[POLL] Does your recent UT01 have ON / OFF problems?

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arow55
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Seems right very warm. Brighter too. Nice. Will try the programming on old one.

arow55
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My new one showed problem after changing battery again. Took tailcap off one that never had problem and switched and the problem switched from new light to old one. So tailcap has to be culprit.

Lexel
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arow55 wrote:
My new one showed problem after changing battery again. Took tailcap off one that never had problem and switched and the problem switched from new light to old one. So tailcap has to be culprit.

you have to be sure the tail cap makes contact, some batteries are too long
a fix is remove the tail board and sand it down glue in again

arow55
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Lexel wrote:
arow55 wrote:
My new one showed problem after changing battery again. Took tailcap off one that never had problem and switched and the problem switched from new light to old one. So tailcap has to be culprit.

you have to be sure the tail cap makes contact, some batteries are too long
a fix is remove the tail board and sand it down glue in again


Used same batteries just switched tailcaps and problem moved from one light to other.
arow55
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Put wire at bottom of tailcap as in other thread and fixed. Also got it to programming mode with help of video on blf.

kramer5150
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44% failure rate (for those who take the time to surf here). Thats ugly… the failure rate is, not those who surf BLF.

vwpieces
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But what if I have 3 that work and I can only vote once? And this is my situation.

Also if someone buys 2, one works one don’t and they voted yes?

Hardly a way to track the percentages.

Tumbleweed48
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I’m quite certain the failure rate is actually less than 44%, as most people who have good ones probably ignore the poll. Personally I have four, of which one is less than perfect, but still in daily service as I try to figure out its occasional quirks. I’ve thoroughly run the other three through their paces, and they work as advertised. These were acquired in three separate orders across a month or so, so I doubt there was a ‘good batch / bad batch’ effect.

All the same, the failure rate is obviously very high and undoubtedly why the price is $9 instead of $23. I think they’ve chosen to unload them at fire sale prices rather than scrap them – and that is probably the wrong choice for the sake of the brand. The name “UTORCH” will at least be suspect from here on in and it wouldn’t surprise me to see the trademark disappear altogether, as the owners might decide to continue business under another banner.

Frankly, I like them so much that if I thought I could keep my ‘batting average’ up, I’d order four more…..but I think I’d better not push my luck.

arow55
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I’d take a chance at $10 and try cw.

Pete7874
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So, after about a month of ownership and fairly light use, the switch has become somewhat flaky on my UT01, but it’s not the issue described in the OP/poll. Basically the switch will randomly not respond to the press like it used to, regardless if the light is on or off.

However, when I push up on the switch while pressing it, I can get it to respond most of the time.

kramer5150
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vwpieces wrote:
But what if I have 3 that work and I can only vote once? And this is my situation.

Also if someone buys 2, one works one don’t and they voted yes?

Hardly a way to track the percentages.

Doh!! I didn’t think of it that way.

Gadget_Nick
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So the 2 faulty ones out of the 4 that has the “turned off won’t turn on” issue are both NW 4000K The other 2 CW 6500k are working fine for now. Does tint has to do with anything? Or is it just a coincidence. What tint do you guys have that has the issue?

Love gadgets

kramer5150
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Gadget_Nick wrote:
So the 2 faulty ones out of the 4 that has the “turned off won’t turn on” issue are both NW 4000K The other 2 CW 6500k are working fine for now. Does tint has to do with anything? Or is it just a coincidence. What tint do you guys have that has the issue?

I don’t think the tint has a direct correlation. But FWIW, with my December 2016 unit is neutral white.

legopacific
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No problems here. At $10 from Gearbest, it’s been a solid little light. Works fine on Eneloops or alkalines. Based on the recommendations here, I picked up some Efest 650 (purple, high drain) that fit perfectly.

patmurris
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I’ve got four of them lined up for Christmas gifts. All loaded with alka and they seem to work fine, but with all the above comments i’m worried i’ll be gifting lemons… and it’s too late to order four other lights. Facepalm

I have a bunch of new SK68 clones i could give away, but that’s not a fair replacement for the nice UT01… But since i’ve also planned to gift four Eagle Eye X2R with them, it could be considered as an extra. Flat Stare

eas
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My failure rate just jumped to 100%.

I tried swapping end caps between my two NW UT01 lights. Before I did, one only switched on once with a 14500 until being “power cycled” but it worked fine with an NiMH cell. The other one worked properly with a any cell.

Well, now, neither of them switch on more than once without being power cycled, no matter what tailcap I’m using.

It’s infuriating. It does make me think there is something mechanical involved.

This non-political signature is not non-political.

Tumbleweed48
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Before you give up, try the ‘copper wire loop inside the tailcap’ trick. I cured one that way. I’ve measured a few, and some tail caps are a hair too long – the ano on the lip contacts the tube before the circuit can be completed.
Some of mine have enough gap between tailcap and the tube flange to run my thumbnail through, others have no gap at all.

Pete7874
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My second UT01 just arrived – so far no issues.

CJ Avlis
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Mine didn’t work, then it did,and then it didn’t, and now it does…sorta.

Unboxed, ogled and fondled for a few then threw in a freshly charged Eneloop Pro…click…aaand nothing!

Ok, no need to panic, I’ve done some homework and half expected this. Disassemble, inspect and clean a bit. Small burr on batt tube edge and a small bit of gunk here and there.

For some reason?? I decide to reverse batt tube. I had Lithium primary handy so popped that in also.BINGO, we have light!

Played with it for about 1/2 hour, then had to do some adulting. A few hours later, popped out the Lithium and tried another Eneloop…NOTHING. Put the same Lithium back in aaand nothing.

Disassemble and inspect again. Reverse batt tube, check pill/tight, check switch/firm & very clicky…reinstall L91 and it works again for a while…then wont cycle modes consistently.

Try another NiMH…nothing! Both sets of NiMH’s came off the chargers Christmas eve in prep for the storm.

Popped back in the charger, made a vid and opened a ticket with GB.

Eneloops are 1 year old with about 1 dozen cycles. Laada’s are about 1 week old with 2 cycles…charged to 1.48-1.49 with Opus BT-C3100.

Of course I couldn’t stop so why not try paperclip/wire mod? Aaand we have light again…with both types of cells.

Funny thing is that I didnt try this earlier because I measured all the cells with calipers and there was no more than .002” difference between them.

Not sure what Im gonna do with the ticket, its hard to have faith in this light with all thats written about it.

Oh, big surprise…GB just replied to my ticket which was opened when I sent email to support (with attatched video) asking me to email a video to the address I first emailed.

CJ Avlis
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No time for flashlights today.

To GB’s credit…just got email (48 hrs)with 3 options

All involved me keeping light
1 send new light
2 store/wallet credit of full cost
3 credit of full cost to PP

I’ll fool with light tomorrow and make a decision…either #3 or drop the ticket.

varbos
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I have two which I got in December.

The switches on both work fine so far. I will wait a couple of weeks before voting.

One of them has to be screwed together quite tight before the unanodized end of the battery tube makes electric contact with both tailcap and driver.
This light also puts a dent on the negative end of a Ladda 1000, same as T-boons picture. But not a Ladda 2450.

The other does not have these issue, a normal amount of tightness is sufficient.

I did not test either with a 14500 because
a) I don’t want to jinx them (maybe higher voltage is causing some issues)
b) I bought specifically for AA

Boro
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Jerommel wrote:
A poll about the recent batch of Utorch UT01 many of us have bought.
Many of them won’t switch ON after switching OFF, unless you loosen and tighten the tail cap first (breaking the circuit).

It doesn’t seem to be a switch problem, but an electronic problem.

I was wondering about this. Mine UT01 failed soon after use.
Threw away, problem solved.
My Manker E11 works well and has been used much more frequently.
Go figure.
Although, the tail cap in the UT01 is double spring unlike the E11.

Lazy-R-us
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I got a UT01 recently from one of the flash sales. seems to be working fine.

Lazy-R-us

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