Zebralight SC5c mk II 4000k ugly green tint

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SKV89
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Zebralight SC5c mk II 4000k ugly green tint

I was so excited to receive my SC5c with XP-L2 4000k with 93-95CRI but once I turned it on, I was immediately disappointed. I compared it side by side with my Armytek Wizard v3 XP-L warm white, BLF A6 XP-L and Emisar D4 XP-L Hi both with 4000k and it was clear that the Zebralight was so much more green than the others which have a beautiful peach tone. I wish I bought the SC5w MK II with 4500k CRI 80 instead. Maybe it wouldn’t have been so greenish yellow. Yuck. The light is bright though. It is very close in brightness to my Thrunite Archer 2A v3 neutral white.

Edited by: SKV89 on 01/26/2018 - 00:28
Snoballz
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It’s amazing how one or two good lights with great tint will spoil you. The green tint probably isn’t noticeable to the average user.

hanoilighting208
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me too, i hate green tint

The gioi den chum trang tri noi that chat luong cao, gia thanh re tai Ha Noi

NeutralFan
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I recommend returning the flashlight back to ZebraLight. They have a unconditional 30 day return policy. I would expect the SC5c to have great tint and would not accept a greenish tint whatsoever! I have 2 ZebraLight flashlights, an SC52w L2 and an SC62w. Both have awesome tints that are neutral white with a hue of rose, not green at all. They are several years old, but still are going strong and tint-wise compare to my Nichia 80+ and 90+ CRI flashlights.

I’ve read of so many people having green tint issues with ZebraLight, the so called “tint lottery”. It’s too bad that this is still occurring and the main reason why I would be afraid to purchase another one.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

niraya
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Nice tint close to BBL, high CRI and warm CCT may and may not come together.

SKV89
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Given the price is $70, tint lottery is unacceptable. Even the very cheap BLF A6 XPL 4000k have amazing looking tint and color rendering actually looks alot better than the 92-95 CRI Zebralight SC5c mkII! I’m going to ask for an exchange for the Zebralight SC5w mkII with 4500k CRI 80

SKV89
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ERTD wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
I was so excited to receive my SC5c with XP-L2 4000k with 93-95CRI but once I turned it on, I was immediately disappointed. I compared it side by side with my Armytek Wizard v3 XPL3 warm white

XPL3 ? The further, the greener?

Oops typo. I meant XP-L

The_Driver
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If you had checked the datasheet of the XP-L2 and searched for the specifications Zebralight notes for this LED beforehand, you wouldn’t have been surprised. This is a specific problem of 4000K and higher CCT LEDs with Macadam’s Binning, especially with 2-step LEDs (they are all above the BBL).

A LEE Zircon (heat resistant minus-green) Filter should correct the deficit. I have actually done this with a light of mine which has this LED. It worked.

The_Driver
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Nichia has the same problem. The Nichia 219C with 4000K and 3-step Binning has a yellow tint (you can check the datasheet).
Only the older 219Bs with a different kind of Binning had reddish tints.

The_Driver
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Have you actually checked the datasheets? They show what is happening. It’s not Zebralight’s fault. If they used a Nichia LED they could only drive the LED with around 1.5A. Manufacturers usually don’t overdrive LEDs. This would result in a much dimmer flashlight which also has a smaller hotspot.

What you are asking for is not technically possible. There will always be tint variation during production. Zebralight’s is already using the most tightly binned LEDs.

The 219C 4000K R9050 403 (3-step) has a yellow tint above the BBL. It does not perfectly match sunlight @4000K.

WalkIntoTheLight
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I’ve been pretty lucky with my Zebralights. My SC5w-L2 is a little yellow, but I still like it for its warm tint.

My latest, the SC600w MkIV HI, has a fantastic tint. Warm, with almost no hint of green, and none of the traditional Cree purplish spill.

The “c” Zebralight versions sound nice, but from other reports I’ve read, they are often more green that the “w” version. I’d just stick with the “w” versions, since you often get a better tint and they’re brighter and more efficient. You do lose some CRI, though I find the “w” to be pretty good CRI anyway.

BTW, my SC5w has a nice tint. A little cooler than I expected, and it does have a purplish spill, but there is no green at all in the hotspot or corona.

SKV89
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ERTD wrote:
Not exactly. In fact, 4000K has naturally a yellow tint (based on daylight reference)

With Cree, yellow looks more greenish. I had 3500-4000K and some neutral-white from Cree, they all look greener than any of my Nichia led. Even dough the latest 219C has less red in their formulation, yet the yellow are nice (read pure)

My Jaxman E2L with nichia 219c 4000k actually is more yellow and much less red/peach than my XPL 4000k. Infact the XPL 4000ks in the three flashlights listed above looks far more attractive and neutral especially the Emisar D4 and Wizard Pro v3 XPL. I guess I would have to go with a very inefficient nichia 219b 4000k if I want warm/peach high CRI.

SKV89
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
I’ve been pretty lucky with my Zebralights. My SC5w-L2 is a little yellow, but I still like it for its warm tint.

My latest, the SC600w MkIV HI, has a fantastic tint. Warm, with almost no hint of green, and none of the traditional Cree purplish spill.

The “c” Zebralight versions sound nice, but from other reports I’ve read, they are often more green that the “w” version. I’d just stick with the “w” versions, since you often get a better tint and they’re brighter and more efficient. You do lose some CRI, though I find the “w” to be pretty good CRI anyway.

BTW, my SC5w has a nice tint. A little cooler than I expected, and it does have a purplish spill, but there is no green at all in the hotspot or corona.

Thanks for letting me know. I will try to exchange for the SC5w. The tint makes a huge difference, I find it more important than CRI.

The_Driver
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I have a modded Armytek Prime C2 (very similar to the Zebralight SC62) with a Nichia 219B-V1 R9080. It’s a nice light, but it gets hot a lot faster now in the highest mode (3A) compared to the stock Cree XP-L. It quickly throttles down because of this. The difference is noticeable.

Modding an XP-L2 light with a filter does not increase the heat as much. The plastic Filter doesn’t heat up the light.

Also, the XP-L2 U6? 4000K 90CRI is still more efficient than a Nichia 219B-V1 when used with a Lee minus-green filter (18% light loss)! At 3A the difference would still be around 190 otf lumens (based off of the 900 otf Lumens of the SC64c). At lower currents like in this SC5c the difference would of course be a bit smaller (percentage wise).

The_Driver
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I am just trying to say that the 219C 4000K 403 does not have a much better tint compared to the XP-L2 4000K 90CRI 2-step. The 219B-V1 is better but much, much less efficient.

Zebralight and Armytek have special drivers which nobody else offers (buck-boost and boost with lots of low modes). So if you want that you gotta buy their lights. If not then there are definitely more economical options which are also easier to mod.

The Nichia 144A 4500K R9050 is nice, but only with a diffused TIR lens. Even then is has a slightly yellow tint.

The E21A is probably the best option.

Bob_McBob
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I recently returned an SC64c because the overall tint from the high CRI XP-L2 was a particularly vile shade of yellow, with a nice rainbow from the centre to the spill.

jon_slider
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NeutralFan wrote:
I’ve read of so many people having green tint issues with ZebraLight, the so called “tint lottery”. It’s too bad that this is still occurring and the main reason why I would be afraid to purchase another one.

Take a look at this post
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59863
and you will see that Zebras have very low R9, hence lacking red, their yellow and green dominates