The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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richbuff
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le cigare volant wrote:
Searched pretty well and coudn't find this question asked yet: Whats the purpose of frosting the center of a 3-up or 4-up optic? How does it affect the beam?

Less beam artifacts/smoother beam transitions. 

Think of how hostile the average surface of the earth is, and realize half of the surface of the earth is more hostile than that.

 

mitsuki08
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I have a question for those who sand down TIR optics to fit in lights because I sanded mine down to fit into a D10 and it resulted in having a donut hole. How do you guys remedy that or is it now a lost cause?

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mitsuki08 wrote:
I have a question for those who sand down TIR optics to fit in lights because I sanded mine down to fit into a D10 and it resulted in having a donut hole. How do you guys remedy that or is it now a lost cause?

Hmm, I’ve never heard of that happening. What optic was it, a narrow angle one? I tend to use wide angle ones for close up work. Those usually have a pebble texture finish. You might try raising or lowering the optic to see if that changes the focus.

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mitsuki08
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JasonWW wrote:
mitsuki08 wrote:
I have a question for those who sand down TIR optics to fit in lights because I sanded mine down to fit into a D10 and it resulted in having a donut hole. How do you guys remedy that or is it now a lost cause?
Hmm, I’ve never heard of that happening. What optic was it, a narrow angle one? I tend to use wide angle ones for close up work. Those usually have a pebble texture finish. You might try raising or lowering the optic to see if that changes the focus.

It was a 60 degree pebbled lens. Similar to this one. . There isn’t a lot of clearance to raise/lower the optic. I wanted to leave the glass lens there since I made the mistake of shaving the diameter a bit too much and is not making a prefect seal in terms of waterproofing.

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mitsuki08 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
mitsuki08 wrote:
I have a question for those who sand down TIR optics to fit in lights because I sanded mine down to fit into a D10 and it resulted in having a donut hole. How do you guys remedy that or is it now a lost cause?
Hmm, I’ve never heard of that happening. What optic was it, a narrow angle one? I tend to use wide angle ones for close up work. Those usually have a pebble texture finish. You might try raising or lowering the optic to see if that changes the focus.

It was a 60 degree pebbled lens. Similar to this one. . There isn’t a lot of clearance to raise/lower the optic. I wanted to leave the glass lens there since I made the mistake of shaving the diameter a bit too much and is not making a prefect seal in terms of waterproofing.


We have the same mods (I use the glass lens in my D10 also, but no centering ring), but I don’t have a donut hole pattern. You removed the white part, yes?

Maybe your particular optic is the issue. If your in the USA you might try buying this one. A little bit of filing is all it needs and the beam is perfect in my light.

If you’re outside the US and it costs too much to buy from Mountain Electronics, you might just try buying a different brand of optic from AliExpress and see if that fixes the problem.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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mitsuki08
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JasonWW wrote:

We have the same mods (I use the glass lens in my D10 also, but no centering ring), but I don’t have a donut hole pattern. You removed the white part, yes?

Maybe your particular optic is the issue. If your in the USA you might try buying this one. A little bit of filing is all it needs and the beam is perfect in my light.

If you’re outside the US and it costs too much to buy from Mountain Electronics, you might just try buying a different brand of optic from AliExpress and see if that fixes the problem.

Yeah I removed the white part, maybe it is the optic. I guess I’ll try to experiment on it since it’s good as broken anyways. Thanks for always answering my questions here JasonWW. Really appreciate it.

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mitsuki08 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

We have the same mods (I use the glass lens in my D10 also, but no centering ring), but I don’t have a donut hole pattern. You removed the white part, yes?

Maybe your particular optic is the issue. If your in the USA you might try buying this one. A little bit of filing is all it needs and the beam is perfect in my light.

If you’re outside the US and it costs too much to buy from Mountain Electronics, you might just try buying a different brand of optic from AliExpress and see if that fixes the problem.

Yeah I removed the white part, maybe it is the optic. I guess I’ll try to experiment on it since it’s good as broken anyways. Thanks for always answering my questions here JasonWW. Really appreciate it.


Are you both using the same emitter? If an optics behaves well with XM-L2 in particular, it’s often not great with other emitters (in my experience anyway).

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
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Has anyone here ever opened Fenix UC01? I would like to swap that led into something less blue, but no idea how to open it without damaging it. I got the blue body color, but if someone has pink one which is translucent maybe its easier to spot places where to pry it open?

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Scallywag wrote:
mitsuki08 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:

We have the same mods (I use the glass lens in my D10 also, but no centering ring), but I don’t have a donut hole pattern. You removed the white part, yes?

Maybe your particular optic is the issue. If your in the USA you might try buying this one. A little bit of filing is all it needs and the beam is perfect in my light.

If you’re outside the US and it costs too much to buy from Mountain Electronics, you might just try buying a different brand of optic from AliExpress and see if that fixes the problem.

Yeah I removed the white part, maybe it is the optic. I guess I’ll try to experiment on it since it’s good as broken anyways. Thanks for always answering my questions here JasonWW. Really appreciate it.


Are you both using the same emitter? If an optics behaves well with XM-L2 in particular, it’s often not great with other emitters (in my experience anyway).

I’ve tried it with the stock emitter which is probably an xml2 clone as well as an XPL, nichia 219 and 319. They all gave me a nice smooth pattern.

(EDIT: Oh and the Samsung LH351D as well)

I’ve also fitted these same lenses from MTN E into other lights with good results.

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JasonWW wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
Are you both using the same emitter? If an optics behaves well with XM-L2 in particular, it’s often not great with other emitters (in my experience anyway).

I’ve tried it with the stock emitter which is probably an xml2 clone as well as an XPL, nichia 219 and 319. They all gave me a nice smooth pattern.

I’ve also fitted these same lenses from MTN E into other lights with good results.


Cool, thanks for that info. I may grab some of those TIRs at some point.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
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mitsuki08
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Scallywag wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
Are you both using the same emitter? If an optics behaves well with XM-L2 in particular, it’s often not great with other emitters (in my experience anyway).

I’ve tried it with the stock emitter which is probably an xml2 clone as well as an XPL, nichia 219 and 319. They all gave me a nice smooth pattern.

I’ve also fitted these same lenses from MTN E into other lights with good results.


Cool, thanks for that info. I may grab some of those TIRs at some point.

I did not consider the emitter I was using. I’m using an SST20 in mine. Kinda already destroyed it last night sanding it all around making it a frosted optic so I can’t try on another emitter. An undesirable method but it works, no donut hole anymore.

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mitsuki08 wrote:

I did not consider the emitter I was using. I’m using an SST20 in mine. Kinda already destroyed it last night sanding it all around making it a frosted optic so I can’t try on another emitter. An undesirable method but it works, no donut hole anymore.

I wonder if it could be that led? It’s smaller than all of the ones that I’ve tried.

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mitsuki08
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JasonWW wrote:
mitsuki08 wrote:
I did not consider the emitter I was using. I’m using an SST20 in mine. Kinda already destroyed it last night sanding it all around making it a frosted optic so I can’t try on another emitter. An undesirable method but it works, no donut hole anymore.
I wonder if it could be that led? It’s smaller than all of the ones that I’ve tried.

It’s either the led or the optic. If ever I try again with a new optic I’ll share my experiences with it.

flightless22
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What can be used to allow mechanical lockout on lights with unnanodized threads?

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mitsuki08 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
mitsuki08 wrote:
I did not consider the emitter I was using. I’m using an SST20 in mine. Kinda already destroyed it last night sanding it all around making it a frosted optic so I can’t try on another emitter. An undesirable method but it works, no donut hole anymore.
I wonder if it could be that led? It’s smaller than all of the ones that I’ve tried.

It’s either the led or the optic. If ever I try again with a new optic I’ll share my experiences with it.


If my fasttech optics ever show up, I’ll let everyone know how it goes. Currently have the stock XM-L2 (either crap bin or clone, don’t know or honestly care much) in the stock reflector. While it feels like about 50CRI of 7000K, the beam profile is actually pretty good for me. And the output level is honestly just right – I left it on turbo for a while longer last night, and a few parts of the light did get slightly warm, but it’s nothing compared to most of my lights on higher modes. I should grab my SC62 for output comparison to get a good idea of where it’s at, since that’s a cool white XM-L2…

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
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Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
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flightless22 wrote:
What can be used to allow mechanical lockout on lights with unnanodized threads?

Nothing easy. You can take out the battery, but then you have to store it somehow. That’s not very convenient. Another option is to use a piece of insulating plastic between the battery and tailcap spring to cut power. If the insulator is thin and flexible you can store it in the battery tube for convenience.

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JasonWW wrote:
flightless22 wrote:
What can be used to allow mechanical lockout on lights with unnanodized threads?

Nothing easy. You can take out the battery, but then you have to store it somehow. That’s not very convenient. Another option is to use a piece of insulating plastic between the battery and tailcap spring to cut power. If the insulator is thin and flexible you can store it in the battery tube for convenience.

If the light is designed a certain way, it’s rather easy: unscrew about a quarter-turn.

The light must use a tail-switch board that insulates the negative end from the battery cap (my Emisar D4 does this). So, the negative path is: Battery (-) -> spring -> trace near edge of board -> end of battery tube when it screws down fully and contacts the trace. Uh, probably a good example of a non-anodized light that does this is the titanium D4 series.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
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Scallywag wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
flightless22 wrote:
What can be used to allow mechanical lockout on lights with unnanodized threads?

Nothing easy. You can take out the battery, but then you have to store it somehow. That’s not very convenient. Another option is to use a piece of insulating plastic between the battery and tailcap spring to cut power. If the insulator is thin and flexible you can store it in the battery tube for convenience.

If the light is designed a certain way, it’s rather easy: unscrew about a quarter-turn.

The light must use a tail-switch board that insulates the negative end from the battery cap (my Emisar D4 does this). So, the negative path is: Battery (-) -> spring -> trace near edge of board -> end of battery tube when it screws down fully and contacts the trace. Uh, probably a good example of a non-anodized light that does this is the titanium D4 series.


flightless22 was specifically asking about lights that don’t have anodized threads.

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JasonWW wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
flightless22 wrote:
What can be used to allow mechanical lockout on lights with unnanodized threads?

Nothing easy. You can take out the battery, but then you have to store it somehow. That’s not very convenient. Another option is to use a piece of insulating plastic between the battery and tailcap spring to cut power. If the insulator is thin and flexible you can store it in the battery tube for convenience.

If the light is designed a certain way, it’s rather easy: unscrew about a quarter-turn.

The light must use a tail-switch board that insulates the negative end from the battery cap (my Emisar D4 does this). So, the negative path is: Battery (-) -> spring -> trace near edge of board -> end of battery tube when it screws down fully and contacts the trace. Uh, probably a good example of a non-anodized light that does this is the titanium D4 series.


flightless22 was specifically asking about lights that don’t have anodized threads.

Right, which I was specifically addressing. If the light is designed properly, the current path doesn’t use the tailcap, and all you have to do is lift the battery tube off of the contact board that sits in the bottom of the tailcap. The D4Ti should be an example of this – but I do not own one, and therefore cannot test it. There’s some discussion here but I didn’t find anyone confirming it by testing.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
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Scallywag wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
flightless22 was specifically asking about lights that don’t have anodized threads.

Right, which I was specifically addressing. If the light is designed properly, the current path doesn’t use the tailcap, and all you have to do is lift the battery tube off of the contact board that sits in the bottom of the tailcap. The D4Ti should be an example of this – but I do not own one, and therefore cannot test it. There’s some discussion here but I didn’t find anyone confirming it by testing.

Umm, no. I think it’s safe to say (only he can confirm) he was asking something along the lines of:

“I have a light that doesn’t have anodised threads. Can it be made to physically lock out?”.

Eg, my ’502s don’t have ano threads, and can’t easily be made to lock out.

Short answer is no.

Longer answer is yes, if it doesn’t have a spring on the driver side, but only a small bump/nipple, and can take flattops.

In that case, a thick enough O-ring can be dropped in to physically try to push the cell away from the driver. Only tightening it up would squish it tight enough to make contact. So it basically becomes a twisty with tailswitch.

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Ok, so I have few stupid questions.

What do “slicing” and “dedoming” mean in relations to a LED and what effect do they have?

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Mraz wrote:
Ok, so I have few stupid questions.

What do “slicing” and “dedoming” mean in relations to a LED and what effect do they have?


Dedoming is removing the entire dome off the led. You typically might soak it in a strong chemical or heat it up in order to carefully lift up and remove the dome. For LEDs where that won’t work, you can very carefully slice the top of the dome off.

In layman’s terms, the dome increases the apparent size of the LED die and you get extra brightness, but it also makes the hotspot a little larger reding throw distance. With the dome removed you get the effect of the actual die size, the brightness is a bit less and the hotspot becomes a little smaller which will increase throw distance.

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JasonWW wrote:
Mraz wrote:
Ok, so I have few stupid questions.

What do “slicing” and “dedoming” mean in relations to a LED and what effect do they have?


Dedoming is removing the entire dome off the led. You typically might soak it in a strong chemical or heat it up in order to carefully lift up and remove the dome. For LEDs where that won’t work, you can very carefully slice the top of the dome off.

In layman’s terms, the dome increases the apparent size of the LED die and you get extra brightness, but it also makes the hotspot a little larger reding throw distance. With the dome removed you get the effect of the actual die size, the brightness is a bit less and the hotspot becomes a little smaller which will increase throw distance.

Just adding on here, dedoming or slicing LEDs often also has a significant effect on the color temperature and/or tint. The expectation is that the color temperature can be reduced by as much as 500K and the tint can be brought from “green/yellow” to “pink/purple” side of the BBL (i.e., duv is reduced). For example, XP-G2 was dedomed primarily for throw purposes. The LH351D is currently frequently sliced for tint reasons just as much as throw reasons (it is both a very floody emitter, and frequently is found to have undesirable green tint, especially at low levels).

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
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Does dedoming have any effect when emiter (say LH351D) is coupled with a TIR optic? Say I dedomed LH351D in my Skilhunt H04… what would happen?

Asking for a friend Big Smile

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Mraz wrote:
Does dedoming have any effect when emiter (say LH351D) is coupled with a TIR optic? Say I dedomed LH351D in my Skilhunt H04… what would happen?

Asking for a friend Big Smile


If you’re comparing the domed LED to the sliced/dedomed emitter in the same TIR, you would still get increased throw and decreased duv, as well as warmer tint. You would also get decreased lumen output.

TIRs are super useful for blending an emitter’s output (certain Cree emitters, like XP-G3, have an awful tint variation from hotspot to spill in a reflector, and a TIR evens that out quite a bit) or for getting certain specific beam shapes. On the whole, they’re not going to change an LED’s tint – this is best demonstrated by something that has consistent tint in a reflector already, and comparing it to a TIR. Luxeon V or XPL-Hi come to mind. What’s neat about a TIR, especially something like a 60 degree pebbled TIR, is you can throw in emitters that have much less desirable tint-rainbows in a reflector and have everything come out nice.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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Can same be achived by swaping TIR with different degree one? For instance, I’d like more throw from my headlamp, instead od dedoming my emitter could I put a 20* TIR instead of 60*. Do they work like that?

Thank you for taking time to explain it in noob terms.

JasonWW
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Mraz wrote:
Can same be achived by swaping TIR with different degree one? For instance, I’d like more throw from my headlamp, instead od dedoming my emitter could I put a 20* TIR instead of 60*. Do they work like that?

Thank you for taking time to explain it in noob terms.


Yes, a narrower angle will give more throw.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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CNCman
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Can a driver be checked for output voltage without a led hooked to it ?

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CNCman wrote:
Can a driver be checked for output voltage without a led hooked to it ?

It depends on the driver. For instance, a FET based driver has battery power going directly to the LED and then the negative side of the LED goes to the driver and it is what controls the current.

You should be able to hook up power to a boost driver and measure the voltage output although it may not be super accurate since there’s no load.

I don’t know a whole lot about Boost, Buck and regulated drivers so I can’t really say for sure.

So what specific driver are you referring to?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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It is working now, MT07 Buffalo that fried a led a few weeks ago. I will get you a full update if I get time tonight, busy now. Thanks for helping again. Wink

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

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