The new Jaxman E3 flashlight comes in the new year

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DoubleA
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Lightbringer wrote:
Anything in 2.xV, immediately cut off. Too high for alkaleak/Ni, and way way too low for Li.

Using a 2*1/2 AA NiCd is well within the realm of possibility. SillySilly

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

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Lightbringer wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
May I ask you: what will be the diameter of the driver? 15mm, 17mm?

Probably 14mm. 15mm is already wider than the cell, and you still need a wall+ledge to hold it.

Lightbringer wrote:
jaxman wrote:
hi the driver PCB size is 17mm, and no glued, becase this model need not fixed the MCPCB.

For an AA light? Wow, I’m impressed! Big Smile

Unless you have a TARDIS battery-tube. Evil

There was the answer Big Smile
With a 17mm driver…it will be nice for some mods Evil

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Lightbringer
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MascaratumB wrote:
There was the answer Big Smile

With a 17mm driver…it will be nice for some mods Evil

Yeh, I’m (pleasantly) surprised! Must be a nice thick-walled design.

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SKV89
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So any idea when will the new Jaxman E3 be released?

Suggestion for the UI: Sofirn SF36W UI is the best rear clicky flashlight UI I have ever seen.

“click” to turn on or turn off; half “click” to cycle LL(10Lm)→Low(70 Lm)→Medium(353Lm)→High(1000Lm).The flashlight is set with Modes memory function within 2 seconds excluding Strobe.

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Hi Jaxman!!

Any new on this light with the 3 mode driver?
Thank you Thumbs Up

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MascaratumB
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hatman wrote:
I ordered the version of the Jaxman E3 high CRI, warm Nichia 219c that was in stock as of this date.

hatman, have you received our flashlight already?
If so, is there any possibility to measure the head diameter and height (from the shelf to the threads) internally, please?
Thank you in advance!! Thumbs Up

Jaded wrote:
Another suggestion to you Jaxman is to make the host of the new Jaxman E3 available for sale. For this, I believe I speak on behalf of a number of people here who are willing to purchase and try the E3 host for personal use.

As Jaded said, and I agree, I am very interested in this host but I would need to get some measures first! I don’t mind getting the whole light and then use what I need, but it would be nice to get the host as a “separate” sell Wink

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djozz
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…unless the ledboard is glued with tons of gooey, like the E2L’s, that case a host version would be nice!

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djozz wrote:
…unless the ledboard is glued with tons of gooey, like the E2L’s, that case a host version would be nice!

It will not be, according to jaxman Evil

jaxman wrote:
hi the driver PCB size is 17mm, and no glued, becase this model need not fixed the MCPCB.

BTW, I guess the version being sold currently is not the “final” version as the driver is only 2 modes (according to the product description) and they intend to sell it 3 modes.

This seems a pretty nice host indeed, robust and well made Wink

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S ///

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SKV89
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For AA EDC light, I think it is important to have warm white 4000k hi CRI and moonlight mode less than 0.5 lumens. Don’t want to wake up your kids or wife/husband when you turn it on in the middle of the night.

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I think many chinese manufacturers aren’t too fund of moonlight modes. I can understand why, though. In my personal experience moonlight modes can be a bit alienating in the normal rotation for most users because they are so low.

I wouldn’t mind if they don’t include a moonlight mode for a simpler operation, but they should at least have them well spaced out. If they want only three modes something like 10 => 40 => ~200 lumen would be nice, I guess.

The Thrunite T10 is a similar light and has around 0.3 => 10 => 250 lumen, but the jump from 10 to >200 lumen is a bit too high in my opinion. I think the T10’s settings are good for enthusiasts who know what to expect from a light with those modes, but without some setting between 10 and >200 lumen you probably won’t satisfy most needs. Something around ~50 lumen is good enough for a quick walk around the house or dimly lit streets.

With only three modes some compromises have to be made, but I think if in doubt I’d optimize for muggle usage with a light like this. See the popularity of the BLF 348. One of the most popular lights despite its simple operation. I think there’s definitely some demand for a high CRI light with a simple UI.

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It looks like Jaxman got some Kodak lanyard leftovers, i have received the same Cash

Edited by: sb56637

sovereignknight
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This looks like a nice light but I wish it offered more light output like the Manner E11,UT-01 and EDC05. I would have jumped on this if that was the case.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_3:16 

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x6 Sk68 modded 3 Nichia 319AT, 3 Cree XP-G3 - x1 Solorforce P60 drop in custom XM-L2 U4 1C, Qlight Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A Driver - x2 Lumintop EDC05 CW - x2 Jaxman E2L tripple XP-G2 S4 
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1C3
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Today I received an E3 that I bought for my grandmother (219C 4000K), and took the opportunity to disassemble it a bit and take a look at the insides. Here are my findings:
- the build quality is as good as I’ve come to expect from jaxman
- the driver is 17mm and it looks like any 17mm driver would work in it without issues
- the switch and its washer are a bit smaller than my X6’s, but anything that fits in an X6 or an S41 tailcap can probably be made to fit with a little sanding
- tailcap button is ~12mm
- the ledboard is 16mm and it’s glued in Facepalm

I’m really disappointed by the glue, if a host version was made I feel this would be a good candidate for a 14500 build with a 3A LD-A4 and an ILC-0, but I’m sure my grandma will like it as it is Big Smile

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1C3 wrote:
Today I received an E3 that I bought for my grandmother (219C 4000K), and took the opportunity to disassemble it a bit and take a look at the insides. Here are my findings:
- the build quality is as good as I’ve come to expect from jaxman
- the driver is 17mm and it looks like any 17mm driver would work in it without issues
- the switch and its washer are a bit smaller than my X6’s, but anything that fits in an X6 or an S41 tailcap can probably be made to fit with a little sanding
- tailcap button is ~12mm
- the ledboard is 16mm and it’s glued in Facepalm

I’m really disappointed by the glue, if a host version was made I feel this would be a good candidate for a 14500 build with a 3A LD-A4 and an ILC-0, but I’m sure my grandma will like it as it is Big Smile

Oh boy Facepalm Didn’t expected it to be glued…
But, how hard will it be to remove that?

Did you get the 3 mode driver or just 2?

Thanks for showing us this Wink And I hope your grandma likes it as well Smile

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S ///

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2 modes, high->low

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1C3 wrote:
2 modes, high->low

Thank you Thumbs Up

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S ///

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Evgeniy
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1C3 wrote:
2 modes, high->low

It’s poor. 8(
moonlight is nice option.

Flashlights : custom (Jaxman E2L with led4power LD-4 drivers and 3xOsram CQAR.CC), custom Skillhunt H03 with Osram 3К/4К, Zebralight {H600fc IV, Sc600fc IV, H600fc III}, Jaxman E2(N219b), Convoy UV.
Previous: Zebralight {H501, H600W, H600W II, H602W}, NiteCore TIPCRI, A A01, Fenix L2D CE/CEQ5.

MascaratumB
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1C3 wrote:
2 modes, high->low

1C3, I hope my request is not an abuse, but is there any possibility for you to make some measurements of this flashlight, please?
Namely:
- length
- outside diameter
- inside diameter in the head (where the reflector/MCPCB sits)

If you could do this and tell us the numbers I would appreciate Blushing
Thank you in advance Wink

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S ///

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1C3
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lenght:93mm
diameter:22mm

here is a pic with a S2+ for scale

I don’t have an accurate way to measure the inside of the head but it looks to me like the mcpcb space is around 18mm and the rest of the inside is 19mm wide, here is a pic to get an idea:

MascaratumB
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1C3 wrote:
lenght:93mm
diameter:22mm

here is a pic with a S2+ for scale

I don’t have an accurate way to measure the inside of the head but it looks to me like the mcpcb space is around 18mm and the rest of the inside is 19mm wide, here is a pic to get an idea:

Thanks so much 1C3! That’s what I needed Wink
This really seems a prettty strong light! I’ll probably get one and mod the driver Wink

Thank you once again Cool

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S ///

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Persechini
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2 modes? I was about to order one, I had inquired Jaxman and he answered that it had 3 modes

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

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I’m not buying this product if the driver is glued or if the threads are glued. Manufacturers should learn to listen to what the consumers want.

Also, I would like to repeat my suggestion to make the host available for sale. How hard can this be?

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Jaded wrote:
I’m not buying this product if the driver is glued or if the threads are glued. Manufacturers should learn to listen to what the consumers want.

Also, I would like to repeat my suggestion to make the host available for sale. How hard can this be?

Hum, I don’t know if it is possible to ask Jaxman to not glue the things. When ordering , maybe we can try that!
I also wanted this available as a host, only, but if that is not possible, I’ll get the full light, unglue it and arrange it as I want!

Despite we have to look to manufacturers point of view – specially these that are not “major players” – I agree with you in some things Thumbs Up

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S ///

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I asked Jaxman and they said, that in the new version of E3 (with three modes) MCPCB would not be glued.

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the test is still continued…

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^ That is an extreme low current for a moon mode on NiMh battery whatever the light output is, considering that the circuitry and MCU consume some power too. I have not seen a flashlight that boosts from a NiMh that gets the current draw so low. Btw, what is the light output at moon mode?

I think it is very good of you to pay attention to the current draw in moon mode. Thumbs Up

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djozz wrote:
^ That is an extreme low current for a moon mode on NiMh battery whatever the light output is, considering that the circuitry and MCU consume some power too. I have not seen a flashlight that boosts from a NiMh that gets the current draw so low. Btw, what is the light output at moon mode?

I think it is very good of you to pay attention to the current draw in moon mode. Thumbs Up

Djozz and Jaxman, please indulge my ignorance, but is this a “not-so-good” thing?
Sorry but I don’t master these “drain” and “consumption” language, and I don’t know how is it good or bad in terms of efficency/runtime/max and min outputs Facepalm

Also, does this have to do with the LED as well?
Thanks in advance!

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S ///

 Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7   TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

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Looks very nice Jaxman! I like it! Will have to add this one to my growing collection of well made Jaxman lights.

For me, starting with the lowest mode and stepping up to the highest is a requirement due to my poor memory. I tend to blind myself if they come on in high. Blushing

The High CRI Nichia 219C is also an appealing emitter choice to me, hope that’s available when it’s time to order.

Already having the UV tube light (U1) and the triple (E2L), along with the M8 and Z1 and the X1 as well as the M2, this small light will have it’s own distinct place in my line-up. Thank you for thinking of this. I don’t normally use NiMH in these small lights but in this case I might have to make an exception and keep it low for the glow. Wink Who knows though, I could get some crazy idea to shove 2 14250’s in the tube with an XHP-50.2…. maybe hosts really are needed? Big Smile

Edit: Couldn’t resist, just ordered one with the Nichia 5700K 219B. I know, I know…. Wink

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MascaratumB wrote:
djozz wrote:
^ That is an extreme low current for a moon mode on NiMh battery whatever the light output is, considering that the circuitry and MCU consume some power too. I have not seen a flashlight that boosts from a NiMh that gets the current draw so low. Btw, what is the light output at moon mode?

I think it is very good of you to pay attention to the current draw in moon mode. Thumbs Up

Djozz and Jaxman, please indulge my ignorance, but is this a “not-so-good” thing?
Sorry but I don’t master these “drain” and “consumption” language, and I don’t know how is it good or bad in terms of efficency/runtime/max and min outputs Facepalm

Also, does this have to do with the LED as well?
Thanks in advance!


This is a “good“thing.

In very low output/current levels, the power draw of the circuitry adds significant to what just the led draws. example, the BLF-A6 driver in lowest moon mode may have 2mA through the led but the MCU/voltage divider or whatever, adds another 2.5mA (these are numbers that I think I remember). And the BLF-A6 driver is pretty good at this. I know that led4power pays extra attention to the power draw of the circuitry in his drivers to maximise runtime in moon mode, it is a bit lower even than the BLF-A6. This may be done by designing the hardware right, but it certainly can also be achieved by software tweaking, I know that TomE has done a lot for the Q8 driver to keep the MCU power draw as low as possible in lowest setting (something with putting the MCU to sleep). But other drivers may be pretty wasteful which reduces the runtime in moon mode drastically.
If the driver is a boost driver, the current that the circuitry uses (and does not go through the led) may be a bit higher because of boost losses. Mind that the 8mA that Jaxman measures is at 1.2V, so after boosting there is just maybe 2.5mA leftover to divide between circuitry and led. So if the led lights up at all, the power draw of the circuitry is lower than that.

MascaratumB
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djozz wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
djozz wrote:
^ That is an extreme low current for a moon mode on NiMh battery whatever the light output is, considering that the circuitry and MCU consume some power too. I have not seen a flashlight that boosts from a NiMh that gets the current draw so low. Btw, what is the light output at moon mode?

I think it is very good of you to pay attention to the current draw in moon mode. Thumbs Up

Djozz and Jaxman, please indulge my ignorance, but is this a “not-so-good” thing?
Sorry but I don’t master these “drain” and “consumption” language, and I don’t know how is it good or bad in terms of efficency/runtime/max and min outputs Facepalm

Also, does this have to do with the LED as well?
Thanks in advance!


This is a “good“thing.

In very low output/current levels, the power draw of the circuitry adds significant to what just the led draws. example, the BLF-A6 driver in lowest moon mode may have 2mA through the led but the MCU/voltage divider or whatever, adds another 2.5mA (these are numbers that I think I remember). And the BLF-A6 driver is pretty good at this. I know that led4power pays extra attention to the power draw of the circuitry in his drivers to maximise runtime in moon mode, it is a bit lower even than the BLF-A6. This may be done by designing the hardware right, but it certainly can also be achieved by software tweaking, I know that TomE has done a lot for the Q8 driver to keep the MCU power draw as low as possible in lowest setting (something with putting the MCU to sleep). But other drivers may be pretty wasteful which reduces the runtime in moon mode drastically.
If the driver is a boost driver, the current that the circuitry uses (and does not go through the led) may be a bit higher because of boost losses. Mind that the 8mA that Jaxman measures is at 1.2V, so after boosting there is just maybe 2.5mA leftover to divide between circuitry and led. So if the led lights up at all, the power draw of the circuitry is lower than that.

OHHH, ok, first I got it all “wrong”! Now I understand the “boring” part, cause it will draw slowly on the lowest level!
Thank you so much djozz for taking the time to write and explain it Wink

Hum, I will definitely get one of these Smile
Thanks again Smile

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