Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

1382 posts / 0 new
Last post
JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10895
Location: Houston Texas

SKV89 wrote:

I just swapped out the older driver with Sofirn’s replacement driver and measured it with both Samsung 40T and 30T and got 2,870 lumens at 1s. Basically no difference at all Sad

First of all, we can’t expect a 920 lumen boost just by going from an 18650 to a 21700 battery. Sofirn seems to have overrated it at 3500. A more accurate rating would be 2900 to 3000 lumen.

I wonder if there was nothing wrong with the original FET? Maybe it was just a bad connection with the driver retaining ring?

When I swapped my FET, I of course retightened the retaining ring. I saw 2 extra amps at the tail. I assume this is from the new FET.

With the Sofirn battery:

Stock driver about 7.2A at tail
After FET swap about 9.3A at tail
Later I measured 7.7A
I fiddled with the retaining ring and got 9.6A

So did the new FET help or was it just the retaining ring?

At 9.6A I was getting about 2900 lumen so that is about all that can be expected. Let’s say 3000 lumen at Turn On.

Yours seems to be performing pretty close to what I would expect. Only 300 lumen less at Turn On with the 30T. Try messing with the retaining ring to see if you can get a few more hundred lumens.

I can see your results are inconsistent. The VTC5D is a good high drain cell. I don’t think it should be 400 lumen less. All 3 of your tests should be about 3155 lumen. My guess is it’s the retaining ring. Get it tight.

If you want an extra 200 to 300 lumen boost, try swapping the led wires to 18ga. I was seeing 3300-3400 lumen with this change.

Upgrading the driver spring bypass wire might squeeze a bit more.

Ps, I see in my notes that the driver retaining ring had a little bit of glue on the threads from the factory. Maybe this glue residue is hurting electrial contact?

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 2584
Location: US

I wasnt trying to compare difference between 40T and 30T. The replacement driver did absolutely nothing. I couldnt fet tje reflector out to replace the wires. The reflector is glued tight. I will try playing with the retaining ring

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2051
Location: US

Just in case you missed it the reflector is screwed in. Take out the driver and its dead center in the shelf from the underside.

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 2584
Location: US
contactcr wrote:
Just in case you missed it the reflector is screwed in. Take out the driver and its dead center in the shelf from the underside.

oh you’re right. Oh well, I’m too lazy to redo it now.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10895
Location: Houston Texas

SKV89 wrote:
I wasnt trying to compare difference between 40T and 30T.

Neither was I. Sorry if I gave you that impression.
Funtastic
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
Joined: 06/26/2014 - 02:14
Posts: 239
Location: New Zealand

Hmmm the ramping on this is weird.

If I double click to Turbo I can’t hold to ramp down, I first must click to return to previous mode or press & hold switches it off. If Turbo is reached through ramping then it behaves as expected. Also while on Turbo any additional double presses causes a drop and fast rise to turbo again. It shouldn’t do anything if already on Turbo.

Very annoying

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10895
Location: Houston Texas

It’s seems to be designed to give a smooth ramp up to turbo over a second or two when double clicked. There’s not much of a need to double click if you are already ramped to the top, so that shouldn’t be an issue. I do prefer an instant jump to turbo. I’m not sure why they did this.

I haven’t tried to ramp down after double clicking to turbo. I guess I haven’t needed to. I usually use it at a lower level, then double click to turbo for a very short time then single click back to the memorized level.

No UI is perfect. If it’s really bothersome, Lexel should be offering some 21mm drivers soon. A 20mm will fit if you modify the retaining ring. Then you’ll have some other UI options. Thumbs Up

Funtastic
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
Joined: 06/26/2014 - 02:14
Posts: 239
Location: New Zealand

I guess it’s not too bad, just took a bit to get used to after using the Q8. On the NarsilM you double click to Turbo and can ramp down from it.

I imported the new C8F to sell so wasn’t sure what to make of the double click flickering at Turbo.

What’s the red stuff they’ve covered over the solder on the driver for the switch wires?

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10895
Location: Houston Texas

Funtastic wrote:

What’s the red stuff they’ve covered over the solder on the driver for the switch wires?


I have no idea. I haven’t looked at it close.
eas
eas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/14/2014 - 18:53
Posts: 1354
Location: PNW

It looks like strain relief for the joints.

.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10895
Location: Houston Texas

The replacement drivers do not have that red covering.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 19888
Location: Heart of Texas

Kawi, your brite work a little bit back is stunning! Excellent work man! Really slicks up the all black light, for sure….

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3614
Location: The Motor City

DB Custom wrote:
Kawi, your brite work a little bit back is stunning! Excellent work man! Really slicks up the all black light, for sure….

Thanks Dale! Wink Got bored during a 24hr machine endurance run and the shop lathe was in the isle next to it. Didn’t notice the plant manager was standing behind me, he’s like a Ninja, scared the hell out of me, when I heard somebody say behind me…wow that’s beautiful… I jumped he jumped Shocked He’s cool, borrows lights from me all the time, needs to buy a couple the money he makes….. Cash I let him borrow it the weekend before opening day, he brought it back,,, this is way too much light for me, got anything smaller? He loved the MH20GT… sent him a link and code, he can get his own. Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 12183
Location: LI NY

Agree, that C8F 21700 treatment is awesome! I got 351D 4000K 90 CRI's is my first 21700 host, just ordered a 2nd host. Really like how the XPL HI V2 5D's look in a triple, probably will do them in the next. Ohh - just noticed Richard is low on them - order 6 of last 8 just now...

 

HarleyQuin
HarleyQuin's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 03/29/2013 - 04:47
Posts: 580

JasonWW wrote:
I wonder if there was nothing wrong with the original FET? Maybe it was just a bad connection with the driver retaining ring?
I doubt the problem was the original FET.

According to the markings (2D030L) the old one is the NXP PSMN2R0-30YLD, which has a Rdson of about 2mOhm. That’s already really low. No way changing that to any other FET could gain 2 Amps, except the 2D030L
- is fake,
- is defect or
- was soldered badly.

But I assume you found the real flaw with the retaining ring. And I lift my hat for that, because that would be a design flaw that’s very easy to overlook.

My fix would be to file down the lower part of the threading of the retaining ring in a 45° angle, so that enough threading is left but the ring can sit lower. That should give good contact.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 19888
Location: Heart of Texas

Hey Tom, nice to see you… hope everything’s been all right… been a while!

eas
eas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 07/14/2014 - 18:53
Posts: 1354
Location: PNW

I have a C8F v2 host I ordered right when they first became available. I haven’t managed to finish building a light with it, but I check the driver I plan to use with it for fit. The PCB is one of the Oshpark 2oz copper boards, which are really thin (0.8mm). The retaining ring clamps down nice and tight.

So, bad driver/ring fitment may be a problem for some lights, but not all of them.

.

d_t_a
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 23 hours ago
Joined: 08/04/2017 - 23:58
Posts: 1213
Location: Manila, Philippines

HarleyQuin wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
I wonder if there was nothing wrong with the original FET? Maybe it was just a bad connection with the driver retaining ring?
I doubt the problem was the original FET.

According to the markings (2D030L) the old one is the NXP PSMN2R0-30YLD, which has a Rdson of about 2mOhm. That’s already really low. No way changing that to any other FET could gain 2 Amps, except the 2D030L
- is fake,
- is defect or
- was soldered badly.

But I assume you found the real flaw with the retaining ring. And I lift my hat for that, because that would be a design flaw that’s very easy to overlook.

My fix would be to file down the lower part of the threading of the retaining ring in a 45° angle, so that enough threading is left but the ring can sit lower. That should give good contact.

Regarding the “filing down the lower part of the threading of the retaining ring” — may I request a photo or illustration of which part should be done? Sorry, I’m not really into modding and have not-so-good skills but would like to see if that can help the relatively low amps on the C8F 21700. Thank you.

HONDARIDER
HONDARIDER's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 44 min ago
Joined: 04/22/2018 - 11:45
Posts: 854
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
JasonWW wrote:
The replacement drivers do not have that red covering.

I just got 1 today and it still has the red stuff on it. I have a 2nd one on the way, maybe it will be different.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10895
Location: Houston Texas
HONDARIDER wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
The replacement drivers do not have that red covering.

I just got 1 today and it still has the red stuff on it. I have a 2nd one on the way, maybe it will be different.


I guess it varies. My replacement also had different color switch wires.
contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2051
Location: US

Both my hosts have different wire colors they must just use random wires. The red stuff is surely just to make the switch connection more durable.

HarleyQuin
HarleyQuin's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 03/29/2013 - 04:47
Posts: 580

d_t_a wrote:
Regarding the “filing down the lower part of the threading of the retaining ring” — may I request a photo or illustration of which part should be done? Sorry, I’m not really into modding and have not-so-good skills but would like to see if that can help the relatively low amps on the C8F 21700. Thank you.

See the green line.

If the drawing (from the first post of this thread) really resembles the C8F, then you can take away some of the threading. Just make sure you have
- enough threading on the retaining ring left to hold the ring under pressure and
- enough space on the lower side of the ring to fit on the bare copper on the driver.

.

.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2051
Location: US

Pretty sure he means this (Pic courtesy of ImA4Wheelr). This would be the “underside” of the ring, notice, no holes for pliers cause it’s upside down.

HarleyQuin
HarleyQuin's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 03/29/2013 - 04:47
Posts: 580

contactcr wrote:
Pretty sure he means this
No, pretty sure he doesn’t Big Smile

What I mean is filing the threading of the retaining ring.
Underside, yes, but from the outside, to remove some threading so you can turn the ring a bit more.

Your picture, contactcr, shows filing down the inside of the retaining ring. You do that when the ring collides with parts on the spring side of the driver. This wouldn’t be the case here with the C8F.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 2051
Location: US

Wouldn’t it be easier to just put a few solder blobs on the outside of the driver? I built mine with a 1.2mm thick 20mm FET+1 and had no issue but I guess YMMV. The ring is ridiculously thick so i’ll leave up the pic even though it isn’t what you meant.

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10895
Location: Houston Texas

I did file down a little of the lower threads, but it had no effect on where the ring stopped rotating. Very strange. I may have to look at it closer.

HarleyQuin
HarleyQuin's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 03/29/2013 - 04:47
Posts: 580

Unfortunately I don’t have the 21700-C8F yet, so I can’t check myself.

I did this kind of filing several times with brass-pills (before the pill-less design took over) and it worked well to get the pill in deeper.

Of course you can do a comfy-style solder addon to the driver. Preferably the component side, as solder does not hold pressure well, especially not with a shearing force like from a retaining ring.

Btw, comfychair used a drill press to ‘mill’ these solder blobs flat. That was a classic.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

Satan@103TFS
Offline
Last seen: 34 min 3 sec ago
Joined: 09/04/2017 - 12:51
Posts: 521

Hey Sofirn next let give us C8F 26650 and the single emitter throwy version either 21700/26650 .

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 2584
Location: US

Why do you want 26650 when 21700 has almost the same performance but more compact?

JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 49 sec ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10895
Location: Houston Texas

SKV89 wrote:
Why do you want 26650 when 21700 has almost the same performance but more compact?

You get longer run times, plus it feels better in the hand. The smaller 21700 is a bit awkward for me.

Pages