Thorfire TK05 / Full review

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robo819
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Thorfire TK05 / Full review

This is the Throfire TK05 , sent for my review and NO other comepensation other than keeping the light.

As far as I know the 20% off code is working at the time of this review …. L4SPZS6H
Light can be found at ……… https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-Flashlight-Side-Switch-Rechargeable-Incl... (link NON affliated)

I know there are a few reviews out already on this light , but Thorfire asked me to do a review and I have had a number of set backs and / or hold up since that time , so my apologies to them and everyone else for not having this done sooner.

The TK05 is the newest Thorfire EDC style light , powered by either a 14500 , AA Alkaline or NiMH cell.
The light arrived in a padded mailing envelope with the Thorfire box inside that and the light itself in a bubble wrap sleeve inside the box. The package contains the TK05 , User manual and 2 extra O-rings.

The TK 05 is a side switch only with a simple UI , having only Low, Medium , High and hidden strobe modes , with last mode memory also.
To turn the light on it is a simple click of the side switch , then to change modes a quick click to advance to the next level and a quick double click to get the strobe mode. A longer press turns the light off and as mentioned the last used mode will be memorized. The strobe can be accessed from any other mode including off.

The over all appearance of the TK05 is very pleasing to my personal liking , with the large Pineapple style knurling on it , the metallic side switch and sliver clip to compliment that. The TK05 does tailstand well on a flat surface and although it does not come with a lanyard (at least my sample didn’t) there are 2 large lanyard holes if you wanted to put one on it.
The styling is much like that on the TK18 , so if you have that one it makes a nice pair. Also if you have , or if you are familiar with the TG06 , the TK05 is just slightly shorter than that one.

The threads are all well machined and smooth on this one and the anodizing is well done also.
Manual Lockout only , at the head or the tailcap either one with about 1/8th of a turn.

There are Fins on the TK05 , although they are shallow , they do the job needed for this light. The light does not seem to need alot of cooling and does not get to the point of being really what I would call hot.
There is however a step down at 3 minutes and if you go back into the High mode right away after the step down , then the light will start getting fairly hot the second cycle in High using the 14500 cell.

The emitter is a XP-G3 sitting in the Orange peel reflector.

The beam is a more floody beam with the OP reflector , but for the small size and reflector it has , it does give a decent amount of distance to go along with the floody beam.
Distances in the below shots…. 3 feet (low) , 22 feet (Medium and High) from garage door. From Gate 75 , 50 and 25 yards in High mode………

I think it should be mentioned that longer cells (over 51mm or 52mm) will probably not work in the TK05 , as I tried a couple of protected cells over the 51mm length and they would not work. I think it is the way the tailcap is designed as it has a flat area inside and NO retaining ring to allow that little bit of extra length from the way it looks to me. Also there is the fact that the spring is totally compressed with the longer cells. The AA alkalines and the AA Eneloop Pro , both work fine in the light , as do the unprotected button and flat top 14500.

Nothing is glued on the TK05 , so those who want to do mods on it will not have any problem getting into the light at all.

Overall I think the TK05 is a very nice little light and good for EDC.
The only negative I have with this one is the XP-G3 emitter , as it does have that Olive color around the main hotspot that seems to be present with most of the XP-G3 emitter lights.

Here are the charts on the testing I have done with the TK05……….

For those who do not want to watch the whole video , the beamshots and stills of the light start at 6:43 of the video timeline and the live outdoor footage with comparison to the TK05 and the Thrunite Archer V2 starts at 9:24 of the timeline.

I kept saying TG05 in the video when showing this light , but it is in fact the TK05.

Video followed by listed specs……….


Specification:
CREE XPG3 Led: with life span of 20+ years
Size: 3.5inch(Length)*0.75 inch(Body diameter)
Weight: 1.48 oz (excluding battery)
Color Temperature: 5350-5700K
Single Side Switch for on/off and output selection
High efficiency lens

Operation:
On and Off
Press and release the side switch to turn on the flashlight, Press and hold the switch to turn off the light.

Mode Change:
Turn light on and click side switch to cycle through different brightness modes. The TK05 will cycle Low/Mid/High. In any mode, a fast double click of the side switch activates the strobe mode. Another click of the side switch will return you to the previous mode.

Lockout:
To prevent accidental activation in a pocket or purse simply unscrew the tail cap 1/5 turn for a mechanical lockout. Tighten the tail cap to resume normal operation.

Caution:
The TK05 is very bright, Do not stare directly into beam or shine it directly into anyone’s face. If light will be stored for an extended period it is recommended that the battery be removed to avoid any leakage risk which might damage the light.

What’s in the package:
1* ThorFire TK05 Led Flashlight
2* Spare O-rings
1* user manual

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

Edited by: robo819 on 05/02/2018 - 11:47
rickw12
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So even with AAs it steps down from 240 to around 80 lumens?

Rick

robo819
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rickw12 wrote:
So even with AAs it steps down from 240 to around 80 lumens?

I didn’t even check the AA or Eneloop when I did my testing but……….

I have just ran the light with the Eneloop Pro for 7 minutes and it did not step down and was at 253 lumens at the 7 minute mark.

EDIT: I need to mention I have already changed the emitter to a XP-L V6 so the lumens are higher than what the XP-G3 will be.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

rickw12
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Interesting. Is there any patter to what level of lumens causes a light to step down?

Rick

robo819
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rickw12 wrote:
Interesting. Is there any patter to what level of lumens causes a light to step down?

It seems to be a thermal step down really. The light gets much hotter with the 14500 than with the AA or NiMH.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

rickw12
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One more question about this one. I have UltraFire protected 14500s that are a hair under 50mm. Will they fit?

Rick

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rickw12 wrote:
One more question about this one. I have UltraFire protected 14500s that are a hair under 50mm. Will they fit?

Just a FYI…….I am not trying to be a smart AZZ or anything like that but , as a general rule the Ultrafire cells (especially the smaller sizes) have been proven many times by the people in this forum to be more or less junk and can be dangerous.
The internal resistance is usually pretty poor (high) among a number of other factors , such as a tiny cell wrapped in a larger casing to make the size right , with a wire connected to each end of the outer casing and packed with sand to make the weight right.

I would suggest getting some good name brand cells such as Samsung , Sony , Panasonic and such.

The protected or unprotected either one in a 50mm length will be fine and TK05. I would guess up to maybe 52 or 53 mm would still work ok , although it may start being a tight fit by then.

EDIT: I am thinking of the wrong light……..51mm will probably be the max length on the TK05

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

zespectre
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High to Med is a 3 minute timed step down.

Tonights forecast, 100% chance of dark.

zespectre
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Quote:
as a general rule the Ultrafire cells (especially the smaller sizes) have been proven many times by the people in this forum to be more or less junk and can be dangerous.

Just throwing in a bit more in the way of details. The big problem is the whole series of “xxxFire” names never got patented or copyrighted so there are any number of fly-by-night folks who make random cells of unknown quality and then they get wrapped with “whatever” name.

So in fact you can actually get decent cells with a xxxFire name on them, but the odds are NOT good and really it just isn’t worth the risk.

Tonights forecast, 100% chance of dark.

robo819
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rickw12 wrote:
Interesting. Is there any patter to what level of lumens causes a light to step down?

It depends on the driver and what is flashed into the programming. Some step down using a thermal sensor , others step down due to a timer and at the point that timer is set at (1 minute , 2 minutes etc….)
Most lights now also have low voltage protection , which is a sensor or sensors that will send a signal to the MCU which in turn will cut the power level to the driver as the cell or cells start getting lower on voltage. Usually around 3 volts as a medium is where the power starts dropping off and then 2.7 to around 2.9 volts is where the Low Voltage Protection will shut the light down completely.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

robo819
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zespectre wrote:
Quote:
as a general rule the Ultrafire cells (especially the smaller sizes) have been proven many times by the people in this forum to be more or less junk and can be dangerous.

Just throwing in a bit more in the way of details. The big problem is the whole series of “xxxFire” names never got patented or copyrighted so there are any number of fly-by-night folks who make random cells of unknown quality and then they get wrapped with “whatever” name.

So in fact you can actually get decent cells with a xxxFire name on them, but the odds are NOT good and really it just isn’t worth the risk.

The “fire” in the name for the most part people avoid. There are a few cells such as some of the Trustfire and Thorfire and Windyfire that come to mind right off , that are actually decent cells.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

agent80
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Timed step down to 80 lumens? Why would they do such a thing?

rickw12
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Learning, ever learning. It would be helpful if businesses would add “junk” in parentheses by their products. There’s just something about spending more for batteries and charger than for the flashlight that galls me (obviously, this isn’t a serious hobby of mine).

Rick

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agent80 wrote:
Timed step down to 80 lumens? Why would they do such a thing?

As far as their stand point I really cant answer that.

It is a dual cell capable driver though , so it is possible that could be part of it maybe?

The light does not get hot by the 3 minute mark but if it was running 5 minutes or more it would start getting pretty warm by then and be depleting the cell at a much faster rate due to the constant current driver trying to get more from less from the depleting cell.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

rickw12
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Is there any way to tell, by looking at them, whether mine are good ?

Rick

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agent80 wrote:
Timed step down to 80 lumens? Why would they do such a thing?

Having dealt with a number of Thorfire products at this point, I’m pretty sure they control costs by using a number of the same drivers, switches, and programming arrangements for multiple light branches.

For example, the 1,000 Lumen 18650 based TK15S does start to warm up fairly quickly and a three minute timed step-down makes some sense (though personally I’d have gone for 4-5 min).

Take the same driver and switch and put it in the TK05 and you’ve reduced parts cost, but you have people scratching their head as to why the light runs like it does.

Tonights forecast, 100% chance of dark.

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rickw12 wrote:
Is there any way to tell, by looking at them, whether mine are good ?

Rick,
I don’t know of any way just by looking at the cells to figure out their provenance or quality level.

The best thing I can suggest is to use them with a bit of caution, don’t just leave them sitting in a light long term, don’t run them all the way down, and use a good quality charger that will abort the charge if something isn’t right.

Personally, I also bought several ceramic tiles from Home Depot and all of my chargers sit on a ceramic tile as a bit of extra fire protection.

If you decide to dump them and get something else, I’ve been happy with the Jetbeam branded 14500 cells but there are a lot of others out there too.

Tonights forecast, 100% chance of dark.

robo819
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rickw12 wrote:
Is there any way to tell, by looking at them, whether mine are good ?

No there is not unfortunately , but with them being the 14500 size Ultrafire , I would almost bet they are not very good quality.

If you already have a charger though you can get some decent cells without spending a fortune really.

Richard at Mountain Electronics sells the Windyfire 14500 for $2.99 each ($2.89 for 2 or more) and he is a great guy to deal with as so many here do.
They are Unprotected , but the light itself has built in Low voltage protection and will shut off when the cells start getting too low , so really the protection circuit on the cell is not needed in the end , unless it is just something you feel better about using.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_87...

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

rickw12
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So, two UltraFires and a cheap charger here. Not getting off to a good start.

I’m going to buy an 18650 flashlight (likely a Convoy S9) and a smaller, 14500 light to carry in my bag. It looks like I should be prepared to dump a good amount of $ in a good quality charger that does both (and good batteries, too, of course). Or just get lights that take alkalines (I know, heresy around here).

Rick

rickw12
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Will it say in the light’s description whether it has low-voltage protection?

Rick

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rickw12 wrote:
So, two UltraFires and a cheap charger here. Not getting off to a good start.

I’m going to buy an 18650 flashlight (likely a Convoy S9) and a smaller, 14500 light to carry in my bag. It looks like I should be prepared to dump a good amount of $ in a good quality charger that does both (and good batteries, too, of course). Or just get lights that take alkalines (I know, heresy around here).

Depending on what you want to start with really as to whether you spend “BIG” bucks or not………
A Nitecore D2 (will charge 1 or 2 cells) or Nitecore D4 (will charge from 1 to 4 cells) are both solid basic chargers that will handle NiMh/NiCd batteries in the – AA, AAA, AAAA, C, D sizes and also will handle the Li-ion cells from the 10340 size all the way up to 26650’s.

IMR batteries sells a lot of different chargers and they have both the above mentioned chargers , as well as a pretty big selection of batteries. Many times you can catch them having a sale and get pretty good prices on the batteries also.
The D2 is $15.00
https://www.imrbatteries.com/nitecore-d2-2-channel-digital-battery-charger/
and the D4 is $24.00
https://www.imrbatteries.com/nitecore-d4-4-channel-digital-battery-charger/

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

zespectre
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rickw12 wrote:
I’m going to buy an 18650 flashlight (likely a Convoy S9) and a smaller, 14500 light to carry in my bag. It looks like I should be prepared to dump a good amount of $ in a good quality charger that does both (and good batteries, too, of course). Or just get lights that take alkalines (I know, heresy around here).

Well, I guess I can still talk to a heretic (LOL).
If you are looking for a much better than expected 1xAA light, I was quite pleasantly surprised by the Fenix E12
Real World Review Here

As to chargers, man you can go down a serious rabbit hole there and I’m sure many will be happy to give you recommendations.
Right now I’m using a pair of NiteCore D4 chargers and have been very happy with them.

If you want to talk further PM me so we don’t keep hijacking this thread Smile

Tonights forecast, 100% chance of dark.

rickw12
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Thanks.

Rick

robo819
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zespectre wrote:
rickw12 wrote:
I’m going to buy an 18650 flashlight (likely a Convoy S9) and a smaller, 14500 light to carry in my bag. It looks like I should be prepared to dump a good amount of $ in a good quality charger that does both (and good batteries, too, of course). Or just get lights that take alkalines (I know, heresy around here).

Well, I guess I can still talk to a heretic (LOL).
If you are looking for a much better than expected 1xAA light, I was quite pleasantly surprised by the Fenix E12
Real World Review Here

As to chargers, man you can go down a serious rabbit hole there and I’m sure many will be happy to give you recommendations.
Right now I’m using a pair of NiteCore D4 chargers and have been very happy with them.

If you want to talk further PM me so we don’t keep hijacking this thread Smile

Again I am not trying to be a smart azz …….But why go with 130 lumens for slightly more money than the TK05 and be limited to the AA only , when you can have double the lumens using AA or NiMH with the TK05 or 600 lumens with the 14500 ?

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

zespectre
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robo819 wrote:
zespectre wrote:
rickw12 wrote:
I’m going to buy an 18650 flashlight (likely a Convoy S9) and a smaller, 14500 light to carry in my bag. It looks like I should be prepared to dump a good amount of $ in a good quality charger that does both (and good batteries, too, of course). Or just get lights that take alkalines (I know, heresy around here).

Well, I guess I can still talk to a heretic (LOL).
If you are looking for a much better than expected 1xAA light, I was quite pleasantly surprised by the Fenix E12
Real World Review Here

As to chargers, man you can go down a serious rabbit hole there and I’m sure many will be happy to give you recommendations.
Right now I’m using a pair of NiteCore D4 chargers and have been very happy with them.

If you want to talk further PM me so we don’t keep hijacking this thread Smile

Again I am not trying to be a smart azz …….But why go with 130 lumens for slightly more money than the TK05 and be limited to the AA only , when you can have double the lumens using AA or NiMH with the TK05 or 600 lumens with the 14500 ?

LOL, no that is a perfectly reasonable question.
In fact, things like that are EXACTLY why I do the “Real World Review” in the format I do.

First, let me be very clear that I LOVE the TK05, when used with a 14500 which it pretty much seems to have been designed to do. However run the TK05 on an AAA, and I actually like the Fenix E12 better.

Secondly, I still haven’t found anything better than AA or AAA Lithium primary batteries for a true “long storage” emergency light, especially for example one that is going into a bug-out-bag or is going to be kept in a car glove box. So running “just” an AA lithium… I’ll vote for the E12. Of course that goes out the window if someone gets around to making a “cold weather” 14500 like Nitecore just did with 18650 cells.

Tonights forecast, 100% chance of dark.

robo819
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I am not trying to argue about it , and if you like the light just because you like it (design or what have you) then that I also understand , as I have a few that are favorites that might not have the output of others in the same class.

I can respect your reasons why you like the E12 , but the TK05 will run on those same Lithium primaries also wont it? and still give twice the lumen output of the E12.

Just trying to wrap my head around why you like the lesser output , unless it is like I said , for the design or UI or something of that nature.

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

zespectre
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It’s the beam. I can understand why you wouldn’t “get it” and I don’t blame you but if you actually held the two lights side by side running AA batteries, I think you might be surprised that the TK05 sure doesn’t seem twice as bright.

Again, it’s one of those real world things that is super hard to show in photos and graphs. Sometimes a specific light is just far better in actual use than any of the numbers would indicate.

Tonights forecast, 100% chance of dark.

robo819
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zespectre wrote:
It’s the beam. I can understand why you wouldn’t “get it” and I don’t blame you but if you actually held the two lights side by side running AA batteries, I think you might be surprised that the TK05 sure doesn’t seem twice as bright.

Again, it’s one of those real world things that is super hard to show in photos and graphs. Sometimes a specific light is just far better in actual use than any of the numbers would indicate.

I got ya…..

Yea I wanted a little different beam in the TK05 myself , so I took the XP-G3 out of it and put a XP-L V6 3D in it. Got 111 lumens more from the 14500 and another 97 lumens from the NiMH and just a better overall beam , while keeping the dual cell use.

I liked it stock , but now I like it a lot……….lol

Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:

Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 /// ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / MCC-4S , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 /// ###  Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini ,  M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Small Sun ZY-T43 / Warsun X60  //////// ### Thorfire /// PF03PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 ,  VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A  , S1 , VG15 S  , TK 18 //// Atactical (Wowtac) // A1S , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC

DB Custom
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My buddy found this light and liked it so much he sent me one too! Big Smile

I didn’t really care for the XP-G3 either so after some testing showing it’s output I also swapped in the XP-L V6 3D emitter. This made it very nice but I really have no use for the AA capability so, at my buddy’s urging, I built an FET +1 driver for it and flashed it with Anduril. Smile

So now it is a dedicated 14500 light that is capable of 1386 lumens out the front. Anduril is ToyKeepers ramping firmware that allows floor and ceiling to be set in the ramp, so controlling normal top end is easy and a double click goes into Turbo when/if needed. Lightning and candlepower modes are the icing on the cake, making this little beauty of a light an exceptional EDC!

Thanks Rick, thanks TK, very much appreciated! Love

Dale

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The TK05 has a vertical pcb on the main battery contact board that holds the switch, so I de-soldered this vertical board and used it on the FET+1 driver, it fit between the MCU and FET. I notched the bottom on either side to straddle a capacitor and the 7135 component, used a piece of copper sheet to solder between the ground pins of the FET and the switch ground, ran a positive side wire from the switch to the MCU through a notch cut on top of this pcb. Then, after testing it all, this morning I took the light apart again and encased the entire assembly in yellow Sugru, an uncured silicone. So now the switch board can’t move and the wire from the switch is also secured, as well as the FET being insulated as if it needs it. Essentially, potted the driver in silicone. Wink

For those that haven’t tried it, I strongly recommend Sugru for a wide variety of uses. Check it out. Wink

Edit: For clarification purposes I will say that I stripped all the components from the switch pcb, leaving only the switch, and cleared the lower part of the board to ensure no electrical connection could touch the MCU. Wink

Edit II: Oh, and FWIW, after spring bypasses and a full charge on the Efest flat top 14500 cell this little light makes 1455.9 lumens out the front at start. Big Smile

Dale

eas
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Sounds like a great mod! I wonder how the same approach would work with the SP33, which also has a similar switch/driver configuration. I’d love to fit one of Lexel’s upcoming boost drivers into an SP33 and fit it out with an XPH35/50/70.

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Bitcoin is a terrible currency. That doesn’t make it a great investment.

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