EBL 18650 review

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renton83
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EBL 18650 review

I ordered four of these EBL 18650 off amazon for about 20canadian dollars. I saw the positive reviews but got blasted for using them when I posted them on a Facebook flashlight group saying they were just rebranded ultrafire and would set my house on fire. I thought that a bit extreme so I’ve been testing them. The have been used in both my portable phone charger and in my flashlight. I find the capacity good for my needs but I have no way of testing as of yet. They do not get warm when charging and hold voltage even after sitting for several weeks. I think 3000mah is overly optimistic, I read it usually closer to 2000. I cut one open after fully discharging to see the construction and will post pics. Construction was good quality, cell was packed tight with no large hole in the middle like some cheap cells. I can see no sign that these are recycled cells. No signs of spot welding on the base and it all looks new. Cut open Shell Had issue unfolding two wrappers as I cut them

Edited by: renton83 on 01/28/2018 - 14:55
Funner
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I have been using EBL’s since mid 2017 with no problems. I have at least 10 18650’s and 10 RCR123 or 16340’s, by EBL. They have charged fine, ran fine and no heat. They are in mostly flashlights (Streamlight, no name led’s and P60 conversions), also in 2 rail mounted gun lights (Surefire and Streamlight), and also in 2 IR gun lights (Armasight and ATN).

I was just about to buy 4 26650’s and 8 more RCR123’s all by EBL.

I was also going to post the same question you asked before I bought this next batch, out of curiosity.

But all that I have, have been great.

Funner
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I also have a EBL charger that has charged great, a Nitecore that charges the EBL batteries, Nightcore batteries and Eagletac batteries and all vice verse.

Through all this EBL’s are used by me, the wife, or kids at least a total of 1 hr a day and up to 6 hrs a night if I am predator hunting.

renton83
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Yeah they do look like the horrible ultrafire batteries but I can’t see any similarities besides the wraping. The people on flashlight fanatics told me to throw out these EBL or risk burning down my place lol. I would love to test the capacity though, thinking of ordering a capacity tester as I can get these batteries for such a good deal on amazon. I don’t understand why I can’t find any good test data on these considering how many are being sold. It’s one of the few that is sold on the Canadian amazon and importing lithium cells is difficult these days.

Funner
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Seems like I saw some sort or rumor along those lines, but the person had no proof/evidence, and they had no experience. The person was just speculating. They are a great deal and work as good as any other rechargeables I have used.

Lexel
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you only see if they have a proper safety features build in if you open them

for low drain cells PTC to prevent too high currents drained
and
if they disconnect the anode mechanical when the cell vents

the last safety feature is really needed for any safe cell, it prevents the cell to heat up and catching fire when shorted
Most Ultrafire like bad quality cells cells dont have it, they start to vent when shortet, get extremely hot and start fireworks

renton83
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Don’t most batteries vent and overheat when shorted?

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renton83 wrote:
Don’t most batteries vent and overheat when shorted?

No and Yes. As Lexel stated, these cheap cells are almost always missing the physical protections PTC and CID. Explanation here . Where a good cell overheats, a lesser cell vents, and a crap cell experiences “rapid disassembly” and fire. People aren’t telling you that the cells are crap to be snobs or to rain on your parade. EBL cells are not good. There is a reason they are not used in tool packs, laptop batteries, electric cars, etc.

The word review is in the topic title, however you said you think that they are ok and around 2000mah. Have you tested this in any way? Do you know their continuous discharge rate? Chemistry type? Internal resistance? How does the capacity hold up under load? All of these things matter if it is to be used for anything worthwhile, and I bet that the company publishes no data. I can’t even find a website for them.

People say they are rebranded ultrafire because the wrapper is a direct rip off of this known low quality brand. To me that says a lot right there. These cells of unknown provenance are sold cheaply and manufactured even more cheaply with inflated claims on the wrapper, designed for folks who don’t know any better.

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moderator007
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I don’t know anything about these 18650’s but the 26650 seemed ok.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/51683

Lexel
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capacity is one thing but can the cell deliver 10 or 15A and is it safe for the case it gets shorted

Ultrafire 3000mAh

 

for example Ultrafire cell 2.75Ah at 0.2A discharge at 5A between 700 and 900mAh and no useful as the voltage sags like crazy after 20 seconds to 3.2V

renton83
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I am hoping someone with proper equipment can test these eventually as I’m really curious to see how they perform. My personal favourite is the Samsung 30Q and the LG HG2, those are all I use in my flashlights but for cheap battery packs to charge my phone I don’t care so much.

Lexel
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you could send 2 cells to HKJ he will make a proper test

But my guess is that they are exactly the same I linked, at 500mAh discharge test 2Ah sounds like them

EasyB
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The EBL 18650s have around 2000mAh. There are some YouTube “reviews” that show analyzing charger results. I think I have measured them at around 2000 also. The IR is not that low. I have a couple of them that I will measure later.

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A capacity test isn’t really a good test to check batteries unless you can load them with a load that is close to what they will be used for as seen in Lexel’s pic above. Under a .2amp load they’d be fine but under 5amp load they fall flat on their face. I have tested batteries with my hobby charger that would not even make 3amps load test. The voltage sag was so bad that by the time the charger reached the load of (it ramps up) 3amps the voltage was already below the cut off voltage and the test stopped. That’s one difference between cheap cells and quality cells. There is also differences in the way its made for safety. Cheap cells may or may not have ever been tested for safety. Quality cells are made to be safe and are tested (not saying things can’t happen). After all these quality cells we are using were meant to be in your home in a laptop or a car. I don’t really Know what the cheap cells were made for, a cheaper less performing alternative or just profit. I have seen a few cells that were very good cells from china (Aspire 18350). So I guess they can make good cells they just don’t unless the money is there. Question

EasyB
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I agree an actual discharge test with the load that is expected in use is the best test, but a (low load) capacity test in combination with an accurate IR measurement will usually tell you what you need to know. My turnigy reaktor hobby charger has a good IR test function that I will use with the EBL cells tonight.

Funner
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I gain from anyone who has knowledge or more knowledge than me which seems to be all of you. Are their forums or links on basics for meters to test batteries etc. I have confidence of my electrical abilities for home, car, flashlight builds, soldering, p60’s, etc. I have basic home GreenLee multimeters along with tools and a soldering iron.
I have a couple laptops with fried mother boards that still have good battery packs that I have confidence and no problem in safely pulling those.
What capacities etc would I be looking for?
My thoughts would be to pull the cells check the voltage, put in my Nitecore I2 charger and charger them. If it recognizes one as no good then that rules that one out.
I’m I missing any basics?
Thanks.

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Lots of good reading here. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_...
If you look around that place there’s about as much info on battery’s there that I know of.
More here. http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

renton83
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Funner wrote:
I gain from anyone who has knowledge or more knowledge than me which seems to be all of you. Are their forums or links on basics for meters to test batteries etc. I have confidence of my electrical abilities for home, car, flashlight builds, soldering, p60’s, etc. I have basic home GreenLee multimeters along with tools and a soldering iron.
I have a couple laptops with fried mother boards that still have good battery packs that I have confidence and no problem in safely pulling those.
What capacities etc would I be looking for?
My thoughts would be to pull the cells check the voltage, put in my Nitecore I2 charger and charger them. If it recognizes one as no good then that rules that one out.
I’m I missing any basics?
Thanks.

I have salvaged cells. I read up on it before and the experienced people seem to say the following. Measure voltage of cells after taking them from battery pack, if any is below about 2.5v discard. Charge the remaining while watching to see if they become too hot. After charging let them sit for a week or two and see if any have dropped voltage significantly and if they have discard those. This guy is extremly knowledgable about batteries, he has made his own electric car and runs his house of home made solar panels. He seems to prefer used name brand batteries for his projects then new no name like EBL lol. sorting used cells
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renton83 wrote:

I have salvaged cells. I read up on it before and the experienced people seem to say the following. Measure voltage of cells after taking them from battery pack, if any is below about 2.5v discard.

That’s what I was always told to, until about 4 years ago, a few of us tested a few off ebay. You’ll be surprised at the results.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/20513
Funner
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Thanks for the Battery U. link, definitely lots of info there.

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These EBL’S were that newbie sucker buy that I got fooled into. And than came BLF. Bought it on an Amazon flash sale for around $16 for a set of six. Seemed like a pretty good deal with fast shipping. Oh well, should have probably returned them.

They may be OK for low drain devices. Can someone advise about that. Would it be OK to use in the S2+ ?

"Keep On Luxing" © and "May The Lumin Be With You" © (by my very self)

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These EBL’S were that newbie sucker buy that I got fooled into when I started out. And than came BLF. Bought it on an Amazon flash sale for around $16 for a set of six. Seemed like a pretty good deal with fast shipping. Oh well, should have probably returned them.

They may be OK for low drain devices. Can someone advise about that. Would it be OK to use in the S2+ ?

"Keep On Luxing" © and "May The Lumin Be With You" © (by my very self)

EasyB
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EasyB wrote:
I agree an actual discharge test with the load that is expected in use is the best test, but a (low load) capacity test in combination with an accurate IR measurement will usually tell you what you need to know. My turnigy reaktor hobby charger has a good IR test function that I will use with the EBL cells tonight.

Measured a couple EBL 18650s I have and they were 75 to 85 mOhms. For comparison an old 30Q measured 31mOhms and a new VTC5A measured 19 mOhms.

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Tender wrote:
These EBL’S were that newbie sucker buy that I got fooled into when I started out. And than came BLF. Bought it on an Amazon flash sale for around $16 for a set of six. Seemed like a pretty good deal with fast shipping. Oh well, should have probably returned them.

They may be OK for low drain devices. Can someone advise about that. Would it be OK to use in the S2+ ?

Ha story of my life. Now I don’t really know what to do with them… I mean I don’t even have button tops anymore. Just got some panasonic 18650BD cells for $1/piece from an ebay mistake auction. Lol.

How do you guys load test and capacity test cells? I’ve got a cc cv buck converter at my disposal…wondering if I can use that to load the cells to something higher than 1 amp that my iMax b6 can handle…with the constant current I could just calculate the time and eventual mah…

Funner
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Since I posted last I have had 3 of my EBL’s leak fluid. It came out the positive end. I am in the works of replacing all of mine.

I am swapping my 18650’s with Samsung 25r and 30r. Also for button tops I am going with Nitecore’s.
For my 16340’s I’m swapping over to Nitecore protected.

For all my 26650’s I am now using all Keeppowers’s.

I had also contacted EBL and I received no reply about the issue. I learned my lesson on the EBL’s.

Funner
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Update on the EBL’s I still have in possession.

All of my EBL’s that have sat for a little time, in a flashlight or stored, have all drained on their own without being used. Yep if on was charged, in a month it would be dead without use.

So my go to batteries are Keeppower’s 26650’s, 18650’s, 18350’s, Samsung 18650’s, and Nitecore’s. O and EVVA

Have a good one.

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I bought a few of these when I was a new to the 18650 game and I have yet to have an issue with an EBL. They do test to 2000 mah and some lights do not produce the output of a good battery. Their customer service seems ok as well. Every time I bought them from Amazon they would sent me a message asking if I was happy with the product. My answer, no matter what anyone says about them is still "Yes, they work great". Are they my go to batteries for High drain devices, not usually. These batteries cost me $1.60 each. They are worth every penny. If they cost as much as anything else then I wouldn't have bought them. Mine have sat for a year and are at 3.90v to 4.0v. Most are 4v.