1100 lumen 16340 klarus Mi1C Resistor Mod

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moderator007
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1100 lumen 16340 klarus Mi1C Resistor Mod

Most people already probably know how to do resistor mods. Since this is a fairly new light I thought I might show others how easy it is to mod this new light. I have both the cooper version and the titanium, this mod works on both and maybe the aluminum version if its the same driver.
This light is tiny compared to all my other 16340 flashlights especially since it has a side e-switch. Amazing they got all parts necessary to fit in such a tiny light. Its smaller than my ITP A1 EOS which is the smallest 16340 light I own, and its a twisty.


So on with the mod. First you will remove battery and battery tube. On the driver battery side it has a black plastic retainer with 2 small holes in it. Take your time here and use needle nose pliers or whatever you use but keep the tips very shallow in the holes. The driver components are right below this retainer. If you go to deep or force the retainer out you will twist off components on the board and brick your driver. Now unscrew the bezel once the retainer is out, I used a pair of short needle nose pliers stuck down in 2 of the 4 notches on the bezel spreading the pliers apart fitting the notches. Be careful here and keep pressure outward and twist counter clock wise. Mine was not glued and came apart easily. Now unsolder the little ground wire and both led connections, unscrew the screw holding down the ground wire terminal and don’t loose the terminal. The led mcpcb should come right out and has very little thermal paste on it or mine did. Now take a small screwdriver and push on the wires a little and maybe the board, but don’t force it, it should come out fairly easy.
Once its out flip the driver over on the spring side. You are looking for the resistor marked R050.


In the pic above you will need to solder on another R050 resistor on top of the original one. The light draws 1.5 amps factory. Half the resistance doubles the current. Mine draws 3 amps with the piggy backed resistor. Best I can tell the formula would be 75 divide by your target current in milliamps. 75/3000ma = .o25 ohms. Now time to put everything back together. Be careful and take your time. The driver will only go in one way with the switch lined up with the button. Good luck modding.

At 3 amps it gets hot within 3o seconds and seems like some batteries can’t keep up because it will step down from turbo to high within a few seconds with some batteries I have tried. Might be better to be conservative and use a resistor that gets you closer to 2.5 amps or so. This light is suppose to have thermal regulation but with a good battery it gets so hot I don’t wanna hold it any longer so I have to turn it off.

Klarus sales ad:
“Newest Intelligent Temperature protection System(ITS) monitors internal temperature and adjusts output to regulate heat dissipation; protects LED and internal components for perfect balance of output and safety.” Facepalm

Edited by: moderator007 on 02/04/2018 - 12:54
Jiffy
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This sounds a great mod. Any chance of getting the pics working?

ssschen
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Jiffy wrote:
This sounds a great mod. Any chance of getting the pics working?

Second this. Would love to see some photos of the mod.

MascaratumB
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ssschen wrote:
Jiffy wrote:
This sounds a great mod. Any chance of getting the pics working?

Second this. Would love to see some photos of the mod.

+1 here! I haven’t been able to see moderator007 pictures on the last threads, presenting some mods Sad

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moderator007
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Sorry guys I had no idea the pics were not working. I linked them thru google photos. They show up on my end, so it looks fine to me. Facepalm
I’ll see if I can fix it, might need some help letting me know if the new pics work.

moderator007
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Can you see both pics now?

sp5it
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Second one only.

When you’re born you get a ticket to the freak show. When you’re born in America, you get a front-row seat.

 

moderator007
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I just created a imgur account for hosting photos. I’m really upset about photobucket holding my older pics for ransom. Google photos seems to have problems sharing on forums from what I googled.
Does both pics show up now?

ssschen
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moderator007 wrote:
I just created a imgur account for hosting photos. I’m really upset about photobucket holding my older pics for ransom. Google photos seems to have problems sharing on forums from what I googled. Does both pics show up now?

Yes, I can see both photos now. Thanks Big Smile

moderator007
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Thanks for letting me know ssschen. Thumbs Up

Bruno28
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do you have a comparison photo between the stock and the modded? Would be interesting to see.

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Bruno28 wrote:
do you have a comparison photo between the stock and the modded? Would be interesting to see.

I guess your referring to a beam shot pic. I dont have any at the moment but I have some Efest IMR 16340’s on the way that are rated for 5 to 7 amps continuous (depends on the seller). So I’ll wait until I have those to use. I have several of the top rated 16340 batteries from HKJ’s comparator but none work good at a 3 amp load, to much battery sag. Seems they haven’t really designed a high current 16340 yet that I could find. The driver I’m pretty sure has a low voltage step down, so when the battery sags below say 3v the driver steps down to high, thinking the battery is depleted but its not (to much voltage sag).

The best I found by description was the Efest IMR 700mah (red) or the Imren IMR 700mah (blue). They haven’t been tested by HKJ yet or anywhere else I could find, so I’m not sure what their going to do, but I do plan on testing the Efest 700’s when I receive them. I noticed they were popular with the vape sites, so that’s a good sign since that’s a high current device. I may buy some Imren’s to try also. Probably just the same battery given their both 700mah Imr’s.

moderator007
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I tested the Efest IMR16340 700mah(red) and there no better than the klarus LIR16340(red) or the fenix ARB L16-700. They all dive pretty quick in voltage at a 3amp load. I get around 300mah at about 6 minutes out of any of the 3 at a 3v cut-off. Trustfire seems to be about the best 16340 at the moment from HKJ’s testing, I got four on the slow boat to try next.

CRX
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Nice Mod Thumbs Up
The Yellow AWT 16340 cells are great, I’ve been using them for a while now whereas the red TF cells were good at first some failed quite fast at high draw. YMMV.

Agro
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What is the resistor size?
EDIT:
Far smaller than 2512 that I have here :/
1206?

moderator007
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Agro wrote:
What is the resistor size?
EDIT:
Far smaller than 2512 that I have here :/
1206?

1206
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CRX wrote:
Nice Mod Thumbs Up The Yellow AWT 16340 cells are great, I've been using them for a while now whereas the red TF cells were good at first some failed quite fast at high draw. YMMV.

This one CRX?

 

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That’s them.

moderator007
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Ordered 3 to try out. Thumbs Up

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CRX wrote:
… whereas the red TF cells were good at first some failed quite fast at high draw. YMMV.

Interesting insight. Me and a friend recently hairdryer rewrapped a couple TrustFire IMR14500s and seems like the heat killed 'em. Quite disturbing. 

 

Cheers Smile

Agro
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moderator007 wrote:
Agro wrote:
What is the resistor size?
EDIT:
Far smaller than 2512 that I have here :/
1206?

1206

Thanks.
I was careful unscrewing the plastic, but nevertheless I slipped and ripped some resistor and some other element.
It’s funny to see strobe running with moonlight level ^^.

OK, will have to repair. But first another question:
Without split ring pliers, what’s the best way to unscrew the bezel?
I tried tweezzers, couldn’t do it. I tried friction, didn’t work either.
I can glue it to something and then polish the glue off but that’s quite a lot of work…

moderator007
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You just need a cheap blunt nose set of needle nose pliers usually a dollar at most hardware stores.
The nose is rounded except where the pliers contact, it’s ground in a D shape. They fit in the round slots on the bezel.
.

.
A cheap pair of these should work fine with a blunt nose.
.

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Beading-Pliers-Tool-Kit-Set-Jewelery-Design-Bent-Nose-Cutting-Needle/162575785598

Bought model 359A a few months ago, tip diameter is less than 1mm. Handy and sturdy enough. 

 

Cheers 

Agro
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Managed to unscrew the bezel with a grinding stone. Pressed the bezel hard against the stone and the friction was enough.
Unsoldered leads, no problem. Couldn’t unsolder the ground though. Too little power? I use a large screwdriver type bit, 410 °C, 50W iron. Is the iron too weak?
I weakened the connection, moved the wire a bit to the side with the iron and then cut with a knife.

I re-soldered one of the elements that I ripped off. Now I think it was not a resistor but a capacitor. That thing is TINY.
I moved the other into place – it seems I bent the legs, but haven’t broke them (not sure).

What is the simplest way to test if it works now?

Agro
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According to my plastic calipers the lens is 13.1 mm.
I wonder if we can find AR coated replacement…

moderator007
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Agro wrote:
According to my plastic calipers the lens is 13.1 mm.
I wonder if we can find AR coated replacement…

I don’t know if you will find one in that size but this one could be sanded down to fit.
.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001022/5422711-14mm-ar-coated-glas...
.
I just sanded down a lens the other day to fit my triple xpl DQG 4th because I couldn’t find the size I needed.
moderator007
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CRX wrote:
Nice Mod Thumbs Up
The Yellow AWT 16340 cells are great, I’ve been using them for a while now whereas the red TF cells were good at first some failed quite fast at high draw. YMMV.

Best 16340 batteries I have tried so far. I ran a 3 amp test on them and I got 400mah to 3v. Would have been more if I had lowered the cut off voltage to 2.7v. Thanks for the recommendation CRX. Thumbs Up
.
I still have some trustfires on the way to test when they get off the slow boat.
Agro
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moderator007 wrote:
Agro wrote:
According to my plastic calipers the lens is 13.1 mm.
I wonder if we can find AR coated replacement…

I don’t know if you will find one in that size but this one could be sanded down to fit.
.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001022/5422711-14mm-ar-coated-glas...
.
I just sanded down a lens the other day to fit my triple xpl DQG 4th because I couldn’t find the size I needed.

Thanks, but this light has only a plano-convex lens.
I failed to find any AR-coated one that could fit. Though I may try harder at some point….
moderator007
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Agro wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
Agro wrote:
According to my plastic calipers the lens is 13.1 mm.
I wonder if we can find AR coated replacement…

I don’t know if you will find one in that size but this one could be sanded down to fit.
.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001022/5422711-14mm-ar-coated-glas...
.
I just sanded down a lens the other day to fit my triple xpl DQG 4th because I couldn’t find the size I needed.

Thanks, but this light has only a plano-convex lens.
I failed to find any AR-coated one that could fit. Though I may try harder at some point….

I’m guessing you have the aluminum version. The Ti and Cu version has a reflector with a AR coated glass lens.
CRX
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moderator007 wrote:
CRX wrote:
Nice Mod Thumbs Up The Yellow AWT 16340 cells are great, I’ve been using them for a while now whereas the red TF cells were good at first some failed quite fast at high draw. YMMV.
Best 16340 batteries I have tried so far. I ran a 3 amp test on them and I got 400mah to 3v. Would have been more if I had lowered the cut off voltage to 2.7v. Thanks for the recommendation CRX. Thumbs Up . I still have some trustfires on the way to test when they get off the slow boat.

Cool, would be nice to see how the TF performs too Thumbs Up

Agro
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moderator007 wrote:
Agro wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
Agro wrote:
According to my plastic calipers the lens is 13.1 mm.
I wonder if we can find AR coated replacement…

I don’t know if you will find one in that size but this one could be sanded down to fit.
.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001022/5422711-14mm-ar-coated-glas...
.
I just sanded down a lens the other day to fit my triple xpl DQG 4th because I couldn’t find the size I needed.

Thanks, but this light has only a plano-convex lens.
I failed to find any AR-coated one that could fit. Though I may try harder at some point….

I’m guessing you have the aluminum version. The Ti and Cu version has a reflector with a AR coated glass lens.

Yeah, I have Al. It’s uncoated plastic. I’ll see, if I get deeper into this light I may get a Cu/Ti one or ask Klarus if the are willing to sell me a coated one.
Thanks for the good news.

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