UPDATE! “Report on”: Convoy S2+ Mini with 1*7135 chip (Beamshot Comparison)

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MascaratumB
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UPDATE! “Report on”: Convoy S2+ Mini with 1*7135 chip (Beamshot Comparison)

UPDATE POST: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1237897#comment-1237897

WARNING: This not a review, but more a kind of “report”.

Hi BLF:

Today I received a “long awaited” * Convoy S2+ Mini * (16340/18350 version), from Simon. (Shipped on 22 October)
I asked him to equip it with:
- SMO reflector
- XPL-HI U6-4C (Neutral to Warm White)
- Biscotti 3*7135 Chips
- Forward switch
- White rubber tailcap

My aim when I ordered this flashlight was to have a short flashlight, with a really low moonlight mode, and which I could use with a 16340 or a 18350 battery.

Also, I wanted a flashlight that I could use “silently”, without having to make a full click to switch it ON (hence, the forward switch).

I asked it with a XPL-HI U6-4C & SMO reflector as I wanted it to have a narrow hotspot (as the one from the Convoy S2+ Desert Tan), and I preferred a warmer tint, compared with the XPL-HI U6-3A from the DT version.

So, this is what I wanted or what I idealized. I received the light in pristine conditions and as good as ever, from Simon, and with all the specs I asked for!

I must say that I like the Desert Tan colour very much, but the mix from blue & grey from the S2+ Mini is something delicious!
I really love its colour and smooth anodization. It is smoother than the black and the Desert Tan versions, maybe it is a bit slippery, but the smooth touch conquered me! I just can compare it with the Emisar D4 (grey version) that is also that smooth!

________________________________

Well, but now I’ll make a comparison between what I idealized and my feeling after receiving it and using it for a while, my “clash with reality”.

1Driver: This is one of the “old” Biscotti versions, once it has a strobe with single frequency and it is faster than the #2 version of this driver.
PROBABLE ACTION: Due to what I will say next, I’ll probably stack some 7135 chips on it, to make it a 8*7135 driver, eventually…or more than that Big Smile Or maybe I’ll replace it!
________

2Forward Switch: I wanted to have momentary ON feature. But after using it for a while with and without memory configured, I perceived that the forward switch does not interact so well with this driver as I thought it would…

Maybe due to the driver version (it reacts too fast when clicking, or sometimes it seems to get stuck…), maybe due to the memory, I don’t know, but what was happening was that the modes jumped a lot, entering the configuration settings.

ACTION: I decided to replace the forward switch and put a reverse switch on it, in order to make it work well. I’m still getting some difficulties, so maybe the switch was just part of the problem, and the rest is on the driver…

________

3LED + SMO reflector: As I said, I chose this combination so that I could get a narrow beam that would be more useful for me, because it would concentrate the light in one spot, that I prefer for night vision at home when all is dark and people are sleeping.

I rapidly noticed that on the very centre of the hotspot, there is a yellow dot. The reflection from the SMO + the tint of the LED originated that dot. The corona also has more marked yellowish shade, while the rest of the beam (spill and even hotspot) are “whiteish”. It is hard to describe and it was difficult to get a picture that captured this.

ACTION: First I swapped the reflector and used an OP reflector, and the hotspot got less defined and more floody (not as much as a XML2 would make it, though). Then I decided to use a pebbled TIR lens (with holder) and that is the actual configuration of the light. The original lens is a clear lens, not AR coated.

Moonlight (0,1%) > High (100%)

Desert Tan XPL-HI U6-3A (SMO Reflector) > S2+ Mini XPL-HI U6-4C (OP Reflector)

________

4Output level: Well, I thought that getting a 3*7135 driver would make the low modes (0,1%) go lower… But it didn’t! The output level on the lowest mode – I would risk saying – is evenly the same from as from a 8*7135 driver. Sometimes it seems even brighter (if compared with the DT version, both with SMO reflector), but I believe that it has to do with the tint, as the warmer seems to be more prominent.

On the other outputs, some differences emerge, mainly on the 2 highest (Mode 2 configured: 0,1 – 1 – 10 – 35 – 100%), and on the thermal aspects, as this 3*7135 version doesn’t get hot.

Comparison between Convoys: L to = XPL-HI U6-3A > XML2 T6-4C > XML2 U2-1A > XPL-HI U6-4C (mini)

_________________________

As you may notice, by this time, almost all of my ideas have failed about this configuration.

What I mention as good/positive from this experience:
1 – this Convoy S2+ Mini host is really cute and beautiful;

2 – the tint from the XPL-HI U6-4C is quite nice, not as warm as a XML2 T6-4C, and if used with a pebbled TIR lens will produce a very nice Neutral White beam. I don’t recommend using it with a SMO reflector, as it may cause that yellow dot in the centre of the hotspot;

3 lights with Pebbled lenses: L to R = Modded light XML2 T6-3B > Convoy S2+ Mini XPL-HI U6-4C > Amutorch SSteel with Nichia 219C

3 – the drivers with few 7135 chips are really nice for home flashlights, and if installed in a 18650 host they will probably provide lots of hours of illumination without getting hot.

4Convoy quality is always good, and Simon is an excellent guy that made the things I asked in a very professional way! As ever! Smile

What to do next?
Well, I’ll probably use this host + driver + OP reflector + forward switch (or lighted switch) to make a nice “hot” light with Lexel’s driver with Bistro HD OTSM, or maybe I’ll turn it into a triple.

Anyway: for those I had to answer – sorry, can’t remember who or where – this is my experience with the 3*7135 Biscotti driver and XPL-HI U6-4C LED!

Feel free to ask questions or make any comments.
Best regards

UPDATE POST: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1237897#comment-1237897

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

Edited by: MascaratumB on 12/13/2017 - 09:27
Lightbringer
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One light I want to build for someone is a shorty tube with 1-mode driver and TIR lens, for a nice smooth beam, compromise between brightness and runtime (especially with a short cell), and have it be just a generic in-purse light for lighting up the path at night, in winter, etc., and for grubbling around in dark places.

Maybe a 2-mode driver (105C) for low/high, but not more than that.

Use of a FC switch in a light whose UI is designed for a RC switch is always a bad idea. Use a WK50 if you can find one, or even an older non-S VG10. Takes a little getting used to, but it’s wonderful when you do.

And congrats, you discovered the evils of a fried-egg beam when using a warmer Cree with a SMO reflector! OP helps blend the mess, TIRs more so. A 4C with TIR is a thing of beauty, dunno why you wasted yuor time with any reflector. Big Smile

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MascaratumB
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Lightbringer wrote:
One light I want to build for someone is a shorty tube with 1-mode driver and TIR lens, for a nice smooth beam, compromise between brightness and runtime (especially with a short cell), and have it be just a generic in-purse light for lighting up the path at night, in winter, etc., and for grubbling around in dark places.

Mine has now the TIR lens, but I’m using it with the Configuration 2 enabled (5 modes). I like it for the night, at home! But even with 3 chips, this light with 1 mode only is plenty bright! And does not get hot Wink

Lightbringer wrote:
Use of a FC switch in a light whose UI is designed for a RC switch is always a bad idea. Use a WK50 if you can find one, or even an older non-S VG10. Takes a little getting used to, but it’s wonderful when you do.

Eheh, now I know that Big Smile But first I had to make the mistake Wink I just wanted to make an experience with forward switch! Next time I…there won’t be next time!
And thanks for the recommendation! Probably with other kind of driver/firmware I’ll be able to use the forward clicky more appropriately!

Lightbringer wrote:
And congrats, you discovered the evils of a fried-egg beam when using a warmer Cree with a SMO reflector! OP helps blend the mess, TIRs more so. A 4C with TIR is a thing of beauty, dunno why you wasted yuor time with any reflector. Big Smile

Well, this was the first XPL-HI 4C I have so I had to try! The OP reflector wasn’t bad at all, but for the current purposes, I’ll stick with the TIR, it is better on the lowest modes, diffusing the light!

I like this tint, despite it is different from the XML2 T6-4C, which tens more to yellow while the XPL-HI with TIR tends to rosy Wink
All nice Big Smile

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

Lightbringer
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With a RC, you full-press to turn it on, then half-press to select your mode.

With a FC, you half-press to select your mode, then full-press to keep it.

That’s the main difference in a nutshell. The advantage of a FC switch is the ability to silently flash’n‘dash with just a half-press.

 

Cree doesn’t design their chips for flashlights, so angular tint-shift is the least of their concerns. But reflectors bring out that fried-egginess in their chips.

When I got my first 4C S2+, I thought nfw is that a 4C, as the hotspot is just too yellow! Took me using ceiling-bounce to see what a nice color it actually is… but why? Why, hey! The spill is so blue/cool compared to the yellow/warm hotspot! But combine the two, and you get the nice summed 4C tint!

And you’re also likely to run into the horribly yellow corona around the hotspot, too.

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MascaratumB
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Lightbringer wrote:
With a RC, you full-press to turn it on, then half-press to select your mode.

With a FC, you half-press to select your mode, then full-press to keep it.

That’s the main difference in a nutshell. The advantage of a FC switch is the ability to silently flash’n‘dash with just a half-press.

Eheh, I know that! So far I only have 1 flashlight with FC, the Nitefox UT20, and I like that feature, so I decided to try it with this Convoy, unsuccessfully! As I said, maybe with other driver Wink

Lightbringer wrote:
Cree doesn’t design their chips for flashlights, so angular tint-shift is the least of their concerns. But reflectors bring out that fried-egginess in their chips.

When I got my first 4C S2+, I thought nfw is that a 4C, as the hotspot is just too yellow! Took me using ceiling-bounce to see what a nice color it actually is… but why? Why, hey! The spill is so blue/cool compared to the yellow/warm hotspot! But combine the two, and you get the nice summed 4C tint!
And you’re also likely to run into the horribly yellow corona around the hotspot, too.

Yeah, the TIR erases those odd things! My S2+ with XML2 T6-4C was a “paradigm shift” in my tint preferences, but it has to be “well” done to avoid those kind of beam artifacts (tint shift and so on).
I’ve been using the Amutorch SS with a XML2 and a TIR lens (original, maybe 45º?) and it works pretty well, giving a nice homogeneous colour.

My next step is to put one if this XPL-HI U6-4C (or 3A…) on the SP10A or B, as I mentioned on other thread Wink

I will also take 2 of the 7135 chips on this S2+ to check how the lowest mode performs.

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

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[quote=Lightbringer] Use of a FC switch in a light whose UI is designed for a RC switch is always a bad idea. 

 

Do you think a FC is a bad idea for a 5/3 mode S2+ ?

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pennzy wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Use of a FC switch in a light whose UI is designed for a RC switch is always a bad idea.
Do you think a FC is a bad idea for a 5/3 mode S2+ ?

Absolutely, unless you want to get thoroughly confused.

It can be done, and nothing’s going to “break”, but it’ll be a pain in the ass to try to switch modes.

Eg, what you’d normally do with one half-press when on, you’d have to turn off the light, wait long enough, half-press it long enough to simulate it being “on”, then momentarily release the switch and quickly half-press it on again. Or release-then-press multiple times to simulate multiple half-presses of a RC switch, then full-press to keep it once you get to the mode you want.

Like I said, it won’t break anything, but it’ll be damned cumbersome.

 

FC lights like it best when you just keep it on one usual mode (eg, moonlight for not blinding yourself at night, or 100% if you want it at its brightest), and optionally just half-press initially to get to a different mode if you want.

That’s why, to me, my favorite lights are FC 1-mode lights (eg, my F13, L2M, etc.) that are full-tilt all the time, and I don’t have to worry about changing modes. Should do up a few C8s that way…

My WK50 is an exception, as I normally keep that on moonlight, know it’s on moonlight when I’d flick it on once, so if I want anything different, I half-press as needed to get to the mode I want. Then when I’m done, go through the process again to put it back on moonlight.

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Thanks , I did not know the light could not be half pressed from ON to switch modes .

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Only lights with reverse-clicky switches, not forward-clicky switches.

RC is momentary-off from on.

FC is momentary-on from off.

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pennzy
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Lightbringer wrote:
Only lights with reverse-clicky switches, *not* forward-clicky switches. RC is momentary-off from on. FC is momentary-on from off.

Got it now . If a light is designed for FC from the start such as tactical lights , the same holds true ?

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Yep.

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pennzy
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So if  momentary on were used it would change modes and not stay in original mode selected ?

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No, on is on. It doesn’t turn “more-on” with a half press.

You either have to do it the way I listed in detail above, or swap it for a RC switch.

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pennzy
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I mean from off , as in a quick half press , then back off . Would this not change modes so next momentary on would be a different brightness ? Pardon my lack of understanding of this , I have no FC to experiment with .

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It’s all a matter of timing. I have no idea how long you’d half-press it on, wait ‘til the next half-press, etc.

That’s why I said it’d be cumbersome if using a FC switch on a UI meant for RC switches.

Kinda just proved my point. Big Smile

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pennzy
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Yeah , it is . The reason I was asking is because I was toying with converting one of my S2+ to a weapons light . Now that you have explained it to me , I don't think it would be any good . Momentary on could be any length of time and single light level would be a crap shoot . Too many failure chances . 

 

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Same with a RC switch. A “flicker” even with a RC switch could change modes.

Off, “ooh, what’s that?” back on, unwanted mode-change.

A 1-mode is the only way to avoid unwanted mode-changes. Otherwise, FC or RC, you can have an unwanted/accidental mode-change.

Weapon-light? Hell, even a flicker from recoil could break contact enough to cause a mode-change. The battery would bounce back’n‘forth in the tube like a shaken-baby’s head.

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Good point . My current light for this is a combo FC/ side switch . It does have multi modes but so far no mode change . Atactical A1S . Nice light for the money .

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Hi MascaratumB. Can you give more info on the switch in your mini S2+? It appears the tail is the same as a normal blue/red/green S2+, but without the metal switch. Is the hole threaded? Did Simon just stick a small rubber tail cap in it?

I’ve been wanting to buy a non-grey/black S2+ host and stick in a color matching lighted switch in it, but I want to do it with a white rubber tail cap. Looks like this may be a way to do it.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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So, in the name of the “flashlight science”, I was messing with the S2+ Mini I received.
It had a 3*7135 Biscotti driver, and I wanted to test how low the lowest mode would go, meaning, I modded it and extracted 2 chips. Current driver situation is 1*7135.

I made some beamshots still with 3 chips and after taking the 2 chips out. I present you the results below.

S2+ Mini (1*7135 + XPL-HI U6-4C + Pebbled TIR) >>>> S2+ Mini (3*7135 + XPL-HI U6-4C + Pebbled TIR) >>>> S2+ Desert Tan (8*7135 + XPL-HI U6-3A + SMO Reflector)

———

S2+ Mini (1*7135 + XPL-HI U6-4C)
Pebbled TIR >>>> SMO Reflector >>>> OP Reflector

On the lowest mode (0,1%)
S2+ Mini (3*7135) >>>> S2+ Desert Tan (8*7135) ||||| S2+ Mini (1*7135) >>>> S2+ Desert Tan (8*7135)

S2+ Mini (1*7135 + TIR) >>Nitefox UT20 >> Zanflare F1 >> S2+ Desert Tan >> S2+ XML2 U2-1A >> S2+ XML2 T6-4C

And my final conclusion is… even with 1*7135 chip, the lowest mode (0,1%) is still brighter than some moonlight modes of flashlights like the Zanflare F1 or the Nitefox UT20 (especially when using the SMO or OP reflectors instead of the TIR lens).

I would compare it with other lights with “true” moonlight modes (Jetbeam RRT-01 or a modded light with Reylight Pineapple Brass driver), but those are the lowest output lights I have (firefly level), so I don’t think they are useful for this comparison.

When comparing it with 3 Convoy lights with Biscotti drivers with 8*7135 chips, this Convoy S2+ Mini doesn’t get a 0,1% mode higher than the ones of the other S2+, but the “Mini’s” level isn’t much below them (either using OP or SMO reflector or even Pebbled TIR lens).

With 1*7135 and/or with 3*7135 chips it is a light with a very low output on the lowest and nice output on the highest modes, very useful for indoor and/or outdoor at close range.

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

MascaratumB
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NeutralFan wrote:
Hi MascaratumB. Can you give more info on the switch in your mini S2+? It appears the tail is the same as a normal blue/red/green S2+, but without the metal switch. Is the hole threaded? Did Simon just stick a small rubber tail cap in it?

I’ve been wanting to buy a non-grey/black S2+ host and stick in a color matching lighted switch in it, but I want to do it with a white rubber tail cap. Looks like this may be a way to do it.

Hi Neutral Fan!
The switch that Simon put on this light is a “regular” forward clicky switch. I asked him to install a transparent rubber tailcap, and he did that without the inner rubber part (for pressing the switch) as the forward clicky is taller than the reverse clicky switches we normally get on Convoy lights.

The tail hole is not threaded as this is not one of the “colour” or Desert Tan or Clear (silver) versions. It has the regular size of a Black or Grey Convoy S2+. This host is the specific 16340/18350 version.
Also, I don’t know if the gray 18650 tube matches the colour of this version as this seems a mix of gray and blue, not so gray as the “long version”.

BTW, this works well with 16340s and at least the unprotected Keeppower and Aspire 18350 cells.

A simple opinion and taste: I like a lot this host and the combination with the transparent tailcap! So a lighted switch will fit perfectly Wink

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

NeutralFan
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Thanks for the info. So does that mean Simon will make a green/blue/red S2+ host with the gray/black specifications if you ask?

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

MascaratumB
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NeutralFan wrote:
Thanks for the info. So does that mean Simon will make a green/blue/red S2+ host with the gray/black specifications if you ask?

U welcome Wink Well, I guess that if it is possible for him, maybe he can do that! I paid extra money for the things I wanted (forward switch and XPL-HI LED, as the “stock” versions use XML2), but I didn’t mind that. The only thing I missed was the AR coated lens.

My guess – my – is that the only thing he can’t do is to put metal buttons on the black / gray and mini versions. Switches, LEDs, Tailcap, Driver, Lens…those are all “moddable”, even if it implies paying some extra money.

Contact him before ordering to make sure he can do what you want, and after he replies, if needed he adjusts the value and proceeds with your order Wink

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

NeutralFan
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Sorry, but I’m still a little confused.

The blue S2+ only comes with a metal switch, but you got one with a rubber switch. It seems Simon made the flashlight tail special for your build. From what you have described, it looks like he took a tail specified for a gray/black S2+ and anodized it blue.

Also, looking at your tail/switch photo above, it appears the switch is smaller/taller than the normal Omten 1288 switch that come in a rubber switch S2+. Maybe it’s just how it looks in the picture.

Would you mind taking some measurements/pictures of the tail?

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

MascaratumB
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NeutralFan wrote:
Sorry, but I’m still a little confused.

The blue S2+ only comes with a metal switch, but you got one with a rubber switch. It seems Simon made the flashlight tail special for your build. From what you have described, it looks like he took a tail specified for a gray/black S2+ and anodized it blue.

Also, looking at your tail/switch photo above, it appears the switch is smaller/taller than the normal Omten 1288 switch that come in a rubber switch S2+. Maybe it’s just how it looks in the picture.

Would you mind taking some measurements/pictures of the tail?

Sorry NeutralFan, I may have confused you about the colours!
This is the blue version: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Convoy-S2-blue-Cree-XML2-U2-1A-EDC-LED-F...

An this is the version I bought: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/18350-16340-version-Convoy-S2-G...

These are different lights! The 1st is the one with metal switch and is completely blue! The 2nd is a regular Convoy S2+ with rubber switch! This 2nd version colour is a mix of gray and blue, but it is NOT the blue S2+ indicated on the 1st link.

Also, the white one is a reverse clicky switch that normally comes with the S2+, the black one is the forward clicky switch that I asked Simon to install on my flashlight.

About the rubber tailcap, the one used on this flashlight is the one on the left, with the interior rubber piece cut, so that the taller forward clicky could accomodate more easily.

About the tail size, it it has exactly the same measures of the black S2+ Convoys! There are no differences in measures Wink

Sorry for having confused you and maybe other members Facepalm

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

NeutralFan
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Interesting, since it appears the mini S2+ that you got looks blue, not at all gray.

Thanks for clarifying.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

MascaratumB
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NeutralFan wrote:
Interesting, since it appears the mini S2+ that you got looks blue, not at all gray.

Thanks for clarifying.

You’re welcome Wink
Yup, it seems to be mostly blue, either on photos or “live”. But it is, indeed, different from the “blue version”.
Wish I had a grey version to compare with just to match the differences!

BTW, about the coloured versions (red, green, blue and Desert Tan) my guess is that you can take the metal button out and put in a transparent rubber tailcap with a lighted switch.
From these, I only have the DT version and I don’t want to mess with the black metal button – which I like a lot – but I guess that a rubber cap will fit nicely even if the hole is narrower. There are narrower transparent tailcaps on Kaidomain if you wanna check on those Wink
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/14mm-D-x-8mm-H-Silicone-Tailcaps-Transpa...

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

Lightbringer
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Hey, I ordered that 10pak of FC switches from Simon, intending to try to shoehorn one into a ’502, C8, etc.

Do you know if these’d more or less drop into an S2+? Metal switch and/or rubber-boot?

Right now, I just wanna do something that doesn’t require major surgery…

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MascaratumB
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Lightbringer wrote:
Hey, I ordered that 10pak of FC switches from Simon, intending to try to shoehorn one into a ’502, C8, etc.

Do you know if these’d more or less drop into an S2+? Metal switch and/or rubber-boot?

Right now, I just wanna do something that doesn’t require major surgery…

Currently Simon is selling 2 kinds of forward swicth:
1 – https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/flashlight-forward-switch/33041...

2 – https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Special-flashlight-switch-125V-...

The first one is similar to the black one I showed before, while the second one seems to have a similar shape/size of the reverse clickies.

The 1rst one doesn’t fit well on metal button Convoys (well, at least not in Desert Tan version). I tried it before receiving the S2+ Mini, and it doesn’t work. On regular S2+, it fits well but you have to use an adequate rubber tailcap, meaning, probably you’ll have to cut the small piece of rubber inside the tailcap (see image above).

A month ago I ordered 2 reverse switches with PCB and spring, and 2 forward switches (no PCB, no spring). I “un-soldered” the RC, and soldered the FC on the PCB. It works fine and didn’t took many time to make this “surgery” Wink
As I said, to use it better, please note that the rubber tailcap is important!

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

Lightbringer
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MascaratumB wrote:
Currently Simon is selling 2 kinds of forward swicth:
1 – https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/flashlight-forward-switch/33041...

The first one is similar to the black one I showed before, while the second one seems to have a similar shape/size of the reverse clickies.

Yah, this one. Think that was the only kind he had in stock at the time. Figured it was cheap enough to gamble on trying to shoehorn in one of ‘em.

MascaratumB wrote:
The 1rst one doesn’t fit well on metal button Convoys (well, at least not in Desert Tan version). I tried it before receiving the S2+ Mini, and it doesn’t work. On regular S2+, it fits well but you have to use an adequate rubber tailcap, meaning, probably you’ll have to cut the small piece of rubber inside the tailcap (see image above).

Wellp, I got a couple of those 7buk blue/gray/whatever S2+es with the 1B emitter. Uggo green tailcap, but I can try to swap it later for a black one. Just wanted to see if it’d work. Big Smile

MascaratumB wrote:
A month ago I ordered 2 reverse switches with PCB and spring, and 2 forward switches (no PCB, no spring). I “un-soldered” the RC, and soldered the FC on the PCB. It works fine and didn’t took many time to make this “surgery” Wink

Yeah, that’s what I was hoping to do. Just a quick swap, no drilling, filing, dremelling, etc.

MascaratumB wrote:
As I said, to use it better, please note that the rubber tailcap is important!

Kewl. If I get adventurous, I might try it on a metal switch later.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

MascaratumB
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Lightbringer wrote:
Yah, this one. Think that was the only kind he had in stock at the time. Figured it was cheap enough to gamble on trying to shoehorn in one of ‘em.
[…]

Wellp, I got a couple of those 7buk blue/gray/whatever S2+es with the 1B emitter. Uggo green tailcap, but I can try to swap it later for a black one. Just wanted to see if it’d work. Big Smile
[…]

Yeah, that’s what I was hoping to do. Just a quick swap, no drilling, filing, dremelling, etc.
[…]

Kewl. If I get adventurous, I might try it on a metal switch later.

Hum, he started to sell the smallest ones some weeks ago only! I’ll get a bunch of the to use with other drivers I’m intending to get meanwhile, as the Biscotti with several modes configured isn’t going to work well!

Yuuck, those green caps are really…not nice Silly Orange fits better, but black and white/transparent are the best. Simon also sells them and they are better than the ones from Kaidomain (which are more “tough” to press).

The soldering of the FC on the PCB is doable. Mine didn’t went as I wanted, but it works fine!
The smaller (newer) FC seem to fit well on the S2+ with metal buttons due to its height! Wink

Get adventurous Evil I know that it is not consensual, but the metal button from the Desert Tan…is pretty nice for me Wink

REVIEWS : Amutorch S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A / Sofirn SP32A / Sofirn SP10B / Odepro KL52 / Acebeam H20 / SS AAA / Wuben TO10R / BlitzWolf BW-ET1 / Odepro B018 / DQG Slim Ti / XTAR PB2 Charger / Nitefox ES10K / Nitefox K3 / Amutorch AX1 / Amutorch VG10 / Olight M2R Warrior   

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7     Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses: XML2 / XPL-HI     Others: Convoy S2+ Mini (Biscotti 3 & 1*7135)     Sofirn K6 Discussion: 1 / 2 / 3    Triple TIR & XP-G2                   MY GIVEAWAY (FW3A) = ACTIVE

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

 

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