Update! Heatsink/spacer from coins? How to make a spacer for s2+?(updated with pictures!)

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Jerommel
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hannesremo wrote:

The coin is 10cent euro “nordic gold mix” which is 89% copper, 5% aluminium, 5% zink and 1% thin, so should be pretty good right?

Sounds good. Thumbs Up

But i would suggest to get some 20 × 20 mm copper shims.
You can find them cheap on Ebay and AliExpress and they’re available in 1 mm and 1.5 mm thickness.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

hannesremo
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I used the gold colored 10cent ones, 89% copper,5% aluminum,5%zink,1%tin

Jerommel
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hannesremo wrote:

I used the gold colored 10cent ones, 89% copper,5% aluminum,5%zink,1%tin


I assumed they were brass, didn’t know they had so much copper in them.
Good to know. Thumbs Up

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

hannesremo
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Yeah I thought so too, but found a page about euro coins and they use a nordic gold named mix! Seems good to me don't know! How would I know if the cooling is good or not other than it gets hot? Measure temp somehow?

hannesremo
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Yeah, wanted it done now, since my leds came in today, so decided to make my own, and it's hard to find these spacers in europe and kaidomain don't sell any and they're expensive too, more fun to make your own rather than buying imo! Question is how good will it cool?

FPV
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I checked temp with an infrared thermometer, coins vs copper spacer (from kiruba). there was almost no difference with a FET driven S2+ (XML2 U4). Could also not feel a difference while the light was in my hand (subjective).
I have not done the test with a triple or quad setup yet, but can do it once I build them.

hannesremo
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I already made the spacers, why would I need the copper shims,to make a spacer?

I got some 2mm copper sheet aswell at home but need to buy a 20mm hole saw! Maybe stacking 2mm copper plates would be best? I'm gonna try the coins tho will see how it works!

FPV
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I soldered my mcpcb straight onto the coin spacer, therefore didn’t need any copper shims. If you sand everything down you wouldn’t need them, I guess?

hannesremo
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yeah didn't sand between them only on pill side and mcpcb side to make it smooth, might have to take them apart and sand and resolder?

hannesremo
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I'm gonna use thermal paste between spacer and mcpcb, but couldn't get the spacer to stick to the pill itself, so have to use thermal paste there too! I see most people run the spacer loose anyways with thermal paste!

FPV
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If you have sanded enough between pill/spacer and between spacer/MCPCB you’d only need a bit of thermal paste and you are good to go.

It took me 2 attempts when I soldered the spacer to the pill, forgot the flux initially. Then I soldered the MCPCB onto the spacer and forgot the LED was still on there or thought it would stay. it detached and fell into the carpet. lol
Anyway, it is all soldered together and it rocks. No thermal paste at all, which is perfect.

hannesremo
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ok, I have some 2mm copperbplate aswell that I could hole drill out and stack, but I guess with 2mm each it would need even more heat than the coins to stick? Or do you think my coins will be ok?

hannesremo
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So like I said I filled the top recessed part of the pill and filled the 2 holes all with soldering tin so it's all flush and sanded it smooth! Do you think this was a good or a bad idea? I mean it should give a little more surfice area for the spacer to sit on instead of the thin edges only!

everydaysurvivalgear
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Yea the proper spaces have a slightly smaller diameter on one side like 18mm so it sits inside the lip of the pill. More contact area that way.

hannesremo
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that's why I filled it with solder, so now the top of the pill is nice and flat as wide as the pill, nice surfice for spacer to rest on, do you think the solder will cool enough?

hannesremo
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I'm slacking better put up some pics soon too, should I just upload random pics or add some story behind it too? It just takes so long to upload pics and then write about it too, that's why I never do lol, but I understand pictures says more lol

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I am not sure. I’d leave it with just the spacer and pill sitting on each other. Once tighten you will have pressure making every thing stay in place. Plus the spacer is wide so there is no side movement and the lip help keep it stable.
Build it and see how it works. If the LEDs go blue they are to hot. Either way you won’t get long run times in small light with that much power.

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Yea upload pics and write a few words future modders will find the info useful especially about how you made the spacer.

hannesremo
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Hah, no I won't get any long run times lol, should be better than 18350's tho hoping to try it tomorrow and then making some pic updates after!

hannesremo
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doh....oh ok well guess I'll have to lol No but I'll do that for sure

hannesremo
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I might make some new ones to get a better solder connection between the coins later or cut some 2mm plate and stack it bit for now I'll try it out! Each led won't get that much current anyway, so should be safe? 

everydaysurvivalgear
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Are you running them in direct drive? Just think how hot a standard s2+ gets with 1 led at 3amps. It’s safe but I wouldn’t give it to just any one to use lol.
I wonder if you can forge the coins?

hannesremo
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Forge? you mean in fire like a blacksmith? I used a small iroda butane torch heated up in vise and soldered on top and sandwich them together so excess tin came out! I use the blf a6 driver!

hannesremo
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Oh I see! I basically did some forging today then haha, when I melted solder into the pill and smoothed it, you can actually forge some stuff with tin right?

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I did it. Just for fun and without pretension to perfection - I did not even sand the surfaces of the coins.

The first pics in the thread. Smile

 

 

I used 10 euro cent.

 

 

But it works very well - now in a S2+ Triple with Osram Oslon Square CQAR.CC 96 CRI (3500 K), Carclo 10509 and 1500 lumens. Smile

After 30 sec. the temperature on the head is too high to touch it which means a efficient heat dissipation. This idea is not bad and an alternative if no lathe or spacer available.

My LED tests: Cree SC5 based LEDs (WIP!)  ---  Nichia 319AT 83 CRI - Optisolis (3000/5000 K) - Lumileds Luxeon LXML-PWD9 - Luxeon MZ 5700 K (90 CRI, 3 V) - Luxeon V (CSP) 4000 K 70CRI - Luminus SST-40-W (+ dedomed) - Cree XP-L2 (+ High CRI variant) - XHP35 HI - XHP70.2 - CXA1304 COB - OSRAM OSLON Black Flat HWQP - SYNIOS DMLQ31.SGLE UW Q8WP - unknown 5050 LED ---- finished: JAXMAN M8 (Mini C8) HighCRI Triple

hannesremo
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sweet! looks similar to my spacer I'll put up some pics! However mine is not that even lol! I didn't even think about adding a smaller coin to fit into the pill, I just filled the recessed top part of the pill with solder and sanded it smooth!

hannesremo
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10 cent euro coins: nordic gold mix, 89% copper, 5% alu, 5% zink, 1% tin

Soldered together with torch, cleaned with acetone first!

 

 

Drilled hole and sanded smooth

 

Drilling pills:

 

Filling top recessed part of pill with solder!

 

Sanded pill

Filled again!

 

Pill Sanded smooth!

 

Spacer sanded smooth!

 

Finished!

 Stacking 3 coins and sanded to 5,5mm works best for me nice and tight lol!

Going to update with light finished soon!

This was very fun but time consuming lol! I might make some new spacers and sand in between them before soldering first!

Or I might cut out 20mm spacers from 2mm copper plate that I have with a hole saw and stack them together!

For now I'll try this! Stay tuned! Yeah yeah pics are late blah blah blah haha! Had some pc issues lol!

 

 

 

 

hannesremo
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you beat me to it haha!

hannesremo
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So the fact that I didn't sand between the coins is now bugging me should I redo them sanded between before soldering?

everydaysurvivalgear
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You can’t even buy that much copper for that price of the coin lol.
It looks fine to me.
Yea you where some what forging the coins you could probably melt them down and pour them into a mould that is already the right size. But that’s just overkill.

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