When you say “LX driver” are you taking Texas_Ace’s design, tweaking it and calling it by your new name?
I’m a little confused on this.
LX has nothing to do with TA, its complete new drawn design with all my previous tweaks
its based on Narsil Triple channel/Bistro HD OTSM of course the end product is similar in some ways
.
lets have a look on TA 22mm for example
just to mention if you would solder the MOSFET this way around like seen here it would short 180° flipped
When you say “LX driver” are you taking Texas_Ace’s design, tweaking it and calling it by your new name?
I’m a little confused on this.
LX has nothing to do with TA, its complete new drawn design with all my previous tweaks
its based on Narsil Triple channel/Bistro HD OTSM of course the end product is similar in some ways
.
lets have a look on TA 22mm for example
just to mention if you would solder the MOSFET this way around like seen here it would short 180° flipped
So it’s a lot different. Okay.
Are you still going to be making the TA based drivers or switching over to the newer LX drivers?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
I had a request on 12mm driver
had it a long time on the to do list, but hoops driver picture was the trigger to shring my bigger drivers,
but keeping
- full e-switch firmware functionality (switch and indicator LED)
- and OTSM support (C1 and big 0805 C2 plus voltage dividers)
- AMC vertically orientated
I put all goodies for OTSM and e-switch light onto it
no boards produced yet, will order from Oshpark asap
It reminds me of the layout on the Darkside Nymph driver with the 7135 chip soldered in the upright position to save space. But it isn’t exactly the same. Components are different. Yours also has (re)programming pads. Wow! Nice touch!
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I did not rationalize any parts away it has full OTSM support and 2 caps
If the 1mm copper area removed its 10mm but then grounding is an issue
Can’t some of the green material near the edge be scratched off and then have a bit of solder between the driver and the body?
Like maybe near that circle at the top of the ‘G’ where there’s some free space
Lexel, sorry to ask, as this may have been answered before!
Do you have 17-19mm drivers with Narsil (side switch) that can be used with 1 or 2 Li-Ion cells, for a single or triple emitter light?
I need something like that to mod the BlitzWolf BW-ET1 (AA/14500 light, side switch) either with a single emitter or triple!
Never modded an e-switch light before nor one to take 2 Li-Ion batteries, hence my doubts. Also…I tried to keep up with the drivers’ list but I’m too dumb to get it right
all my drivers can be run 2S
with 7135s I got 17 and 17-19mm with bigger copper rim
17mm I got newer drivers without AMCs that use a small FET instead for more realibility
Thanks for the answer Lexel!
The 17mm with FET is single sided?
I ask because the ideal diameter for the driver would be 18mm, but if it has 2 sides populated the battery tube won’t be able to make contact with the head and the driver, what will imply modding more things!
If the FET driver is single sided I can manage to make it work in some way !!
I never saw any problems with double sided drivers,
the parts simply are smaller than the spring and dont cover the tube rim
they are designed to fit battery tube lights
17-19mm
Yup, normally they don’t have issues, I’ve used them on other lights and they fit
But the “anatomy” of this light makes them harder to fit while screwing the tube. This is the original driver and the battery tube (more driver details here) :
As you see, the “bottom” of the driver is “clean”, so the tube makes contact with it and screws in completely.
Using a double sided driver (17mm, from you) you can see the gap it generates.
I explained myself wrongly, as the driver fits the hole, but the 7135 chips hinder the screwing in! Hence my question about being single or double sided!
there is a simple solution, called belt or wheel sander
simply shorten the tube a bit
the gap does not affect water tightness or so its a minorcosmetic thing, the light could have need that way originally
I am no expert rewriting the 2 Channel firmware to match 3 channel pinout its simply not the same channels on same pins
on older 30mm I had made pads to solder to reroute the pinout as I failed trying to program it
also that driver has a 2. board vertically attached to it likely for switch, not easy to handle
there is a simple solution, called belt or wheel sander
simply shorten the tube a bit
the gap does not affect water tightness or so its a minorcosmetic thing, the light could have need that way originally
I am no expert rewriting the 2 Channel firmware to match 3 channel pinout its simply not the same channels on same pins
on older 30mm I had made pads to solder to reroute the pinout as I failed trying to program it
also that driver has a 2. board vertically attached to it likely for switch, not easy to handle
Yeah, I thought about that, filing or sanding the top interior of the tube. There is a small millimetric difference between the tube diameter and the driver diameter (the longest distance between the 7135 chips), so I may try that!
My only “fear” is that removing the anodizing will provoke any short-circuit if the tube touches any part of the chips or pads. I will do it tonight and check if sanding works to fit the driver. If so, I will PM you to order the driver.
This BlitzWolf light is built like a tank, hence the tubes are thick as hell
So, I tried and filed the tube, and it happens that the chips came to fit, but on the interior (towards the head), the components got damaged due to pressure. The interior is not completely hollow, so it is almost impossible to not damage it… there is not a part on the driver that is entirely flat and without components, so it will get damaged anyway
Thanks for the answers but I guess I will not be able to mod this light the way I was thinking
so you mean the thick tube pushes the AMCs inwards or beareks the housings?
if you got a driver and the tube the tube should be always resing only on the AMC fins to make contact
The main problem here is thats the bore diameter for the cell is narrower than the AMCs housing outer diameter,
also some people have filed carefully the AMCs housing on the edges to make the diameter smaller
You dont need much force on the tube, likely you pushed it far harder than nessesary or good
I have seen people simply cut a solid strand copper wire and made a circle around the AMC fins that is higher a little than the housing, so no pressure on it applied
on request of a 3 people I finally made this one
the BLF development cost will add 10€ per board for first 12 drivers, not sure if I will ever sell that many
also played a bit with fancy copper in Silk markings for 3D effect
the copper inside silk should look good on white boards I prefer
.
Design highlights
.
- thermal viases same as the SD75 (a lot of work pathing those from a bigh block into the shapes needed)
- programming port
- optimised ground routing for all signal components to reduce noise (first made in MF04S/MT09R drivers of later revisions after LDO tended to freak out sometimes on HT07S driver of early revision)
- LVP voltage divider with added noise filtering (first made in MF04S/MT09R drivers of later revisions)
introduced new design stuff
- customized rounded pads on resistors and most other parts (manually adding 28 points per pad with calculated values from Excel table —> very time intensive for many footprints I have)
- customized FET footprint
- text following the round driver shape (its all manually done no feature in the program)
- slot in board for switch board
- copper in silkscreen text for 3 D effect
- perfectly on a circle aligned rim viases, made as symetrical pattern instead manually placing each via (could be multiple rings like the BLF lantern has
- FET diode and inductor rotated and moved for more efficient pattern and smalöler switching node copper area
- panel with holes for 10mm grit 2.5mm pin solder paste plate (had this previous for Fireflies panels, plate link from BLF Hoop)
LX has nothing to do with TA, its complete new drawn design with all my previous tweaks
its based on Narsil Triple channel/Bistro HD OTSM of course the end product is similar in some ways
.
lets have a look on TA 22mm for example
just to mention if you would solder the MOSFET this way around like seen here it would short 180° flipped
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
You can get it from mount electronic for $25
Nico -.-
No you can’t. He’s not selling them yet.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
So it’s a lot different. Okay.
Are you still going to be making the TA based drivers or switching over to the newer LX drivers?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
I had a request on 12mm driver
had it a long time on the to do list, but hoops driver picture was the trigger to shring my bigger drivers,
but keeping
- full e-switch firmware functionality (switch and indicator LED)
- and OTSM support (C1 and big 0805 C2 plus voltage dividers)
- AMC vertically orientated
I put all goodies for OTSM and e-switch light onto it
no boards produced yet, will order from Oshpark asap
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
That must be packed in reality Lexel. 12mm is pretty small. Nice work.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
It reminds me of the layout on the Darkside Nymph driver with the 7135 chip soldered in the upright position to save space. But it isn’t exactly the same. Components are different. Yours also has (re)programming pads. Wow! Nice touch!
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I did not rationalize any parts away it has full OTSM support and 2 caps
If the 1mm copper area removed its 10mm but then grounding is an issue
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Can’t some of the green material near the edge be scratched off and then have a bit of solder between the driver and the body?
Like maybe near that circle at the top of the ‘G’ where there’s some free space
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
sure this would be possible to get grounding
first prototype just soldered
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
new 20mm 8A buck driver (old one 6A)
new 33.5mm SD75 drivers DD+small current FET and 8A 2-4S Buck
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Nice stuff
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Mods & Builds - - Stuff for Sale -
- The 7th Old Lumens BLF Self Built Flashlight Contest is Now Open -
OK… There’s a moose on that buck driver…
Geez, that’s a lot of vias. Are they needed or is that just cosmetic?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
I reckon your horsing around Hoop.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
A proud buck, just grazing in the arctic tundra.
I raise you a Trojan horse.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Pretty fly for a buck driver.
not really needed as we talk about 1-2W heat depending on current and voltageges
but guess adding thermal viases dont hurt, unless you try to solder on them with too small iron
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Lexel, sorry to ask, as this may have been answered before!
Do you have 17-19mm drivers with Narsil (side switch) that can be used with 1 or 2 Li-Ion cells, for a single or triple emitter light?
I need something like that to mod the BlitzWolf BW-ET1 (AA/14500 light, side switch) either with a single emitter or triple!
Never modded an e-switch light before nor one to take 2 Li-Ion batteries, hence my doubts. Also…I tried to keep up with the drivers’ list but I’m too dumb to get it right
I thank in advance for an answer on this
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
all my drivers can be run 2S
with 7135s I got 17 and 17-19mm with bigger copper rim
17mm I got newer drivers without AMCs that use a small FET instead for more realibility
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Thanks for the answer Lexel!
The 17mm with FET is single sided?
I ask because the ideal diameter for the driver would be 18mm, but if it has 2 sides populated the battery tube won’t be able to make contact with the head and the driver, what will imply modding more things!
If the FET driver is single sided I can manage to make it work in some way !!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
I never saw any problems with double sided drivers,
the parts simply are smaller than the spring and dont cover the tube rim
they are designed to fit battery tube lights
17-19mm
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Yup, normally they don’t have issues, I’ve used them on other lights and they fit
But the “anatomy” of this light makes them harder to fit while screwing the tube. This is the original driver and the battery tube (more driver details here) :
As you see, the “bottom” of the driver is “clean”, so the tube makes contact with it and screws in completely.
Using a double sided driver (17mm, from you) you can see the gap it generates.
I explained myself wrongly, as the driver fits the hole, but the 7135 chips hinder the screwing in! Hence my question about being single or double sided!
I guess if it is double sided, it won’t fit
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
there is a simple solution, called belt or wheel sander
simply shorten the tube a bit
the gap does not affect water tightness or so its a minorcosmetic thing, the light could have need that way originally
I am no expert rewriting the 2 Channel firmware to match 3 channel pinout its simply not the same channels on same pins
on older 30mm I had made pads to solder to reroute the pinout as I failed trying to program it
also that driver has a 2. board vertically attached to it likely for switch, not easy to handle
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Yeah, I thought about that, filing or sanding the top interior of the tube. There is a small millimetric difference between the tube diameter and the driver diameter (the longest distance between the 7135 chips), so I may try that!
My only “fear” is that removing the anodizing will provoke any short-circuit if the tube touches any part of the chips or pads. I will do it tonight and check if sanding works to fit the driver. If so, I will PM you to order the driver.
This BlitzWolf light is built like a tank, hence the tubes are thick as hell
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
So, I tried and filed the tube, and it happens that the chips came to fit, but on the interior (towards the head), the components got damaged due to pressure. The interior is not completely hollow, so it is almost impossible to not damage it… there is not a part on the driver that is entirely flat and without components, so it will get damaged anyway
Thanks for the answers but I guess I will not be able to mod this light the way I was thinking
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
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GIVEAWAY: 1
so you mean the thick tube pushes the AMCs inwards or beareks the housings?
if you got a driver and the tube the tube should be always resing only on the AMC fins to make contact
The main problem here is thats the bore diameter for the cell is narrower than the AMCs housing outer diameter,
also some people have filed carefully the AMCs housing on the edges to make the diameter smaller
You dont need much force on the tube, likely you pushed it far harder than nessesary or good
I have seen people simply cut a solid strand copper wire and made a circle around the AMC fins that is higher a little than the housing, so no pressure on it applied
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
on request of a 3 people I finally made this one
the BLF development cost will add 10€ per board for first 12 drivers, not sure if I will ever sell that many
also played a bit with fancy copper in Silk markings for 3D effect
the copper inside silk should look good on white boards I prefer
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Design highlights
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- thermal viases same as the SD75 (a lot of work pathing those from a bigh block into the shapes needed)
- programming port
- optimised ground routing for all signal components to reduce noise (first made in MF04S/MT09R drivers of later revisions after LDO tended to freak out sometimes on HT07S driver of early revision)
- LVP voltage divider with added noise filtering (first made in MF04S/MT09R drivers of later revisions)
introduced new design stuff
- customized rounded pads on resistors and most other parts (manually adding 28 points per pad with calculated values from Excel table —> very time intensive for many footprints I have)
- customized FET footprint
- text following the round driver shape (its all manually done no feature in the program)
- slot in board for switch board
- copper in silkscreen text for 3 D effect
- perfectly on a circle aligned rim viases, made as symetrical pattern instead manually placing each via (could be multiple rings like the BLF lantern has
- FET diode and inductor rotated and moved for more efficient pattern and smalöler switching node copper area
- panel with holes for 10mm grit 2.5mm pin solder paste plate (had this previous for Fireflies panels, plate link from BLF Hoop)
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Okay, Lexel, i’m gonna save some money so i can place an order of probably 3 drivers.
Nice stuff. European prices unfortunately..
2Q19
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