Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

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DB Custom
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Your normal light accepts the 18650 with a higher level of compression on the springs, the new one is barely making contact. Hence a lot of difference in output.

Not sure about the switching action, can you check that the retaining rings on the driver and switch board are snug?

JasonWW
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The top of the ramp should only be about 1800 lumens. You need to double click to go to 3000 lumens Turbo.

It’s also possible that you may have locked out the light when you were trying to switch modes. Actually, I’m not sure it has an electronic lockout.

d_t_a
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Got hold of a Sofirn C8F 21700.

The manual’s explanation for the UI seems to be a bit lacking, or fails to explain too well.

From how I understand how it works:

There are 4 mode groups for selection: – Group 1 has only 1 selectable mode – Group 2 has 3 selectable modes – Group 3 has 4 selectable modes – Group 4 is ramping mode

- now for Groups 1 to 3, aside from the selectable modes in that group, a double-click will go to Turbo mode,
- now (for Groups 1 to 3) to go to Moon mode, hold the side switch until the flashlight turns Off (“standby” mode), now hold down the side switch longer and it will turn on in Moon mode
- another observation (for Groups 1 to 3), when going to Turbo mode, there seems to be a short ramping effect (it doesn’t instantaneously go to Turbo, but rather takes maybe 1 second to ramp brightness from High to Turbo mode)

- note that Group 1 has only 1 mode, so clicking the side switch will not seem to do anything since it has only 1 mode (double-clicking will go to Turbo mode though)

JasonWW
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Here’s Zozzv6’s earlier post on the UI.

Ramp top is not adjustable. 1800 lumen is safe and sustainable output in this light with some warming. Turbo is I think 3000 lumen will be in factory data but they measured 3500 on a prototype. Better than tell more and get less. Visually to the eye it is no t a huge jump from 1800 to 3000.
If they use this firmware in the SP70 I think there will be ramp top at about 4000 lumens and turbo about 6-7000. My XHP70.2 MF02 with Andúril is setted up ramp top at 4000 and turbo at 8-9000 depends on battery level and type.

Here is the complete menu:
4 mode Groups:
Group 1: 500lm
Group 2: 100lm—700lm—1800lm
Group 3: 10lm—100lm—500lm—1800lm
Group 4: Ramping from 1lm—-3500lm 
In any mode, including OFF, hold 1 second to go to Moonlight
In any mode, Double-click to go to Turbo 3500lm, one click to go to the previous mod

Group 1/ Group 2/ Group 3:
Short click the side switch to cycle through modes: Eco→ Low → Mid→ High→ Eco→ Low→etc.
Press the side switch for 0.5 seconds to enter Standby (main led is off).
4 Four fast clicks convert from one group to the other, 2 blinks confirm the change.
Group 4: Ramping
Press and hold side switch to ramp up or down. Ramping changes direction when press button again within 1.5 seconds, same direction when ramping again after 1.5 seconds. The light blinks when it reaches Moonlight or Turbo. When the light is on, click to Standby.
No matter in which group:
Hold and press the side switch for 1 second to enter Moonlight from Standby, one click returns to Standby.
Double clicks to activate Turbo mode from On / Standby, one click returns to the last brightness used or Standby.
Triple clicks to activate Strobe mode from On / Standby, one click returns to the last brightness used or Standby.

Memory Function: The last brightness used can be memorized when convert from Group to Group. When it goes back to the group, it starts from the remembered brightness level.

OFF
Press and hold the side switch for 0.5 seconds to enter Standby (except in Ramping Mode).
Click the tail switch to Cut Off. Please click both tail switch and the side switch to turn on if the light was in Standby last time.

Advanced Temperature Regulation (ATR) technology: 
If the head temperature reaches 50 ℃ (122 °F), the flashlight will automatically throttle down to lower mode to avoid overheating

Pete7874
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JasonWW wrote:
The top of the ramp should only be about 1800 lumens. You need to double click to go to 3000 lumens Turbo.


ZozzV6 posted contradicting information about this because he also posted this:

Quote:
Group 4: Ramping from 1lm—-3500lm

So which one is correct?
JasonWW
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Pete7874 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
The top of the ramp should only be about 1800 lumens. You need to double click to go to 3000 lumens Turbo.


ZozzV6 posted contradicting information about this because he also posted this:

Quote:
Group 4: Ramping from 1lm—-3500lm

So which one is correct?

I guess we will find out! Lol

I don’t have my light yet so I haven’t been able to run any tests on it and verify the UI.

Moleyman69
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Hi and thanks for taking the time to reply everybody.

@DB Custom – the light has spring bypasses at the head and tail cap so would the battery length difference (ie spring compression) be that much of a concern re the loss of output?

I have been fiddling with the interface and am still having issues with it getting stuck. I will persevere as it seems like a really nice light outwardly.

Thanks again, everyone.

Moley

BlueSwordM
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Yes. Battery compression strength is extremely important, especially in regards to springs.

Low compression force by the battery in the spring can result in very high contact resistance, especially if the spring wire isn’t thick(0,8mm in this case) and if it’s made of a hard material, like steel, although a gold coating helps quite a bit since it’s soft, but the problem still remains.

That means two things to fix it in the Sofirn C8F for complete 18650 compatibility:

1. Making the springs longer and thicker to lower contact resistance significantly without changing the material.

2. Solder a small 2mm thick brass button on top of the springs. You will get maximum compression, therefore lowest contact resistance possible if you use it with an 18650. It would work with a 21700, granting you maximum performance possible by making the spring fully compressed, but you would probably sacrifice protected 21700 compatibility.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

TheAuditor
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Pete7874 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
The top of the ramp should only be about 1800 lumens. You need to double click to go to 3000 lumens Turbo.


ZozzV6 posted contradicting information about this because he also posted this:
Quote:
Group 4: Ramping from 1lm—-3500lm
So which one is correct?

I make it 3500 lumens in comparison to other flashlights off a ceiling bounce test.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

contactcr
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The confusion was does it require double click to turbo to get 3500lm or can you ramp all the way to 100% turbo

Pete7874
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TheAuditor wrote:
Pete7874 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
The top of the ramp should only be about 1800 lumens. You need to double click to go to 3000 lumens Turbo.


ZozzV6 posted contradicting information about this because he also posted this:
Quote:
Group 4: Ramping from 1lm—-3500lm
So which one is correct?

I make it 3500 lumens in comparison to other flashlights off a ceiling bounce test.


Just to be clear, I wasn’t questioning the max lumen output of this light. I was asking whether it can reach its max output in ramping mode, or if ramping mode is limited to some lower output. Some statements said ramping is limited to 1800 lumen then you have to press something to kick it up to max, while others said ramping goes all the way to 3500 lm.
TheAuditor
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That was the top of the ramping.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

JasonWW
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TheAuditor wrote:
That was the top of the ramping.

I’m still not clear. Are you saying the top of the ramp is the same as turbo? It does not stop short?
TheAuditor
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JasonWW wrote:
TheAuditor wrote:
That was the top of the ramping.
I’m still not clear. Are you saying the top of the ramp is the same as turbo? It does not stop short?

Yes the top of the ramping is around 3500 lumens in comparison to other flashlights with that output.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

DB Custom
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Pretty sure the eye can’t compare 3500 lumens of light between different flashlights. You need a light box. The eye can easily misread hundreds of lumens, even a thousand. A slight difference in the beam profile or the tint of the output, the eye reads it differently.

The light box shows even small differences, whether or not the light box is 100% accurate it IS accurate at showing differences between lights or modifications. And that’s why we as individuals have light boxes, to show a gain or a loss when we are modding lights.

JasonWW
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It was Moleyman69 that said his new 21700 light seemed weaker than his older 18650 version. I was wanting him to try double clicking to see if it improved.

I imagine we will get some good tests in the next week as more lights get delivered.

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Mine on it’s way. I will measure everything I can. Lumens, cd, throw, current, heat, sizes, other C8 model compatibility.

JasonWW
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Mine on it’s way. I will measure everything I can. Lumens, cd, throw, current, heat, sizes, other C8 model compatibility.

Same here, I’ll toss it on the ol TA Lumen Tube. Lol

I can’t do compatibility, though because I don’t have the original.

TheAuditor
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DB Custom wrote:
Pretty sure the eye can’t compare 3500 lumens of light between different flashlights. You need a light box. The eye can easily misread hundreds of lumens, even a thousand. A slight difference in the beam profile or the tint of the output, the eye reads it differently.

The light box shows even small differences, whether or not the light box is 100% accurate it IS accurate at showing differences between lights or modifications. And that’s why we as individuals have light boxes, to show a gain or a loss when we are modding lights.

Please see post 985

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

JasonWW
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TheAuditor wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
Pretty sure the eye can’t compare 3500 lumens of light between different flashlights. You need a light box. The eye can easily misread hundreds of lumens, even a thousand. A slight difference in the beam profile or the tint of the output, the eye reads it differently.

The light box shows even small differences, whether or not the light box is 100% accurate it IS accurate at showing differences between lights or modifications. And that’s why we as individuals have light boxes, to show a gain or a loss when we are modding lights.

Please see post 985


DB should have been refering to Moleyman69’s post about the new model C8F looking weaker than the older model. Moleyman69 does not have any measuring devices, just his eyes. I hope this clears up any confusion.
Moleyman69
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Hi everyone

I do have measuring equipment – the light meter I mention in my first post #991 that produced the ceiling bounce comparison Turbo mode numbers that I listed – but it isn’t a very expensive one but it does seem to be consistent.

Also, it is the double-click Turbo modes that I am comparing.

Hope this helps to clear up any misunderstandings.

Thanks again

Moley

JasonWW
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Moleyman69 wrote:
Hi everyone

I do have measuring equipment – the light meter I mention in my first post #991 that produced the ceiling bounce comparison Turbo mode numbers that I listed – but it isn’t a very expensive one but it does seem to be consistent.

Also, it is the double-click Turbo modes that I am comparing.

Hope this helps to clear up any misunderstandings.

Thanks again

Moley


Okay.
A ceiling bounce test between lights that have the same beam pattern can be a good comparison.

So you have both versions of the C8F, but only an 18650 battery?

You’ve tried the new light at the top of the ramp and a dbl clk and it’s still weaker than the old light?

Keep in mind that part of the reason the new light is rated at a higher lumen is because of the more powerful 21700 cell. So in theory, both your lights should have about the same output.

What DB said about the longer battery tube on the new light not pushing the springs very hard against the battery ends might be a reason. If it pushes with very light contact it can create a lot of resistance.

Here’s something you can try. Take a short and thick piece of wire and bypass the tail cap. Run the wire between the negative battery end and the bare metal on the battery tube. At the same time push on the battery so it presses against the front spring firmly. If doing this gives you equal output to your older light then we know the light itself is okay.

Like with all new lights, you should make sure the driver and tail switch retaining rings are tight and haven’t loosened up in transport.

Moleyman69
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Hi

I have ordered a couple of Sofirn 21700 cells to try and see if they help.

Still getting nowhere with the lock ups though Sad

Thanks again all for taking the time to reply.

Enjoy your weekend

Moley

JasonWW
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Moleyman69 wrote:
Hi

I have ordered a couple of Sofirn 21700 cells to try and see if they help.

Still getting nowhere with the lock ups though Sad

Thanks again all for taking the time to reply.

Enjoy your weekend

Moley


Did you successfully figure out how to switch from ramping to one of the other modes?

I’m still not sure how it’s done. Lol

You never explained what the lock ups where doing. Does it just stop responding or does it not register all of the clicks properly? Do you think your switch may not be making good contact or does it seem more like something in the software that is hanging up?

contactcr
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Ordered 2x hosts on 8/29 and it looks like maybe it was finally shipped today but the tracking is pretty vague.

TheAuditor
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I just stuck an 18650 battery in to check performance in comparison to the 21700 and measured 420 lux for the 18650 against 460 lux for the 21700. The 18650 was a decent Klarus high current one.

So there is a bit of difference. Both batteries were fully charged.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

Moleyman69
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Hi,

With the light on and in ramping mode try clicking the side button 4 times on quick succession – the light should blink 2 times indicating that it has switched back in to Group 1.

Regarding lock ups I’m not sure if it is the side switch not responding or the light just “crashes” but for example when clicking between levels (not groups) I have had the light go Low > click > Medium > click > High > click > Low > click > Medium > click – nothing still in Medium > click – still nothing, still in Medium > click and hold – sometimes the light stays on other times it goes off. Then I pull the battery to start again.

Hopefully, the new cells might help shrugs – fingers crossed Smile

Thanks again,

Moley

JasonWW
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Moleyman69 wrote:
Hi,

With the light on and in ramping mode try clicking the side button 4 times on quick succession – the light should blink 2 times indicating that it has switched back in to Group 1.

Regarding lock ups I’m not sure if it is the side switch not responding or the light just “crashes” but for example when clicking between levels (not groups) I have had the light go Low > click > Medium > click > High > click > Low > click > Medium > click – nothing still in Medium > click – still nothing, still in Medium > click and hold – sometimes the light stays on other times it goes off. Then I pull the battery to start again.

Hopefully, the new cells might help shrugs – fingers crossed Smile

Thanks again,

Moley


Hmmm, I don’t think the battery is going to have any effect on the switch.

It’s possible the switch may not be making good contact internally or the rubber cover is not centered. I’m not really sure. You could try unscrewing the bezel on the switch and removing the rubber cover then push on the metal switch directly and see if it still does it.

There is another way to test it by bypassing the switch, but I don’t know how familiar you are with electronics.

Moleyman69
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Hi Jason,

I know what you mean about the batteries but you never know.

I don’t really want to start pulling the light apart as it kinda works at the moment and I would probably kill it completely if I were to start fiddling too much Smile

Given the number of Sofirn lights that I already have that work absolutely fine and the bargain price that they are, to get one that is a bit faulty isn’t really the end of the world I guess – just a little disappointing.

All the best,

Moley

JasonWW
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Moleyman69 wrote:
Hi Jason,

I know what you mean about the batteries but you never know.

I don’t really want to start pulling the light apart as it kinda works at the moment and I would probably kill it completely if I were to start fiddling too much Smile

Given the number of Sofirn lights that I already have that work absolutely fine and the bargain price that they are, to get one that is a bit faulty isn’t really the end of the world I guess – just a little disappointing.

All the best,

Moley


You can still contact Sofirn about a warranty. They may ask you to make a video showing the problem. Some companies do that. See what they say. You shouldn’t just accept a faulty light.

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