The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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xevious
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jeff51 wrote:
I’ve got an SP70 with the 70.2 LED. I really like it.
It’s big and heavy and clunky.
If I was going on and extended S&R type of thing (which I never will I suspect).
It’s the one I would grab.
PWM is so fast you will never see it. Like 19K if I remember.

Being able to turn the light off with the side switch is a big plus over, say, the L6.

The only thing I don’t like is the position of the front strap attachment.
It’s right in front of the switch. The clip folds back and blocks the switch.
Also it makes the light front heavy. So carrying by the strap, slowly the light dips toward the ground.

Move the front connection point closer to the font fixes this.
Wish is was available in a warmer color. Warm works better for me outside.

Thanks for sharing your experience with the SP70, Jeff. I decided I’m going to wait on getting one. The only use I’d have of it is on a few occasions during the summer. My other lights handle everything else just fine during the rest of the year. It is good to see a solid neutral white emitter now provided. I may try to pick up one on discount at the end of the year.
Artiet59
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xevious wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
Im new to flashlights and own a few.

What are the differences in drivers used in todays hi powered lights. I see FET, buck, boost, I don’t know what any of them mean, and why sometimes one is used over another. Help?

Are you new to Google too? Wink
Simple search took me all of 15 secs to find a few sites to help explain:

Flashlight WIKI Drivers

Reddit – Drivers – boost, buck, linear, FET, direct?

HTH


Thanks. no I’m not new to google.. I did try googling information but still couldn’t find anything that helped me understand the concept. I appreciate the information. Just figured I could get more direct info from the good people on blf.

I am new to this. All help is welcome.

Artiet59
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JasonWW wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
Im new to flashlights and own a few.

What are the differences in drivers used in todays hi powered lights. I see FET, buck, boost, I don’t know what any of them mean, and why sometimes one is used over another. Help?


Wow, for some reason I did not see your post. Try this thread. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/33820

Thank you!

I am new to this. All help is welcome.

BaronVonEissler
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JasonWW wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:
I have One Emisar light. The K1 SBT90.2. Great light.

Question: How come no where on the light OR the box is Emisar inscribed? Never had a light where the manufacturer left that info. off of their product.


It’s technically not an Emisar, it’s a Noctigon. Hank at Intl-outdoor is behind both brands.

Thanks.

I guess all the information we hear is not correct. I read on one of these threads that it was an Emisar.

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Unheard
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ryukin2000 wrote:
i have an LD01 that works Intermittently. the outer ring on the driver where the body makes contact when twisted seems to look scratched up. is it possible that this can wear down and prevent it working? how would one restore it? thanks.

The Jetbeam-II also has its driver glued but there’s a very thin brass washer. If rubbed-off copper is actually the problem, I’d see if I can find such a washer or a sheet of brass foil to make one.
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BaronVonEissler wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
BaronVonEissler wrote:
I have One Emisar light. The K1 SBT90.2. Great light.

Question: How come no where on the light OR the box is Emisar inscribed? Never had a light where the manufacturer left that info. off of their product.


It’s technically not an Emisar, it’s a Noctigon. Hank at Intl-outdoor is behind both brands.

Thanks.

I guess all the information we hear is not correct. I read on one of these threads that it was an Emisar.


There is a whole complicated situation when it comes to Chinese manufacturers of flashlights. This is why you see clones and more than one version of the same light. Hank has his company and he decided to use two brand names to distinguish two different lines of lights. Emisar and Noctigon. He did the Noctigon Meteor several years ago (2016 I think), but all his lights since then were the Emisar brand. So folks tend to associate all his lights as Emisar and he just recently decided to release the K1 under the Noctigon brand. People know it’s from the “guy that does the Emisars” and it has the same user interface as the Emisars so you can see how people might confuse it with an Emisar.

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richbuff
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 "... .... .... He did the Noctigon Meteor several years ago (2016 I think) ... ... ..."

Noctigon Meteor M43 was late Winter 2015, as far as I can narrow it down. My hopefully not so stupid question: Can I get mine modded (again) from XP-L to W2 emitters?

It has been one year since an Arlington police officer defended himself against a loose, charging dog. In this case, someone other than the dogs' owner did Not reap the initial tragic consequences. Usually it is an innocent victim that gets it.

 

hinbli
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I am checking out Nichia 219B SW45K R9080. The setup is Noctigon 3UP MCPCB with Carclo 10507. My battery charger can be used as the power supply, so it is the source of the power. It does not have PWM. I am doing this just to see how it is before putting it into the light.

Is there like burn-in or break-in periods for the new LED?

On the first time ever power up, I saw huge amount of pink, as noted everywhere for this LED. I thought it could have been little bit too pink. However, I played with it for a while. It settled into very nice white with less pink.

I am thinking I just got used to the new tint because this is my first time seeing SW45K in person. But, my experiences with E21A 4500K with R9080 and 219B 4500K R9050 do not show something like of burn-in or break-in.

I only used 3.0A (1.0A each). All three of them appeared to show the same brightness. The MCPCB was mounted on the heatsink. I don’t think the LED’s are burning up literally, not the tint turning into violet.

Have you experienced anything like this? I still think it is my imagination.

BurningPlayd0h
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hinbli wrote:
I am checking out Nichia 219B SW45K R9080. The setup is Noctigon 3UP MCPCB with Carclo 10507. My battery charger can be used as the power supply, so it is the source of the power. It does not have PWM. I am doing this just to see how it is before putting it into the light.

Is there like burn-in or break-in periods for the new LED?

On the first time ever power up, I saw huge amount of pink, as noted everywhere for this LED. I thought it could have been little bit too pink. However, I played with it for a while. It settled into very nice white with less pink.

I am thinking I just got used to the new tint because this is my first time seeing SW45K in person. But, my experiences with E21A 4500K with R9080 and 219B 4500K R9050 do not show something like of burn-in or break-in.

I only used 3.0A (1.0A each). All three of them appeared to show the same brightness. The MCPCB was mounted on the heatsink. I don’t think the LED’s are burning up literally, not the tint turning into violet.

Have you experienced anything like this? I still think it is my imagination.

Color perception is very relative. The same LEDs will look completely different when the background light is noon sunlight vs incandescent lightbulbs for instance.

hank
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News Release 28-Jun-2020
Declining eyesight improved by looking at deep red light 650 to 1000nm

Peer-reviewed | experimental study | people

University College London

=====================

Does anyone have a source for a far red LED light? around 650 to 1000nm ; this research used 670nm

https://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2020-06/ucl-dei062620.php

Quote:
All participants were then given a small LED torch to take home and were asked to look into* its deep red 670nm light beam for three minutes a day for two weeks. They were then re-tested for their rod and cone sensitivity

Results

Researchers found the 670nm light had no impact in younger individuals, but in those around 40 years and over, significant improvements were obtained.

Cone colour contrast sensitivity (the ability to detect colours) improved by up to 20% in some people aged around 40 and over. Improvements were more significant in the blue part of the colour spectrum that is more vulnerable in ageing.

===============

Rayoui
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hank wrote:
Does anyone have a source for a far red LED light? around 650 to 1000nm ; this research used 670nm

Samsung produces some 3535 deep red LEDs in 660nm and 730nm.

660nm
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SPHR...

730nm
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SPHR...

May be pretty difficult to drive the 730nm with a standard LED driver as the forward voltage is very low.

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Hank, since there is a “grandma light” being developed, maybe you could start an “over the hill light” for all the old and blind folks.

Helen Keller:
The only thing worse than being blind is having sight but no vision.

hank
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Hmmm, the necessary must be out there somewhere.
Good point about finding the appropriate driver — thank you.

Here’s a very pricey far red “healing” light
https://redlightman.com/product/red-mini-670/

This source sells 660nm LEDs https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32909044308.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0...

Ah, here’s one on a board:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000166227284.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist...

Quote:
Voltage: 2-2.4V Current: 700MA Diameter: 20MM Wavelength: 660NM

And a fully assembled flashlight:
Seaconch Red Therapy Light 9W Infrared Lamp Maximum Irradiance 660 Nm Led Pain 630nm 5 Minute Timer Red Light Therapy
US $62.90

hank
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Ah, Luxeon’s on it:

Quote:
LUXEON Rebel Color Portfolio Provides Leading in-Application Performance – New Deep Red 650-670 nm LED Demand for colored LEDs is on the rise and the LUXEON Rebel color portfolio performance is increasing and new colors are being added to the family. ‘Deep Red’, the most recent color added to the portfolio, delivers light in the 650-670 nanometer range. This wavelength range is essential for horticultural applications and is required by some governments around the world for applications like road and railway signaling.

https://www.led-professional.com/products/leds_led_modules/luxeon-rebel-...

Now, to find a driver ….

hank
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hmmmm —- red 670nm laser, pretty cheap
http://www.aixiz.com/store/product_info.php/products_id/312
670nm 5mW laser module 3VDC adj. lens 670 nm $6.50

Apparently has a driver. Or else is running on straight 3V, a couple of batteries?
Not tht I’d want to point this straight into my eyeballs, of course. Maybe diffused or reflector-bounced off a white board ….

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Thank you Scallywag, now i don’t feel so dumb anymore Thumbs Up

Scallywag wrote:
SST20 is a small, throwy LED available at 5000K and below, and in high CRI below 5000K. To my knowledge, the 70CRI versions out-throw XPL-HI despite being domed. SST40 is a large LED capable of very high output (over 2000 lumens at like 6+ amps). It’s not available below 5000K nor in high CRI. It’s a floody LED due to its size, but gets used in throwers due to sheer output and compromise of lumens vs. throw.
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sochi111 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

SST-40 is just a bigger led so it has the potential for higher output. I know the FT03 is a great budget thrower using the SST-40. It will be brighter with more throw than both the lights you mention.

I dont know about that store. Why would you buy from them instead of from Convoy direct?

JasonWW, Thanks for the suggestions, will check out FT03

.

I read up on the FT03. Pretty sweet thrower, It’s made by Bangwood, and I think it was a year ago when I promised myself to stay away from them. Still waiting for my package.

Would it be a dumb thing to pass on it and find a different thrower somewhere else?

JasonWW
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sochi111 wrote:

I read up on the FT03. Pretty sweet thrower, It’s made by Banggood and I think it was a year ago when I promised myself to stay away from them. Still waiting for my package.

Would it be a dumb thing to pass on it and find a different thrower somewhere else?


There are other stores selling the FT03, like on Aliexpress for $50 ish, but you don’t get the good coupon code.

You can also find the same light as a Mateminco MT35 on Aliexpress. It’s about $40 ish depending on the bezel you want. That’s probably your best bet.

Then you don’t have to deal with Banggood, but you still take risks from using a store your not familiar with.

I dont know your situation from Banggood, but if the shipping takes a few months, ask for a refund. Sometimes packages get lost, then later found and get delivered. It sucks, but at some point in time, like 3 months, it needs to be declared lost and you refunded. Of course businesses do not like giving refunds and Banggood will hassle you a bit (some people get discouraged and give up which means the store saves money), but you just stick with it and demand a refund.

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hank wrote:
hmmmm —- red 670nm laser, pretty cheap
http://www.aixiz.com/store/product_info.php/products_id/312
670nm 5mW laser module 3VDC adj. lens 670 nm $6.50

Apparently has a driver. Or else is running on straight 3V, a couple of batteries?
Not tht I’d want to point this straight into my eyeballs, of course. Maybe diffused or reflector-bounced off a white board ….

I wouldn’t even do that. If your diffuser burns through – or the intensity of the laser just degrades it to be a bit less diffuse – then you end up lasering your retina.

Even the reflector idea is iffy. All it takes is an accidental mis-point reflecting off something shiny.

To be honest, I’m really looking askance at this whole idea of deliberately shining DIY lights of any kind into your eyes. I’d leave that sort of idea to medical device designers if I were you.

le cigare volant
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I understand why people enjoy warm emitters with a high CRI, but what application does a 6500K light have? Lets say a D4V2 – what would be the motivation to get a 6000K-6500K emitter version?

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le cigare volant wrote:
I understand why people enjoy warm emitters with a high CRI, but what application does a 6500K light have? Lets say a D4V2 – what would be the motivation to get a 6000K-6500K emitter version?

People that think single percentage point increases in output are noticeable and/or mistake eye strain as being “brighter”.

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le cigare volant wrote:
I understand why people enjoy warm emitters with a high CRI, but what application does a 6500K light have? Lets say a D4V2 – what would be the motivation to get a 6000K-6500K emitter version?

A lot of folks associate warm or neutral color leds for being crappy, old, incandescent looking. While the cool white colors are modern, fresh leds. It’s why cars come in different colors. People have different preferences. On top of that, not everyone sees the same. Color perception varies from person to person.

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le cigare volant wrote:
I understand why people enjoy warm emitters with a high CRI, but what application does a 6500K light have? Lets say a D4V2 – what would be the motivation to get a 6000K-6500K emitter version?

To annoy people, and to attract bugs.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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I am loving my https://www.reylight.net/product/reylight-pineapple-copper-limited-edition/ with 4000K Nichia 219C high CRI.

Are all 4000k 219C made the same or is there a tint lottery?

If I want to try something warmer along the same lines, would the 3500k E21A be a good choice or are there others I should look at?

- the best way to predict the future is to create it -

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lazerEagle wrote:
I am loving my https://www.reylight.net/product/reylight-pineapple-copper-limited-edition/ with 4000K Nichia 219C high CRI.

Are all 4000k 219C made the same or is there a tint lottery?

If I want to try something warmer along the same lines, would the 3500k E21A be a good choice or are there others I should look at?

There is definitely some tint lottery with 219Cs, but many manufacturers source good bins.

E21A would be an upgrade in many ways (assuming you mean a quad in the KR4?). Better tint and better coloring rendering, plus a bit warmer which it sounds like you want. 3000K and 2700K SST-20s are very nice too, but that’s even warmer.

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SST-20 is very nice in 3500K.

Folomov C2 with E21A, 3000K

Sofirn C01S with SST-20, 3500K

sochi111
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JasonWW wrote:
sochi111 wrote:

Would it be a dumb thing to pass on it and find a different thrower somewhere else?


There are other stores selling the FT03, like on Aliexpress for $50 ish, but you don’t get the good coupon code.

You can also find the same light as a Mateminco MT35 on Aliexpress. It’s about $40 ish depending on the bezel you want. That’s probably your best bet.

Then you don’t have to deal with Banggood, but you still take risks from using a store your not familiar with.

I dont know your situation from Banggood, but if the shipping takes a few months, ask for a refund. Sometimes packages get lost, then later found and get delivered. It sucks, but at some point in time, like 3 months, it needs to be declared lost and you refunded. Of course businesses do not like giving refunds and Banggood will hassle you a bit (some people get discouraged and give up which means the store saves money), but you just stick with it and demand a refund.

It did ask for a refund over and over but they refused , because their “tracking showed delivered”, and I couldn’t get my money back from PPal as well. Someone here mentioned that they play games with reusing tracking numbers and that way if it gets lost they are not responsible. Could be bad luck but it left me with a bitter aftertaste.

JasonWW
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sochi111 wrote:

It did ask for a refund over and over but they refused , because their “tracking showed delivered”, and I couldn’t get my money back from PPal as well. Someone here mentioned that they play games with reusing tracking numbers and that way if it gets lost they are not responsible. Could be bad luck but it left me with a bitter aftertaste.


Was the delivered address correct? If not, then you should have a case. If the tracking number still shows an older delivery, they may have given you the wrong number. Again, that should be their fault. They cant say it got “delivered” and the delivery address not be yours. I assumed you plugged the tracking number into at least 2 or 3 tracking services. Sometimes one tracking service is not up to date.

I don’t know what country your in, but I know some countries can be really bad with foreign deliveries.

All tracking numbers get reused so that person is probably not aware of that and assumed it was something malicious.

I never had a tracking problem with them, but I’m in the US. Then again, I dont always check the tracking unless it hasn’t shown up within 3 or 4 weeks.

I can understand if you feel screwed over. Astrolux is Banggoods house brand, but if they use Mateminco to build it, Mateminco will sometimes do their own version. It’s exactly the same product, just a different brand and sold in different stores.

I forget what you were originally looking for, but I think it was a med size thrower? There are definitely other lights out there around the same size as the FT03, but they are more basic or else cost more. FT03/MT35 gives you a lot for your money. I’m sure there are threads on mid size throwers here.

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Thanks Unheard and BurningPlayd0h.

- the best way to predict the future is to create it -

sochi111
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JasonWW][quote=sochi111 wrote:

I don’t know what country your in, but I know some countries can be really bad with foreign deliveries.

All tracking numbers get reused so that person is probably not aware of that and assumed it was something malicious.

I never had a tracking problem with them, but I’m in the US. Then again, I dont always check the tracking unless it hasn’t shown up within 3 or 4 weeks.

I can understand if you feel screwed over. Astrolux is Banggoods house brand, but if they use Mateminco to build it, Mateminco will sometimes do their own version. It’s exactly the same product, just a different brand and sold in different stores.

I forget what you were originally looking for, but I think it was a med size thrower? There are definitely other lights out there around the same size as the FT03, but they are more basic or else cost more. FT03/MT35 gives you a lot for your money. I’m sure there are threads on mid size throwers here.

The address was correct, I was looking for a thrower that would fit in a C8 holster or something similar.
Will check out the threads. Thank you again and I really appreciate your time.

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