That flashlight comes in 1200 and 6000 lumen. I like sliding switch but have no idea how good it works. It also has 3 modes. There is no description but I assume it works the same as other brand. Just slide trough the 3 modes and press to switch to stepless dimming. If that’s even possible with a magnetig switch….?
Let me start with saying the 6000lm likely is overly positive. So let’s say it’s 2400. That’s still double. Even my 650lm BD04 gets a bit hot at max. Likely that would get problematic at 2400 lm on this not so big flashlight.
Battery life is important to me that’s why I like this cell format. Still compact. But lotsa power.
Anyway ontopic now. 1200 vs 6000lm.
My use:
a] I’m not using the light to light up something hundres of meters away like often is mentioned in the specs
b] I mostly use it for walking in basements, woods, backyard. Just to keep me from tripping and finding still. Sometimes large barn or smaller factory halls without light (obiously)
c] I also want low light for reading labels on for example spraycans. Even my 650lm Convoy reflects to much so I turn it down to 60lm or so. High powered flashlights often don’t go that low. Stepless dimming should do the trick. But I can’t imagine the theory differs from real life.
d] Floody is very welcome.
Does brighter flashlight have soem advantage for me. Mostly using it within a 20 yard range.
I’ll likely change the led for a high CRI and lower temp. So the current has to match the requirements of the high CRI led, which I think don’t get even close to 6000 lm.
For the sake of discussion lets assume the lights are 1200 and 4000.
Let’s say from a top brand with real specs.
What would be the best option for me considering the usage scenario I described?
How can you say the price is good if you don’t know any of the components? If it’s an XM-L, it’s probably something around 500 - 600 lumen. A bit less if it’s a fake Cree. Not all are bad, but the tint is really ugly most of the time. For a couple of bucks more you already get a Convoy S2+.
If I may recommend an alternative, I would suggest you look at the Emisar D4 with the Nichia 219C emitters from MTN electronics or intl-outdoor.
Throw sucks, but my god it produces a beautiful HCRI floody beam.
Infinitely variable levels from low to ludicrously high. User interface is cool, press and hold and it starts at lowest mode and ramps up, single click turns it off. A single click turns it back on at the level you left it. Double click from off to go straight to the highest setting.
Double click while on to toggle between current ramped level and highest output.
Be warned, it gets HOT on max, use it with high output cells.
I said it’s good because it’s really cheap and am planning (as I wrote in my first post) to replace the led with a low temp, high cri led. Perhaps also another driver.
If only the body is good then it’s still a good deal for $3.95.
Don’t forget that a driver with Narsil UI will cost you around 17 USD, then you will need a decent host with nice square threads, (instead of the crappy triangular ones which will dissappear after some rough use) and you will need a good DTP mcpcb with LEDs and optics which is around 16 USD as well, so please do yourself a favor and just buy the D4 :sunglasses:
Probably you need to register, if i’m correct the price is a couple of dollars less using M4DM4X compared to intl outdoor. EDIT, just checked, it seems the prices have changed and the prices are now similar! Too bad, so it’s no deal anymore.
Neal is very busy lately, Chinese newyear coming up and he is just married, so it will be sent, but communication from him will be at minimum.
The only 26650 i own is a Convoy L6, which is still stock, but thats quite a light, 3800 lumen on turbo.
Good compromise between output and runtime, and the quality is fantastic, solid as a rock, but its not for Everyday Carry.
There are several threads about it, and there are plenty of parts available to modify it. In stock it’s already great, but it’s a great host to modify as well.
It all depends on your criteria, what do you think is important on a light?