Maeerxu M8 26650 Flashlight Discussion Thread /// Green is Instock Now

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Dirty_Pierre
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That’s the quick and dirty of it for tonight, it got late on me.

As far as the ramping goes it is slow. It does blink slightly at max.
With the slow ramping perhaps its saving grace is the instant access to lowest from off. Single click.
Instant access to turbo from off. Double click.

More as time allows, I’ll toss a video up of the UI when I get a chance.

Cula
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Can you measure reflectors width and height please?

Dirty_Pierre
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Cula wrote:
Can you measure reflectors width and height please?

No problem. I’ll get some measurements up sometime this weekend as time allows.

EDIT ADDED MEASUREMENTS OF REFLECTOR FOR Cula**

The diameter of the reflector at head end at widest part is: 46mm
The diameter at the base of reflector before it steps down to the centering area is: 25mm
The overall length of the reflector from top to bottom is 41mm* If you remove the centering spacer take away another 1mm from that making it 40mm

Hope that helps, if more measurements are needed let me know and I can get them when I can.

Satan@103TFS
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Without LiitoKala 50A is no go for me.

Cula
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Dirty_Pierre wrote:

No problem. I’ll get some measurements up sometime this weekend as time allows.

EDIT ADDED MEASUREMENTS OF REFLECTOR FOR Cula**

The diameter of the reflector at head end at widest part is: 46mm
The diameter at the base of reflector before it steps down to the centering area is: 25mm
The overall length of the reflector from top to bottom is 41mm* If you remove the centering spacer take away another 1mm from that making it 40mm

Hope that helps, if more measurements are needed let me know and I can get them when I can.

Thank you Beer

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Dirty_Pierre wrote:
Cula wrote:
Can you measure reflectors width and height please?

No problem. I’ll get some measurements up sometime this weekend as time allows.

EDIT ADDED MEASUREMENTS OF REFLECTOR FOR Cula**

The diameter of the reflector at head end at widest part is: 46mm
The diameter at the base of reflector before it steps down to the centering area is: 25mm
The overall length of the reflector from top to bottom is 41mm* If you remove the centering spacer take away another 1mm from that making it 40mm

Hope that helps, if more measurements are needed let me know and I can get them when I can.

What cells have you tried? Any fitment issues? Can you measure the tube ID?

.

Satan@103TFS wrote:
Without LiitoKala 50A is no go for me.

That would be unfortunate, but cells can vary slightly as can tubes, let’s see what D_Pierre says. I wouldn’t have a problem doing a slight reaming of the tube if necessary. My LK Lii-50A meausre 26.7mm at their widest point.

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Dirty_Pierre
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Battery Tube Measurements:

beam0
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Dirty_Pierre wrote:
Battery Tube Measurements:


Thanks for this, and the photo!

Looks like plenty of meat on that tube for a bit of reaming, probably only need about 0.3mm for the LK 50’s

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Green version is now listed!!

“Under restocking. It will be available soon”

.

THANKS Freeme! …. I assume you made this happen! Thumbs Up

Hopefully the code won’t be expired and will be valid for the green version too.

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

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Hey Freeme

can you ask them to make the ramping faster (about 3 seconds from low to high and turbo/moon access). Will get 2 green if they meet my request. Big Smile

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That green one sure looks great. Love the shape and size of this flashlight.
Got me thinking on how to mod this one….
I would replace the driver for sure but also want to keep charging possibility. Is there a way to keep this driver only as a charging board and piggyback another driver on top? Which components should I remove (those which power the Led) and which to leave (to keep the charger function)?

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Those are cheap OEM case for flashlight.

RobertB wrote:
Just ordered a M8 through Freeme's link. Funny, I just received an order from Hank with spare parts, and it came in one of those plastic boxes !{width:30%}https://i.imgur.com/f3bj9Kv.jpg![/quote]

 

Spent sometime with the light. Ramping time will take you 1s-1.5s to reach "High" (~70%) from lowest (visa- versa). However, if you ramp up to Turbo, it will take you rough 6s to ramp down. 

 

beam0 wrote:
Nicolicous wrote:
how is the ramp function? slow from low to high?
In the OP it shows 6 seconds: *Stepless Dimming* *● In on status,Press 1 second to activate Stepless Dimming Mode* *-From moon to turbo need 6 seconds,release the switch can memorize the brightness* ... ... But I would also like someone to confirm this, how many seconds from lowest to highest, and visa-versa. And also does it blink/flash when it reaches the lowest and/or highest brightness? In post #30 Tom stated: "The ramping is klunky - not consistent" But I'm not clear on what he means exactly by that. Also if possible, please report if the MCPCB is Noctigon, as seen in the photo in post #8.

 

I doubt it will happen.

Nicolicous wrote:
Hey Freeme can you ask them to make the ramping faster (about 3 seconds from low to high and turbo/moon access). Will get 2 green if they meet my request. :D
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Besides ramping and the shortcuts from OFF, is there a group with regular modes, such as L-M-H ?

 

Also I don't understand from this (quote in the OP) exactly what is "mode 2" ?

freeme wrote:
● Quicky clicky 4times to get the Mode2,will strobe 4times,then you hold press to keep light on,when you release will light off.Quicky clicky 4times again to out off the Mode2,will strobe 2times

 

 

And the "4x clicks/mode 2" mystery continues...

charles lin wrote:
4X PRESS- TURBO MOMENTARY

Turbo Momentary? What does this mean exactly?

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PBWilson
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I think the “Turbo Momentary” is like the “Tactical” setting on the Q4 where the light remains on as long as you hold the button down. Press the button and it’s on turbo. Release it and it’s off. I guess you can signal that way.

Not sure about the other stuff.

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PBWilson wrote:
I think the “Turbo Momentary” is like the “Tactical” setting on the Q4 where the light remains on as long as you hold the button down. Press the button and it’s on turbo. Release it and it’s off. I guess you can signal that way.

Not sure about the other stuff.


Thanks, that makes sense, so in that mode you’d have nothing but the Turbo momentary.

And that’s what Freeme meant by _“then you hold press to keep light on,when you release will light off” _

I don’t have a Q8 so I didn’t know abput that mode, but it all makes sense now, thanks!

Still wondering about if there’s a L-M-H group, or is it just ramping only.

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

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Quote:
Still wondering about if there’s a L-M-H group, or is it just ramping only.

Nope, ramping mode only with shortcut to turbo using double click.
Starts on moonlight with single click while on ramping group.

I’m working on a video to demo it for clarification.

Thewrights11
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Can anyone confirm what cells work and what don’t? Need to know what to invest in before I pull the trigger.

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Compatible 26650 battery models:
Yes No
Keeppower 5200mAh Protected

Littokala 5000mAh (blue)

Littokala 5000mAh (black)

Rofis 5500mAh

IMALENT 5000mAh MRB-266P45

 

Thewrights11 wrote:
Can anyone confirm what cells work and what don't? Need to know what to invest in before I pull the trigger.
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Will a protected KeepPower work?

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Thewrights11 wrote:
Can anyone confirm what cells work and what don’t? Need to know what to invest in before I pull the trigger.

Any cell with a protection circuit is going to add to the length. Here’s an unprotected flat top in the Maeerxu. I’d be worried about crushing the springs with anything longer. I think it was made this way to keep the light as short as possible, and has low voltage protection so you don’t need protected cells. Just like the Emisar lights.

beam0
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RobertB wrote:
Thewrights11 wrote:
Can anyone confirm what cells work and what don’t? Need to know what to invest in before I pull the trigger.

Any cell with a protection circuit is going to add to the length. Here’s an unprotected flat top in the Maeerxu. I’d be worried about crushing the springs with anything longer. I think it was made this way to keep the light as short as possible, and has low voltage protection so you don’t need protected cells. Just like the Emisar lights.


Robert, exactly what unprotected flat top cell is that? Apparently there’s an issue with diameter, as the unprotected flat-top Littokala’s won’t fit (too wide).

My Lii-50A’s are 26.77 at their widest point.

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

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beam0 wrote:
RobertB wrote:
Thewrights11 wrote:
Can anyone confirm what cells work and what don’t? Need to know what to invest in before I pull the trigger.

Any cell with a protection circuit is going to add to the length. Here’s an unprotected flat top in the Maeerxu. I’d be worried about crushing the springs with anything longer. I think it was made this way to keep the light as short as possible, and has low voltage protection so you don’t need protected cells. Just like the Emisar lights.


Robert, exactly what unprotected flat top cell is that? Apparently there’s an issue with diameter, as the unprotected flat-top Littokala’s won’t fit (too wide).

My Lii-50A’s are 26.77 at their widest point.
!{width:55%}https://i.imgur.com/HUmS4FZ.jpg!

This is an iJoy 26650 purchased at Liionwholesale in Phoenixville, PA

This Aspire 26650 would work fine too. I think both the iJoy and the Aspire are made in the same factory.

I can’t imagine Littokala puts a wrapper on the cell that thick. Even a protected cell is going to be wider because of the copper connection strip and kapton tape running up the side of the cell under the wrapper.

My M8 measures 26.79mm ID.

And you can see how much longer a protected cell is. This is an Acebeam 5000mAh protected 26650

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Thanks Robert.

It’s splitting hairs but apparently your tube is .29mm wider than Dirty Pierre’s. If I get one like yours it should fit the Lii-50A just barely. Or even close to that ID will be easier to ream it out.

The Lii-50A’s measure 26.6mm most of the length, but there is a wider band about 3mm in height at the very top that’s 26.77

I-joy’s look pretty good but out of stock currently, but those and the Aspire are kind of expensive compared to what I paid for the Lii-50A’s

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

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beam0 wrote:
Thanks Robert.

It’s splitting hairs but apparently your tube is .29mm wider than Dirty Pierre’s. If I get one like yours it should fit the Lii-50A just barely. Or even close to that ID will be easier to ream it out.

The Lii-50A’s measure 26.6mm most of the length, but there is a wider band about 3mm in height at the very top that’s 26.77

I-joy’s look pretty good but out of stock currently, but those and the Aspire are kind of expensive compared to what I paid for the Lii-50A’s

Well the iJoy and aspire batteries are true 30 amp batteries, and would get to you the day after you ordered it being that you’re in Pennsylvania as well. Personally I don’t buy batteries from China we have them all here in the US.

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Except for a few from Japan aren’t all batteries made in China? Just because something is from a specific region doesn’t mean they are all junk. Also, I don’t think any of us need 30 amp batteries for a simple single emitter light. Lii-50A’s are pretty good batteries at a fraction of the price of others.

To each there own I guess.

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How would you ream out the tube?

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Thewrights11 wrote:
Except for a few from Japan aren’t all batteries made in China? Just because something is from a specific region doesn’t mean they are all junk. Also, I don’t think any of us need 30 amp batteries for a simple single emitter light. Lii-50A’s are pretty good batteries at a fraction of the price of others.

To each there own I guess.

Don’t put words in my mouth. I never said anything was “junk”. The person I was replying to (not you), lives in Pennsylvania where Liionwholesale is also located, and commented he could save 4 weeks of shipping time by buying them locally. But if he wants to save a couple dollars and wait 4 weeks, go for it.

I would say most are made in China for sure. But since none of us can buy directly from any manufacturer, we have to buy from a retailer. My point being, if you are from the US where every type and brand battery is readily available, and shipping is only a couple days away, why buy from a Chinese retailer, wait 4 weeks, risk getting fakes, risk not getting them at all, only to save 2 dollars. Case in point was the 30Q button top group buy for the BLF Q8 not too long ago.

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RobertB wrote:
beam0 wrote:
Thanks Robert.

It’s splitting hairs but apparently your tube is .29mm wider than Dirty Pierre’s. If I get one like yours it should fit the Lii-50A just barely. Or even close to that ID will be easier to ream it out.

The Lii-50A’s measure 26.6mm most of the length, but there is a wider band about 3mm in height at the very top that’s 26.77

I-joy’s look pretty good but out of stock currently, but those and the Aspire are kind of expensive compared to what I paid for the Lii-50A’s

Well the iJoy and aspire batteries are true 30 amp batteries, and would get to you the day after you ordered it being that you’re in Pennsylvania as well. Personally I don’t buy batteries from China we have them all here in the US.

Thanks Robert, yes Liion already is currently my #1 place I buy batteries. As you pointed out I get them really fast, (about 2 days!) and I can rest assured I’m not getting fakes, plus their prices are usually as low or within a few dollars of buying them from China. And Jon from LiionWholesale is helpful member here as well. http://budgetlightforum.com/user/23542

I recently received an order from Liion of Button top 30Q’s Aspire 18350’s Efest 18500’s, and an Imren 14500

.
I do however occasionally buy batteries from China for these reasons and under these conditions:

1. Special deal pricing on a particular cell from a known supplier along with positive feedback for the cell on BLF.
2. A particular cell that’s unavailable at USA shops (Liion, IMR, MTN, Illumn etc.) from a known supplier along with positive feedback on BLF.

.
There’s still some risk with it, but I’ve had great luck so far following the conditions above, as was the case with the Lii-50A’s I bought from Gearbest; a great “special deal” price, and great reviews and feedback on BLF, and the cells I received tested favorably.

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

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Thewrights11 wrote:
Except for a few from Japan aren’t all batteries made in China? Just because something is from a specific region doesn’t mean they are all junk. Also, I don’t think any of us need 30 amp batteries for a simple single emitter light. Lii-50A’s are pretty good batteries at a fraction of the price of others.

To each there own I guess.

Apparently you misread his statement. Robert was referring to buying Chinese made batteries from USA suppliers, to avoid getting fakes and long shipping times. He wasn’t saying the batteries were made in USA or that Chinese made batteries are junk. Pretty much all of the lights we buy are made in China, so the “specific region” line of thought you alluded to wouldn’t even make sense.

It’s well documented here on BLF that buying cells from suppliers in China can sometimes be a crapshoot as far as getting fake cells (re-wrapped / re-labeled / mis-labeled) It’s a fairly common practice among unscrupulous sellers anywhere, but more prevalent from Chinese sellers. After all China is the worlds leader in fake / counterfeit goods, and that is also a well documented fact, and pretty much common knowledge (unless you’ve been living under a rock)

.
I’m always more than happy paying a few bucks more to get my cells from a reputable US supplier such as LiionWholesale. They take extra steps to ensure their cells are genuine, such as buying directly from the manufacture and random testing. The prices can be the same or sometimes even less than ordering from Chinese based shops.

I only mentioned the I-joy’s and Aspire’s were kind of expensive compared to what I paid for the Lii-50A’s, not that they were overpriced. I do agree totally with your statement “Lii-50A’s are pretty good batteries at a fraction of the price of others”

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

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Thewrights11 wrote:
How would you ream out the tube?
Haven’t ever actually tried it yet but here’s my idea’s:

.
1. A 30mm Flap sanding wheel and a bit extender:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Shank-Cylindrical-Emery-Abrasive/dp/B06WVK...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Promotion-5-Pcs-30mm-Head-Metal-Shank-Ab...

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-17103-Standard-Extension/dp/B000...

I think the 30mm flap wheel would have enough slack to stuff into the nearly 27mm tube, then working it with the drill back and forth evenly through the tube (tube mounted in a vise) we’re talking about a very small amount of material to be removed here, about 1/4 ~ 1/2 mm.

The bit extender may not be necessary if you honed from each end separately but it would be better to ensure a more even surface, especially if you already have one to use. Also probably need a drill with good torque or a (plug in) electric drill.

.
.
2. A 1 1/16” (26.99mm) or 27mm drill bit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Morse-1-1-16-Drill-Bit-1-1-16-Silver-Deming-Bit...

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Straight-Diameter-Drilling-Electric/dp/B00...

Expensive to go out and buy a bit for this purpose but I’m pretty sure I already happen to have one.

It would be hard to use a regular drill bit like this if it was anything more than a very small amount of material to be removed. I have a drill press and drill-press vise to use for this, which would be the safest way to go this route.

.
.
3. A small brake cylinder hone: Again only may be possible because of the very small amount of material that needs removed, these aren’t made to remove metal, only to break the “glaze”. The brake cylinders might be a harder alloy than a flashlight tube, so my thought was with coarse stones it could possibly work to actually remove a small amount of material from a soft aluminum tube, this method’s been mentioned here on the forum before.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A4AI9HC/ref=dp_cerb_3

.
.
There’s also the “wrapping the dowel with sandpaper or emery” method.

I think method #1 above would be easiest/cheapest, or #2 if you already have the drill bit. Maybe someone else has some ideas?

"Over 2000000 hours (about 200 years) standby time"  (DQG Tiny 4th)

"27,157 results for zoomable flashlight" (ebay)

 

 

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