Olight S1 Mini teardown

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-X3-
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This seems to be the new assembly, it’s the same in the S1RII and S2RII as well

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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joechina
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pc_light
How is the MCPCB fixed?
Glued?

pc_light
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No mechanical or adhesive used on MCPCB, thermal paste only.

This means to some extent the optic holds down the board, thus height of emitter/board assembly is important -

  • Too tall and the (blue) lens retaining ring won’t seat properly.
  • Too short and the MCPCB won’t be held down for good contact (unless one uses adhesive)

Seeking the light.

-X3-
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pc_light wrote:
No mechanical or adhesive used on MCPCB, thermal paste only.

This means to some extent the optic holds down the board, thus height of emitter/board assembly is important -

  • Too tall and the (blue) lens retaining ring won’t seat properly.
  • Too short and the MCPCB won’t be held down for good contact (unless one uses adhesive)

I’ll add another variable in the equation : focusing the LED in the optic Silly
These lights are a bit tricky to mod if you don’t keep the stock emitter model.
That said, my S2RII now runs a Samsung LH351D (on a 10mm KD MCPCB) and the beam is nice so everything is doable

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

coherent-rambling
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PC_Light, in your picture the optic looks intact. How did you get the retaining ring out from the front?

pc_light
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Similar to your proposal, I tackled it from the optic side. I was prepared to but fortunately did not have to replace the optic. I simply inserted the flat tip of the smallest micro-screwdriver I had between the optic and the blue ring and slowly worked it around/out. The TIR optic survived fine with only two small indentations where I first inserted the screwdriver.

The worst damage was some light scratches to the ring’s blue finish and to the bezel where I pried the screwdriver against the bezel edge. Working slower and gentler I probably could have further minimized even those scractches but since I intended this as an EDC any light scratches weren’t a concern.

I was fortunate this time and nothing got broken (which with modding is always a risk). All I can share it to take your time and be gentle with the blue metal ring because (a) it is not as hefty as it looks and (b) unlike the optic, it cannot be replaced!

As -X3 indicated above, the only issue I had was with the LED centering which because of the emitter size differences (5050 XM-L2 versus 3535 LH351D) was a challenge to center exactly but beam looks fine so I must’ve gotten it right enough.

Seeking the light.

oweban
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Well, I done goofed today – was following this to get the driver out (stripped insulation from ground wire, needed to replace wire), and the SMD switch has broken off. Great. So now I have to either find the right switch and solder on (possible but tough) or just give up on the whole thing.

(dammit)

Bob_McBob
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Cautionary note here: I’ve killed four S1 Minis with modding attempts this week. The moonlight mode and switch status light appear to be on a different channel from the rest of the modes, and the driver is insanely sensitive to damage on this channel. Even the slightest short while a cell is installed causes permanent damage. I was trying to be fancy and keep the stock optic, but I couldn’t figure out why I kept ending up with bad moonlight modes. Today I did one by simply drilling the optic, and it was working fine until I stupidly accidentally touched one of the MCPCB leads with tweezers while a cell was installed. The light was turned off, but the LED briefly flashed on anyway, and the moonlight channel was broken afterwards.

After this failure, moonlight mode is useless because the output is so low. Sometimes when turning it on there is a brief flash before the output drops. The switch status LED is also no longer visible. The UI is completely normal and every other mode and function works fine.

I consider myself a fairly competent modder. I’ve worked on over 30 Zebralights with only a single major failure. I’m 0/5 for Olights so far. If you’re going to attempt an emitter swap on any of the EDC models, I strongly suggest just drilling the optic or using the standard bezel prying method when possible. And don’t do anything with a cell installed.

This is a video of the behaviour:

https://imgur.com/VH80scj

And a working moonlight mode beside a dud one:

Lithium
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I’m pretty sure I’d like the “bad” ultra low moonlight!

What led did you use ?

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Bob_McBob
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Lithium wrote:
I’m pretty sure I’d like the “bad” ultra low moonlight!

What led did you use ?

Don’t let the photo fool you, the light on the left is only producing 0.4 lumens. The broken moonlight mode is barely driving the LED enough to turn it on. It’s not a useful output level, and some LEDs flicker badly.

Lithium
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Oh, ok Sad
That’s too bad, it looked like a useful very low level. Sounds like a very fragile driver.

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Scallywag
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Yuck, harder to mod than a Zebralight? 

 

I still kind of want an emitter swap in my S1, but I may just never do it. Especially if I get my D25C going here soon. 

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No. The prying method shown here works fine. Just take the ring and optic out and desolder the LED. I’ve done like 6-7 olights with no issues. Led swaps are fine. The s2 copper I tried was a disaster though..

Edit: my mistake. I’m talking about the s mini, NOT the s1 mini. I have seen one of those.

VILIR
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I dropped my S1 mini a bunch of times and the Moonlight mode began exhibiting the same behaviour as your damaged lights, Bob. Funnily enough it spontaneously fixed itself after a while and the light now functions as normal.

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