[Modding] Astrolux MF01 --> OSH park NarsilM

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Tom Tom
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hIKARInoob wrote:
Lexel wrote:
This depends mainly how efficient the driver can boost without getting saturation in the inductors or other hardware limitations

Basically this new MF01 needs to be tested again. M43 can push turbo with cell voltage as low as about 3.5V with GAs (my own test), and the TM38 can push turbo with cell voltage as low as 3.3V http://budgetlightforum.com/node/51605
Of course different settings, but we’re talking boost drivers here. Curious, curious, curious.
Seriously, if this new boost version can push 10000 Nichia lumens with cell voltage less than 3.7V, I’m probably getting it (again)! Cool

Indeed. Everything has changed. And I have high hopes. Even if not perfect, I like the direction they have taken, it has so much potential beyond simply connecting a cell to an LED via a FET, or a buck driver.

Lexel
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Tom Tom wrote:
LED lifetime in ultra-low/moon mode is in any case academic. Whether very low constant current, or PWMed at much higher current.

They will last forever, in our usage.

People who need to understand the detail are making e.g. streetlamps or warehouse lighting that must last 25 years plus, on for maybe 12 hours/day on average in the northern latitudes, where I live. Cree e.g. provide copious data for professional engineers to deeply understand, run the LEDs at their most efficient current level (lumens/watt), understand how the silicone domes can degrade due to environmental contamination, even incorrect choice of e.g. o-ring seals than can outgass degrading chemicals, this is more and more a precisely understood engineering subject, and the likes of Cree etc. are continuing to refine their products for their real markets, which is not us.

Worry more about our over-driven turbo etc. modes, where heat and current density kills.We are usually pushing these things way beyond datasheet parameters.

Except for things like the MF01, where the extravagant use of e.g. 18 decent LEDs to kick out e.g. 10,000 lumens i.e. 555 per LED is very modest indeed. This is one of the last “mega torches” that I would have any concern about over-stressing the LEDs, assuming good thermal protection, which by reports it seems to have, maybe even over-cautious.

10 minutes in turbo getting the torch roasting hot (who knows what LED junction temperatures, upper limit is melting point of solder, where the none-lead stuff is better) might be equivalent to decades in moonlight.

Interesting to discuss, academically, but of no practical relevance, IMHO.

yeah in reality you get at least 10000h to 50% in CC moonlight
what often people underestimate is thermal shock during reflow, it can make an LED fail after 30-50h

Tom Tom
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Lexel wrote:

yeah in reality you get at least 10000h to 50% in CC moonlight
what often people underestimate is thermal shock during reflow, it can make an LED fail after 30-50h

Yes, flow (not re-flow) is very relevant. Manufacturers will publish a profile for soldering, based on commercial equipment, starting with a pre-heat at 100+ C to bring everything up to temperature and dry out the solvents from the solder paste, then a sharp ramp up to melt the solder, even as high as 250C, then a sharp ramp down again to the safe 100+ temperature, then a gentle cooling. The best commercial equipment will even do all this in an inert atmosphere . The pre-heat phase and subsequent cool-down is very important, but not something easily done with DIY equipment, but it is possible to get quite close, if interested.

Pre-heat, and slow cool down reduces thermal shock immensely.

JIGHEADWORM
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hIKARInoob wrote:
Lexel wrote:
This depends mainly how efficient the driver can boost without getting saturation in the inductors or other hardware limitations

Basically this new MF01 needs to be tested again. M43 can push turbo with cell voltage as low as about 3.5V with GAs (my own test), and the TM38 can push turbo with cell voltage as low as 3.3V http://budgetlightforum.com/node/51605
Of course different settings, but we’re talking boost drivers here. Curious, curious, curious.
Seriously, if this new boost version can push 10000 Nichia lumens with cell voltage less than 3.7V, I’m probably getting it (again)! Cool


I was just getting ready to put the cells on the charger and noticed they where at 3.68v so i took it out and tested it.Started out at 9670 with 9220@30s.
hIKARInoob
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JIGHEADWORM wrote:
hIKARInoob wrote:
Lexel wrote:
This depends mainly how efficient the driver can boost without getting saturation in the inductors or other hardware limitations

Basically this new MF01 needs to be tested again. M43 can push turbo with cell voltage as low as about 3.5V with GAs (my own test), and the TM38 can push turbo with cell voltage as low as 3.3V http://budgetlightforum.com/node/51605
Of course different settings, but we’re talking boost drivers here. Curious, curious, curious.
Seriously, if this new boost version can push 10000 Nichia lumens with cell voltage less than 3.7V, I’m probably getting it (again)! Cool


I was just getting ready to put the cells on the charger and noticed they where at 3.68v so i took it out and tested it.Started out at 9670 with 9220@30s.

Hold on… let me repeat what I just read here… 3.68V… You put them in the MF01 second gen (with one pair of wires to led board)… And you get 9670 lumens at startup, and 9220 lumens at 30 seconds? Cuz if this is so… then I’m so getting some more… Big Smile

(P.S. With 3.7V I get about 6000 lumens from my first gen MF01 219C)

Jtm94
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Yes once my 1st batch MF01 drops below 3.7v the output is around 6,000 lumens. I am rather interested in the new configuration.

hIKARInoob
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Wow, thanks a lot JIGHEADWORM for measuring. I believe level4/high mode is reduced from ~5500 lumens to ~3000 lumens as well. This means the light should run almost continuously on this level without stepping down as well. My concern is that another member here (patmurris) only measures about 8000 lumens instead of ~10000. So far things look really good though. Thumbs Up

JIGHEADWORM
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hIKARInoob wrote:
Wow, thanks a lot JIGHEADWORM for measuring. I believe level4/high mode is reduced from ~5500 lumens to ~3000 lumens as well. This means the light should run almost continuously on this level without stepping down as well. My concern is that another member here (patmurris) only measures about 8000 lumens instead of ~10000. So far things look really good though. Thumbs Up

Yeah mine runs around 3000 on high i let it run a long time and it didn’t step down .
FreeMagenta
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Tom Tom wrote:
LED lifetime in ultra-low/moon mode is in any case academic. Whether very low constant current, or PWMed at much higher current.

They will last forever, in our usage.

Unless someone keeps the light constantly in moon mode (in case of power outage it allows to find it fast…). Then that 20k hours – instead of 100 – lifetime can be important…

PBWilson
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I’m getting pretty excited to upgrade my MT-01 with Lexel’s new driver and NarsilM. I pulled the trigger last night and it’s on its way to me as we speak!

First I got my D4. Then a pair of Q8 lights. Now I’ll add another ramping light with my MT-01. Cool

hIKARInoob
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PBWilson wrote:
I’m getting pretty excited to upgrade my MT-01 with Lexel’s new driver and NarsilM. I pulled the trigger last night and it’s on its way to me as we speak!

First I got my D4. Then a pair of Q8 lights. Now I’ll add another ramping light with my MT-01. Cool

All top notch lights man. Party

PBWilson
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I owe it to all the folks on this forum who steered me in the right direction!

mizou51
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You will love narsilM ramping with Mf01… So cool to get control of those big lumens.

Only drawback is the poor thermal management of the Mf01. 1min45s of turbo and it step-down because you won’t touch the head.

Lexel
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Simple thermal control

When you cant hold the light on the tube anymore and the head would burn you, then the LEDs will be still OK with junction temperature, but your hand cries ramp down

The good thing is that the LEDs are not driven hard, so even if the head would hit 80-90dC the LEDs would not be at their limit of 150dC

yuhsin91123
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I’m still doing research on how to do this with the V2… missing those 4 wires throws me off a big time Sad
Maybe I should just send the thing to Lexel…

Lexel
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yuhsin91123 wrote:
I’m still doing research on how to do this with the V2… missing those 4 wires throws me off a big time Sad Maybe I should just send the thing to Lexel…

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1207805#comment-1207805

I did explain here how to modify the MCPCB to 2S/9P

Flying Luminosity
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Received mine today – thanks, Lexel!

Still saving up for a decent soldering station though, so it might be a while before I check in here again for advice.

Flying Luminosity
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I just unscrewed the bezel, and removed the brass contact ring from the inside. Now I’m wondering if I can just pull the grey wires off the MCPCB, or do they need to be unsoldered?

Also, I don’t understand what’s going on here:

Lexel wrote:
new version of MF01 needs to get a MCPCB modification as well

you can ignore the cables I put in there, basically you can wire it like you want, just make sure the red circles and the black circles are connected towards each other

the cables of me are in the 3 120° sections just different approaches

you cut so that 2 LEDs are together in series, while to board had originally 6 in series, so 2 cuts per 120° section

Can someone please explain (for dummies)?

Lexel
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you can unsolder the leads from old driver

if you have 6 its V1 and you can solder 3 of each kind to new driver

if you got only 2 you have V2 and you need to modify the MCPCB as well
cut in 6 places as shown
and
wiring the red circles together
wiring the black circles together

Flying Luminosity
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Please correct me if I’m wrong – if I understand correctly, for V2 you basically sever the traces on the star that connect the LEDs where the straight black lines are, and the squiggly black and red lines are where short pieces of cable are soldered onto the star?

Since this is my first ever project, I’m now wondering whether I should dare to rewire the LEDs, or whether I should keep the V1 configuration. I’m assuming I can just make the cuts with a carpet knife?

Thanks for the help. This is all new to me, and I really want to get it right. Got my rework station today, but I’m not even sure if the solder that I bought has a sufficient diameter … I’m eager to get started though once I’m sure I understand everything! Smile

Lexel wrote:
you can unsolder the leads from old driver

if you have 6 its V1 and you can solder 3 of each kind to new driver

if you got only 2 you have V2 and you need to modify the MCPCB as well
cut in 6 places as shown
and
wiring the red circles together
wiring the black circles together

Lexel
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Flying Luminosity wrote:
Please correct me if I’m wrong – if I understand correctly, for V2 you basically sever the traces on the star that connect the LEDs where the straight black lines are, and the squiggly black and red lines are where short pieces of cable are soldered onto the star?

Since this is my first ever project, I’m now wondering whether I should dare to rewire the LEDs, or whether I should keep the V1 configuration. I’m assuming I can just make the cuts with a carpet knife?

Thanks for the help. This is all new to me, and I really want to get it right. Got my rework station today, but I’m not even sure if the solder that I bought has a sufficient diameter … I’m eager to get started though once I’m sure I understand everything! Smile

for V1 star no changes needed, not even opening up the head front

for V2 6 cuts on the marked lines are needed and all same color dots need to be wired to the driver adding bridges and 4-6 more leads (3 or 4 pads on driver), as you should increase the gauge of the wiring by 3 as the current goes up 3 times compared to V2

each wire should share 6 diodes current balanced
you don’t need to follow my painted wiring

JIGHEADWORM
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I contacted banggood and they are supposed to be sending me a v1 mcpcb.

JIGHEADWORM
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Flying Luminosity wrote:
I just unscrewed the bezel, and removed the brass contact ring from the inside. Now I’m wondering if I can just pull the grey wires off the MCPCB, or do they need to be unsoldered?

Also, I don’t understand what’s going on here:

Lexel wrote:
new version of MF01 needs to get a MCPCB modification as well

you can ignore the cables I put in there, basically you can wire it like you want, just make sure the red circles and the black circles are connected towards each other

the cables of me are in the 3 120° sections just different approaches

you cut so that 2 LEDs are together in series, while to board had originally 6 in series, so 2 cuts per 120° section

Can someone please explain (for dummies)?


I wired according to diagram and all leds are working except for 2 leds at mateminco label when you hook up positive wire for the two leds the 2 at mateminco come on an all others go off.If anybody has any ideas let me know.
Lexel
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In the pcture on the bright area the traces are not really good visible, maybe the real trace is there different and another ground wire needed

JIGHEADWORM
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Looks a mess but got all leds working.

JIGHEADWORM
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Everything was working nice put it in light box with fresh charged vtc6’s and got 15000 lumens . But something has went wrong light still works it ramps up to about 4500 lumens the shuts off if you let go and ramp down it will come back on at 4200 and ramp down to moon.

Lexel
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JIGHEADWORM wrote:
Everything was working nice put it in light box with fresh charged vtc6’s and got 15000 lumens . But something has went wrong light still works it ramps up to about 4500 lumens the shuts off if you let go and ramp down it will come back on at 4200 and ramp down to moon.

Sounds like the FET died or its signal connection is broken
Should go to pin 3 of MCU

JIGHEADWORM
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Lexel wrote:
JIGHEADWORM wrote:
Everything was working nice put it in light box with fresh charged vtc6’s and got 15000 lumens . But something has went wrong light still works it ramps up to about 4500 lumens the shuts off if you let go and ramp down it will come back on at 4200 and ramp down to moon.

Sounds like the FET died or its signal connection is broken
Should go to pin 3 of MCU


Yeah been gone gonna check it out tonight.
JIGHEADWORM
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Did some checking there is zero voltage on pin 3 when light is on .when you ramp up and light turns off or you double click for turbo there is 5.11 volts on pin 3.Anybody got any idea.

JIGHEADWORM
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I changed the fet and light is working now nearly 17000 lumens on turbo .

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