XM-L vs XP-L

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mercrazy
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XM-L vs XP-L

why would cree xml be chosen over xpl?
appears xpl is better in price and equal or better in performance?
am i missing something?
better cooling for xml?
thanks

mercrazy

hIKARInoob
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XML was released about 7 years ago or so? Then came XML2, and then XPL (couple of years ago). Now you also have XPL2. I only see XML in budget lights these days. XPL is much more efficient than XML, and I can only think of lower price for the XML why they are still being used.

djozz
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hIKARInoob wrote:
XPL is much more efficient than XML

Their efficiency is very close.

link to djozz tests 

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djozz wrote:
hIKARInoob wrote:
XPL is much more efficient than XML
Their efficiency is very close.

Really? I’ll be danged.

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I might very be wrong or partially wrong.

When I looked things up my conclusion was:

a larger hot spot/floodier/lower driven amperage, the XML2 was on paper “better” (V8)

The

XPL2

more of a small spot/throwier/better performing if pushing hard, on paper “better” (V6 with a turbo)

mainly similure output but “feel” different

(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)

CRX
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XM-L/2 looks better Smile

mercrazy
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i love V8s, i don’t like V6s, but mainly due to sound.
if they both do the same work with no sound, would i know the difference?
how do XMLs look better? please explain to a novice.
thanks

mercrazy

Jack Kellar
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And from what I hear, the XP-L line has horrible tint shifts.

Lexel
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Jack Kellar wrote:
And from what I hear, the XP-L line has horrible tint shifts.

XML2 has the same tint shift, XPL2 worse

CRX
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mercrazy wrote:
how do XMLs look better? please explain to a novice. thanks

Just a personal preference Big Smile

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Does the tint shifts also apply to the XPL-HI? I have only one with XPL-HI (doesn’t shift that much, as far as I perceive) and another on the way, and I’m curious to know if they shift as much as the others!
Thanks in advance Thumbs Up

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Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8   Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI   Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Triple TIR & XP-G2   

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An SMO reflector can mess up tint so much I guess the LED choice wouldn’t even matter that much in this aspect

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

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XPL HI has very little tintshift

MascaratumB
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Lexel wrote:
XPL HI has very little tintshift

Is it due to be “dedomed”?

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 / AM S3 vs Neal 219c / Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior / OTR M1 / Wuben E05

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8   Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI   Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Triple TIR & XP-G2   

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

 

CRX
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Haven’t noticed much with the XP-L HI but tried an XP-L2 in a reflector and hated it.

mercrazy
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again, complete newb here, but i don’t understand cri, tint shift and so on.
for my project i only care about illumination to navigate. is cri. etc. something i should be concerned about? i’ve noticed on the flashlight forums, cri gets more attention than anything.
thanks

mercrazy

djozz
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mercrazy wrote:
again, complete newb here, but i don’t understand cri, tint shift and so on.
for my project i only care about illumination to navigate. is cri. etc. something i should be concerned about? i’ve noticed on the flashlight forums, cri gets more attention than anything.
thanks

If illumination for navigation is the goal, neither tint shift or CRI is something to be concerned about. There is a discussion that neutral white is easier for the eyes than cool white light, but even that is a matter of preference.
So in your case just ignore the bunch of tint snobs around here (me being one of them Innocent )

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

CRX
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mercrazy wrote:
for my project i only care about illumination to navigate. is cri. etc. something i should be concerned about? i’ve noticed on the flashlight forums, cri gets more attention than anything. thanks

Depends what you’re navigating through, woods, rocky terrain, snow, outdoor uneven natural surfaces you would appreciate a high CRI neutral tint for better perception of depth etc. I’ve found myself in electrical cupboards on a few occasions with just a 6500K 1A tint feeling like I’m in some action movie unable to distinguish which wire is what colour LOL

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CRX wrote:
mercrazy wrote:
for my project i only care about illumination to navigate. is cri. etc. something i should be concerned about? i’ve noticed on the flashlight forums, cri gets more attention than anything. thanks

Depends what you’re navigating through, woods, rocky terrain, snow, outdoor uneven natural surfaces you would appreciate a high CRI neutral tint for better perception of depth etc. I’ve found myself in electrical cupboards on a few occasions with just a 6500K 1A tint feeling like I’m in some action movie unable to distinguish which wire is what colour LOL


Hah, same here Big Smile

Rule of thumb is: those yellow streetlights have very low CRI, so everything seems like the same yellow color. CFL lamps are cool white with mediocre CRI, so it bleaches everything pale but lets you tell your reds from your yellows and your blues from your greens. Daylight, on the other end of the comparison, is when you see the TRUE colors of whatever you’re looking at – it has the highest CRI in the scale.

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CRX wrote:
mercrazy wrote:
for my project i only care about illumination to navigate. is cri. etc. something i should be concerned about? i’ve noticed on the flashlight forums, cri gets more attention than anything. thanks

Depends what you’re navigating through, woods, rocky terrain, snow, outdoor uneven natural surfaces you would appreciate a high CRI neutral tint for better perception of depth etc. I’ve found myself in electrical cupboards on a few occasions with just a 6500K 1A tint feeling like I’m in some action movie unable to distinguish which wire is what colour LOL

Found myself in the same situation in telephone closets.
Wasn’t good at all distinguishing those pairs, being washed out and all. I had another light with better CRI and issue was resolved. Huge difference in this instance.

Persechini
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CRI is how well color gets reflected, LEDs come usually from 70s to 80s, but high CRI options are not uncommon (CRI over 90). The higher, the more vivid, but it’s a matter of personal preference how much weight you give to CRI when selecting an emitter.

Tint shift is the difference in tint from the center of the beam to the outer edge of the spill, and this changes with LED, reflector/optics type and material, weather the emitter was dedomed or not, if the front glass has anti-reflective coating or not. If the hotspot is blueish, the corona gets yellow and the spill gets green, for example, it will be an ugly light, so ideally you get the tint you prefer with little shift as possible

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

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In my experience, CRI matters very little. I suppose its helpful if you’re viewing art or are a photography, but in most cases its irrelevant.

On the other hand, Tint makes a much bigger difference. Cool tints make outdoor terrain look flat and are harsh on the eyes. Neutral tints look much more pleasant and make it easier to resolve objects you’re looking at. Warm tints are also very pleasant outdoors, but look too orange indoors.

Lexel
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Firelight2 wrote:
In my experience, CRI matters very little. I suppose its helpful if you’re viewing art or are a photography, but in most cases its irrelevant.

On the other hand, Tint makes a much bigger difference. Cool tints make outdoor terrain look flat and are harsh on the eyes. Neutral tints look much more pleasant and make it easier to resolve objects you’re looking at. Warm tints are also very pleasant outdoors, but look too orange indoors.

you ever saw greenish pale skin on a NW CRI70 LED compared to a decent CRI80 or CRI90 LED with more red