High power UV

Okay it’s really just an emitter swap. I used this led in a DQG v3 host.

I think I remember Dale having trouble removing the led pcb so I removed everything from the head and heated the whole head to reflow the leds.

After a quick clean with alcohol it looked good but I had to go back and heat it again because there was an open circuit on the board somewhere. Also I got the +/- around the wrong way again :person_facepalming:

SUCCESS!

The violet colour seemed to screw with my phone camera because the following were shot in the same ambient light conditions. There is a ring around the handle of the draw that I sprayed with glow paint but the product was really cheap and nasty and hardly had any glow power in it.

I also have a UV pass filter, much to big for this host though :cry: I don’t recall the exact specs of this thing but it seemed to accommodate my phone better. This is closer to what I actually see.

The difference between using the filter and not is interesting. With the filter is less visible blue/violet but also seeming less overall output.

I will need to wait for it to get dark before seeing the real potential of this :sunglasses:

what wavelength UV leds are you using?

that looks like one bright UV-light! :smiley:

the Cutter link refers to a 395nm led. The filter looks like what may be a ZWB2 filter? In that case it is not useful, the transmission peak is about 365nm, at 395nm it blocks 90%.

395nm leds need no filtering, unlike the 365nm leds they do not have waste light elswhere in the visible spectrum.

You could have used 365nm uv led, it has very little blue/violet spill. Actually it’s spill looks more like white light.

I use it for currency detection and it works much better than 395nm.

365nM would have been nice but I was trying to keep costs down $5 for each led I used. Cutter only has 1 available 365nM led and it costs$150 for one.

You’re a smart guy djozz. I tracked down the filter specs, it is a ZWB3

So it’s roughly cutting the output by less than half.

What protective eyewear do you recommend for when using high power UV lights?

Lol, just like white led lights I just don’t look down the barrel :blush:

It could still reflect a portion of that light, although it’s not that intense.

150$ for a single led? :open_mouth: I bought mine at 4$ each from aliexpress.

The real question is what is the stain on draw door? lol Fire hosed it? Been playing helicopters? :stuck_out_tongue:

I mean no offence when I ask this but we’re you able to verify you got 365nM ? AliExpress doesn’t give me a whole lot of confidence.

I got some more rough phone pics. I recently got my daughter a decent camera… see if I can train her up to be my photographer :wink:

I tried to gather a few colourful things together. It appears I don’t really have a lot of fluoro stuff. Some of the colours I would have expected to pop more but they didn’t. I really have no idea how that works. The difference between the turbo and mid pics below indicate that the camera is getting washed out to me (is that the right term?)

Turbo

Mid

Turbo with filter

Some glow powders and tape

Mid

I think this was Turbo or high with filter

And just plain glow (no uv light)

Be nice when I find a real world use for this…

There are some decent 365nm LEDs on mouser with a 3535 XP type footprint, price is still double what you paid for these though. Specifically talking about the Lite-on 365nm UV and the Luminus SST-10 365nm UV.

Those cheap 365nm leds from aliexpress are between 365 and 370 nm, so close enough. The cheap features are that the output is ok but not great, and that they produce a white/yellow-ish waste light as well, that obscures the fluorescence that you usually want the UV for. Nichia 365nm leds are the best for producing almost no visible light.

A high output and fairly cheap 365nm led (more 365nm light than most Nichia’s) that does produce some visible light is the LiteOn 365nm led (available at Mouser and tme.eu). The visible light can be filtered out with a ZWB2 filter.

Btw, the plastic optic from the DQGtiny26650 likely absorbs a lot of 365nm light, so it was wise to go for 395nm. :slight_smile:

I was aware that some optics can interfere with the uv but i’m not fully versed with what goes on.

Normal TIRs will be absorb most 365nm and get burned

i had an itch for high power uv, build this one.

I also have the same question.

Do those cheap anti-UVA/UVB ‘polarized sunglasses’ (many such sunglasses/night vision glasses in Banggood, for instance) offer some protection against UV light?

depends a bit on what wavelength. The 395nm light from the light in the OP needs yellow /amber glasses, the 365nm leds can be be blocked quite well with common polycarbonate glasses (most ‘impact’ glasses used in workshops and labs are made of polycarbonate).

A quick test is always: shine the UV-source onto a sheet of copier paper, all UV sources should make it fluorescence bright blue. Then place the glasses in between light source and paper and see how much fluorescence is leftover, good glasses make it almost gone.

I use uv strips on my boat for night fishing and some of the strips from China last about a month don’t know about individual leds anf how they will hold up in long run.

I used a cheap $5 pair of yellow-lensed safety glasses from Wal Mart with my 395 UV light and they worked very well. They effectively blocked the majority of the visible blue making fluorescence pop much more vividly. Even dark items were more dramatic, such as leaves that fluoresced red, and tiny mushrooms and other fungus that was washed out in the blue. They also passed the paper test Djozz mentioned; shining through the lenses would eliminate fluorescence, and my eyes could feel the difference too.