Astrolux MF03 - new pictures + video

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Mindaugass
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Wow! Interesting.

Theodore41
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What about the cooling?

DENGOH
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I was thinking will it be mixing LED yesterday… what a Mr. hindsight I am.
Great! Flood and Throw at the same time.

cool i'll see you when you get there

djozz
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A 30Klumen light must dissipate a huge amount of heat and care must be taken in getting it away from the leds. In the design pictured in the OP there is some nice deep fins (but only a fraction of the surface area needed to dissipate the close to 200W of heat, as all big-lumen lights this light needs to stepdown fast) but they neglected the most important thing with these power levels: spreading the heat over the body as fast as possible so that the heat can actually get to those fins (and further over the body). You need a heat highway and they made a bottleneck just under the leds. The result is unneeded fast heating up near the leds and shorter time in Turbo. In my view they can buy significant turbo-time if they sacrifice some finning near the led-shelf for body-material, like this:

Jtm94
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Interesting light… not sure where exactly it’s going, but it’s going somewhere.

Maybe they’ve found the secret heat dissipation we’ve all been waiting for. Shocked

Lexel
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djozz wrote:
A 30Klumen light must dissipate a huge amount of heat and care must be taken in getting it away from the leds. In the design pictured in the OP there is some nice deep fins (but only a fraction of the surface area needed to dissipate the close to 200W of heat, as all big-lumen lights this light needs to stepdown fast) but they neglected the most important thing with these power levels: spreading the heat over the body as fast as possible so that the heat can actually get to those fins (and further over the body). You need a heat highway and they made a bottleneck just under the leds. The result is unneeded fast heating up near the leds and shorter time in Turbo. In my view they can buy significant turbo-time if they sacrifice some finning near the led-shelf for body-material, like this:


as it has a 2S/4P battery compartment the active heat path at the base of the shelf has at least a diameter of 45mm, this is well enough to conduct 1000W of heat, the fins are really thick, no need to widen the head as you show

the LEDs wont be sittingh at the edge of the light like the X80, head is bigger and less LEDs, so they more more to center

JasonWW
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This once sexy light just got a whole lot ugly.

How are you supposed to turn it on with an overhand or reverse grip with the light by your shoulder? This is how I use my L6, but this light has a weird finger cutout preventing this.

The ugly grenade style battery tube. The 4 ugly flat cutouts on the battery tube. The big, diagonal slices on the head. The screws holding the switch cover in place.

What happened to the sexy looks of the earlier MF01 and MF02? Did they hire the designer that Haikelite fired after he designed their MT03 and MT07? I see a lot of similarities.

I know they are trying to save weight by cutting a lot of material out, but geez, don’t turn it into a ugly monstrosity only a few will want to buy. So far these teaser pics make the Imalent it’s competing against look like a beauty queen.

IDK, I sure seem grumpy for some reason.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

9 NarsilM user videos including GT
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

DENGOH
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Can we have options of 8 xhp35 hi?

cool i'll see you when you get there

Theodore41
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DENGOH wrote:
Can we have options of 8 xhp35 hi?

The Acebeam X65 has five of them and gives 12,000 lumens plus 423,000 candelas.
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DENGOH wrote:
Can we have options of 8 xhp35 hi?

 

we will see...

find all available items in this list

i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$ Wink

find a short description about my idea here

 

if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!

DENGOH
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Theodore41 wrote:
DENGOH wrote:
Can we have options of 8 xhp35 hi?

The Acebeam X65 has five of them and gives 12,000 lumens plus 423,000 candelas.

Ya, imagine 16000 lumens 600kcd, continuously.

cool i'll see you when you get there

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M4D M4X wrote:

DENGOH wrote:
Can we have options of 8 xhp35 hi?

 


we will see…


… sounds like a MF04 Wink
DENGOH
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Let’s discuss how much is too much for kcd? Do we want to use binocular to see so far. The answer is yes, please make it shoot the farthest as possible.
When I play with 450kcd, I am worried I shine on people at distance unknowingly because I can’t see clearly anymore. So everyone please use our big toy responsibly. I am thinking to bring my binoculars to be safe.

cool i'll see you when you get there

djozz
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Lexel wrote:
djozz wrote:
A 30Klumen light must dissipate a huge amount of heat and care must be taken in getting it away from the leds. In the design pictured in the OP there is some nice deep fins (but only a fraction of the surface area needed to dissipate the close to 200W of heat, as all big-lumen lights this light needs to stepdown fast) but they neglected the most important thing with these power levels: spreading the heat over the body as fast as possible so that the heat can actually get to those fins (and further over the body). You need a heat highway and they made a bottleneck just under the leds. The result is unneeded fast heating up near the leds and shorter time in Turbo. In my view they can buy significant turbo-time if they sacrifice some finning near the led-shelf for body-material, like this:


as it has a 2S/4P battery compartment the active heat path at the base of the shelf has at least a diameter of 45mm, this is well enough to conduct 1000W of heat, the fins are really thick, no need to widen the head as you show

the LEDs wont be sittingh at the edge of the light like the X80, head is bigger and less LEDs, so they more more to center


I’m sorry that I do not I understand that calculation, especially why the battery configuration matters, I just see 200W of heat that is generated at the front part of the head, that either stays where it is or it goes somewhere else and thus keeps the head temperature a bit cooler for a bit longer time. And the little practical experience that I have with these power levels is that to funnel 200W to elsewhere it needs a large aluminium cross-section, a tube in the center with common wall thickness will not do that sufficiently.

(btw, always I’m all for keeping material thickness as low as possible, don’t like big chunks of material where it is not needed, but here I see a very good reason to add that material)

DENGOH
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
M4D M4X wrote:

DENGOH wrote:
Can we have options of 8 xhp35 hi?

 


we will see…


… sounds like a MF04 Wink

Just options is enough. Save on engineering cost. MCPCB changes only.

cool i'll see you when you get there

Bo4ka
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DENGOH wrote:
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
M4D M4X wrote:

DENGOH wrote:
Can we have options of 8 xhp35 hi?

 


we will see…


… sounds like a MF04 Wink

Just options is enough. Save on engineering cost. MCPCB changes only.

That would be great Smile
Wieselflinkpro
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djozz wrote:
I’m sorry that I do not I understand that calculation, especially why the battery configuration matters,

I think for the approximately size of the tube which transfers the heat to the fins.
djozz
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
djozz wrote:
I’m sorry that I do not I understand that calculation, especially why the battery configuration matters,

I think for the approximately size of the tube which transfers the heat to the fins.

I see, so the idea is that that central shaft is close to massive then, with a small hole for the wires? (in that case I still think that a higher cross-section would matter))
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Rather see 3-XHP70’s with 3 big deep reflectors at 8-9000lm Turbo like a huge BTU shocker and 5-70’s at 8-9000lms Turbo like a Ace beam X60. Not one for mixed emitter, multi-emitter lights. Rather have them all the same, but this is still very interesting… Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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JasonWW wrote:
leaftye wrote:
Are they working with any of the BLF driver wizards for this one? It’d be nice to get a great firmware UI to go with that dual button physical UI, and it’d be one less thing they could screw up.
No, it’s another Mateminco/Banggood light like the MF01 and MF02.

Which is a shame. You’d think some manufacturers would take notice after the Q8’s positive reception.

Lexel
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djozz wrote:
Lexel wrote:
djozz wrote:
A 30Klumen light must dissipate a huge amount of heat and care must be taken in getting it away from the leds. In the design pictured in the OP there is some nice deep fins (but only a fraction of the surface area needed to dissipate the close to 200W of heat, as all big-lumen lights this light needs to stepdown fast) but they neglected the most important thing with these power levels: spreading the heat over the body as fast as possible so that the heat can actually get to those fins (and further over the body). You need a heat highway and they made a bottleneck just under the leds. The result is unneeded fast heating up near the leds and shorter time in Turbo. In my view they can buy significant turbo-time if they sacrifice some finning near the led-shelf for body-material, like this:


as it has a 2S/4P battery compartment the active heat path at the base of the shelf has at least a diameter of 45mm, this is well enough to conduct 1000W of heat, the fins are really thick, no need to widen the head as you show

the LEDs wont be sittingh at the edge of the light like the X80, head is bigger and less LEDs, so they more more to center


I’m sorry that I do not I understand that calculation, especially why the battery configuration matters, I just see 200W of heat that is generated at the front part of the head, that either stays where it is or it goes somewhere else and thus keeps the head temperature a bit cooler for a bit longer time. And the little practical experience that I have with these power levels is that to funnel 200W to elsewhere it needs a large aluminium cross-section, a tube in the center with common wall thickness will not do that sufficiently.

(btw, always I’m all for keeping material thickness as low as possible, don’t like big chunks of material where it is not needed, but here I see a very good reason to add that material)

Take a look on current >100W lights like X80, MF01, they are barely bigger than a Q8 and handle the heat for more than a minute

The MF03 compared to them has a huge head and also way more surface to loose some of the heat, that will increase sustained output

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djozz wrote:
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
djozz wrote:
I’m sorry that I do not I understand that calculation, especially why the battery configuration matters,

I think for the approximately size of the tube which transfers the heat to the fins.

I see, so the idea is that that central shaft is close to massive then, with a small hole for the wires? (in that case I still think that a higher cross-section would matter))

I agree. It doesn’t really make sense to have such a bottleneck directly under the heat source even though that (hopefully) thick tube is large. Trying to funnel 100% of the heat into 50% of the heat conducting area isn’t ideal.

Still looks like a very cool light though. Interested to see more details.

djozz
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Lexel wrote:
djozz wrote:
Lexel wrote:
djozz wrote:
A 30Klumen light must dissipate a huge amount of heat and care must be taken in getting it away from the leds. In the design pictured in the OP there is some nice deep fins (but only a fraction of the surface area needed to dissipate the close to 200W of heat, as all big-lumen lights this light needs to stepdown fast) but they neglected the most important thing with these power levels: spreading the heat over the body as fast as possible so that the heat can actually get to those fins (and further over the body). You need a heat highway and they made a bottleneck just under the leds. The result is unneeded fast heating up near the leds and shorter time in Turbo. In my view they can buy significant turbo-time if they sacrifice some finning near the led-shelf for body-material, like this:


as it has a 2S/4P battery compartment the active heat path at the base of the shelf has at least a diameter of 45mm, this is well enough to conduct 1000W of heat, the fins are really thick, no need to widen the head as you show

the LEDs wont be sittingh at the edge of the light like the X80, head is bigger and less LEDs, so they more more to center


I’m sorry that I do not I understand that calculation, especially why the battery configuration matters, I just see 200W of heat that is generated at the front part of the head, that either stays where it is or it goes somewhere else and thus keeps the head temperature a bit cooler for a bit longer time. And the little practical experience that I have with these power levels is that to funnel 200W to elsewhere it needs a large aluminium cross-section, a tube in the center with common wall thickness will not do that sufficiently.

(btw, always I’m all for keeping material thickness as low as possible, don’t like big chunks of material where it is not needed, but here I see a very good reason to add that material)

Take a look on current >100W lights like X80, MF01, they are barely bigger than a Q8 and handle the heat for more than a minute

The MF03 compared to them has a huge head and also way more surface to loose some of the heat, that will increase sustained output


I’m sure that with its clunky build it will do much better than those tiny monsters, but with my simple suggested correction in the design that hardly costs extra (if any) I’m pretty sure it will still perform noticably better.
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djozz, is it you are suggesting to have more thermal mass under leds mcpcb seating by reducing the length of fin? Those deep section of fin don’t have much airflow anyway, might as well make the fins shallower?

cool i'll see you when you get there

djozz
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DENGOH wrote:
djozz, is it you are suggesting to have more thermal mass under leds mcpcb seating by reducing the length of fin? Those deep section of fin don’t have much airflow anyway, might as well make the fins shallower?

It is not the thermal mass I want it for (although it does add a bit that will help lengthening the turbotime somewhat just because of that), but I want it for a large enough cross-section to help the heat getting through to the rest of the body of the flashlight.

(and with 200W power the fins are mostly cosmetic, they will do a certain job at lower powers)

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wolfdog1226. Are you four?

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ramptosd wrote:
wolfdog1226. Are you four?
See what led up to my comments before you judge me….then mind your own business. Wink

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texas shooter
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And what will this “little darling” be powered with? Driver and batteries is the next question. I do like my 20700’s, I just got a few for $7.91 each from a U.S.A. store.

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Quote:

7 pcs Cree xhp70.2

and

one Cree xhp35 hi

Awesome !

JasonWW
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I would rather see 3-XHP70’s with 3 big deep reflectors at 8-9000lm Turbo like a huge BTU shocker and 5-70’s at 8-9000lms Turbo like a Ace beam X60.

You know they can’t push them that hard due to the poor efficiency.

The Imalent DX80 does 8 × 70.2 at 4,000 lumen each which is about 5A (6v). That’s about 32,000 lumen at 40 amps.

If this light had 8 × 70.2 at 8,500 lumen each that’s about 16A. Which is about 68,000 lumen at 128 amps.

You get double the output, but triple the power consumption.

Would we need to triple the batteries? Load it with 24 18650 cells? 6S4P.

The Imalent draws maybe 10A per cell on 8 cells.

This light would draw 32A per cell on 8 cells. So you’d need to at least run 16 cells to get it down to a more manageable 16A per cell. So at least 16 18650 cells. That’s a long battery tube.

I haven’t even mentioned the heat. You’d probably be triple at over 750 watts.

These are the reasons we are not seeing manufacturers push things so hard. The light would be so big and bulky and expensive to produce. It would not be practical at all and would therefore not sell well.

Kawiboy, I’m sure you know all this already, but I wanted to explain to all the newer folks the major hurdles involved.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54477

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55746

9 NarsilM user videos including GT
http://bit.ly/narsil-vid1

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