Hi everyone, I’ve always like flashlights but recently am getting into rechargeable lights running on 18650’s. So I’m sure this is a total newbie question but any help here would be much better than it seems I’m getting on google. I’m looking at buy a Nitcore MH27UV and I happen to have an extra 18650 left over from an Olight S2R. Now I’m curious if this 3.6v 3600mah 12.9Wh battery would work well inside of the new MH27UV? I thought all 18650’s were the same besides the mah rating but then I came across something on a site saying how a light needs a battery with at least an 8A rating (what the heck does that mean?!). Again…I’m sure I sound like a total newbie and I’m sure it’s something obvious that I’m missing but any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
No, not all 18650s are the same apart from obvious differences in capacities.
Some are better at handling higher current demands, like the Samsung 30Q, Sony VTC-5A and the LG HE2, others offer a more modest current handling ability, but offset this with a higher capacity. Something like the middle of the road Sanyo-Panasonic NCR18650GA and its 10A ability, would be appropriate for that light.
Still, some can be had with protection circuits, which makes them longer and possibly more problematic with certain lights.
I looked at your light on NiteCore’s site and it looks from the picture that they’re probably just using a Panasonic NCR-B 3400mAh 18650 from 4-5 years back. It can handle up to 5-6A, so you should be good with it.
Now, something like my Emisar D4 and its ~15A-20A draw, you’d want something better.
Chris
Thank you for the help and such a quick response, I really appreciate it. I figured it was referring to the discharge rate of the battery but I didn’t want to assume. So would I be correct at saying that you want to have a battery discharge rate match or exceed the discharge rate of the flashlight itself? For example to get the full potential of a light that has a discharge rate of 6 you want a battery that has a discharge rate of 6?
Hey and welcome to BLF! :partying_face:
That spare battery of yours should work with the MH27UV. “3600mAh” is the capacity of the cell, and related to this is the amount of energy of the cell which is 12.9Wh. This is an easy calculation. Energy = capacity x Voltage = 3.6 Ah x 3.6V = 12.96 VAh = 12.96 Wh.
You can compare this to how big the fuel tank of a car is. A small Toyota and a Ferrari can have the same size fuel tank, but you can imagine that the Ferrari has more power for faster acceleration and higher top speeds.
This is where the amp rating of the cell comes to play. “8A” means the cell can handle a discharge rate of 8A without problems. This is directly related to how much power a cell can handle.
The 3600 mAh cell you’ve got can handle what the MH27UV requires in terms of amp rating, so you should be fine.
Correct! And I agree with Chris.
Awesome, I’m glad to hear that the battery will work with it or my Nitecore P12 since the MH27UV seems to be more demanding on a battery. So if it’ll work in the MH27UV it’ll work in the P12. Instead of buying batteries straight from the main companies (which I’m assuming mark up the prices), what would be a good website to get much better prices on these batteries?
Always match the cell to the intended ‘load/current’ of the device in question.
Most of the more common protection circuits (PCBs) have around an 8A tripping point. With the newer hybrid 10A cells, like the Sanyo-Panasonic GA, they’re sometimes being fitted with 10A PCBs.
With protected cells, even 10A/10A versions, I probably couldn’t use them in my D4 on turbo for even a few seconds, if at all, because A) the load demand is greater than the cell can safely deliver and B) the protection circuit will trip at around 10A (or 8A).
Unless you’re dealing with hot rods, or multi-emitter monster lights, the former ‘King Of The Hill’ Panasonic NCR-B 3400mAh cell should be sufficient for many/most setups.
Chris
Where are you living?
Also…how do you determine the discharge rate of a battery? Most of the batteries I’m looking at on Nitecore’s website only refer to their mah and voltage. But on most of them I don’t see a discharge rating. Unless I’m completely missing it, which is also a good possibility?
I live in NY
There may be some more though. These are the reputable guys people in the US as far as I know. Highly recommended not to buy lithium ion from unknown vendors on Ebay or Aliexpress.
That’s why none of the cool kids buy ‘flashlight maker’ labeled cells.
Too expensive, too little information and you often times don’t know who makes the base cell.
If you’re using single cell lights, have an IQ above that of a ‘dirt clod’, own a digital multi meter, then you should be fine with the Big 5: Sanyo, Panasonic, Samsung, LG and Sony.
If you have to have protection circuits in order to sleep soundly at night, or you run multi-cell lights with the cells in series, then people like EVVA, Keeppower, Mountain Electronics, Orbtronic, Efest, AW and some others will have added PCBs as a 3rd party.
Chris
Thank you for the links.
Thanks for all the help. This forum is great. Highly informative and you guys are great at responding.
I second hIKARInoob… Also Adding https://www.imrbatteries.com/
I buy from them all the time… Very good company with great reputation.