Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F early design teaser images.

771 posts / 0 new
Last post
Yourrid
Yourrid's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2013 - 09:41
Posts: 808
Location: NE ATL

Probably the only manufacturer that sells hosts along side their own lights from day 1.

I’m super excited to buy more from Sofirn!

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Online
Last seen: 14 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 6512
Location: Houston Texas

Dude, I didn’t even realize post #1 had been updated. That’s some nice pictures.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos including GT 

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

 

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 52 min 31 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 1526
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

I update the OP every time I got something new. Also put it in here as a new post.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Online
Last seen: 14 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 6512
Location: Houston Texas

ZozzV6 wrote:
I update the OP every time I got something new. Also put it in here as a new post.

I also didn’t realize this was your thread. Geez, I’m slippin. Sick

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos including GT 

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

 

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 52 min 31 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 1526
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

JasonWW wrote:
Geez, I’m slippin. Sick

Me too. I’m in night shift. Just building a Convoy L2 SST40 to a friend with a FET driver. Shorted the positive led wire soldering to the MCPCB screw. with driver hanging out and testing with power supply no problem. But when I assembled and the body get negative from batt and positive from the led wire…… just a flash and nothing… then I wasn’t able to click the switch. I know something is really bad so fast untwisted the tailcap. Got the magic smell but not smoke. Big Smile Fully charged Liitokala 26650 was warm. Driver spring collapsed fully with bypass so it acted as a fuse. Also the switch got stuck so I think the switch internal also melted and collapsed. I need a little break but an Eagle Eye X6 still waiting for build tonight.

teacher
teacher's picture
Online
Last seen: 13 min 24 sec ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 5497
Location: NE & SW Alabama

Dang…. Sad .. Glad all you got was “the magic smell”. Thumbs Up

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

       Texas Lumens Flashlights  <>   M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$    ||||

         Rudeness Level /\ mΩ /\ {width:70%} /\ LightWiki /\ LED Tint Chart /\ LED Tint Picture /\ Xlamp size chart /\ BatteryU                   Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???   wink   /\ TheOriginal /\ TAB /\ LightSearch /\ BatterySearch /\ 14500's /\ DiCal                                                       

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 52 min 31 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 1526
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

Everything else survived. Big Smile Me, driver, led, battery. Just the switch and one spring gone.
People make mistakes. Even after a few hundred mods. That is why we need to design safe lights even if they are hotrods. To make sure a newbie wont harm him/her….self.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 17484
Location: Heart of Texas

The Sofirn C8F is a unique light, I’d forgotten that the MCPCB is also screwed to the reflector with a single screw… this serves to keep the reflector from rotating on the MCPCB when the bezel is snugged down. There is a thin spacer that goes between the reflector and MCPCB but still, you can’t overtighten this screw or it will tilt the board and cause issues. Again, this one makes you do things differently, you have to put the wires on the MCPCB first, leave them long enough to attach to the driver then mount the driver. It’s all pretty tight, and tonight my fresh built Anduril driver didn’t like the switch. So I put in a new e-switch and this one has a little shorter actuation post, always something.

But I have it working, candlelight and everything looks good. Used the Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI , an Nichia 219C 5000K 90 CRI and one Cree XP-L HI V3 3A. Beam looks good, color looks good, all in all pretty dang sweet. Smile

Definitely a challenge compared to , say, an Eagle Eye X6. Wink

Reduced exposure to show hot spot, it’s actually even a bit smaller than shows here but this was my iPhone 8 with manual settings…

And more proper exposure in a lower mode to show color…

Moon is 0.276 lumens
Default ramp ceiling in Anduril is 1376.55 lumens
Turbo is 2590.95 lumens

Not bad at all with the 22 ga leads and a small CaroBronze spring on the driver. I Like It! Big Smile

Dale

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 17484
Location: Heart of Texas

The D1s that I took the Samsung emitter out of got my last Cree XP-L HD W2 1A emitter (W2 is rare) It’s “only” making 1346 lumens and I don’t know why, not going to look into it further tonight though. lol

Dale

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 17484
Location: Heart of Texas

On the lowest setting, i8 at 40ISO, f/1.8 aperture, 1/873 sec exposure…

Dale

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 15 min ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 907
Location: US

What is that yellow/greenish emitter on the top? The beam looks beautiful, no green at all!

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 17484
Location: Heart of Texas

On top, the Cree XP-L HI V3 3A, bottom right is the Nichia 219C 5000K 90 CRI and bottom left is the Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI.

This is looking at the emitters barely lit, combined output is just over 1/4 of a lumen, so the tint is not what you might would expect from a given emitter. Current to each one at this level is ridiculously low, barely enough to excite the phosphor.

The Cree is an HI, factory domeless… the other two have domes on.

I can take a shot with a much faster shutter of the emitters under more power but it shows the electronic shutter… I’ll see what I can do…

Dale

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 17484
Location: Heart of Texas

Perhaps their truer colors, this shot taken with my Apple i8 using manual camera controls, ISO 20 at f/1.8 with an amazing 1/50,000 of a second shutter speed! Light is on the full 7135 chip, a default “On” setting in Anduril after a cell change. This is approximately 130 lumens, no filters…

Dale

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 17484
Location: Heart of Texas

Ironically, these also cover 70, 80 and 90 CRI. Big Smile

Dale

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 15 min ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 907
Location: US

DB Custom wrote:
Perhaps their truer colors, this shot taken with my Apple i8 using manual camera controls, ISO 20 at f/1.8 with an amazing 1/50,000 of a second shutter speed! Light is on the full 7135 chip, a default “On” setting in Anduril after a cell change. This is approximately 130 lumens, no filters…

Thanks for the pic! Very helpful! I’m surprised the 3A tint is more yellow than the other two since 3A should be at or below the BBL. I’m surprised the 219C has less yellow than the Samsung because most of the 219c are a bit above the bbl.

adam7027
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 16 min ago
Joined: 09/26/2017 - 13:54
Posts: 115
Location: EU (Hu)
SKV89 wrote:
Thanks for the pic! Very helpful! I’m surprised the 3A tint is more yellow than the other two since 3A should be at or below the BBL. I’m surprised the 219C has less yellow than the Samsung because most of the 219c are a bit above the bbl.

Probably because this specific sample of Samsung LH351D is 80CRI, which means less medium blue, cyan, and bluish green is emitted compared to the 90CRI 219C.

Indeed, a lower CRI emitter can be seen as more yellowish (and same time, more purple) because of the cyan deficit. In these cases, being way under the BBL strengthens the purple look, closing in to the BBL or going above it strengthens the yellow look (but this is also dependent of the equivalent CCT).

The_Driver
The_Driver's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 10/20/2016 - 05:51
Posts: 971
Location: Germany

Will the 21700 battery tube have the same threads as the 18650 C8 tube? Probably not, but I want to make sure anyway.

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 52 min 31 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 1526
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

No. The head’s lower part also made bigger.

the4ds9
the4ds9's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 19 min ago
Joined: 10/28/2017 - 17:06
Posts: 74

This will be a cool flashlight to welcome and celebrate the year 2020. We are less than a year and a half from there. Star Wars IX is coming out on Dec. 20, 2019. We’re almost there gang!

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Online
Last seen: 14 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 6512
Location: Houston Texas

the4ds9 wrote:
This will be a cool flashlight to welcome and celebrate the year 2020. We are less than a year and a half from there. Star Wars IX is coming out on Dec. 20, 2019. We’re almost there gang!

2020? It could be out in a few weeks maybe. IDK for sure, but not too long.

Bombay says about July 20th, but that seems too soon. I will not complain if it’s true. I would just like it tested and working good instead of it rushing for a fast release.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware, lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70, Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos including GT 

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

 

zeremefico
zeremefico's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 03/27/2012 - 02:44
Posts: 1284
Location: Greece

Hi, great light!
Are there any plans for 21700, side switch, single led setup?

₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪

My YouTube channel

Flashlights & edc gear

K40M F16

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 52 min 31 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 1526
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

zeremefico wrote:
Hi, great light!
Are there any plans for 21700, side switch, single led setup?

I tried to convince them but no answer.
contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 403
Location: US
zeremefico wrote:
Hi, great light! Are there any plans for 21700, side switch, single led setup?

Except for the side switch “Nightwatch EC21” is just that

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 52 min 31 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 1526
Location: Near to my soldering iron.
contactcr wrote:
zeremefico wrote:
Hi, great light! Are there any plans for 21700, side switch, single led setup?

Except for the side switch “Nightwatch EC21” is just that


The side switch what he wanted first place. Except for the side switch there are thousands of options with tail clicky single led flashlights.
contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 403
Location: US

There are also things like the MiniGT, etc which have side switches. It’s more rare to find 21700 tubes.

ZozzV6
ZozzV6's picture
Offline
Last seen: 52 min 31 sec ago
Joined: 03/24/2016 - 12:19
Posts: 1526
Location: Near to my soldering iron.

That is true. But if somebody want modding the mini GT driver is glued and special. in a sofirn you can build what you want so I will keep pushing that idea to them Wink

Yourrid
Yourrid's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2013 - 09:41
Posts: 808
Location: NE ATL

I just got my C8F host in from Mountain Electronics, man this is a great looking light Love

I have a question for y’all though. This is my first time installing a driver into a light with a side switch, so I’m wondering where the leads get connected for the side switch. Reading around I think this is correct.


Under the green circle it says “OTC,” but it didn’t come with that resistor. Is this the correct place for the e-switch leads? I’ve read you can also connect the + to the MCU #2, and the – to any ground. But the OTC pads are supposedly better to use. I’m fairly confident that was what Richard was explaining over on his thread here: Comment #7944

Also, the driver didn’t come with any of the resistors under the yellow circle. I complicitly trust that Richard left them off for a reason. Just out of curiosity, what are they for?

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 17484
Location: Heart of Texas

R1 and R2 are typically the low voltage protection circuit. If you have Guppydrv or something like that which doesn’t use low voltage protection there’s no point in having those on there.

I usually solder one of the e-switch leads to pin 2 on the MCU. (The MCU is marked with a triangle or recessed dot at pin 1 , the board has an asterisk there, numbered 1-2-3-4 on the left in your picture, going around the clock to the other side is 5-6-7-8 with 8 being up on the inside) There is no “+” and “-” by the way, you’re just interrupting the circuit. The best ground (as if it mattered here, is the outer 3 legs of the FET, lot of space there anyway for a ground point, you could also use leg 4 of the MCU, or that OTC leg closest to the ground ring, just check for continuity with your multi-meter for ground.

Dale

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 17484
Location: Heart of Texas

FWIW, under the green circle OTC means Off Time Cap, the brown capacitor. Above it, the smaller black component is a resistor that is used to keep spikes down, this helps keep the light from flashing when entering the FET mode.

Dale

Yourrid
Yourrid's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 36 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2013 - 09:41
Posts: 808
Location: NE ATL

Dale, thank you so much for the info man! I was hoping to get this C8F together tonight, but I seem to be out of 20awg wire. 18 gauge fits, but 22 gauge is too big for the center hole on the driver. I definitely want the least amount of resistance on this powerhouse so I’m going to assemble it tomorrow when I get some 20 gauge. Thumbs Up

Edit: Reverse the 18/22 gauge wires and it’ll make more sense Facepalm

Pages