the camera set on fluorescent WB (around 4000k) Remember, the led is a 2700K…

Now, the same amphibian with the auto-WB setting, notice the reproduction of the red/pink of the skin even-dough the tint of the light is extra warm, the colour reproduction is excellent (the tod being quite blend with the greenish red earth tone of the soil)

(All pictures are non-retouched, only compressed)

Finally, same amphibian taken at different angle, with auto-WB… (It looks like a daylight photography)

I never managed to get a correct light with Cree emitter (my old Wizard XML2 3000K high CRI was just horrible)

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Nichia rules Thumbs Up

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adam7027 wrote:
Where could you purchase that 2700k Nichia emitter? Smile

https://www.fasttech.com/product/3505302-authentic-nichia-nvsl219at-5-25...

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FireFlyMod
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Lightbringer wrote:
adam7027 wrote:
Where could you purchase that 2700k Nichia emitter? Smile

https://www.fasttech.com/product/3505302-authentic-nichia-nvsl219at-5-25...

For your information, the link you post is for the old 219AT (113lm)

The pictures above are taken with the latest Nichia bin (NVSL219CT SM273 2700K 9050 D220 ) which deliver much more lumens than the AT series.

For a single emitter headlight, I do not recommend the older version, they can burn easily if pushed above 1.5-2A (headlight don’t have large heat sink)

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FireFlyMod wrote:
For a single emitter headlight, I do not recommend the older version, they can burn easily if pushed above 1.5-2A (headlight don’t have large heat sink)

I wouldn’t push any Nichias beyond 1A anyway, even with good heat-shedding. They’re most efficient at low currents, and the harder you push them, efficiency starts to tank.

 

Oooh, 3 in a pack, 3 for a triple… I got some ideas. Big Smile

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FireFlyMod
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The latest Nichia bin have slightly less “red” compared to the older version, but still outperform Cree in term of quality of light (CRI)
Also, the 219C is as resilient as the XP series… It’s a fact.

I am not a professional photographer, so I don’t carry specific lighting or photographic equipment when I decide to have a walk. I use my mobile phone both as GPS unit and camera and my headlight is first a hiking gear.

1.5 to 2A is totally fine with the latest C version, burst at 3 amp for few second isn’t an issue at all.

Remember this chart, the latest Nichia are tough:

A triple will heat more and consume more than a single emitter.

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FireFlyMod
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From yesterday trip, same headlight (2700k) – auto WB

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treoneo
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Did total lumens or throw distance change?

FireFlyMod
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Compared to which configuration?

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treoneo
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From the stock XMlU

FireFlyMod
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I did use different bin with Skilhunt headlight.

Now, if compared with the NW XML2 U4, a 219C @2700k will of course generates less lumens than the Cree (especially a U4 at 5k), but after the tailcap/head spring bypass modification, I managed to get around 3A on max. So the loose of lumens isn’t dramatic.

As some people already mentioned about this light, the H03 isn’t a true 1200L (not with a driver at 2.4A on max) it should be around 8-900L OTF.

I didn’t try the original led on the trail, but the tint was quite ok indoor, indeed. I purposely purchased the H03 for the Nichia bin, so I cannot compare with the U4 during outdoor.

Another interesting thing, after modding the H03 with the 2700k bin, it is (to my eyes) as bright as my Wizard 90CRI (which is has XML2 3000k) The beam is just a little bit more narrow (due to smaller emitter/TIR), but it doesn’t matter compared to the tint improvement.

In fact, the throw is surprisingly good for a light of this size! I will certainly pick up another one for my remaining 5000K Nichia waiting for a host.

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FireFlyMod
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Due to its very warm tone, the tint is quite pleasant while working on the trail. The night vision is better with a warm high CRI than a cool white at higher intensity. Also, I never got used to the Wizard 90CRI tint. Maybe I have been unlucky with the tint lottery, but the greenish tint is also present in other high cri rated bin from Cree. So a high CRI from Nichia will always be better than a equivalent rated CRI led from Cree. This is my experience.

The most important thing to remember is > FUNCTION. Walking in the forest, enjoying the wildlife at night etc, cannot be compared with a MTB ride. High speed, need high luminosity and a lot of throw…

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electricjelly
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All the nichias I’ve tried have been 4k to 5k. You have my curiosity peaked about this super warm 2.7k. The warmest light I’ve tried so far was that same Wizard hi cri healight and I wasn’t very happy with it. It turned me off of super warm lights.

Just like I shouldn’t give up on all super warm tints, you shouldn’t give up on Cree’s until you’ve tried a xp-l hi 5A1 tint. Richard has them now at Mountain. Even though they might not specifically say Hi Cri, they are nice and rosey and reproduce colors very well in my opinion. They pass the skin tone test, no sickly green at all.

FireFlyMod
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electricjelly wrote:
All the nichias I’ve tried have been 4k to 5k. You have my curiosity peaked about this super warm 2.7k. The warmest light I’ve tried so far was that same Wizard hi cri healight and I wasn’t very happy with it. It turned me off of super warm lights.

Just like I shouldn’t give up on all super warm tints, you shouldn’t give up on Cree’s until you’ve tried a xp-l hi 5A1 tint. Richard has them now at Mountain. Even though they might not specifically say Hi Cri, they are nice and rosey and reproduce colors very well in my opinion. They pass the skin tone test, no sickly green at all.

Funny, I had the same reaction after receiving that Wizard 90CRI. I did test it directly at the post office and was really disappointed.

Regarding Cree emitters, the H03 came with a good tint and I will probably reuse it in my Javelot (I just need to find a better driver that is optimized for the extension tube 2×18650)

Here is a picture of the Wizard 90CRI side by side with the modded H03 (both on max) :

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Another comparison, from the same trip. There is a small stream on that trail that always contains freshwater crabs. Good models for #red# testing.
The light is the same, H03 with 2700k Nichia bin, settings of the camera are:

-daylight (top)
-fluorescent (center)
-auto White Balance (bottom).

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Lightbringer
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FireFlyMod wrote:
A triple will heat more and consume more than a single emitter.

Naw, wouldn’t be FETing it or anything, but limiting current to split the current each one sees into thirds. Each chip has only a third the current, thus current density, so should be more efficient than one chip pulling the full load.

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electricjelly wrote:
Even though they might not specifically say Hi Cri, they are nice and rosey and reproduce colors very well in my opinion.

Sorry but if it is not high CRI, it can’t reproduce colors well, by definition.