[MOD] Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50 to 4x Nichia E21A

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clemence
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Agro wrote:
I’d like to understand why did you gain that 27%, but I fail so far… How did you modify the optics? Do I understand correctly that the emitting surface doesn’t fully fit in the lens opening? I guess opening is what you call aperture? Assuming yes…there are just a fairly small corners that are under the flats. Even if light from them went straight through the optics without any loss…that doesn’t seem to be 27% of LES…and the OEM TIR doesn’t black it out, it should pass most of it forward as well.

I’m also wondering how this is happening. Unless my TASI 632A light meter messed up with the reading. Member Bob_mcbob got the same improvement much earlier than me. He got whooping increase too using the same optic I used on his Tiara and Wizard. But his gain was not as dramatic as these E21A.
Measured many times and got consistent results.

Yes the LES doesn’t fit inside the lens opening (aperture). The optic sits at 0,025mm above the LEDs. The other logical answer is the narrower emission angle of E21A.

- Clemence

SKV89
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Clemence, that Armytek Wizard Pro w/ 4xE21A beam looks fantastic! Can you sell them modded?

clemence
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SKV89 wrote:
Clemence, that Armytek Wizard Pro w/ 4xE21A beam looks fantastic! Can you sell them modded?

Currently (several hours ago) I only have three of them, but they’re all sold out before even hit the store. I have incoming Tiaras waiting at the custom.

- Clemence

nobeltnium
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I wonder how the non-pro perform. I don’t know why there aren’t the normal version review and mods

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The_Driver
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nobeltnium wrote:
I wonder how the non-pro perform. I don’t know why there aren’t the normal version review and mods

I just recently modded a non-pro Wizard because I want to use 3V LEDs. The process of modding it is the same.

The biggest difference are the missing LEDs under the button cap. This lead to them using the main LED for the low-voltage warning which I find dangerous when you are using it for running for example (it starts to blink on and off a few times).
The other difference is the U.I. It doesn’t have the two mode groups in addition to the turbo, only one.

nobeltnium
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The_Driver wrote:

I just recently modded a non-pro Wizard because I want to use 3V LEDs. The process of modding it it the same.

The biggest difference are the missing LEDs under the button cap. This lead to them using the main LED for the low-voltage warning which I find dangerous when you are using it for running for example (it starts to blink on and off a few times).
The other difference is the U.I. It doesn’t have the two mode groups in addition to the turbo, only one.


I am too using the non-pro version so i know it characteristic, but i want to know does it have pot in the inside, the real lumen, does it stand true for what the company say it is. How is its efficiency, ….things like that. Will you share your modding work pics on the wizard noob :D?

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The_Driver
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nobeltnium wrote:
The_Driver wrote:

I just recently modded a non-pro Wizard because I want to use 3V LEDs. The process of modding it it the same.

The biggest difference are the missing LEDs under the button cap. This lead to them using the main LED for the low-voltage warning which I find dangerous when you are using it for running for example (it starts to blink on and off a few times).
The other difference is the U.I. It doesn’t have the two mode groups in addition to the turbo, only one.


I am too using the non-pro version so i know it characteristic, but i want to know does it have pot in the inside, the real lumen, does it stand true for what the company say it is. How is its efficiency, ….things like that. Will you share your modding work pics on the wizard noob :D?

The driver is potted. This is the same for all Wizards. I don’t know the efficiency, but it’s probably fine. Only the the XHP50 Wizard is inefficient when using a 12V LED.

Here are the pics of my Wizard XHP50 mod. The only difference to the non-pro Wizard is the LED (text is in German). Everythink else looks identical.

nobeltnium
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The_Driver][quote=nobeltnium wrote:

The driver is potted. This is the same for all Wizards. I don’t know the efficiency, but it’s probably fine. Only the the XHP50 Wizard is inefficient when using a 12V LED.

Here are the pics of my Wizard XHP50 mod. The only difference to the non-pro Wizard is the LED (text is in German). Everythink else looks identical.

I already saw this and didn’t reconise it was you :). Still a little upset for not seing the nonpro version mod making process.
Everything is identical like the driver, the thermal sensor and so on? So because the nonpro version use the 3V LED so the efficiency is ok right? God what a relief

Ich freue mich sehr dass ich nicht die pro version gekauft habe Party

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clemence
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The older (non pro, non ribbed) version driver is the same as the newer Tiara except for the UI. It’s more efficient than the XHP50 version especially in Turbo mode but not as bright. The real output is in 700ish lumens for the older XPL.

- Clemence

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clemence wrote:
The older (non pro, non ribbed) version driver is the same as the newer Tiara except for the UI. It’s more efficient than the XHP50 version especially in Turbo mode but not as bright. The real output is in 700ish lumens for the older XPL.

- Clemence


Are we looking at 700ish lumens peak or average number?

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clemence
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nobeltnium wrote:
clemence wrote:
The older (non pro, non ribbed) version driver is the same as the newer Tiara except for the UI. It’s more efficient than the XHP50 version especially in Turbo mode but not as bright. The real output is in 700ish lumens for the older XPL.

- Clemence


Are we looking at 700ish lumens peak or average number?

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1361467#comment-1361467

nobeltnium
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clemence wrote:
nobeltnium wrote:
clemence wrote:
The older (non pro, non ribbed) version driver is the same as the newer Tiara except for the UI. It’s more efficient than the XHP50 version especially in Turbo mode but not as bright. The real output is in 700ish lumens for the older XPL.

- Clemence


Are we looking at 700ish lumens peak or average number?

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1361467#comment-1361467


Thanks man. Oh one more thing, does any one notice how the nonpro version will blink everytime you bump the taipcap (e.g stick the magnet tail onto a metal object). I believe this happen because the light use only 1 spring in the battery compartment, but why don’t this happen to the pro one?

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clemence
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Its easy to fix. Pull the spring a little to make it longer.

nobeltnium
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I did, no help. I also tried protected cell wich is longer and still can’t fix it. I also tried 6 different tail cap with thesame result. And this happen to every nonpro light but not the pro version

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nobeltnium][quote=The_Driver wrote:
nobeltnium wrote:

The driver is potted. This is the same for all Wizards. I don’t know the efficiency, but it’s probably fine. Only the the XHP50 Wizard is inefficient when using a 12V LED.

Here are the pics of my Wizard XHP50 mod. The only difference to the non-pro Wizard is the LED (text is in German). Everythink else looks identical.

I already saw this and didn’t reconise it was you :). Still a little upset for not seing the nonpro version mod making process.
Everything is identical like the driver, the thermal sensor and so on? So because the nonpro version use the 3V LED so the efficiency is ok right? God what a relief

Ich freue mich sehr dass ich nicht die pro version gekauft habe Party

See here . No reason do be upset anymore. Wink

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The_Driver wrote:

See here . No reason do be upset anymore. Wink

Super gei Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile

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virencelights
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so is turbo OTF 1200 Lumens?.
E21A x 4. 6500
thanks.

Virence Custom Built; ArmyTek Viking Pro E21A 6500k 9080 Quadtrix, Jetbeam AAA 9080 E21A 9080 5700k, Jetbeam AAA Nichia HCRI Red Led.

clientequator
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How did you modify your optic to make such more light output? Did you drill it to make more space?

Also I notice you use different led piece for your flashlight, use 4000k and 5000k of two each; why do you do that and does it make better overall tint and CRI? but does it make light color look odd (diagonal different color) or is it not possible to see after use optic to diffuse?

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What are the dimensions of the glass lens of the Wizard?

virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)

 

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clientequator wrote:
How did you modify your optic to make such more light output? Did you drill it to make more space?

Also I notice you use different led piece for your flashlight, use 4000k and 5000k of two each; why do you do that and does it make better overall tint and CRI? but does it make light color look odd (diagonal different color) or is it not possible to see after use optic to diffuse?


I did that because there wasn’t 4500K pure CCT. It works fine and many of our friends like it too. Now we know that mixing CCTs can also move the tint above/below BBL to fine tune your preferred tint (not CCT). If you want to see how a mixed CCTs looks like you can check Steel_1024, SKV89, Texas_Ace, Ryzbor, and many other’s beam shots.

Ryzbor wrote:
What are the dimensions of the glass lens of the Wizard?

19,8mm x 1mm. Get it cheap via Kaidomain

OptOsolis wrote:
so is turbo OTF 1200 Lumens?.
E21A x 4. 6500
thanks.

A bit more than that. Ask Bob_McBob, he just built another 6500K E21A Wizard Pro. I have none left to test

[Clemence]

virencelights
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so what driver is in Clemence’s Wizard Pro’s E21A’s that were Built?.
Boost?.

thanks.

Virence Custom Built; ArmyTek Viking Pro E21A 6500k 9080 Quadtrix, Jetbeam AAA 9080 E21A 9080 5700k, Jetbeam AAA Nichia HCRI Red Led.

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Boost.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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thank you great Sword!.

BlueSwordM wrote:
Boost.

Virence Custom Built; ArmyTek Viking Pro E21A 6500k 9080 Quadtrix, Jetbeam AAA 9080 E21A 9080 5700k, Jetbeam AAA Nichia HCRI Red Led.

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Clemence, was the stock MCPCB easy to remove? I tried removing the MCPCB on my Prime C2 Pro. It doesn’t have retaining screws like the Wizard Pro, instead the positive and negative wires from the driver come through the screw holes. I got it tot move slightly but it just didn’t want to come out.

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

clemence
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Clemence, was the stock MCPCB easy to remove? I tried removing the MCPCB on my Prime C2 Pro. It doesn’t have retaining screws like the Wizard Pro, instead the positive and negative wires from the driver come through the screw holes. I got it tot move slightly but it just didn’t want to come out.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57224

[Clemence]

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Thank you!

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

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In the Wizard Pro, does the optic sit in a centering ring? Or does the lip around the top of the optic rest on the head? My Prime C2 Pro has a centering ring for the optic. A straight Yajiamei optic swap was possible and the result is a much better beam.

My Tiara C1 Pro is on the way and I will try out a VR16SP4m E17A mod. If the results are good, I will order a Wizard Pro and try a VR16SP4 v2 E21A mod. It all depends on the optic sits in the Wizard Pro.

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

clemence
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
In the Wizard Pro, does the optic sit in a centering ring? Or does the lip around the top of the optic rest on the head? My Prime C2 Pro has a centering ring for the optic. A straight Yajiamei optic swap was possible and the result is a much better beam.

My Tiara C1 Pro is on the way and I will try out a VR16SP4m E17A mod. If the results are good, I will order a Wizard Pro and try a VR16SP4 v2 E21A mod. It all depends on the optic sits in the Wizard Pro.

In Wizard/Tiara, the lens hanging and centered by the head, not the LED/MCPCB. Modify the optic to fit 4x E21A. Shown in the thread below:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1318830#comment-1318830
You have to make at least 0,2mm clearance above quadtrix E21A because the hole/cavity in the lens (be it OEM or Yajiamei) is not large enough to encase all those E21A. The lens will also compressed a little after you put the stainless steel bezel back, risking to crush the fragile LED beneath..

[Clemence]

KevinZA1988
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What about this optic?

| LED Lens CREE XML T5/T6/U2 Lenses Diameter 20mm 20,38,60 deg Bead surface 5050 lens, XLamp XM-L Lamp lens
https://a.aliexpress.com/0UxdItAG3

It is made for a 5050 LED and according to VR16SP4M v2 schematics the quad array is 4.4×4.4mm. The legs on these optics are 1mm long and can be modified slightly to sit even closer to the LED’s.

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

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I have an og run Wizard Pro V3 (XHP50 Warm) complete with a cracked lens that was very common on these original run Pros – still works fine though. @clemence or anyone else still modding these for a E21As?

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