The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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pilotdog68
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Satan@103TFS wrote:
I have a question that may be dump

-DD driver such as BLF A6 or Sofirn C8A/T drivers that use with 3V emitter ,can I use 2S battery to drive 6V emitter ?


It’s not a straight swap, because the 6v will fry the processor on the driver.

Do a search for “zener-mod” and you will get a lot of results. You basically have to add a couple parts to the driver that reduces the voltage for the mcu.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Satan@103TFS
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Thanks pilotdog68

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vinte77 wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Probably a bit better, as the lens would only have to worry about focusing a subset of what it’d have to deal with a bigger chip.
So then would it always be better to use a TIR lens with a bigger fitment over a led, instead of finding a TIR lens that fits “just right” on a led?
Not if it goes swimming around in the lens, off-center.

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vinte77
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[/quote]Not if it goes swimming around in the lens, off-center.[/quote]

Got it, that makes sense. Well now I know what type of TIRs to fit with xp/xm centering rings. Thanks for your input LB.

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vinte77 wrote:
Got it, that makes sense. Well now I know what type of TIRs to fit with xp/xm centering rings. Thanks for your input LB.

Just to expound on that a bit, ideally, you want the LED that’s recommended by the mfr of the lens. Think it’s LEDsupply that actually has efficiency charts of how various LED chips fare through the lens in question, so they’re designed for a certain geometry, and how the LED emits light (spread, stray light emitted from the sides, etc.) will all have a bearing on the overall system of LED+lens.

Using a lens designed for an XP-E/-E2 (XP footprint, small E-size chip) really shouldn’t be used for an XP-L if you can help it, as light from the corners of the L is farther off-center than from the corners of an E.

On the other hand, a lens designed to work nicely with an XP-L should have no difficulty dealing with an XP-E.

That’s why a teeny LED chip in a big reflector’s sweet-spot can give a way tighter focus than, say, a larger filament from a hotwire bulb. And that’s why with a bulb, you’ll typically get that football- or pacman-shaped hotspot on the wall.

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vinte77
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Lightbringer wrote:
vinte77 wrote:
Got it, that makes sense. Well now I know what type of TIRs to fit with xp/xm centering rings. Thanks for your input LB.

Just to expound on that a bit, ideally, you want the LED that’s recommended by the mfr of the lens. Think it’s LEDsupply that actually has efficiency charts of how various LED chips fare through the lens in question, so they’re designed for a certain geometry, and how the LED emits light (spread, stray light emitted from the sides, etc.) will all have a bearing on the overall system of LED+lens.

Using a lens designed for an XP-E/-E2 (XP footprint, small E-size chip) really shouldn’t be used for an XP-L if you can help it, as light from the corners of the L is farther off-center than from the corners of an E.

On the other hand, a lens designed to work nicely with an XP-L should have no difficulty dealing with an XP-E.

That’s why a teeny LED chip in a big reflector’s sweet-spot can give a way tighter focus than, say, a larger filament from a hotwire bulb. And that’s why with a bulb, you’ll typically get that football- or pacman-shaped hotspot on the wall.

That was my question in the first place. Maybe I should’ve phrased it differently. So you should keep with the manufacturer’s suggested led for the TIR lens, which is obvious. In the event that you don’t, since I can’t always find TIR lens to fit certain lights due to the available sizes, then make sure the led is centered but don’t expect the “optimum” beam. But I’m guessing though as long as the beam is pleasing to the eye, it should be fine even though it’s not optimum/efficient.

I know it’s easier to use the reflector I got with the light but I like the way TIR optics look over reflectors. I think it’s because it’s harder to notice flaws/dirt on a TIR than a reflector. Also, TIR optics usually gives me better looking beams, e.g. gets rid of crosses in beams, less tint shift, etc.

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I’ve been pushing TIRs for a while, so…

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Rolph
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Hi.
I read and watch a lot of user’s reviews about many companie’s products, and take a position. However, I didn’t get an idea of some, particularly about the Armytek, because they have a lot of ardent admirers and convinced opponents. Any feedback about it’s products?

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For cells with built in charging (the 18650/700s you plug a micro USB into at the top)

Can they be charged in a regular charger?

Thanks.

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Nooner wrote:
For cells with built in charging (the 18650/700s you plug a micro USB into at the top)

Can they be charged in a regular charger?

Thanks.


not sure what you mean by regular charger, but I have used my iphone charger to charger micro usb 16340, and a kindle fire charger on 18650. I think they both are 5v output, so may take awhile on 18650, maybe need higher output charger so it doesnt take 8 hours. I know if I try to charge a powerbank that is basically 2 18650s in a case I need stronger ipad(12 watt)charger.
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my stupid/not stupid question is does everyone get logged out of this forum after about 2 weeks? This is the only forum I have to relog into evry 1-2 weeks, others have me signed on for infinity it seems

Nooner
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Blackbeard wrote:
Nooner wrote:
For cells with built in charging (the 18650/700s you plug a micro USB into at the top)

Can they be charged in a regular charger?

Thanks.


not sure what you mean by regular charger, but I have used my iphone charger to charger micro usb 16340, and a kindle fire charger on 18650. I think they both are 5v output, so may take awhile on 18650, maybe need higher output charger so it doesnt take 8 hours. I know if I try to charge a powerbank that is basically 2 18650s in a case I need stronger ipad(12 watt)charger.

I’m asking if the cell can be placed in a regular charger (like a Miboxer or Xtar etc.) instead of using the USB input.

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Nooner wrote:
Blackbeard wrote:
Nooner wrote:
For cells with built in charging (the 18650/700s you plug a micro USB into at the top)

Can they be charged in a regular charger?

Thanks.


not sure what you mean by regular charger, but I have used my iphone charger to charger micro usb 16340, and a kindle fire charger on 18650. I think they both are 5v output, so may take awhile on 18650, maybe need higher output charger so it doesnt take 8 hours. I know if I try to charge a powerbank that is basically 2 18650s in a case I need stronger ipad(12 watt)charger.

I’m asking if the cell can be placed in a regular charger (like a Miboxer or Xtar etc.) instead of using the USB input.


oh, gotcha, yes you can.
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@Blackbeard, I have never been logged out of my phone after 2 months.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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I think BLF might log you out if you’ve been away for more than a day or two. I seem to stay logged in as long as I’m reading BLF every day, but if I’m too busy to do that, I get logged out after a couple of days.

Nooner
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Blackbeard wrote:
Nooner wrote:
Blackbeard wrote:
Nooner wrote:
For cells with built in charging (the 18650/700s you plug a micro USB into at the top)

Can they be charged in a regular charger?

Thanks.


not sure what you mean by regular charger, but I have used my iphone charger to charger micro usb 16340, and a kindle fire charger on 18650. I think they both are 5v output, so may take awhile on 18650, maybe need higher output charger so it doesnt take 8 hours. I know if I try to charge a powerbank that is basically 2 18650s in a case I need stronger ipad(12 watt)charger.

I’m asking if the cell can be placed in a regular charger (like a Miboxer or Xtar etc.) instead of using the USB input.


oh, gotcha, yes you can.

Thanks. Looked at a lot of listings online and none of them explicitly said either way.

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AlexGT wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
Does anyone really think we are alone here on earth, there are a estimated (possible) 100 billion solar systems out there. Is it naive of us to think that earth is the only one that got it right for life.
Per current estimation of galaxies in the universe is 2 trillion (yes, trillion with a "T") odds are that we are not alone.

 

Considering Tungsten is a far more common heavy element distributed throughout our Galaxy, the majority of other flashlight using civilizations are probably more than content with incandescent “Hotwire” designs for their portable illumination needs...

 

 

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Really stupid this one… Are the Reylight AA/14500s flashlights moddable into triples Question

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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MascaratumB wrote:
Really stupid this one... Are the Reylight AA/14500s flashlights moddable into triples :???:

 

Not stupid at all, rather elementary.... 

Simply bundle and tape 3 together....

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MascaratumB wrote:
Really stupid this one… Are the Reylight AA/14500s flashlights moddable into triples Question

Everything is moddable if you try hard enough.

But i got 2 reylights, and modding them into triples requires a very small triple board and fitting optics

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1109136#comment-1109136

  BLF

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Yokiamy wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Really stupid this one… Are the Reylight AA/14500s flashlights moddable into triples Question

Everything is moddable if you try hard enough.

But i got 2 reylights, and modding them into triples requires a very small triple board and fitting optics

Thanks Yokiamy! That was what I thought as there seems to be few space to fit the “normal” triples inside!
Thanks for you reply Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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Is flashing firmware to different ATtiny the same process? Or are there differences? What are ATtiny25/45/85-based drivers I can buy available in the market? Just want to try flashing for the first time.

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Does anyone know if the Eagle Eye X2R can be used with a lighted tailcap? Or, the other way around, does a lighted tailcap work properly on the EE X2R?

Thanks in advance! Thumbs Up

EDIT: I found this here:

Quote:
Eagle Eye X2R: driver does not work properly with lighted switch, only grey

Can anyone confirm or elaborate on the grey working or not, please? Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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MascaratumB wrote:
Does anyone know if the Eagle Eye X2R can be used with a lighted tailcap? Or, the other way around, does a lighted tailcap work properly on the EE X2R?

Thanks in advance! Thumbs Up

EDIT: I found this here:

Quote:
Eagle Eye X2R: driver does not work properly with lighted switch, only grey

Can anyone confirm or elaborate on the grey working or not, please? Beer


I added the lighted tail cap, but no bleeder, and the light works, but it has next mode memory.

Since I use this light in my car and infrequently, it’s not that big a deal.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

JasonWW
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caplang wrote:
Is flashing firmware to different ATtiny the same process? Or are there differences? What are ATtiny25/45/85-based drivers I can buy available in the market? Just want to try flashing for the first time.

The process is pretty much the same, but the code has to be specific. There are threads here on the forum about it.

You can buy drivers from MTN Elec or Lexel.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

MascaratumB
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JasonWW wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Does anyone know if the Eagle Eye X2R can be used with a lighted tailcap? Or, the other way around, does a lighted tailcap work properly on the EE X2R?

Thanks in advance! Thumbs Up

EDIT: I found this here:

Quote:
Eagle Eye X2R: driver does not work properly with lighted switch, only grey

Can anyone confirm or elaborate on the grey working or not, please? Beer


I added the lighted tail cap, but no bleeder, and the light works, but it has next mode memory.

Since I use this light in my car and infrequently, it’s not that big a deal.

Thanks again for the reply JasonWW! I will take a look at it then Wink Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

caplang
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JasonWW wrote:
caplang wrote:
Is flashing firmware to different ATtiny the same process? Or are there differences? What are ATtiny25/45/85-based drivers I can buy available in the market? Just want to try flashing for the first time.

The process is pretty much the same, but the code has to be specific. There are threads here on the forum about it.

You can buy drivers from MTN Elec or Lexel.

Thanks! Bought some hardwares and now waiting for drivers.
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MascaratumB wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
Does anyone know if the Eagle Eye X2R can be used with a lighted tailcap? Or, the other way around, does a lighted tailcap work properly on the EE X2R?

Thanks in advance! Thumbs Up

EDIT: I found this here:

Quote:
Eagle Eye X2R: driver does not work properly with lighted switch, only grey

Can anyone confirm or elaborate on the grey working or not, please? Beer


I added the lighted tail cap, but no bleeder, and the light works, but it has next mode memory.

Since I use this light in my car and infrequently, it’s not that big a deal.

Thanks again for the reply JasonWW! I will take a look at it then Wink Beer


I tried without and with a number of bleeder resistor values but did not get the lighted tail working on the X2R without it messing with the timings (and I think I remember there was something wrong with the charging also). The next mode memory that Jason got is in fact the light seeing any amount of time, including infinity, as a short “off” , which is interpreted as a half-press and thus going to the next mode.
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This is kind of an old thread so I don’t remember it real well, but I’m sure there was somebody that said they added a bleeder resistor and the light worked normally. Maybe they were wrong or I’m just remembering it wrong?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

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JasonWW wrote:
This is kind of an old thread so I don’t remember it real well, but I’m sure there was somebody that said they added a bleeder resistor and the light worked normally. Maybe they were wrong or I’m just remembering it wrong?

You remembered it right Facepalm , look what I just found in my stash?

..with perfectly functioning UI with last mode memory. And now I remember what the problem was: another X2R I modded with a FET-driver, on top of the stock charging board. All ki d of things went wrong there, including the lighted tail. Later I did a lighted tail on a stock X2R and that went fine. In the light in the pic I found that I used a 670 Ohm bleeder, I found a place for it on the spring-side of the driver.

Sorry MB about the wrong information.

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