Any 80 or 90+ CRI LED flashlight should be a good choice. I have a Nichia 5000K 80+ CRI Noctigon M43, a custom built Nichia 5000K 80+ CRI triple JAXMAN E2L, and a Nichia 4000K 90+ CRI Convoy S2+. All are great at reproducing colors, much better than any of my other flashlights. Currently I prefer the 4000K with a CRI R9050 (Ra=90, R9=50) which brings out the reds better, but everyone else in my family prefers 5000K.
I’m sure the Nichia 219C 5000K 90+ CRI Emisar D4 would not disappoint. But if you want even more lumens and run time, the M43 is an excellent choice. Every time I use my M43, I’m impressed at how effortlessly is produces so much light. It will eventually get hot in turbo, but in the medium and high modes, it controls the heat very well. It’s not a “BIG” flashlight, but certainly performs like one.
Ah ha! I am very glad to hear feedback from you both. I found on other forums the Noctigon Meteor M43 and this light was liked by many for natural'ese. Then I ask myself, do I really need this 12 LED High Output light? The good in me said I did not. The bad in me said YES.
This Noctigon Meteor. Will Samsung 30Q's be fine, or should I get different?
I want to get the best performance and output possible.
Highest performance on turbo:
Samsung 30Q 3000mAh Button Top
LG HG2 3000mAh Button Top
Sony VTC6 3000mAh Button Top
Sony VTC5 2600mAh Button Top
Efest 35A 3000mAh Button Top
Efest 35A 2500mAh Button Top
LG HE4 2500mAh Button Top
Samsung 25R 2500mAh Button Top
Sony VTC4 2100mAh Button Top
Balance between increased runtime and turbo output:
LG MH1 3200mAh Button Top (10A Continous Drain)
Panasonic PF 2900mAh Button Top (10A Continuous Drain)
Pansonic/Sanyo GA 3500mAh Button Top (10A Continuous Drain) I may get four of these for the best of both
Oh, and 1 more thing, I think the M43 is probably the best tail standing flashlight available! It is short and stout. May come in handy with your photography since you can set it down and not worry about it falling over. It is extremely stable.