Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

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Agro
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Lightbringer wrote:
Agro wrote:
I’m yet to see non-AR coated lens with 95% efficiency. Let alone 97%. And AR-coated TIRs are extremely rare (for reasons that are unknown to me)

Umm, because they’re “total internal reflection” lenses? LOL

Seriously, it’d be hard to bulk AR-coat just the front surface and mask the rest of the lens. AR-coating the sides/back would be like poking holes in a bucket…


Nope, AR coating doesn’t change refraction angle. And so it doesn’t change the total internal reflection angle.
It just adds a layer (or several) with refraction index between that of air and of glass.
What happens with light that tries to escape glass at angle that would reflect off air when it hits AR coating layer instead?
2 cases:
  • either the angle is so high that it reflects anyway (but an angle that’s different from the one of uncoated)
  • or not, it just refracts

In the second case, the light hits air at much steeper angle and reflects. Then hits glass and refracts. Overall it travels at the same angle as if there would be no coating, but is shifted slightly.

Lightbringer
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I get what you’re saying, but something I remember reading a while ago about coatings on camera-lens glass, why some pieces are coated and others aren’t, seemed to imply that the coating did change the angle.

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Wildcat
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I found my measurement results. Indeed, with 21 mm TIR luminous flux falls relative to the reflector. probably due to the fact that part of the lens is overlapped by the edge of the bezel.

My numbers (these are not lumens, my sphere is not calibrated!)

17 mm TIR with glass – 412
Reflector with glass – 399
Reflector with glass ang 3M Magic scotch – 381
21 мм TIR without glass – 346

JasonWW
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TIR lenses are not all the same. Some are narrow focus and clear and might have less losses than a reflector. Some are wide focus and might be frosted or textured and have more losses than a reflector.

For my head mounted lights, I use this 60° textured lens.

I do get some losses, but it’s no big deal. All my headlights are more than bright enough to compensate since they are for close up work anyway.

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JasonWW
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JasonWW wrote:
I just did a few tests on this light using the JoshK sphere.

With a 30Q on high I got right at 650 lumen. Pretty impressive and very close to XM-L2 output.

With a 60° TIR lens in place I lost about 23% output. So now it’s reading about 500 lumen.


On this particular test I think I estimated the output drop using a different light.

So just to make sure I use the same headlamp and battery and then switch out the 60° TIR (including factory lens) with the original reflector I tested it again.

I also used my TA Tube lumen tester with a .65 .68 correction factor (this should be the correct one). I also used a fresh off the charger 30Q battery.

With reflector – 689 720 lumen
With TIR lens – 526 550 lumen

So we have a loss of 23.6% in output

I did the same measurements using two Eagle Eye X2R and got slightly less drops in output by switching to the 60 degree TIR lens. One light measured 18.5% and the other 20%.

All of these lights use the factory glass lens so the only thing that changed was the reflector for a plastic TIR optic.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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woodspoon
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Just got mine last night and am very happy with it. But it was so cheap so I thought I would try another one.

I like the style of the Skilhunt headlamp so I threw the similar looking Boruit EFL0867 in the cart. I will probably get some use out of it especially since my wife asked if she good keep the EHL0628 on her nightstand. I should of got 2 EHL0628’s. I also shoud have paid more attention to the modes, High/Middle/Strobe. This is what I saw…Switch Mode:High/Middle/Low. It is uncomfortable to read with and would destroy your night vision while camping. In conclusion I would recommend avoiding this one:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BORUiT-1000LM-XPL-V5-LED-Headlamp-Flashlight-3-Mode-Waterproof-Headlight-Camping-Hunting-Head-Torch-by/32829179112.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.29454c4dHsCX1Z

I see it spending most of its life in a drawer. If only it had Narsil UI it would be my new edc just be wearing a headlight at all times everywhere

edit-should have, not should of

p.p.s.-Sorry if I am way off the thread topic but I wanted to add I’ve been playing with ELF0867. About 6 fast clicks from off turns it into a one function light just Med. Which makes it more usable IMHO

p.p.ps. 3rd time is a charm right? Again sorry for being off topic, but I have to correct what I previously said. 6 fast clicks puts the light in a weird mode. One click lights the red switch only. 2nd click puts it in weird dim-brighten-dim-brighten…Is my battery failing? What the hell mode.

Boaz
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MascaratumB wrote:
Wildcat wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Wildcat, so that the Convoy TIRs fit, you had to cut them, right? Cause the ones I had didn’t fit, but if I file the edges they will probably fit.
Yes, you just need to file the edges that the TIR entered the bezel. With any 3535 LED (xp-g, xp-l, nichia 219, samsung lh351d) TIR rests directly in the star. It is only necessary to add an o-ring between the TIR and the bezel for tightness.

Thanks again Wildcat Wink Gonna test the difference between the TIR and the simple diffuser over the lens to see how it works and then check the one that will fit better on the healight!

Thanks for sharing Wink

I have 6 different types of diffuser film I’m selling these days and none of them plays well with this reflector .maybe it’s the emitter /reflector combo IDK .As a mule Dc-Fix works fine just not with the reflector . iIm going to drop in a Samsung h351D anyway so i’ll let you know if it’s the reflector or the emitter . I bought this light thinking it was a stepless ramping like the boruit R2 has with no PWM . It’s NOT a smooth stepless ramping light . It JUMPS thru modes when you hold the button down . Chinese descriptions are never very helpful and like garrybunk says . the User interface is a bit hard to describe . it’s really rather simple and it doesn’t deserve all the stupid hate it received from members here on this thread (all of which don’t own the light ) user interface isn’t a smooth ramp and ..doesn’t suck .

I love the light and think besides the Skillhunt H03 this is one of the best cheap headlamps out there .

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

bansuri
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I had ordered 2 and have been using one at work with great success. Don’t mind the stock emitter’s tint because my whole shop is coated in oil and coolant so it just makes it pretty.
The one I keep at home finally got an emitter upgrade with an XM-L2 U3 3D on Noctigon 20mm. Replaced the 2 wires to MCPCB with teflon coated.

Note: the solder points on the switch side of the board need to be trimmed very close to the board or they will short out against the button retaining ring when you screw it together.
It’s anodized, but why risk it? You can test by simply placing the retaining ring against the assembly and verify that they aren’t dragging on it.

Such an amazing light for the money.

mobydimk
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Using it for night fishing, very comfortable light. No cons, except emitter. It must be swapped with warmer, stock cool white is not suitable in foggy weather.

bansuri
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Wildcat, thanks for the Convoy tip!
My Convoy optics arrived and after testing I decided it must be permanent.
After sanding the sides of the optic I also wallowed out the inside of the bezel to allow the shoulder of the optic to rest on it.
Bonus was that there is a groove on the inside of the bezel that I was able to slip the o-ring into to keep the optic in place and give it some water resistance.
Didn’t need to adjust the height of the optic, sits just perfect and has a little downward pressure on the MCPCB. I left the reflector centering guide in.
The beam is much more usable for closer work and there are no sharp demarcations between hotspot and spill, or any rings around the outer edge.
Pictures can explain better than me:

This shows how the o-ring sits:

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garrybunk wrote:
Well after over a month of waiting I finally received my order from KD containing DTP XP boards! I reflowed a Nichia 219C onto a 20mm board and swapped it in. I accidentally broke the ends of those short emitter wires off when I was breaking the old pcb loose, so I soldered and heatshrink wrapped some extensions on them (would have needed to do anyway). I did have to file down the side of the KD pcb to fit it by the wires. It all worked out well (finally a mod that went fairly well). For now I only have the stock reflector in it, but expect to try a TIR optic at a later time. I will run it through my sphere again very soon and post those numbers.

Some photos:
My extension wires soldered on:

Heat shrink wrapped:

KD DTP board fit, filed edge at wires:

Soldered up;

Put back together:

Beamshot (cell phone camera):

Beamshot comparison with cool white Zanflare F1 on the right (cell phone camera):

-Garry


I had a 219C 5000K laying around from another light, on a 16mm mcpcb, so I swapped it in like you. I only needed to extend one wire. It works and looks great under a 60° TIR lens.

Output on high went down from 495 lm to 330 lm. (Maukka calibrated TA Lumen Tube) I’ve got more than enough brightness to handle the close-up type work I use it for such as soldering and automotive repair. It’s the perfect little light now. Thumbs Up

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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garrybunk
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I haven’t touched this light since. I really need to get a TIR in mine!

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
JasonWW
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Mtn electronics has them.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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wstrachan
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I saw this some time ago and bought one. since, I have bought 3 more. This really is a good headlamp for around $11! I just tried to find a couple more for friends and can hardly find them anywhere.
Does anyone know where to get them other than Aliexpress?

light addict....yeah I've got the bug.

Atrolux MF02_O2S
Imalent DT70
Emissar (All Models)
Lumintop ODL20C
Wuben A21 & T70
thrunite tn32 ut
acebeam k60
many, many others...

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wstrachan wrote:
I saw this some time ago and bought one. since, I have bought 3 more. This really is a good headlamp for around $11! I just tried to find a couple more for friends and can hardly find them anywhere. Does anyone know where to get them other than Aliexpress?

Banggood seems to sell a version of this Boruit EHL0628 but is known as the Xanes D10 headlamp. I haven’t tried ordering from BG so I’m not sure if it’s exactly the same or they just look the same (based on the item description and usage operation and the pictures posted). I got the EHL0628 from their official store in AliExpress.

Toneloc
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Do u have the specs for a boruit rj3000 headlamp

Flail
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I finally got around to changing the LED and optics in my EHL0628 (XP-L ON 16mm copper and TIR).
I didn’t want to solder an extension to the wire so I took off the driver and soldered longer wires directly to it. I took the chance to shoot some photos.
Note that this is the old version bought almost a year ago, the new version has a new UI (with stepless dimming).
[Edit: Sorry, no new version and no new UI. I misunderstood the phrase “stepless dimming” (I’m not a native English speaker)]

Charging circuit:

Looks like two TP4057 chips in parallel.

The driver:

A quick guess would be that the unmarked SO-8 IC is an MCU that is providing PWM to switch two transistors (SOT-23-3 chips) through current limiting resistors (the 3 1ohms in parallel).

The two boards are separated by a plastic spacer (sorry about the quality, took this one with my phone’s camera):

Wildcat
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New UI? Stepless dimming? When?Where? Wink

JasonWW
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This D10 has only had one UI as far as I remember.

Stepless dimming = 5 steps – LOL

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Flail
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Flail
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Guys, do you think that there is no new UI? You think the sellers just misinterpreted “stepless dimming”?
Because if that is the case, I’d like to edit my post to reflect this, as not to mislead people.

garrybunk
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Well it has “stepless dimming”, but that is via press-n-hold, while the “normal operation” (simple click and let go) goes through two modes. Is this how yours operates?

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
Flail
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Mine works exactly like yours.
But I thought “stepless dimming” means that the PWM can be ramped, E.G. like the Boruit RJ-02.

5 steps via press-and-hold are still steps, aren’t they?
Now I’m confused… Facepalm

JasonWW
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“Stepless dimming” is literally the 5 different brightness levels. It is not like ramping or like the RJ02. It’s misleading, but no big deal.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Flail
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Thanks to both of you for clarifying, I edited my post.

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Yes the stepless dimming is NOT what you think it is . It's a pure poor translation on their part and has confused everyone who ever entered this thread .

 It isn't a bad User interface and it's pretty simple to use .

  • first click is medium mode…. so from Medium you have 5 basic options 
  • #1 wait a second or two and click again to OFF..so- [ med...then WAIT ….OFF]
  • #2 don't wait at all and make a second quick click to high.....so - [ click click is med. then  high .]
  • #3  CLICK CLICK CLICK ... med / high / off /...bang bang bang /simple as pie . 3 normal clicks .
  • #4 Click the light on to medium … and then  holding down the button will cause the light to start cycling thru the lights 5 modes.(downward)~ med/low/moon?/high/not-so-high/med/low/notreallya moon/high/ etc etc etc .  cycling works from any mode if you hold the button down .
  • #5 Two fast clicks from any mode/even from off ...takes you into nasty Strobe /two more fast clicks into SOS mode /and two more into a nice slow beacon mode .

 

       καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν

                            

       Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

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Thanks, Boaz!

FIAT LUX!

CarbonCrew
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I got my D10s direct from Boruit just this week. It’s a fantastic little light. I got a few as spares for modding and I’ll be putting an order in with MTN today for a TIR 60.

I’d like to grab a few warm LEDs on 20mm boards. Should I go with the Nichia 219C or LH351D? Will the stock driver be capable of driving both? Thanks for the input.

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@CarbonCrew, if you want more flood/a bit more lumens than the 219C, get the LH351D.

If you want more throw and even better color rendition, I would advise buying the SST-20 4000k from Kaidomain.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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@blueswordm Perfect. I think I’ll an SST-20 as well. 3000k with 95+ cri sounds great.

Can anyone advise me on removing the driver? I’ve got the threaded retaining ring out and have exposed the driver. I’m afraid to mash on it too hard. Does it thread in?

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