WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

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clemence
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Could he actually dead rather than ran away?

- Clemence

Glenn7
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Well he was able to buy a nice coffin with our money Big Smile

Also seem to remember it ended up being something to do with the Darkshadow brand here

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Amazing how times have changed. A 742 otf lumens custom light back then used a (MC-E) quad emitter, 3 18650’s and a large host, the Worlds brightest single led flashlight.
Now a off the shelf Wuben E05 will do 900 lumens from a single 14500 with a single emitter and is about the same size as one 18650. Olight S1R II does 1000 lumens from a 16340 making it even smaller. What will the future bring?

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jon_slider wrote:
Clemence has very reasonable prices for his modding services and LEDs.

We may see some progress from Clemence modding an RRT-01 next month. We need to wait and see if the E21a and Optisolis are compatible with the magnetic ring.

here are the issues Im aware of, that need to be assessed:
The light needs to be tested on a light meter to determine IF the magnetic ring remains stable with the E21a and or Optisolis. It IS reasonably stable with the N219b. The drift is less than 10% and not visible to the naked eye.

by stable I mean, that I dont want the lumens to keep drifting once the ring stops turning.


Thanks. I can appreciate stability being important, as a visible drift after setting the brightness would be seriously annoying. I’m guessing that the emitters are carefully chosen for the magnetic control ring interface driver so that it’s very stable. Curious to see if that means a limited emitter choice results, and if at least a couple higher CRI emitters are within that range.
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moderator007 wrote:
Amazing how times have changed. A 742 otf lumens custom light back then used a (MC-E) quad emitter, 3 18650’s and a large host, the Worlds brightest single led flashlight.
Now a off the shelf Wuben E05 will do 900 lumens from a single 14500 with a single emitter and is about the same size as one 18650. Olight S1R II does 1000 lumens from a 16340 making it even smaller. What will the future bring?

With microprocessor miniaturization, there would be some physical limits that are ultimately unable to be crossed (e.g. atomic level). The progression curve on increased processing power curve has started to lessen. I’m very curious to know if a similar kind of physical threshold limit awaits LED emitters, given the visibility aspect. Heat is still a difficult limiter to master. Perhaps some other composition will be discovered that can result in an LED emitting even more light with less heat. Sushi
Tally-ho
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MascaratumB wrote:
It doesn’t work with unprotected flat top 18350 batteries such as the Keepower 750mAh and Aspire 1100mAh (34,7mm and 35mm, respectively). However, it works with the CRX modded battery (flat top Keeppower with protection circuit) that has about 36,4mm.

It sounds odd because it’s a perfect fit for my RRT01 old version and aspire 18350 1100mAh. The battery has small side rattles when inserted in the battery tube and stop rattling when both parts are assembled. Thumbs Up

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xevious wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
Amazing how times have changed. A 742 otf lumens custom light back then used a (MC-E) quad emitter, 3 18650’s and a large host, the Worlds brightest single led flashlight.
Now a off the shelf Wuben E05 will do 900 lumens from a single 14500 with a single emitter and is about the same size as one 18650. Olight S1R II does 1000 lumens from a 16340 making it even smaller. What will the future bring?

With microprocessor miniaturization, there would be some physical limits that are ultimately unable to be crossed (e.g. atomic level). The progression curve on increased processing power curve has started to lessen. I’m very curious to know if a similar kind of physical threshold limit awaits LED emitters, given the visibility aspect. Heat is still a difficult limiter to master. Perhaps some other composition will be discovered that can result in an LED emitting even more light with less heat. Sushi

It’s becoming more challenging for sure. I modded a Ultratac A1 running a boost driver (mtn-bst2) with a single 14500 with a xhp50.2 making right at 2000 lumens. So there is still some room left for improvement. The heat is becoming the challenging part. The electronics seem to be passing all the other obstacles. The GXB172 driver is another fine example.
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Tally-ho wrote:
It sounds odd because it’s a perfect fit for my RRT01

the reason the flat top battery does not work is that the head of the RRT-01 has a physical reverse polarity protection, a raised white plastic ring around the positive post in the head. The ring is preventing the flat top from reaching the positive post.

A small magnet would solve the problem, to extend the flat top so it makes contact. However, I have never tried using a magnet, Ive only read about it online. Others report solving the problem with a blob of solder on the battery.. never tried that either, myself.

My concerns about a magnet is that neodymium can catch fire, and that it loses magnetism when it gets hot. My solution is to buy a battery that works, the 1200mAh 18350 Keepower. Or I use 16340 cells.

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moderator007 wrote:
noboneshotdog wrote:
Ironhorse wrote:
Am I seeing left hand threads?

Hmmmm, pretty smart, that way you won’t accidentally unscrew the head when turning it on.

I remember my old RRT01 head needing to be tightened pretty hard to keep that from happening.

Now if we get LVP and a stronger indent in the off position to prevent accidental activation in the pocket we will have a winner.

My old RRT01 used to turn on in my pocket all the time if I didn’t loosen the head to lock it out.

Turning the light (ring) ON is the same direction as unscrewing the head. Turning it Off tightens the head. Strange! Sad
Is the original RRT this way?

No the Original turned the Opposite way, Right Hand Threads to tighten the Head and the Ring turned to the Right for more Brightness which was the opposite direction iirc?

MascaratumB
Thank You for the Heads Up.
This light looks like it’s a Larger Diameter than the old style. With the Ring turning the other direction I Don’t know if I could get use to that very easily? My Sunwayman Rotery Lights turn to the Right for More Lumens Like the Old style JetBeam. That would take some getting use too. But it still looks Good.

Interested in repairing my JetBeam TC-R1, (I’m lacking knowledge and a Novice) Wires broken between LED and Double Stacked Boards below. I soldered New wire to LED (Brass LED Base is loose, not glued or secured). 1 wire is Broken just above the top of the

MascaratumB
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Tally-ho wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
It doesn’t work with unprotected flat top 18350 batteries such as the Keepower 750mAh and Aspire 1100mAh (34,7mm and 35mm, respectively). However, it works with the CRX modded battery (flat top Keeppower with protection circuit) that has about 36,4mm.

It sounds odd because it’s a perfect fit for my RRT01 old version and aspire 18350 1100mAh. The battery has small side rattles when inserted in the battery tube and stop rattling when both parts are assembled. Thumbs Up

It is odd but true mate!! Tired I tried it a lot of times and I couldn’t get the Aspire or the Keepower 750mAh to work on the old RRT01 I got from you Oops
It really has to do with this:

jon_slider wrote:
the reason the flat top battery does not work is that the head of the RRT-01 has a physical reverse polarity protection, a raised white plastic ring around the positive post in the head. The ring is preventing the flat top from reaching the positive post.

I believe that if I “shave” that plastic ring or if I put a small disc on the top of the batteries, it will work, but so far I couldn’t make them “light the light”!
I am using an OTR 16340 700mAh in it!

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Sorry about that last post showing up So Late Facepalm I previewed what I had typed then pressed Save, But apparently it didn’t post until Just Now?
The Light does look good and it’s Sure to have some Nice UpDated features.

Interested in repairing my JetBeam TC-R1, (I’m lacking knowledge and a Novice) Wires broken between LED and Double Stacked Boards below. I soldered New wire to LED (Brass LED Base is loose, not glued or secured). 1 wire is Broken just above the top of the

jon_slider
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Tooreal wrote:
No the Original turned the Opposite way, Right Hand Threads to tighten the Head and the Ring turned to the Right for more Brightness which was the opposite direction iirc?

the old RRT-01 and the new one are the same. The head screws on the same direction, and the dial increases brightness the same direction.

Yes if I turn the dial all the way up, it is possible to unscrew the head on an RRT-01, if it was not screwed down tight.
Yes when I turn the dial all the way down, that is the same direction that tightens the head.

It is not actually a problem. I just tighten the head, and use the dial normally.

the confusion is caused by the video that HK posted being reversed.

if you watch the video I reposted, after flipping it, (post #115) you will see that the head threads and dial turns are the same in the new model, as the old model.

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The new RRT-01 showed up today. The operation direction is the same as the V11R, unscrews the same too. This one has 2 quick turns to the right and its in strobe that vary’s brightness. 3 quick turns to the right and its in sos. Simple UI. It also has detents all the way around. The detents at off and high are more resistive in motion. It’s kind of like a lock in off and high.

It experiences the same drift in the same manner as the V11R. First turn on lots of drift until warm, stable once it warms up. Turning the light once stable 360 degrees about the same as the V11R, I saw 10 to 12 lumen drift at the upper end.

In my lumen tube using a Aspire 18350 the highest I saw was about 800 lumens for just a second. Settles around 700 lumens and decreases slightly as the battery depletes.

Working on taking the light apart. More to come.

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moderator007 wrote:
The new RRT-01 showed up today. The operation direction is the same as the V11R, unscrews the same too. This one has 2 quick turns to the right and its in strobe that vary’s brightness. 3 quick turns to the right and its in sos. Simple UI. It also has detents all the way around. The detents at off and high are more resistive in motion. It’s kind of like a lock in off and high.

It experiences the same drift in the same manner as the V11R. First turn on lots of drift until warm, stable once it warms up. Turning the light once stable 360 degrees about the same as the V11R, I saw 10 to 12 lumen drift at the upper end.

In my lumen tube using a Aspire 18350 the highest I saw was about 800 lumens for just a second. Settles around 700 lumens and decreases slightly as the battery depletes.

Working on taking the light apart. More to come.

Nice! Looking forward to seeing your breakdown.

TIP: Assuming the new RRT-01 is constructed the same way as the old one, it is critical to desolder the driver wires from the star and completely remove the driver from the head of the light before twisting the two halves of the ring apart to get to the magnetic ring. If you twist the two halves of the head apart around the ring with the driver installed you will torque the driver wires and break them.

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moderator007 wrote:
The new RRT-01 showed up today. … It also has detents all the way around. The detents at off and high are more resistive

congrats on your new light!

did you just tell me that there are more than just the 2 detents at off and max, in the new RRT-01?
iow, similar to the Eye10? which btw also has the strobe..

I have an Eye10 and the detents do not produce consistent lumen levels at each notch…
now Im sad, and my wallet is happy

clemence
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No real continuous variable brightness huh? This is not what I expected.

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Detents all the way around, count me out then.

One of the best things was the smooth ramping. A single detent for off would have been fine.

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It doesn’t really stop at the detents, its just a small catch you can feel when you turn it. If you didn’t want any detents at all, besides off and high you could sand or file them out. Their pretty small little grooves, a small ball bearing rides in the curved grove with a spring behind the ball.

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.

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16mm MCPCB?

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I didn’t measure it clemence but it’s definitely not 16mm. I’m guessing 14mm or smaller. I already modded the light with a LH351D 4000k 90 cri, turned up the current, and larger emitter wires, so its back together now. Big Smile
Looked to me like it was about the same size MCPCB as the V11R, which is a 14mm.
The MCPCB has two holes that are only partial drilled so that the MCPCB holding screws are counter sunk. Changing the MCPCB would be challenging unless you didn’t use the screws and let the reflector apply pressure.

Its making 900 lumens now of high cri light. Big Smile

Fairly easy to mod, toughest part is the same with the V11R, getting the head and control ring apart, blue loctite. Wasn’t to bad though.
It does have a lot of parts to keep up with.

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I like the idea of the 8 indents as it would make it feel more mechanical, also holding it where you put it.
It would also be good for helping you to know approx runtimes for example, feeling 3 micro clicks might = 1.5 hours runtime, making it less guessing for runtime.

I like the heatsinking copper to brass to aluminum & SS for drop protection.

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I took several pics while I had it apart, I’ll try to do a proper right up tomorrow. I really like the light, but I’m a control ring fanboy.
I always wanted the old RRT-01 but never got a chance to buy one, so when the new one came out, I had to have it. Sick

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Thank you Moderator007. I have one in route, should be here by the end of the week. Glad to see getting at the emitter isn’t a huge issue. Blue Loctite hasn’t stopped me in the past. Smile

I have a LH351 in 5000K and a Luxeon V2 5000K. Haven’t decided which one it will get yet. I put a Luxeon in a V11R. Didn’t have a 13mm or similar board for it so I had to make a 10mm one work. Reckon I will just reuse the RRT’s board and do a reflow. I didn’t notice any CCT number in the spec of the new RRT. Can you make a guess at what it is in stock form?

Thanks again.

"Everywhere I go, there I am"

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moderator007 wrote:
I didn’t measure it clemence but it’s definitely not 16mm. I’m guessing 14mm or smaller. I already modded the light with a LH351D 4000k 90 cri, turned up the current, and larger emitter wires, so its back together now. Big Smile
Looked to me like it was about the same size MCPCB as the V11R, which is a 14mm.
The MCPCB has two holes that are only partial drilled so that the MCPCB holding screws are counter sunk. Changing the MCPCB would be challenging unless you didn’t use the screws and let the reflector apply pressure.

Its making 900 lumens now of high cri light. Big Smile

Fairly easy to mod, toughest part is the same with the V11R, getting the head and control ring apart, blue loctite. Wasn’t to bad though.
It does have a lot of parts to keep up with.

Thanks 007, I still might get one out of curiosity.

- Clemence

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clemence wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
I didn’t measure it clemence but it’s definitely not 16mm. I’m guessing 14mm or smaller. I already modded the light with a LH351D 4000k 90 cri, turned up the current, and larger emitter wires, so its back together now. Big Smile
Looked to me like it was about the same size MCPCB as the V11R, which is a 14mm.
The MCPCB has two holes that are only partial drilled so that the MCPCB holding screws are counter sunk. Changing the MCPCB would be challenging unless you didn’t use the screws and let the reflector apply pressure.

Its making 900 lumens now of high cri light. Big Smile

Fairly easy to mod, toughest part is the same with the V11R, getting the head and control ring apart, blue loctite. Wasn’t to bad though.
It does have a lot of parts to keep up with.

Thanks 007, I still might get one out of curiosity.

- Clemence


I told you wrong Clemence, the V11R uses a 12mm MCPCB. The RRT-01 seemed about the same size.
I will try to take the bezel off tomorrow and check to be sure.
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toddcshoe wrote:
Thank you Moderator007. I have one in route, should be here by the end of the week. Glad to see getting at the emitter isn’t a huge issue. Blue Loctite hasn’t stopped me in the past. Smile

I have a LH351 in 5000K and a Luxeon V2 5000K. Haven’t decided which one it will get yet. I put a Luxeon in a V11R. Didn’t have a 13mm or similar board for it so I had to make a 10mm one work. Reckon I will just reuse the RRT’s board and do a reflow. I didn’t notice any CCT number in the spec of the new RRT. Can you make a guess at what it is in stock form?

Thanks again.


Sorry but I didn’t play with it but a few minutes until I started taking it apart. Facepalm
Under UV the xpl hi is yellowish orange if that helps.
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Looks promising so far. Any word on low voltage protection?

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Too bad the pill isn’t made from aluminum or copper.

- Clemence

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moderator007 wrote:
I took several pics while I had it apart, I’ll try to do a proper right up tomorrow. I really like the light, but I’m a control ring fanboy. I always wanted the old RRT-01 but never got a chance to buy one, so when the new one came out, I had to have it. Sick

Thanks for your reports on this so far Wink
BTW, did you take some photos on the “stock” LED beam?
We’ll be looking for some more comments on this Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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