I have had this problem for a couple years, but stopped using after 3-4 months of owning it until now. Now I want to fix the issue.
The main problem I am having is when the button to turn on the light is pressed, the light is supposed to cycle from normal beam, to strobe.
However now, it seems to be “stuck” on strobe.
Secondly, I’m not sure if this can be fixed…but I noticed that when the battery cap is completely screwed on the battery seems to drain until dead. Leaving me to slightly unscrew the cap.
Oh dear , it looks that you have a faulty driver !!! As I remember , the threads on this light are anodized so , when you unscrew it a little , you get a lock out. This and the fact that the modes are stuck in strobe ,leads me to the stated conclusion...
On a second thought , due to the fact that this light has particular tail switch , forward-clicky and reverse-clicky at the same time , I'll suggest you to take it out , clean it fairly with a contact cleaner and check it with an instrument..., maybe you are lucky !
Anyway , the parasitic drain on this light should be in the range of few microamps...
You have there a retaining ring ,with two holes in it .With a needle nose pliers inserted in holes , turn counter clock wise , and the retaining ring is gone unscrew , revealing the plate where the switch is soldered. Maybe a great force has to be applied . If the retaining ring is coming out very easy , there could be the problem ..,an imperfect contact to the ground ( the body of the light ) .Check all the soldered points , including the spring under the alloy central contact , the switch on-off positions , with an instrument , to have VERY low resistance in on position , and NO resistance in off position . If is needed , resolder all the points , then clean all the remaining residues , the switch and the plate with a proper contact cleaner ( if the switch itself has to be cleaned , carefully , check if the contact cleaner is safe for the plastic body of the switch !..,I ruined once a good switch because the cleaner I used reacted with the plastic !...) . All these done , reassemble the tail cap , in reverse order of disassembling , and tight the retaining ring as much as you can ( this tight is the one where the parasitic resistance is the biggest ). Check with an instrument if the switch is working properly , on-off positions and momentary ( the probes of the instrument between the central alloy piece and the retaining ring ). If you are lucky , and the driver is still alive , this could be your problem solved. the chances are 50-50 !... Let me know how it worked , o.k.?
I realized these things have a lifetime warranty. I think rather than attempting what could void the warranty, I’ll just send it back to SOG. Thanks for the help though.