D4 Titanium!!!

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hunter1
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Gunga wrote:
Is the button any more recessed than the aluminum version? Does it have tailcap lockout? I want a ti but am worried about accidental switching in the pocket. You can sell me yours if you want.

Hi..
Same button as on the alu version, (not more recessed).
The tail-cap do have a mechanical lockout.
.. no, you cant´t have mine.. Cool .

djozz
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Gunga wrote:
Is the button any more recessed than the aluminum version? Does it have tailcap lockout? I want a ti but am worried about accidental switching in the pocket. You can sell me yours if you want.

The tailcap lockout probably works because, as the aluminium version, the battery tube screws against the insulated tail-PCB, the batt-minus does not go via the metal of the tail.
Gunga
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It has lockout? Awesome. Ill need to pick one up then.

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Gunga wrote:
It has lockout? Awesome. Ill need to pick one up then.

I have one on order as well, but it was a bit of an impulse buy: it looks good but I will not likely use it much: I even find the aluminium D4 too large and heavy for pant pocket use (my E2L shorty is about the biggest light I can bear for pocket carry), as a bike light it is too expensive and bling (I tend to forget it and leave it on the handle bar, the bike is parked on the street at night), and for camping I have a headlamp and more throwy flashlights.
I can imagine that it will live in my weekend bag, but I guess it will end up on a shelf, showing off its glorious self, next to many many other flashlights Facepalm
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been EDC’ing my titanium D4 with 18650 tube for the last couple weeks. My impressions:

  • The light looks absolutely gorgeous. I picked the right-most color (I think version F), with blue and gold anodizing. It looks great, but at the same time not too flashy.
  • It’s significantly heavier than the aluminum version, but not too heavy for me to comfortably EDC.
  • The “hand-feel” is much better than the aluminum version. The square-cut knurling on the battery tube is excellent, and titanium is naturally grippier than anodized aluminum.
  • Still looks good after 2 weeks banging against my keys. On very close inspection the copper looks slightly worn, but the anodized titanium still looks absolutely pristine.
  • Excellent output and tint. Substantially brighter than my other D4s, even the one that I put XPL HI in.
  • Head gets hot incredibly fast…. much faster than my alunimum D4 on the same cell. As expected this leads to very rapid rampdown. From off at room temperature on a full VTC5A, the light starts at probably 4500 lumens of beautiful 4000K 5D tint, but within 45 seconds has ramped down to a max of maybe 50 lumens. This rampdown is much more rapid and severe than on the aluminum D4s.
  • While the head gets hot, the titanium battery tube remains cool. Unlike with the aluminum version, the only comfortable way to hold this light on turbo is to move your hand completely off the copper head.
  • Once the head gets hot, it takes a lot longer to cool to a comfortable temperature than the aluminum versions. In this version the heat is emitted from the copper head. This means much smaller surface area to work with than the aluminum version. Also dark anodized aluminum radiates better than my still-shiny copper-head. Copper also stores more heat, so there is more heat to dump.

Overall, I really like the titanium version of this light, but the incredibly rapid rampdown is a major drawback. Something like the new Zebralight SC600 IV with XHP50.2 that can sustain 2000 lumens for something like 5 minutes is probably a lot more practical.

TheAuditor
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I decided to run 18350’s in mine because of the heat issue. That copper head really does retain the heat, which is nice when its cold out Smile

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

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RMM (MtnElectronics) has the D4Ti in stock … placed an order yesterday and it has shipped today.

Ordered a D4Ti Gold/Purple (I’m having a Goldfinger moment, I apologize!) 219C with matching 18350 tube and an additional 10623 frosted optic to change out for a more diffusive beam.

My D4 Aluminum models (an XP-G2 2B and a 219C) are V1 firmware and I take pains to use them modestly ; Max is only for very short term use.

I don’t want heat to blister my fingers (or any other body part). It will be nice to have TK’s V2 firmware in the Ti model. I expect that I will need it and really appreciate the results for the finer thermal controls and other features which were added.

I use Samsung 30Q and Aspire 18350 cells with the two D4’s I have presently and will use the same cells with this Ti model.

g_damian
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Equipment for firmware refresh is a few bucks only, you could try to upgrade them Smile

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I got my Emisar D4 ti in, and I love it.

Also because of the 5000K 90CRI 219C which is new to me and has a great neutral tint and works very well with the optic, the new board with rotated pads help a lot too.

The 18350 tube is not finished as well as the rest of the light, rough grey-ish instead of shiny silver, and also leaves a tiny gap when screwed in the head, but I can’t be bothered, I decided against shelf-queen, this light is going into the EDC rotation. Smile

Gunga
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Darn it. I held out as long as I could. Your post put me over. Purchased!

djozz
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I’m sorry that I did that to you Gunga, but with a bit of luck you experience what happened to me: what I expected is exactly what I got, and still it took me by surprise how nice it is. Smile

Gunga
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Finally got it after 5 weeks! Geez, this thing is heavy! If I didn’t know any better I would have thought it was stainless steel or something.

Overall nice though. Just more of a tank than expected.

Not super practical but I like it. I wanted the ti for the bling, the body knurling, and the bare metal.

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already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

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Gunga wrote:
Finally got it after 5 weeks! Geez, this thing is heavy! If I didn’t know any better I would have thought it was stainless steel or something.

Overall nice though. Just more of a tank than expected.

Not super practical but I like it. I wanted the ti for the bling, the body knurling, and the bare metal.

About matches my opinion. Gorgeous light. Durable. SUPER-heavy. If I have it in a pocket I really feel it bouncing against my thigh. Not comfortable at all due to the weight.

Too bad the threads aren’t compatible with the aluminum version. I’d have loved to use the titanium tube with an aluminum head for less weight.

Also, I wish they came out with an aluminum tube with the square body knurling. Having knurling on the body is great, but its only available on the titanium version.

chinooker
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Danm! I just got the raw, with NW – XP-L HI V2 3A, 5000K, and titanium 18350 tube for what the base model went for before ($80)
She surely can’t blame me…right?

eas
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She can’t blame you if she doesn’t find out. Not that I’d advocate lying about it. But really, there are so many things to worry about, $21 doesn’t really rate, does it?

.

chinooker
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actually I saw the sale on another thread and jumped on it. Cash

(fyi the 25% off applies to the accessories also)

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chinooker wrote:
actually I saw the sale on another thread and jumped on it. Cash

(fyi the 25% off applies to the accessories also)

Is this sale still going on?
shirnask
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Yes, sale is still on. I broke down and bought one Facepalm

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Ordered one from Hank on 5/16 and it arrived today. Fast!

funkychateau
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JakeDjanitor wrote:
I personally want one, I want the natural titanium one. But the cost is out of my range. I don’t mind losing a couple hundred lumens to have the titanium. But the increase in cost is just to substantial… I can buy an armytek or other larger name brand that is built to swim with and handle the recoil on a .12 gauge for this price.

Jake,

I just bought the natural titanium D4 with the accessory 18350 tube and nichia emitters. It was an impulse buy, and I’ve decided I wanted the XPL Hi emitters instead. So I’m re-ordering the light in that emitter configuration, and I will be selling this one at a discount as soon as I return home and take some pictures (I’m currently on travel). It has never been carried, never dropped, and probably has only about 10 or 20 minutes of total play time on it. I’m still on the first battery charge.

I don’t know whether the Ti version loses “a couple hundred lumens” over the standard version, but I can say that this thing seems to put out three or four times as much light as my Zebralight SC600, which was until now the brightest I owned. The hot spot intensity seems similar, but the D4 is more like a hot “zone”, much much larger.

This is also the most attractive and best-machined flashlight I have ever owned. It’s like a piece of jewelry. I know I’ll wind up carrying the D4 instead of my SC600, because it’s smaller yet more powerful, but probably not until I find a protective pouch to fit it.

best regards,

Martin

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Nav88 wrote:
You can gain a rudimentary understanding of how natural convection and radiation contribute to overall heat transfer by looking at the well-understood model for a horizontal cylinder suspended in a fluid. This doesn’t account for the addition of conduction into the hand and the lost surface area for convection, nor for any type of forced convection (e.g. wind) but it’s a reasonable starting point.

Here is a calculator that will determine the total heat transfer, split between natural convection and radiation, for such a case: https://www.thermal-wizard.com/tmwiz/default.htm

I entered the approximate dimensions of the D4 in meters (.094 L x .024 D) and the approximate emissivity for anodized aluminum (0.8 – quite good!). At an ambient temperature of 20°C and cylinder surface temperature of 50°C (about as hot as you can hold continuously), the D4 can only get rid of about 2.5W. That’s 1.4W by convection and 1.1W by radiation.

At an emissivity of 0.2, which seems to be closer to the value for machined titanium, the total heat transfer drops to only 1.7W, with the same 1.4W from convection and only 0.3W from radiation.

It’s worth pointing out that these rates of heat transfer are at steady-state when the heat generation is equal to the heat dissipation and temperatures are constant throughout the system. It’s obvious that the D4, even with the good emissivity of anodized aluminum, just does not have the surface area to dissipate anywhere near the amount of heat it generates at full power. In theory, thermal regulation should settle on a power level that results in 2.5W of heat generation in the aluminum D4 and 1.4W in the titanium.

More practical questions like how long a light can run before stepping down require more complicated models that look at how temperatures change over time on their way to steady-state, and do factor in the thermal conductivity of the material (notice how that doesn’t matter in a steady-state analysis).

Nav, when I look closely at my light shining on an even surface, I think I can detect the first stepdown at about 15 seconds of operation. The change is small, though. I never tried for more stepdown because the head was as hot as I wanted it to get. I’m fine with that factory setting, as I doubt I’d ever run full power longer than 5 or 10 seconds anyway.

best regards,

Martin

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Being a Titanium fanatic and a bit of a copper freak, I had to get one of these. And of course, I had to mod it. I have Anduril in it with 20ga leads, bypassed driver spring and a copper button in place of the tail spring. Also swapped in the new Samsung LH351D emitters at 5000K 80 CRI. These fit under the optic quite nicely. Also adapted the Noctigon quad board so it could be screwed down, mine wasn’t and had no screws at all but that is remedied now. Wink

I put the knurled 18650 Ti tube on my black D1s, will keep the 18350 short tube on this D4Ti. On a dark purple Efest 18350 it makes a whopping 4067 lumens and the color is splendid! Floody wall of gorgeous light, a nice match for the Ti/Cu beauty.

With the 18650 tube on the D4Ti and a Sony VTC5A in the tube it is capable of 5500+ lumens. It is also capable of burning the fingers in a matter of seconds. Wink Needless to say, it will stay in short tube configuration.

I like the fact that the Ti tube blankets the Li-ion cell, protecting it from excessive heat. The aluminum version allows the cell to get way too hot for my comfort. (My aluminum D4 is green, shorty, with XP-E2 green emitters. Yeah, it makes serious heat!)

Nice work Hank, love it! Love

Edit: Oh, by the way, the parts on my green aluminum D4 and D4Ti interchange with zero issues.

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DB Custom wrote:
Being a Titanium fanatic and a bit of a copper freak, I had to get one of these. And of course, I had to mod it. I have Anduril in it with 20ga leads, bypassed driver spring and a copper button in place of the tail spring. Also swapped in the new Samsung LH351D emitters at 5000K 80 CRI. These fit under the optic quite nicely. Also adapted the Noctigon quad board so it could be screwed down, mine wasn’t and had no screws at all but that is remedied now. Wink

I put the knurled 18650 Ti tube on my black D1s, will keep the 18350 short tube on this D4Ti. On a dark purple Efest 18350 it makes a whopping 4067 lumens and the color is splendid! Floody wall of gorgeous light, a nice match for the Ti/Cu beauty.

With the 18650 tube on the D4Ti and a Sony VTC5A in the tube it is capable of 5500+ lumens. It is also capable of burning the fingers in a matter of seconds. Wink Needless to say, it will stay in short tube configuration.

I like the fact that the Ti tube blankets the Li-ion cell, protecting it from excessive heat. The aluminum version allows the cell to get way too hot for my comfort. (My aluminum D4 is green, shorty, with XP-E2 green emitters. Yeah, it makes serious heat!)

Nice work Hank, love it! Love

Edit: Oh, by the way, the parts on my green aluminum D4 and D4Ti interchange with zero issues.

Dale,

I’m curious – since you have obviously taken this flashlight apart many times, can you confirm that it actually does have a glass lens over the plastic focusing optic? Reviews and specs all seem to say it does, but when I looked at the one I just bought I couldn’t tell. Sort of looked like the bare plastic surface.

best regards,

Martin

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DB Custom wrote:
Being a Titanium fanatic and a bit of a copper freak, I had to get one of these. And of course, I had to mod it. I have Anduril in it with 20ga leads, bypassed driver spring and a copper button in place of the tail spring. Also swapped in the new Samsung LH351D emitters at 5000K 80 CRI. These fit under the optic quite nicely. Also adapted the Noctigon quad board so it could be screwed down, mine wasn’t and had no screws at all but that is remedied now. Wink

I put the knurled 18650 Ti tube on my black D1s, will keep the 18350 short tube on this D4Ti. On a dark purple Efest 18350 it makes a whopping 4067 lumens and the color is splendid! Floody wall of gorgeous light, a nice match for the Ti/Cu beauty.

With the 18650 tube on the D4Ti and a Sony VTC5A in the tube it is capable of 5500+ lumens. It is also capable of burning the fingers in a matter of seconds. Wink Needless to say, it will stay in short tube configuration.

I like the fact that the Ti tube blankets the Li-ion cell, protecting it from excessive heat. The aluminum version allows the cell to get way too hot for my comfort. (My aluminum D4 is green, shorty, with XP-E2 green emitters. Yeah, it makes serious heat!)

Nice work Hank, love it! Love

Edit: Oh, by the way, the parts on my green aluminum D4 and D4Ti interchange with zero issues.

The three non Ti D4 that I have come with screwed on noctigon mcpcb. I’m surprised the Ti version did not come screwed down. 5500+ lumens in that little thing is insane.

DB Custom
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AR coated glass lens, yes.

There were threaded screw holes in my D4Ti, just no screws. When I tried to put a pair of screws in it they shorted the MCPCB on the negative trace and the light was constant on. I used a diamond dremel tool in a small table top drill press to cut the trace away at the screw holes and now it works fine with it screwed down. Wink

It must have been intended that the screws were left out of mine as the optic had all 4 legs intact. I snipped off two legs right at the point they would sit on the screws and all is well. Wink

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Firelight2 wrote:

Overall, I really like the titanium version of this light, but the incredibly rapid rampdown is a major drawback. Something like the new Zebralight SC600 IV with XHP50.2 that can sustain 2000 lumens for something like 5 minutes is probably a lot more practical.

I was about to buy the SC600 IV hearing people say that the thing can maintain turbo for many minutes. However, from all of the lumen graphs I’ve seen, the light dips within a minute or maybe 2 max just like any other lights. Can you show me a test that shows the Zebralight can last 5 minutes. If so, I will buy one as I need an 18650 work EDC that can maintain 2000 lumens for 3+ minutes.

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SKV89, a triple SST-40 will maintain 2000+ lumens easily for several minutes but I don’t know about the 18650 format. Possibly something like a triple SST-40 ×6? I have an SupFire M6 and it does it easily, heat not a problem. It’s a decently small light but still not an EDC probably. Maybe a triple SST-40 built on a single 26650 frame format?

The new D4s might interest you, it’s a single 26650 with quad emitters, it might be capable and is not a very big light at all… brand new from Emisar and probably not released just yet but should be soon if it’s not already.

The soon to be available 21700 tube Sofirn C8F should also work well set up this way. I think XP-L2’s or the Samsung LH351D should make the lumens you’re after. (I mean, they’ll be coasting at 2000 lumens so they’ll last the time frame you specced. Wink )

Edit: My D4Ti with Samsung LH351D emitters in shorty form makes right at 2000 lumens at the ramp ceiling as set by default in Anduril… but by a little over 1 1/2 minutes it’s pretty hot. The new larger D4s should be able to take it so I’d recommend waiting for this as it should really work well for you (with Anduril flashed and the ability to set ceiling levels and/or use stepped levels)

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SKV89 wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:

Overall, I really like the titanium version of this light, but the incredibly rapid rampdown is a major drawback. Something like the new Zebralight SC600 IV with XHP50.2 that can sustain 2000 lumens for something like 5 minutes is probably a lot more practical.

I was about to buy the SC600 IV hearing people say that the thing can maintain turbo for many minutes. However, from all of the lumen graphs I’ve seen, the light dips within a minute or maybe 2 max just like any other lights. Can you show me a test that shows the Zebralight can last 5 minutes. If so, I will buy one as I need an 18650 work EDC that can maintain 2000 lumens for 3+ minutes.

Actually I think those graphs are more accurate than my unscientific recollections.

The SC600 IV’s turbo output does dip, just not nearly as fast or as far as a D4.

My D4 Titanium on Turbo with a fresh Sony VTC5A inside sees its output dip from a peak of 4300 lumens to maybe 30 lumens in less than a minute. In the same period of time the SC600 IV is still hand-holdable and still seems to be producing a very respectable and useful turbo output.

If I hold a D4 in one hand and SC600 IV in the other and turn both on in turbo, the SC600 IV will be brighter by around 15 or 20 seconds in.

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