Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

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Yokiamy
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What size mcpcb does it use?
i have got some spare MPCB’s from S2+ mod’s, it might be nice to swap in one of those

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Yokiamy wrote:
What size mcpcb does it use?
i have got some spare MPCB’s from S2+ mod’s, it might be nice to swap in one of those

Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Yokiamy
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Thank you Mascaratum, but is it 16 or 20 mm?

MascaratumB
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Yokiamy wrote:
Thank you Mascaratum, but is it 16 or 20 mm?

It’s 20mm Wink Sorry, I forgot to indicate the measures! Facepalm

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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contigo wrote:
Its too bad some of these lights are getting little complicated for the everyday wife/younger person/regular weekend camper.
I can see them remembering the functionality if they use it for a long time and if this is the only light they have, to avoid muscle memory confusion.
IMO so many of these newer flashlights arent made for the everyday person due to UI,

With this light you can do one click on and one click off. So even if you don’t remember how to control it, it is still functional.

All you have to remember is try dbl click, try press and hold and see what happens. True for any light.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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JasonWW wrote:
contigo wrote:
Its too bad some of these lights are getting little complicated for the everyday wife/younger person/regular weekend camper.
I can see them remembering the functionality if they use it for a long time and if this is the only light they have, to avoid muscle memory confusion.
IMO so many of these newer flashlights arent made for the everyday person due to UI,

With this light you can do one click on and one click off. So even if you don’t remember how to control it, it is still functional.

All you have to remember is try dbl click, try press and hold and see what happens. True for any light.

I have the Acebeam H10, and it is as simple as it gets, but it is not a cheap headlight though: press and hold to ON/OFF and it will turn ON in the last used mode (from 5 modes: ML-L-M-H-T). No blinkies, nothing to get in the way.

This headlight being reviewed here is not complicated, but I do understand what you mean. However, there are always other options to fit one’s necessity and “capability” to operate the light Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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which light you have on the left in the second picture?

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

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20 mm. But 16 will be OK. You just need to extend one of the wires.

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DoubleA wrote:
which light you have on the left in the second picture?
You must be talking to me (2nd pic in the O.P.). It’s the BLF Edition SA-22 Starry Light 4xAA, XM-L2 3C.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
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Yeah, the UI can be a little difficult for one person to describe and another to understand. It basically has 3 mode groups: the “Medium & High” that a single click enters, the “Stepped Ramping” which is entered from EITHER the first mode group’s Medium or High, and then the blinky modes entered by a quick Double-click at anytime. From the “Stepped Ramping” mode group, one click brings you back to the first mode group (whichever level you were in prior to entering mode group 2), and then another click to go OFF.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
MascaratumB
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One think that may be important to make some decisions about this light (for those who may be interested):
Weight and dimensions:

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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garrybunk wrote:
Hmm, I’d swear it was mentioned in one of the Russian threads (there is another I didn’t link) that it accepts optics and I guess I assumed they were the widely available ones.

-Garry

Wildcat wrote:
PWM 16 kHz.
TIR from Convoys works perfect. Swapped led to samsung lh351d hi-cri Thumbs Up

Do not be afraid to cut the lens, you cut off the idle part of the lens and this does not affect the light.

Or you can use TIR 17mm from Skilhunt, it is another good option.

Wildcat wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Wildcat, so that the Convoy TIRs fit, you had to cut them, right? Cause the ones I had didn’t fit, but if I file the edges they will probably fit.
Yes, you just need to file the edges that the TIR entered the bezel. With any 3535 LED (xp-g, xp-l, nichia 219, samsung lh351d) TIR rests directly in the star. It is only necessary to add an o-ring between the TIR and the bezel for tightness.

Just filed a pebbled TIR – the upper lateral edges – and it fits perfectly!
It completely eliminates the hotspot tint shift that the headlamp had originally!
Thanks for the tips on this! Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Lightbringer
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Sounds like a decent enough light, but I agree, what an absolutely hideous UI.

I’d look into completely stripping the guts from it, using a micro powerbank charging board to keep internal charging, then replace the driver with something decent. If the switch is momentary, maybe pilfer the driver from an e-switch light.

And as long as it wouldn’t mung anything else, bore out the emitter area to fit a real 20mm TIR, vs having to shave down every one I’d want to try/use.

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garrybunk
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I don’t understand why the UI is so hideous! I mean, do you always need instant access to every possible output? This isn’t a light I would want coming on with a very low level. The average “muggle” can give it one click, have a nice usable output, then click again to turn off.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
Wildcat
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It has a very simple and logical interface. Its charger is assembled at 4057, why and for what to change it?

Yes, he has a fet-driver. Simple and reliable. He does his job well. But if you can make for it an inexpensive driver with stabilization, minimum leakage currents and with a programmable interface, then we will be very happy. Yes, a cool driver for a flashlight for ten bucks Wink

And yes, switch is momentary.

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garrybunk wrote:
I don’t understand why the UI is so hideous! I mean, do you always need instant access to every possible output?

Who said anything about “instant access to every possible mode”?

I don’t understand why a headlamp would need strobe, beacon(!), other blinkies. Long-clicks, double-clicks, short-clicks, click-from-on, click-from-off, click-from-strobe… good God, talk about convoluted! It’s like 30 people designed the UI, each with his own unique idea of what it “should be like”.

Have either steps or ramping, and just have the damned thing remember its last-used mode. Simple on/off with a click, and whatever machinations to increase/decrease brightness. That’s a UI for a headlamp.

Anyone who puts blinkies into a headlamp should be dragged into an alley and beaten with sticks.

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Lightbringer wrote:
I don’t understand why a headlamp would need strobe, beacon(!), other blinkies. Long-clicks, double-clicks, short-clicks, click-from-on, click-from-off, click-from-strobe… good God, talk about convoluted! It’s like 30 people designed the UI, each with his own unique idea of what it “should be like”.

Have either steps or ramping, and just have the damned thing remember its last-used mode. Simple on/off with a click, and whatever machinations to increase/decrease brightness. That’s a UI for a headlamp.

Anyone who puts blinkies into a headlamp should be dragged into an alley and beaten with sticks.

Lightbringer, like you, I don’t like blinkies! And I will not defend this “cheap, bugdet, it’s-good-but-it’s-not-the-ultimate-headlight-in-the-world”!

BUT, the blinkies are all hidden through a “real”, “intentionaldouble click to activate those modes!

Also, you will always know in which mode the light will turn ON, and that’s on Medium, because that is the only mode that has been memorized in this light!

More than that: if you just want to use the light with 1 mode, you can: single click for ON (turns ON on Medium) > wait more than 2 seconds > single click for OFF. Simple! Wink

If you want a higher output: single click for ON (turns ON on Medium) > single click for High > Single click for OFF. Simple! Wink

This is as simple as it can be regarding to that!

For ramping, just press and hold from any regular mode!!
Yes, I would like to ramp up, but this ramps down till the lowest and then goes back to the highest mode. And then goes down again. 5>4>3>2>1>5>4>3>2>1…..

And no blinkies in the middle. Just if you want! And if you want, you can select them: double click for Strobe > double click for SOS > double click for Beacon > single click for OFF or double click for Strobe > and when on Strobe, single click for the last used mode! If when on Strobe will make a long press, when you release it, the light will turn OFF Wink

So, I guess this is not perfect! But it is not a headache to make this work! And you and I know we’ve seen and taste worst UIs than this one Evil

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

mountainair26
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Thanks GB, great review. Anyone take a look at the driver for possible current increase mods or have another driver in mind that might be swapped in for different UI and/or a little more output?

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UI might not be as abysmal as I thought at first impression, but it’s still a faux-simple. RampingUI is just as “simple” when you think of it, but it actually quite elaborate enough to make people stop and wonder how they’ll get to the mode they want

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My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

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Well I’ll agree on the fact that the blinkies don’t belong in a headlamp at all; I guess I’m not bothered because they are so well hidden (heck, I didn’t even realize there was SOS and Beacon). No sense continuing to argue on whether or not this UI is perfect or not as many will have their own ideas of what the perfect headlamp UI is.

I’m too afraid to ruin a good light to pull the driver out. I would bet the output could be modded with changing/adding current sense resistors, but honestly I wouldn’t want any more current than it already draws (1.87A on high).

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
JasonWW
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For anyone wondering why a headlamp would have any blinking modes, you have to remember all the different uses for a headlamp. Some people, like myself, only use them for close-up work such as out to 5 or maybe 10ft. Other people may use them for walking through the woods or jogging on the street. For a jogger, the strobe or beacon may be considered a safety feature to keep them from being hit by a car.

We now have headlamps with xhp70.2 and 3,000 lumen. What is that for? Who needs it? Lol

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

Lightbringer
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MascaratumB wrote:
So, I guess this is not perfect! But it is not a headache to make this work! And you and I know we’ve seen and taste worst UIs than this one Evil

And that’s why I do my absolute best to avoid them…

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JasonWW
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Are people hatin on the boruit? Don’t do that. This is like the best bargain headlight on the market. If somebody wants to hate, they can go hate on all the the truly crappy headlights out there. Silly

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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I’m not hating by any means (well, I hate the UI, but not the product as as whole), it’s even on my aliexpress cart right now, just waiting for me to choose what batteries I’ll try to get from Elfeland since they showed up with free shipping to Brazil (odd, probably won’t ship and I’ll have to ask for a refund, but why not try it?), so I’ll be ordering either this light or the RJ-02 by tomorrow

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

Persechini
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Well, after making peace with xp-l emitters following a nichia spree, guess I’m a UI snob now

In my Tree

My collectionEmisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)

Lightbringer
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JasonWW wrote:
Are people hatin on the boruit? Don’t do that. This is like the best bargain headlight on the market. If somebody wants to hate, they can go hate on all the the truly crappy headlights out there. Silly

You kidding? I recently changed my name to RJ02. I just despise the sound of this particular UI.

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Does it seem like a non - e-switch driver could be swapped into it? Although the usb charging feature might be lost? It looks like a decent host to handle some heat within normal current limits and for shorter periods of time. Having crescendo or some kind of ramping firmware could be useful. I'm looking for a moderate thrower with some useful spill. Other than swapping the mcpcb, does anyone see this light as a host with other potential for mods? or just a good value as it stands? That depends on the intended end product, but I'm thinking at least a dedomed xm-l2 with 2.5-3ish output on high for maybe 90 seconds max if possible. I haven't modded too many headlamps, so that might be more current than necessary though. My goal is something like 100yards of visibility or more and a non-pencil beam. Does anyone think it could handle an xhp50 or xhp35 with the right driver and wattage, or is that pushing the limits for your every-day modder (without a lathe, tons of experience, and the ability to mold copper to your will)? This is BLF, but are you better off spending more if upping the output and throw is the end game? I mean, crazier things have been done before, and I applaud that:

 

Mike C's Mt-g2 Headlamp

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garrybunk wrote:
DoubleA wrote:
which light you have on the left in the second picture?
You must be talking to me (2nd pic in the O.P.). It’s the BLF Edition SA-22 Starry Light 4xAA, XM-L2 3C.

-Garry

Thank you

and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...

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Location: Houston Texas

mountainair26 wrote:

Does it seem like a non – e-switch driver could be swapped into it? Although the usb charging feature might be lost? It looks like a decent host to handle some heat within normal current limits and for shorter periods of time. Having crescendo or some kind of ramping firmware could be useful. I’m looking for a moderate thrower with some useful spill. Other than swapping the mcpcb, does anyone see this light as a host with other potential for mods? or just a good value as it stands? That depends on the intended end product, but I’m thinking at least a dedomed xm-l2 with 2.5-3ish output on high for maybe 90 seconds max if possible. I haven’t modded too many headlamps, so that might be more current than necessary though. My goal is something like 100yards of visibility or more and a non-pencil beam. Does anyone think it could handle an xhp50 or xhp35 with the right driver and wattage, or is that pushing the limits for your every-day modder (without a lathe, tons of experience, and the ability to mold copper to your will)? This is BLF, but are you better off spending more if upping the output and throw is the end game? I mean, crazier things have been done before, and I applaud that.


If you don’t mind losing the usb charging, the Crelant CH10 that I got seems to be a good candidate for modding. It’s uses an e-switch so you can run a pretty conventional driver. A FET with NarsilM for instance. They can be had with a variety of genuine cree emitters in different tints. You would probably need to swap it to a top of the line DTP mcpcb, though. Overall, it’s a pretty beefy aluminum design so it can handle the heat well.

This new Boruit looks a bit tricky to mod due the switch being on the driver. Maybe it’s got another pcb behind the first one that is the actual driver? Maybe. If so, then it might make a good host.

Lexel will be coming out with his own boost drivers soon that will run NarsilM. It should be able to do up to 3A at 12v or 6A at 6v.

So if your thinking about using an xhp35/50/70 I’d wait to see how big his drivers are, then choose a host it will fit in.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

contigo
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Last seen: 5 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 06/15/2016 - 17:17
Posts: 207

I am certainly not hating on Boruit, they make “good enough” lights for the normal flashoholic. However, even if the blinkies are hidden, a non-flashoholic can easily get flustered by accidentally getting to them. If this light was for my use, i would be fine with the hidden modes….but its not for my use.
My wife or my 11 yr old wont remember what the different clicks, rates of clicking, long clicks etc are.
The regular non flashlight interested person just go by simple clicks…..and ever time you click it gets brighter, in a round robin kind of way without blinkies coming in the way.
All im saying is that some lights dont have a simple fool proof UI, even if its simple to most or all of you. Not hating on boruit, just an opinion.

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