Cheap S2+ mods

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Agro
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I guess channel separation and FET mod is just too much hassle to make sense nowadays?

Also, is it worth to pot this driver?

Agro
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Inspired by PFlexPro I tried to unsolder the switch with the intention of lubricating it.
I failed to do so, it still sticks to MCPCB. The plastic on the side that I tried to unsolder melted before the solder did. It is slightly retracted (0.5 mm I guess). And the switch stopped clicking, it moves up and down, but doesn’t switch like it should, always off.
Should I replace the switch with another or fix somehow?
Regardless, how should I remove it? Heat is up less, but for longer? Heat it up more, but for shorter? Don’t heat up but cut with a knife?

vwpieces
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Switch is dead, you need a new one. Get a Genuine Omten 1288 from Simon.
Switches to do not take heat well. It changes the spring contacts inside and fail prematurely. I always remove the SW when I bypass the springs. Replace when done.

To remove I wedge a blade under one side and lift as I melt the solder. Get one contact free and melt solder on the other side. Iusually clean off the solder from board because the lumps make it harder to replace the SW. I hold the leg I am soldering with a small needle nose pliers to help sink the heat, keep it from going back into the SW

Jerommel
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kiriba-ru wrote:
No, those from your link is not dtp.
I think those are DTP actually.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Jerommel
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TBone wrote:
DoubleA wrote:
is there any way to fit metal tail switch for grey or black S2+s?
Like this?

No. Innocent
Yes.
Uhm… the picture shows it, or is that a blackened S2+ which wasn’t black before?
Quote:

.

The opening for the silicone tailcap is bigger than the thread for the metal button.
But a press-in adaptor ring could work. Metal buttons are available as spares.

Yeah, you can mess around with rings and what not, and then put a load of super glue in the tailcap (on the inside).
I have done a few tail caps with that SS button.
My C8 has one (inside a magnetic ring from Convoy), my Astrolux SS has one, my SS UltraFire S3 has one, and more will follow.
Those buttons are cheap at Fasttech, like $1.75 a pair.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Jerommel
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vwpieces wrote:

Switches to do not take heat well.

That’s an understatement.
It’s like they’re made of butter…

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Agro
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vwpieces wrote:
Switch is dead, you need a new one. Get a Genuine Omten 1288 from Simon.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have further questions….
I see that other sellers offer 1288 switches (without Omten name) for half the price. It’s not worth to risk getting junk, is it?
I also see that Simon sells beefier switches, “10A” for 50% more. I recognise that for S2+ with regulated driver they won’t make any difference. But since they are sold in batches of 10 I’d rather buy something that works great in a wide range of lights. Are those significantly better?
Also, I see KAN-9 10A switches for less that Simon’s 1288….Considering that KAN-28 did well in Djozz tests, this one should be even better and likely as good as Simon’s 10A, am I right?
Jerommel
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..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

kiriba-ru
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Agro wrote:

I also see that Simon sells beefier switches, “10A” for 50% more. I recognise that for S2+ with regulated driver they won’t make any difference. But since they are sold in batches of 10 I’d rather buy something that works great in a wide range of lights. Are those significantly better?

10A switches wont fit S2+. Smallest light I could fit them is p60 solarforce.

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

Jerommel
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kiriba-ru wrote:
Agro wrote:

I also see that Simon sells beefier switches, “10A” for 50% more. I recognise that for S2+ with regulated driver they won’t make any difference. But since they are sold in batches of 10 I’d rather buy something that works great in a wide range of lights. Are those significantly better?

10A switches wont fit S2+. Smallest light I could fit them is p60 solarforce.

These will:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Flashlight-reverse-switch/1572591646.html
They’re a big switch in a small package.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

kiriba-ru
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They are reverse clicky, and I didnt found anything about 10A rate.

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

DoubleA
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Jerommel][quote=TBone wrote:
I have done a few tail caps with that SS button.

Show us your wares. Hat

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

Jerommel
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DoubleA wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
I have done a few tail caps with that SS button.

Show us your wares. Hat


Okay Davie

Those are:

Astrolux SS – SME SME-626

….fire S3 – Convoy C8 (with magnet ring)

The SS and the C8 are without centring gasket because they’re for a lighted switch.
In both cases light can also pass through around the buttons.
Maybe i’ll show you later.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

DoubleA
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how did you solve the hole diameter problem?

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

Jerommel
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DoubleA wrote:
how did you solve the hole diameter problem?

Mainly with O-rings and super glue.

For the SS (top left) i found an acrylic ring that’s almost invisible.
But it’s difficult to explain without pictures..

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

DoubleA
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Ok, but how is it possible to remove them if you use super glue?

Also in this thread they’re mentioning metal clicky S2+‘s have a bit more tail length to accommodate the metal switch. Do you have any problems fitting metal clicky into shorter tails?

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

Jerommel
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DoubleA wrote:
Ok, but how is it possible to remove them if you use super glue?
I don’t know why i would want to remove them, but with force and / or some heat i think you could remove them.
Quote:

Also in this thread they’re mentioning metal clicky S2+‘s have a bit more tail length to accommodate the metal switch. Do you have any problems fitting metal clicky into shorter tails?

I can work around that.
The SME and the S3 have no PCB between the switch and the spring.
In the S3 i even put an Omten 1288 switch inside the retainer ring.
Again, super glue to put the spring on the bottom of the switch. Bypass wire to connect the spring to the switch.
I also raise the buttons as far as possible so that the lights can still tail stand (that’s the first step).
The C8 and the SS have enough space inside.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Lightbringer
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Jerommel wrote:
DoubleA wrote:
Ok, but how is it possible to remove them if you use super glue?
I don’t know why i would want to remove them, but with force and / or some heat i think you could remove them.

Acetone. Dissolves cyanoacrylate no problem.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

DoubleA
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probably also dissolves the anodization? Tired

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

Lightbringer
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DoubleA wrote:
probably also dissolves the anodization? Tired

AcMe? Why should it? Need something like lye to do that.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

tekwyzrd
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After swapping in a DrJones H17F driver I am mostly happy with my desert sand S2+. The only improvement I’d wish for is bi-directional mode switching. Unfortunately the driver is over $10.

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