I'm trying to figure out the problems with my Balder SE-1
This light will work fine until I give it a hard tap or two. It will go off and I'll keep tapping it until it comes back on. Also, if it's working and I take off the head or tail cap and reassemble it then it will most likely not work anymore. It seems like there's a connection issue like the battery isn't getting good contact. But that's just a guess from a guy relatively inexperienced at troubleshooting and fixing such electronics. What I don't understand is the battery is clearly making good contact with the tail switch spring and there's adequate pressure against the driver. Do you suppose it's the positive end not making good enough contact with the driver board?
Looks to me like your soldering of the driver to the pill is broken. The driver doesn't appear to be seated properly either. Reseat and resolder it. Happened to one of my lights after a fall from the nightstand to the floor.
I'm using Flames. I've tried a few different batteries all with the same result.
The emitter board isn't secured tightly although the solder points seem to be solid. Would that have any affect? I'm wiggling it around and nothing is coming loose around the wires.
The driver seems to be glued? Do I need to bridge the outer metal part with the pill?
Like JohnnyMac said it's a solder joint no doubt. Check the emitter connections turn it on without the reflector on and push on the solder joints on the emitter sometimes those pop off and the pressure of the reflector is the only thing keeping the connection. If you are lucky it's one of those because they require the least amount of disassembly to get to to fix.
That's what I thought and that's what I was doing but they seem solid enough. I can pry the emitter board up a little and none of the wires come loose.
Actually, after I cleaned the threads really good and reassembled the light I can't get it to work at all anymore. This is really bugging me. I know it's only a $20 light and I have a replacement coming but it has become a challenge to get it working properly. It just has to be a solder connection somewhere since it would flicker or come on and off when tapping it fairly hard.
First make sure it's not just the switch. Bridging the tube to the negative end of the battery lets you know that it's not a bad switch (which WILL drive you nuts, especially if it's flakey. Mine didn't like voltages above 4v: ie. fully charged).
If it's not the switch, threads, or bad solder grounding the driver to the pill... it _might_ be a loose smd component on the driver board itself.
