[Sale] Buck drivers 20, 21, 22, 24, 30mm L6, MF01, MF02/04(S), TN40S/42, BLF GT, Acebeam X45/65

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BlueSwordM
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Already did pay for the driver and installation from Texas Ace.

The driver is a 16×7135+FET 2S driver if I remember well.

I just wanted to know if Lexel had a compatible buck driver, since FETs are fairly inefficient compared to buck driver.

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Lexel
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I have right now a very powerful Buck in development, but it wont be so cheap parts only are around 40€
With it 6V and 30A are no problem

Since TA seems to keep his new MT09R driver secret to make frofit out of it
I have a similar DD driver 2 FET designed but developing to final product takes time and work and wont be better than TA variant or cheaper
Just it would be nice he shares it so Europe customers can let their lights be modded here with less expensive shipping and I usually mod a lot cheaper

BlueSwordM
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Pffff! 40€ for a 50A buck driver is a excellent deal actually. No buck converter can do this on the market, even ones for high power applications, especially at only 6V.

What I would really want is a dual channel buck+FET driver pushing 7000-9000 lumens on max buck, then switch to FET above that.

Would be amazing, but I doubt that is even feasible, especially within the constraints of a flashlight driver.

Edit: Meant 30A sorry.

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Lexel
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Pffff! 40€ for a 50A buck driver is a excellent deal actually. No buck converter can do this on the market, even ones for high power applications, especially at only 6V.

What I would really want is a dual channel buck+FET driver pushing 7000-9000 lumens on max buck, then switch to FET above that.

Would be amazing, but I doubt that is even feasible, especially within the constraints of a flashlight driver.

40€ are just the parts for 30A
development and labor add up at least another 40€
on CFT-90 LED 3.7V 40A possible

400W is possible going to 5S battery carrier would add enough voltage overhead for 30A @13.5V XHP-70.s maybe the MF03 becomes a 400W Buck if they choose me to do it
sounds odd but only add about 5.5mm Carrier diameter to fit a 5. cell

BlueSwordM
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I meant 30A sorry. 50A would be complete overkill.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

BlueSwordM
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BTW, Lexel, are you still selling the Haikelite MT07S/MT09R driver?

I would like to buy it, so I can compare it to the TA FET driver for the MT09R.

Also, what are its specs? Would like to know.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
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Lexel
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BlueSwordM wrote:
BTW, Lexel, are you still selling the Haikelite MT07S/MT09R driver?

I would like to buy it, so I can compare it to the TA FET driver for the MT09R.

Also, what are its specs? Would like to know.

I am still selling those

I have here very unpleasant measurements of original MT09Rs
used full VTC6s
XHP35 HI NW 4000K 246k stock
with D4 5000K NW from kaidomain 289kcd which is just LED swap 17.5% more output

The CW I have from another person is totally crap measured stock
only 163kcd
I reflowed just half an hour ago the LEDs for this light and need to make drivers
then I can tell final measurements with my driver @7A

BlueSwordM
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How is the XHP70.2 version for output though? Is it crap or not?

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http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
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We installed lexel mf02 driver on my astrolux mf02. Its very nice. Thanks lexel.

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Newlumen wrote:
We installed lexel mf02 driver on my astrolux mf02. Its very nice. Thanks lexel.

Is it running on XHP35 or 70?

Nico -.-

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Nicolicous wrote:
Newlumen wrote:
We installed lexel mf02 driver on my astrolux mf02. Its very nice. Thanks lexel.

Is it running on XHP35 or 70?

Xhp 35 nw.. we tried to remove the bezel to swap higher bin. It was glued well.. so the light have a stock led..

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you notice any different in brightness or throw with Lexel driver?

my bezel had weak glue and i managed to open it easily.

Nico -.-

freeme
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Subscribed!

Lexel
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first MF02s were glued with blue weak stuff
now its some white strong stuff, but not nearly as bad as MF01 red stuff

smokuxx1987
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Now MF02 is glued Red stuff too.
From 6 pcs I opened only 2 bezel.

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I wonder if the Mateminco MT35 is also using red stuff?

It sounds like they’re using red Loctite. Typically you have to use heat in order to get it to soften up. Would applying some heat do any damage to the parks? Maybe it would only damage the O-ring which is replaceable? I assume astrolux has some method of getting it apart when they need to do warranty work.

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JasonWW wrote:
I wonder if the Mateminco MT35 is also using red stuff?

It sounds like they’re using red Loctite. Typically you have to use heat in order to get it to soften up. Would applying some heat do any damage to the parks? Maybe it would only damage the O-ring which is replaceable? I assume astrolux has some method of getting it apart when they need to do warranty work.


I try to warm up but except oring there is second oring, glass And switch.
To change the driver there is no need to twist off bezel.
KawiBoy1428
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I guess I got lucky with the MF02 I received, it came off with just 2 hands using rubber BBQ gloves in a padded vice. It fought all the way, and there was some type of thread locker, it wasn’t blue or red, kind of yellow/clear looking. Having 2 Drag Bikes and a Hot Rod Harley I use both Blue and Red Loctite more then the average Joe and I know the look/smell of the stuff very well, this stuff on the MF02 I had was neither?

It might be the way they are Torquing the bezel on, the amount of torque used, initially that makes it soo hard to break, once it was broke loose it still was a beast to thread off.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Lexel
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MF02 as far as I know

first blue stuff, very soft, easy to open
then some weird white stuff ahrder to open

I used 140-150°C on red locktite lights and my clamping adapters

Lexel
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Here is shown how a XHP70.2 is DD driven I would not recommend it
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60560

left original GT calculation;

middle 50mOhm resistor mod pushing the original driver over the rated specs, Input capacitors should be doubled
regulation can break down as the minimum ripple not met with 10uH Inductor,

right my driver with proper sized upgraded parts
New generation of MOSFETs with 1/3 the conduction and half the switching losses,
2.2uH for proper ripple current and less losses on it,
reduced voltage divider to get the sense resistor smaller,
better diode 20A instead 3A

Its possible to push the original to 5 max 6A, but changing R14 to 12kOhms and adding at least 20-30uF input capacitors

I would no go beyond 7A with the LED its not worth it

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Just today I contemplated how far do I think XHP70.2 deserves to be driven.
My answer (based on the same chart) was 12A.

Lexel
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Agro wrote:
Just today I contemplated how far do I think XHP70.2 deserves to be driven. My answer (based on the same chart) was 12A.

yes 12V 6A or 6V 12A is a conservative choice getting tons of output with moderate efficiency

I sold some drivers and people decided after seeing this test to go for 6A when their first wanted 8 or even 9A @12V

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Hallo, ich brauche einen Treiber für die BLF GT —-XHP 70.2—-.Hat noch jemand einen zu verkaufen
.Ich komme auch aus Deutschland (Hessen).Liebe Grüße Andy

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Oh, so you meant 7A 12V. That’s a good number.

BlueSwordM
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I’m sorry to ask another question, but is there a 4S BLF Q8 driver that can buck down to 3V LED voltages that you buily?

Would be quite nice if that were the case.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Lexel
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BlueSwordM wrote:
I’m sorry to ask another question, but is there a 4S BLF Q8 driver that can buck down to 3V LED voltages that you buily?

Would be quite nice if that were the case.

4S buck down to 3V would be pretty expensive and 4 layer board, no sense doing it

But 4S to 4 XPL LEDs in series or 4 XHP35s, for that case I have drivers
12V 7A

BlueSwordM
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Ah okay then. Does your buck driver support 4S buck down to 6V then?

That would be great. If not, I’ll just get the regular 3 channel TA driver for the Q8.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Lexel
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Ah okay then. Does your buck driver support 4S buck down to 6V then?

That would be great. If not, I’ll just get the regular 3 channel TA driver for the Q8.

But the current is limited always the same, so on 6V the output would be needed to use 2 buck circuits on one board I made such a layout, but its not cheap to make with 26€

BlueSwordM
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Oh okay then. Thanks anyway.

I’ll try to find out how to 4S the emitters with the stock 1S MCPCB, and get myself a 4S tailcap. You do sell it a 4S tailcap if I understand? Or is it only for the MF01/02?

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Lexel
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Oh okay then. Thanks anyway.

I’ll try to find out how to 4S the emitters with the stock 1S MCPCB, and get myself a 4S tailcap. You do sell it a 4S tailcap if I understand? Or is it only for the MF01/02?

I have a tail cap board for the Q8 with 2 or 4S

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