Thrunite TC20 - XHP70 - 3800lm

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arficus
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Thanks.

Rambo007
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Does anyone that owns the Olight R50 know if the Thrunite TC20 will fit in the R50 holster?

If I use unprotected IMR battery can I safely charge it with the Thrunite TC 20 Flashlight or do I need a separate charger ?

komeko
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Today I also became the owner of TC20 :).

The package went the entire 5 days. Flashlight very pleasant, shines wide and strong enough. I like it very much. With measurements, the turbo collection is 10A. Color NW and it came out to me 4959K. Despite the ideal temperature, some bile is. BLF Q8 is clean, despite the slightly lower temperature. Overall, it’s really good:

Of course, I checked the supplied Thrunite battery. I have a comparison for Lii-50. The original is slightly less turbo, but not the whole 10%. The problem is time, because in turbo it lasts 47 seconds and goes down rapidly. On the Lii-50, the turbo will heal for 150 seconds and then it slowly descends for another minute. The flashlight is already very hot 62 degrees Celsius.

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

DB Custom
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That’s not all that hot, try running it at 20A to the emitter for a while Wink

Y’all are killin me, how can I resist when y’all write all this great stuff about this light?

Dale

komeko
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Haha I also tried to resist and what? Waste of time Smile

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

DB Custom
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Has anyone gotten an emitter current read yet? What, about 3.6A to the emitter? Would like to find out what the driver is pushing up top…

Dale

robo819
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DB Custom wrote:
Has anyone gotten an emitter current read yet? What, about 3.6A to the emitter? Would like to find out what the driver is pushing up top…

4.92

Rest of the Chart in my review………………http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58555

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / *** ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

komeko
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So 6V diode, which gives us 30W, hmm 10W loss on the controller. 75% efficiency

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

SKV89
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komeko wrote:
Today I also became the owner of TC20 :).

Color NW and it came out to me 4959K. Despite the ideal temperature, some bile is. BLF Q8 is clean, despite the slightly lower temperature. Overall, it’s really good:

!http://www.strony.toya.net.pl/~komeko/FORA/02_TC20.jpg!

Thanks Komeko for the valuable info. I received my TC20 two weeks ago and the color temperature is slightly warmer than my zebralight sc5w II 4500k. It is much warmer than my 5000k flashlights and close to my 4000k flashlights, which I prefer. However, it is high above the BBL line so it has more green than my other flashlights. I’m curious where did you order yours from and when did you receive it? I don’t really know how to read your color chart but is yours above or below the BBL line? Is it more or the greenish or rosy side? If it’s below the BBL and more on the rosy side, I want to buy another one because it’s such a perfect practical flashlight and the only thing I currently don’t like about it is the B or C greenish tint they use instead of A or D rosy tint.

komeko
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It will be 3C near the main line and near 3B. For me, there is no green, there is more yellow which gives the impression of a warmer color than it really is. BLF Q8 has a lower temperature and it seems cooler because it is not so much yellow.

I ordered on the company website and the shipping was from Amazon.

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

SKV89
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darn I was hoping they revised the light color. I like warmer color temp but I don’t like yellow.

komeko
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This is probably the general charm of XHP70.2
The Acebeam EC50 III has practically the same lighting characteristics.
The center is white, the crown is yellow.

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

SKV89
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The XHP70.2 4000k and 5000k MT09R and Acebeam H15 5000k XHP70.2 and none of them had as much greenish yellow as the TC20. The 4000k 80CRI on the MT09R had much better tint. But don’t get me wrong, the TC20 tint is not ugly. I’ve seen much worst. It’s just not as ideal as I hoped for. I still really like the light because it can maintain the high lumens so much better than other lights making it my most practical portable light.

arficus
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>> I still really like the light because it can maintain the high lumens so much better than other lights making it my most practical portable light.

I’m size sensitive – the larger a light the less likely I am to use it. But of course I like large output, and decent runtime. D4 size is great, but runtimes seem absurd, just can’t justify buying it for such a short wow time. I’m guessing that until there’s another large leap in LED efficiency the TC20 is the current king of output/size with high output runtime that’s longer than a joke…

DB Custom
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With today’s offerings it can be difficult to choose the right light for balance, we now have choices that skew the parameters far and wide so coming back to a happy medium get’s complicated.

Dale

komeko
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The problem is that for most people only lumens are important. Manufacturers wanting to “meet the requirements” of these customers, install P2 diodes because they are the most efficient. Of course, the color suffers. There are XHP70.2 diodes which have 5000K and CRI 80 and 90. They are N2, M4 and M2 models, but for comparison their performance:
P2 CRI70 1830 lm for 85 degrees
N2 CRI80 1590 lm for 85 degrees
M4 CRI90 1480 lm for 85 degrees
M2 CRI90 1380 lm for 85 degrees

Knowing me, as soon as I get N2 I will make a change Smile

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

sp5it
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I look for M4, but hardly available to buy.
Mike

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komeko
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Link M4==

Link N2

Only probably not available from stock. In addition, I see 12V and in TC20 is from what I know 6V

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

sp5it
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That’s why I wrote “hardly available to buy” Smile

When you’re born you get a ticket to the freak show. When you’re born in America, you get a front-row seat.

 

sp5it
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I have a problem with turbo. All cleaned, it drops from circa 8A to 6A in 1 sec.
Any clues?
Mike

When you’re born you get a ticket to the freak show. When you’re born in America, you get a front-row seat.

 

DB Custom
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12V is merely a matter of which board it’s on and how that board is set up. The XHP-70.2 can be set up to run in 6V or 12V, it’s the same emitter either way.

Dale

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The chaufer in the study. Wink

Oh, sorry, what multimeter or clamp meter are you using to get that 8A reading? If a clamp meter, what gauge wire for your loop? What cell, and is it fully charged to 4.20V?

Dale

komeko
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DB Custom wrote:
12V is merely a matter of which board it’s on and how that board is set up. The XHP-70.2 can be set up to run in 6V or 12V, it’s the same emitter either way.

Great news, I will be hunting for a super hyper pure white LED Smile

Click on the name of the flashlight and you will see its spectrum of colors:        ANSI WHITE
BLF Q8 | Emisar D4 | Emisar D4S | Lumintop GTMini | Lumintop SDMini | Maglite Mini AAA | Nitecore TIP CRI | Noctigon Meteor M43 | Skilhunt H03Thrunite TC20 | Thrunite V6 | Utorch UT01 | Utorch UT02 |

DB Custom
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I like the Noctigon or MaxToch 6V MCPCB’s for their heavier trace in the 6V configuration. Since we like powering these emitters up, a heavier trace to carry that current just makes sense… SinkPAD also has a nice 6V version of the XHP-70/70.2 MCPCB. You should even be able to get similar directly from Simon at his Convoy store on Ali Express. Wink

Dale

sp5it
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Cell fresh from charger. I use DMM with thick cables I used to measure different 8A+ lights. Only this TC20 show me this amperage drop.
Other cell is on slow boat from China, maybe I will try with 18650 30Q cell I have.
Mike

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DB Custom
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Mike, I have yet to see a DMM that will accurately measure amperage over a few amps. The UNI-T clamp meters that were in a group buy a while back are good meters and the idea back then was to have as many of us on the same page as possible so current readings would be more standard across the board. I can’t say it’s a fault of your DMM that current drops as you’re describing but at the same time I don’t think I’d trust the reading from the DMM, even a Fluke can’t accurately measure with the stock leads and even if you use heavier gauge leads the sheer length of most attributes to incorrect numbers.

If the long heavy leads are adding to the resistance through the cell then the cell will drop voltage faster than it would tend to in the light, I’ve found even a 6” 12ga lead as a loop in use with a clamp meter causes a drop in lumens on the light box, so every little thing comes into play on these.

Keep in mind that on any cell the driver is boosting the available voltage to the emitter’s requirements, pulling 40-50% more from the cell than goes to the emitter. So a 10A pull to provide 5A to the emitter will definitely put a hit on a smaller cell, any cell for that matter.

Dale

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I’d like to stress that all lumens readings and all current readings, ALL of them… mine, robo’s, lexel’s, all of them, are the numbers we got at the time from the specific cell to the specific emitter through the specific driver on a specific day. It will change almost every time you take the readings as the cell loses life capacity, as the emitter deteriorates in it’s own life cycle, as heat robs efficiency and so on and so on.

If we got 100 members to order 100 consecutively made clamp meters and 100 consecutively made cells and 100 consecutive made lights and we all also ordered 100 consecutive made chargers… we’d have readings that varied a surprising amount when we tried to compare. Natural variance. It’s unavoidable.

So when we see numbers posted it’s not hard and fast concrete evidence of exactly what you should expect from yours, it’s an estimation of what to look for. Slight variance is expected, large variance can be an indicator there is a problem that needs to be rectified. Sometimes even large variance cannot easily be overcome. It’s the nature of the beast…

Dale

sp5it
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Dale, I measure mine triple nichia S2+ and shows 9A on the same DMM, no drop. TC20 drops after 1s after switching turbo on.
I can see and measure light intensity drop with or without DMM involved.
The question is: is it a torch or battery related?
Mike

When you’re born you get a ticket to the freak show. When you’re born in America, you get a front-row seat.

 

robo819
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sp5it wrote:
Dale, I measure mine triple nichia S2+ and shows 9A on the same DMM, no drop. TC20 drops after 1s after switching turbo on. I can see and measure light intensity drop with or without DMM involved. The question is: is it a torch or battery related? Mike

That sounds like what mine was doing after I cleaned the light contacts and cell ends the first time.

Go back and reclean the cell ends really good and also any points of contact such as the tube ends , brass ring inside the head , threads , springs , and rub the mess out of them. I was surprised to find what the second really good cleaning did on my light.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / *** ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

DB Custom
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I can almost guarantee that a clamp meter would show significantly higher current readings than your DMM. Seen it hundreds of times. I soldered 12ga leads into the V sockets of my DMM to make it impossible to use my DMM for current. lol I have 2 clamp meters now, they are both usually virtually spot on with each other on current readings.

Try like robo says and double check your cell contacts, you’ll probably find gains by doing so.

Dale

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