S2+ Tri LED mod, what parts to use

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lotec25
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S2+ Tri LED mod, what parts to use

So i want to do a Tri LED mod on a S2+, I have picked out the led, optic and spacer. I just want to get everyones opinion on the parts I picked out and if there is any ideas how to do it better.

Copper Triple Spacer for Convoy S2+
10507 Carclo Lens
CREE XP-L High-Intensity V3 1A LED

I like this optic better but it’s out of stock and not sure if it’s worth waiting for.
10509 Carclo Lens

DoubleA
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You’re trying to make it like a Jaxman ?

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

lotec25
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DoubleA wrote:
You’re trying to make it like a Jaxman ?

I am not sure what a Jaxman is, can you explain please?

Persechini
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You are almost set, the LEDs are the part you would have more options, but since you've got that figured, I'm sure you'll be happy with the result. The optics are not expensive, I'd go with the 507 and if you get the opportunity to get the 509 latter (either when it's back in stock or from other store) just get it and swap it to your liking. But the 507 optic has a very uniform beam already anyway.

 

 

You didn't mention the driver, so I'm guessing you are either going with the default convoy driver or something like the mtn electronics fet+1 driver. Convoy's biscotti = simpler interface, safer to lend the flashlight to someone else - FET+1 = higher turbo for WOW, more special modes (hidden, which is good) goes better with higher drain batteries (30Q will do fine, Sanyo GA also), gets very hot, might scare people if you lend it to them (happened to me)

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My collection:  Emisar: D4 / D1 ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / Tip ― Lumintop: Tool AAA ― Sofirn: SP10A / SF10 / SF12 / SF14 ― Trustfire: Z2

lotec25
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Persechini wrote:
You didn’t mention the driver, so I’m guessing you are either going with the default convoy driver or something like the mtn electronics fet+1 driver. Convoy’s biscotti = simpler interface, safer to lend the flashlight to someone else – FET+1 = higher turbo for WOW, more special modes (hidden, which is good) goes better with higher drain batteries (30Q will do fine, Sanyo GA also), gets very hot, might scare people if you lend it to them (happened to me)
To be honest I did not even think about a driver I was just going to use the stock S2+, but now that you mention it i’ll check out the driver you suggested.
JackJax
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I think the Jaxman E2L is being referred to. Starting at $30, triple LED tube light. I’ve got one. It works great. Max of around 900 lumen but it “only” draws around 2 amps on high which makes for good run times. Just three modes (low-medium-high) and has no memory so it always starts on low.

There’s also a Jaxman host available, comes with a built in shelf and doesn’t need a spacer although you would need to enlarge the whole to fit the wires through. Premade and host also available on MTN.

Edit: premade and host are sold on MTN but host is out of stock at the moment.

lotec25
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Persechini wrote:
You didn’t mention the driver, so I’m guessing you are either going with the default convoy driver or something like the mtn electronics fet+1 driver. Convoy’s biscotti = simpler interface, safer to lend the flashlight to someone else – FET+1 = higher turbo for WOW, more special modes (hidden, which is good) goes better with higher drain batteries (30Q will do fine, Sanyo GA also), gets very hot, might scare people if you lend it to them (happened to me)

Persechini, can you link me to these drivers on mtn electronics, or other location. having a hard time figuring out what drivers you are talking about. Thanks for the help.

Sirius9
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Spacer – OK
Optics – OK
Leds – hmmm, I wouldnt use HI version especially not with frosted lense, no point, I would just go with regular XPL leds, you have vider color selection also with non-HI leds.
Driver – stock!!! NOoooo, you need FET driver for sure, to make it bark like a beast Big Smile Stock driver = poodle, fet driver = pit bull Big Smile
Driver -> http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11...

 

Persechini
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The Jaxman E2L has the integrated shelf, so despite being more expensive, you wouldn't need to buy the spacer. It is also a bit harder to install the LEDs since you have a tighter space to work, but must be that harder.

 

The S2+ needs the spacer, but the pill is more versatile for future modifications/host swapping etc, so it's better is you intend to grow your collection os S2+s (like many here end up doing, it's kinda irresistible). You also have a lot more color options. If you are buying the flashlight as a host, than you'd need purchase the driver separately. If you already have a working S2+, the driver you already have can be a good starting point.

 

I don't know if shipping from mtn-electronics is free/cheap in the US, but if it is, you can pick as you go, if not, than buying the whole package at once becomes a better idea

 

PS: link for the FET driver I mentioned:
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=663&search=driver+17mm

The biscotti one you'd have if you bought the S2+ as a complete flashlight, I don't think MTN sells them, but for a triple there is no point in buying it if you are starting from a host, only if you already had it

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My collection:  Emisar: D4 / D1 ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / Tip ― Lumintop: Tool AAA ― Sofirn: SP10A / SF10 / SF12 / SF14 ― Trustfire: Z2

lotec25
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Sirius9 wrote:
Spacer – OK Optics – OK Leds – hmmm, I wouldnt use HI version especially not with frosted lense, no point, I would just go with regular XPL leds, you have vider color selection also with non-HI leds. Driver – stock!!! NOoooo, you need FET driver for sure, to make it bark like a beast Big Smile Stock driver = poodle, fet driver = pit bull Big Smile

What FET driver should I be looking at? still new to flashlight mods, so trying to get it all figured out in my head. Thanks

Sirius9
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lotec25 wrote:
What FET driver should I be looking at? still new to flashlight mods, so trying to get it all figured out in my head. Thanks

I believe this is the one you need: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11...
17mm for sure.
I use this one from BG http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11... and this one https://www.banggood.com/BLF-X6X5-Driver-ATTiny25V-Based-and-FET7135-Pow...
because cheaper to order from China than from states.

 

Persechini
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Sirius9 wrote:
Leds – hmmm, I wouldnt use HI version especially not with frosted lense, no point, I would just go with regular XPL leds, you have vider color selection also with non-HI leds.

Would domed LEDs make that much difference? It will be very floody anyway, I imagine the difference between the 507 and 509 will be greater than the difference between domed vs HI LEDs

In my Tree

My collection:  Emisar: D4 / D1 ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / Tip ― Lumintop: Tool AAA ― Sofirn: SP10A / SF10 / SF12 / SF14 ― Trustfire: Z2

lotec25
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this is the CONVOY S2+ I have. it’s just plain stock right now.

Sirius9
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Persechini wrote:
Sirius9 wrote:
Leds – hmmm, I wouldnt use HI version especially not with frosted lense, no point, I would just go with regular XPL leds, you have vider color selection also with non-HI leds.

Would domed LEDs make that much difference?


Probably not, I just tend to save HI leds for large reflectors Big Smile + wider tint selection for non-HI leds! One thing is sure, HI leds are safer to use because if something that shouldn’t twist ends up twisting HI leds have a higher probability of surviving undamaged Big Smile
There are also other options wort considering, like:
NOCTIGON 3XP MCPCB & Nichia NVSW219CT R8000 D260

 

lotec25
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when choosing the drivers what firmware does everyone choose? I keep wanting to pick the Guppy firmware just not sure if it’s worth it. I ordered a driver board for my M1 and just choose the stock firmware option. But the Guppy firmware has so many options so not sure if I should be choosing it.

Persechini
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I have mine with Bistro, but I have no experience with guppy

 

My triple has the 219C 4000k 90+ CRI, but Hank from intl-outdoor will sell the triple board with the same 5000k 90+ CRI 219C that goes in the D4 if you ask him, it's my favorite LED so far and the ones from my broken D4 are already inhabiting some of my other flashlights and I have a triple board in the mail to replace my 4000k version (or maybe even assemble another triple).

 

Output is a bit lower (D240 bin vs D260 I think) and both aren't as bright as the XP-L V3 bin, but at this point we are just adding confusion with a barrage of options, hehe. For higher output, the XP-L is the way to go

In my Tree

My collection:  Emisar: D4 / D1 ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / Tip ― Lumintop: Tool AAA ― Sofirn: SP10A / SF10 / SF12 / SF14 ― Trustfire: Z2

lotec25
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Persechini wrote:

I have mine with Bistro, but I have no experience with guppy


 

My triple has the 219C 4000k 90+ CRI, but Hank from intl-outdoor will sell the triple board with the same 5000k 90+ CRI 219C that goes in the D4 if you ask him

Can you give me a link to this? so I can see what you are talking about? I like all the feedback, it’s just me trying to find the stuff you guys are talking about Big Smile you are providing a lot of into but if you guys could include links it would help me along faster.

thanks

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I ordered items for my 2nd S2+ triple last week, once you’ve done it, you’ll be addicted Facepalm

I bought the triple xpl hi on copper dtp 4500K from kaidomain, a copper pill from kiriba, and a TA driver from Lexel, should become a hot-rod pocket rocket Cool

Thijsco19 wrote:

a regular symptom of flasholism Big Smile

“Flasholism is the most severe form of flashlight use and involves the inability to manage your flashlight use habits. It is also commonly referred to as flashlight use disorder. Flashlight use disorder is organized into three categories: mild, moderate and severe. Each category has various symptoms and can cause harmful side effects. If left untreated, any type of flashlight use can spiral out of control.”

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I was in the same boat with the build. I ordered the wrong copper spacer for mine, originally, and got the s6 one. Solution… Order an s6 host and the right spacer for the s2+, two lights now. These things multiply like rabbits.

I went with nichia 219c in the s6, as the heat sinking is a bit bigger with the larger copper piece. XPL-hi in the s2+. Used MTN fet drivers in both, with blf a6 FW.

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lotec25 wrote:
DoubleA wrote:
You’re trying to make it like a Jaxman ?

I am not sure what a Jaxman is, can you explain please?

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

JackJax
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nkresho wrote:
Used MTN fet drivers in both, with blf a6 FW.

I also go with BLF A6 when getting the MTN FET + 7135 driver. It’s easy to quickly switch through the modes and the strobe, battery check (<which guppy doesn’t include), bicycle flasher are hidden so you don’t end up with those unless you want them.

Persechini
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There is a thread with references to many flashlight firmwares:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54621

In my Tree

My collection:  Emisar: D4 / D1 ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / Tip ― Lumintop: Tool AAA ― Sofirn: SP10A / SF10 / SF12 / SF14 ― Trustfire: Z2

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This is going to be my go to driver from now on…love the options on the BLF A6 driver

https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-S1-BLF-A6-A17DD-L-FET-1-2_8-4_35v-7-4-...

lotec25
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
This is going to be my go to driver from now on…love the options on the BLF A6 driver

@WarHawk, Are you using this on all of your lights? what lights did you choose to use this one on. What options do you like the most about the BLF A6?

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I use the FET with the standard firmware modes with memory and low voltage protection.
Mode Levels: Moonlight – 2% – 5% – 20% – 50% – 100%

Have used guppy before, but I end up picking that mode group anyway.

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No, I have several running on Nanjg 105D 8x so about 2.8A output, most with older firmware…I really like the new A6 firmware (so many awesome modes) plus in the higher modes…it really drives the lights to their full potential…

Truthfully the MOSFET A6 driver is built less complicated than the 105D variants…even though the modes can be a bit daunting once you figure out the button sequence to modify modes and whatnot it’s a MUCH better option

I’m going to go ahead and order 2 of those above and upgrade my triple that I finally got running

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Sirius9 wrote:
lotec25 wrote:
What FET driver should I be looking at? still new to flashlight mods, so trying to get it all figured out in my head. Thanks
I believe this is the one you need: http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11... 17mm for sure. I use this one from BG http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11... and this one https://www.banggood.com/BLF-X6X5-Driver-ATTiny25V-Based-and-FET7135-Pow... because cheaper to order from China than from states.

Sorry to bother you, been reading this thread and already have the BLF-X6X5 driver. I’m a bit unsure too but want to make a triple, when buying the led’s on the board, do I need them in parallel or series for this driver?
Also does anyone know anything about those optics you get with the board/led’s from Kaidomain?

Sirius9
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G0OSE wrote:
Sorry to bother you, been reading this thread and already have the BLF-X6X5 driver. I’m a bit unsure too but want to make a triple, when buying the led’s on the board, do I need them in parallel or series for this driver?

For BLF Fet driver you need all leds to be in parallel
As per optics there are several types and the main difference is the angle of light coming out of them, clear one like in your image will give you lowest dissipation angle which means best throw, frosted lense will spread light more evenly but you will loose on throw

 

G0OSE
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Thank you for your reply Smile

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This is fascinating stuff. I just got an S2+ for this very reason. Following…

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

Sirius9
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Also, you will need to drill a hole in the center of your S2+ pill for wires Wink

 

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