Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

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JordanZHP
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Thank you Jason and dta for the detailed responses!

DB Custom
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I was among the first to test the triple C8, but then, my drain is bamaged so what I recall is likely to be skewed. Sorry.

Di_Joker
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Prompt please: the sealing ring of glass should be laid from the side of the bezel ring or from the side of the reflector?
1)bezel ring->sealing ring->glass->reflector
or
2)bezel ring->glass->sealing ring->reflector
?

Sorry for my poor english.

JasonWW
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Di_Joker wrote:
Prompt please: the sealing ring of glass should be laid from the side of the bezel ring or from the side of the reflector?
1)bezel ring->sealing ring->glass->reflector
or
2)bezel ring->glass->sealing ring->reflector
?

I don’t own one, but I think this picture is correct.


1)bezel ring->sealing ring (o-ring)->glass->reflector

It looks like there is a groove for the O-ring to fit into on the bezel.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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d_t_a
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Di_Joker wrote:
Prompt please: the sealing ring of glass should be laid from the side of the bezel ring or from the side of the reflector? 1)bezel ring->sealing ring->glass->reflector or 2)bezel ring->glass->sealing ring->reflector ?

I concur. In most C8 flashlights, I notice they use (1) bezel ring -> o-ring -> glass -> reflector

Di_Joker
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You are best! Thank you!

Sorry for my poor english.

SKV89
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Received my C8F 21700. The size is just a tiny bit larger than the 18650 version. The finish is a tad bit shinier than the mat finish on the 18650 version. Tint is a little cooler than the 18650 version, but both are pretty decent. It comes with a sleeve to allow use of 18650. Both versions come with factory spring bypasses. The following are my test results from a TA Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka calibration lights.

C8F 21700 on Samsung 21700 30T: 2,890 lumens at 1s
C8F 21700 on Sony 18650 VTC5D: 2,500 lumens at 1s
C8F 18650 on Sony 18650 VTC5D: 3,155 lumens at 1s

This is very disappointing considering Sofirn rates the C8F 21700 version at 3,500 lumens. They rated the C8F 18650 version at 2,580 lumens only. I’m surprised why the 21700 version performs worst than the 18650 version. Usually Sofirn lumen specs are very accurate or even under rated so not sure how did they screw up so bad this time.

the4ds9
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Sofirn C8F 21700! Big Smile

BlueSwordM
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@SKV89, I have the feeling the spring bypasses are done with thinner wire, and aren’t done as well.

That could be the culprit, along with perhaps lower spring compression force resulting in much higher contact resistance. There could be many reasons for this.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

JasonWW
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SKV89 wrote:
Received my C8F 21700. The size is just a tiny bit larger than the 18650 version. The finish is a tad bit shinier than the mat finish on the 18650 version. Tint is a little cooler than the 18650 version, but both are pretty decent. It comes with a sleeve to allow use of 18650. Both versions come with factory spring bypasses. The following are my test results from a TA Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka calibration lights.

C8F 21700 on Samsung 21700 30T: 2,890 lumens at 1s
C8F 21700 on Sony 18650 VTC5D: 2,500 lumens at 1s
C8F 18650 on Sony 18650 VTC5D: 3,155 lumens at 1s

This is very disappointing considering Sofirn rates the C8F 21700 version at 3,500 lumens. They rated the C8F 18650 version at 2,580 lumens only. I’m surprised why the 21700 version performs worst than the 18650 version. Usually Sofirn lumen specs are very accurate or even under rated so not sure how did they screw up so bad this time.


There may be too much resistance in the new tail switch they added. Try measuring the output with the tail cap off and a thick wire across the battery and battery tube. See if the output jumps up.

There’s not much that has changed between the old c8f and the new one. The driver is different but it’s still FET driven. I assume they are using a good FET, maybe not. The tail cap and switch assembly is new as well.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

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ZozzV6
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Or try it with the same 18650 as the 18650 version.

BlueSwordM
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Oh I had not thought about the tailswitch.

I really wish there was a regular tailcap without a switch, or a way to mod it.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

d_t_a
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BlueSwordM wrote:
@SKV89, I have the feeling the spring bypasses are done with thinner wire, and aren’t done as well.

That could be the culprit, along with perhaps lower spring compression force resulting in much higher contact resistance. There could be many reasons for this.

Maybe it could have something to do with the spring bypass wires then.

Unfortunately, the spring bypass wire on my C8F 18650 broke, and I’m not sure I can solder that thing back (will need to buy a new thicker wire, but my problem is my soldering iron probably isn’t sharp enough to solder inside that small space.) Similarly, my SP32Av1 spring-bypass wire also disconnected (it was drawing upwards of 8 amps when I tested [using UT210E] the tailcap current back when the wire was intact). The C8F 18650 was drawing more than 10 amps tailcap current on Turbo when the bypass wire was intact (and now with the broken wire, it registers a bit less than 8 amps now). The tailcap current on my C8F 21700 measures around 8amps only, and as far as I can determine, its spring-bypass wire is still intact (not broken).

BTW, what kind of soldering iron or tip do I need to do spring-bypass wires on enclosed spaces like on the SP32Av1 or C8F-18650? I’d like to get them back to full throttle..

JasonWW
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Oh I had not thought about the tailswitch.

I really wish there was a regular tailcap without a switch, or a way to mod it.


If the tail switch is problematic, it’s easily bypassed.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

BlueSwordM
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@JasonWW, thanks.

@SKV89, just bypass the tailswitch first. You will lose tailswitch functionality, but lower resistance by a lot.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

JasonWW
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BlueSwordM wrote:
@JasonWW, thanks.

@SKV89, just bypass the tailswitch first. You will lose tailswitch functionality, but lower resistance by a lot.


No, what I’m saying is bypass the tail cap (not the switch) and see if that fixes the issue. If the lumens jump up then there is something about the tailcap reducing output. We then need to look at the spring, the switch, the retaining ring and the threads.

If the output does not jump up, then we know the tailcap is fine. We look elsewhere. Like at the driver, it’s retaining ring, etc…

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

eas
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I just replaced bypasses on my C8F driver and C8A driver and tailcap.

d_t_a, I don’t know about other people, but I don’t try adding or fixing bypasses in place. I take the tail cap apart. Next, I either remove (desolder) the switch, or protect it from heat by clipping aluminum heat-sink clips on the leads. Then, I desolder the tail spring, add the bypass and then reverse the process. I use a fat (~3mm) tip for the whole thing.

.

d_t_a
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eas wrote:
I just replaced bypasses on my C8F driver and C8A driver and tailcap.

d_t_a, I don’t know about other people, but I don’t try adding or fixing bypasses in place. I take the tail cap apart. Next, I either remove (desolder) the switch, or protect it from heat by clipping aluminum heat-sink clips on the leads. Then, I desolder the tail spring, add the bypass and then reverse the process. I use a fat (~3mm) tip for the whole thing.

Thanks for explaning the process. So it’s really more complicated to do properly. Likely beyond my skills and my simple equipment..
I wish that Sofirn would have use a thicker wire for their bypasses and solder more properly from the factory… Should likely send them a friendly ‘complaint’ about this issue. Since it happened on both my SP32A and C8F (the tail-portion bypass got cut, likely due to inability to handle that much current on Turbo mode?)

Moleyman69
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I’m glad my light meter wasnt imagining things then re my 18650 version being brighter than my 21700 version.

If the Sofirn 21700 cells that I ordered additionally do not help the situation I will definitely be in touch with Sofirn for a friendly word especially as I am still having crashing issues (although it hasn’t been as bad the last few days) as I bought the 21700 version of this light plus 2 21700 cells as it was supposedly rated with a much higher output Sad

All the best

Moley

JasonWW
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Moleyman69 wrote:
I’m glad my light meter wasnt imagining things then re my 18650 version being brighter than my 21700 version.

If the Sofirn 21700 cells that I ordered additionally do not help the situation I will definitely be in touch with Sofirn for a friendly word especially as I am still having crashing issues (although it hasn’t been as bad the last few days) as I bought the 21700 version of this light plus 2 21700 cells as it was supposedly rated with a much higher output Sad

All the best

Moley


Let some more people get it so we can figure out the problem. It might be a simple fix.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

contactcr
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I think someone needs to try doing as JasonWW suggests and remove tail cap and just firmly press a stiff wire to negative battery and the non anodized end of tail thread.

If that doesn’t show any difference then I guess checking/comparing driver wires (diameter/length) and components (FET) would be the next step. I only ordered hosts which haven’t arrived yet so I wont be any help.

Moleyman69
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Would a metal paper clip suffice?

contactcr
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a scrap of copper wiring would probably be best. like the stuff you find as a “ground wire” in a light fixture or scraps trimmed from household electrical wires

DB Custom
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Or a copper coin. Wink

contactcr
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Silver dollar!

DB Custom
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Might be difficult to angle the larger coin into the battery tube to bridge the cell to the edge of the tube. Wink

BlueSwordM
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@contactr, never use a paperclip.

Trust me. You do not want molten steel on your hands.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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Woohoo! My 21700 C8 host made it to the US! It’s in customs at LA, maybe another week or less…

Moleyman69
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Hi everyone,

Just an update…

My 2 × 21700 Sofirn branded cells have arrived and I have duly tried those in my C8F-21700 and I am still getting the same range of figures as I was previously (235-240 for 21700 version light, and 275-280 for 18650 version of the light). This is the really disappointing bit for me as the 21700 version is supposed to be around 3500 lumens and the 18650 around 2500.

Now, whether I would be able to “see” the extra 1000 lumens or not, I didn’t expect it to come in at less than the 2500 lumen version Smile Especially with the added expense of buying the Sofirn 21700 cells too.

Tracy from Sofirn has been good enough to get in touch with me so hopefully I/we may be able to get some further info.

All the best,

Moley

JasonWW
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Sofirn told me that in their tests they were getting around 3500 lumen. So they are stumped.

I still don’t think anybody has tried to simply bypass the entire tail cap with a piece of copper wire and measure the lumen output (like a ceiling bounce) to see if it jumps up or not. This is really easy to do and it eliminates the rear spring, rear switch, threaded contacts, etc… It can really help us to diagnose the problem.

Ps, mine is still being shipped so I can’t do anything to help, but make suggestions.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

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